Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

After this fatiguing excursion, as I had seen most of the mines, I left Pottsville on the 5th of June, and rode forty miles to Mauch Chunk at the junction of a creek of this name with the Lehigh. After passing Orwigsburg we turned to the left towards M‘Keansburg, through a woody valley not well settled, and this only near Pine creek. M‘Keansburg is a small place, and lies on an eminence, which affords a prospect of a romantic valley, through which Little Schuylkill flows. M‘Keansburg adjoins on one side a wood swarming with locusts, which made so much noise that they might be heard at a great distance. These locusts are seldom seen, and their present appearance is ascribed to the uncommonly dry spring. I walked among the trees, and found under the stones several crystallizations; I found among others, a stone perfectly resembling a petrified bird’s head with the beak. Many vegetable petrifactions, such as fern and leaves of the kalmia, are found in the slate between the veins of coal. I was told that the impression of a whole collection of snakes was found in a cavity in the slate, and that the impressions of the heads, particularly, were very distinct.

After leaving M‘Keansburg we passed valleys and mountains, and reached, in this manner, the narrow and romantic valley of the Lehigh, by a very steep road. Lehighton, which lies at a junction of Mahoning creek and the Lehigh, consists of but few houses, and is supported in a miserable manner; because the land is too hilly and rough for cultivation, and the industrious village of Mauch Chunk, which is but three miles distant, withdraws from it all support. The country, however rough and unproductive as it may be for those who wish to live here, would afford a particular enjoyment to a botanist, and a lover of his science, by its rich and blooming vegetable productions.

It began to grow dark when we reached Lehighton, I nevertheless continued on the road; this grew narrow, was partly cut out of the rock, and closely approached the right shore of the Lehigh as far as Mauch Chunk, which we reached after dark, and in a storm. I took lodging in the only inn, which, however, is very good and respectable, and kept by a quaker, Mr. Atherton. The place has only existed four years, and owes its origin to the neighbouring mines, which, with all the surrounding country, belongs to the Lehigh Coal Company; a company which possesses a large capital, has existed longer than its rival in Pottsville, and conducts its operations more systematically. One of the most important stockholders is a quaker, Mr. White, who lives here, and has properly created every thing, and directs every thing himself. He visited me the same evening, and appeared to be a plain Friend, who however has reflected much on the good of mankind, and speaks very well.

On the next morning Mr. White took me about the place; it lies in a very narrow vale surrounded with high mountains, which rise out of the Lehigh and are covered with trees. The company has made the Lehigh navigable, or rather is at present engaged in this work, by means of dams, locks and canals, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia with ease and cheapness.

The canal, in which two locks stand at a distance of one hundred and thirty feet from each other, is thirty feet wide between the locks, the sides of which are covered with planks; behind this covering a wall has been erected, the crevices of which are filled with a liquid mortar. Mr. White calculates, that the covering of wood will last about thirty years, and that during this time, the wall will unite with the mortar and form a kind of rock. Neither the locks, nor the canal were finished, so that there was as yet but a temporary navigation. The coal is put into flat boats six feet wide and ten feet long; these are attached, two together and five behind each other, so that a kind of raft of ten boats, or rather a box is formed. When this raft arrives at Philadelphia, and the coal unloaded, these boats are taken to pieces, the boards sold, and all the iron which was in them, brought back to Mauch Chunk in carts. Two saw-mills are in constant operation for the building of these boats, the timber is previously cut in form, so that practised workmen may nail together such a boat in an hour. But as soon as the canal and the locks are finished, even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease, and coal be transported in steam-boats, which will pass up and down the river and canal. The banks of the canal are covered with stones, or rather formally paved, so that they may not suffer from the action of the wheels. The coal is taken from the mine in wagons to the place where it is put into boats, and there weighed. After this the carts move upon a disk which turns, where the horses are quickly unharnessed. The carts are then raised by means of a machine, worked by a horse, and when they have attained a certain height, are brought in an oblique position, so that the coals fall out into a kind of enclosure, where they remain till wanted; the boats are loaded by means of moveable broad iron gutters, which are elevated or depressed according to the height of the water. Grates are put in this gutter, so that the coals which are too small, and the dust, fall through, and merely the larger pieces fall into the vessel.

Considerable quantities of iron ore are found near Mauch Chunk, in a sandy state, and near the surface of the earth, which is melted in furnaces, erected for this purpose. But they have not yet succeeded in doing this by means of stone coal, and are obliged to use charcoal. This iron is used to make rail-roads, which lead to the most important coal-mine, nine miles distant. They will facilitate the transportation of the coal to the water in a very great degree, and make this at least three-fourths cheaper. Iron carts are to be used on this rail-road. Its ascent to the mine amounts to one foot in a hundred; the empty carts are to be drawn up by horses, each of which draws four at the rate of three miles an hour; when they are loaded, they are carried to the river by their own weight, and make the passage in less than an hour. When they reach a certain point not far from the river, they are sent down an inclined plane, at an angle of forty-five degrees, and by means of machinery yet to be attached, they draw the empty carts by their weight up this plane.

A very good turnpike, now leads to this important mine, nine miles from Mauch Chunk, along the romantic valley of the same name, which ascends but two feet in a hundred, so that we could trot the whole way. I went in company with Mr. White. The mountain is imperceptibly ascended, and it occasions surprise, when, after a ride of eight miles, the woods, which cover the mountains are left, to see Mauch Chunk creek, whose shore has apparently just been left, rushing deep below, and at the top of the mountain to find oneself in a coal-mine. It is a highly interesting sight, and alone worth a passage across the ocean. The coal does not here run in veins, but the whole mountain consists of a solid mass of coal, covered with a layer of clay at most a foot thick. The earth assumes a dark colour six inches below the surface; coal dust a foot and a half thick, is found at the depth of one foot, then comes the coal in small pieces, which are not used, but at a foot deeper the solid coal begins, which is broken off and sold. They have hitherto bored to the depth of sixty feet, and found nothing but the purest coal; they have however, dug but forty feet deep, and prefer working horizontally rather than perpendicularly. Except some veins of slate, which as solid rocks are not more than two feet thick, no heterogeneous substances are found among the coal. This is entirely black, and only those parts which are more or less exposed to the weather, are iridescent.

These mines, which are not subterraneous, occupy at present a space of nearly four acres. An iron wedge forced by a hammer is used to break the coal. The stratum of coal is partly horizontal and partly at an angle of forty-five degrees; it seems as if it had been once elevated and broken by a subterraneous power. The workmen are paid daily, gain about eighteen dollars a month, and occupy several houses not far from the mine. They have dug a well in the stratum of coal, which furnishes pure and good drinking water.

We rode back to Mauch Chunk on the excellent road, made altogether on account of the mine. There is a place on the road where iron sand is dug, and whence runs a chalybeate spring, which leaves settlings of ochre. Two miles from Mauch Chunk we ascended the hill, on the other side of which, again quantities of coal are found. It is, however, very difficult to reach the layer on this high and steep hill, and the transportation of coals thence to Mauch Chunk would be attended with great inconvenience and expense. To obviate this, the company is cutting through the hill at a certain height, a tunnel in the rock, by which means the stratum may, to use the expression, be reached by the rear, and the conveyance of the coals be much facilitated. This tunnel is to be ten feet high and fifteen wide, with a rail-road in the middle. They have cut through two hundred feet already, and have yet one hundred and twenty feet to work, before they reach the coal. This labour is fatiguing and tedious; twelve men work day and night. They blast the rocks with powder, and advance but one foot in twenty-four hours.

In the valley of Mauch Chunk creek, along the road, two furnaces are erected in order to cast the pieces necessary for the rail-road, to avoid their transportation and to accelerate the work on the road. Two saw-mills have also been built in this valley, but the water in the creek is generally too low to depend much on their assistance in such works. The company employs about one thousand eight hundred workmen, who live partly near the mine, but generally in small houses in the place belonging to the company. Their habitations form a street along Mauch Chunk creek, nearly half a mile long. A great number of them are married and have their families with them. The company has given them a clergyman, and a school with a good teacher, to instruct their children. A massive mill is also erected near the creek, in which all the flour necessary for the place is ground; the country is too rough for culture; the company exchanges in a very profitable manner coal for grain. Meadows have, however, been laid out in the valley, in order to gain the necessary hay for one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here. The creek also works bellows, by means of which the necessary draft of air is preserved in the furnaces and in the forges.

A store belonging to the society, and furnished with all the necessary articles, is also kept here. In this the workmen and their families receive the necessary articles, the price of which is deducted from their wages. Every workman has his leaf in a large book, wherein his account stands, and besides a small pass-book, wherein a copy of his account is written. Every month, or if the workman prefers oftener, a settlement is made, and he receives a note on the treasurer for the money owing to him, unless he wishes it to remain in the treasurer’s hands. The company makes a great profit in this manner, and the greater part of the money expended flows back again into its treasury. The ground three miles up and down the Lehigh, belongs to the company, so that no one can dispute with them the monopoly of keeping a store. If other companies should be formed to dig coals in the mountains above Mauch Chunk, where great quantities are said to be found, they could not gain much, as this society has taken possession of the only outlet, the Lehigh, and on account of the locks could lay many difficulties in the way with regard to the transportation of other coal.

I visited Mr. White in his tasteful house on the declivity of a mountain, whence he may see the whole of Mauch Chunk. He has a park behind his house, with tame game, which eat out of his hands. They consist of two stags and a female elk and her young one, which is already nearly as large and strong as a horse. They were obliged to shoot the male elk last autumn, as he attacked Mr. White and gave him eight wounds in the legs, with his horns, which confined the poor man about a month to his bed. The assistant of Mr. White ran to aid him, but received some wounds himself in the body, and would have been killed by the furious animal, if, at the cry of the two unfortunate men, a number of people had not hastened with poles and clubs to relieve them.

At five o’clock in the evening, I left the interesting Mauch Chunk and went sixteen miles on the road to Bethlehem, as far as Cherryville. At Lehighton I took the left shore of the Lehigh passing two small creeks, Big creek, and Aquanshicola creek, and at last, (for the fifth time,) the Blue Mountains, through Lehigh Water Gap. This country must be very handsome, and it was with regret that I saw so little of it, but it began to grow dark, was very rainy weather, and thick clouds covered the Blue Mountains. Two miles from Water Gap we passed through a small place called Berlinville, and were yet two miles distant from Cherryville. In the darkness we could not see the posts which stand wherever roads cross, and there was no turnpike. We accordingly lost our way, and at a cross road knew not which direction to take. We ran about in the rain and the darkness, but found nothing which could have directed us. At last we took a road at random, fortunately the right one! But it was midnight before we reached Cherryville, where we found lodgings in a very good tavern. This whole country is inhabited by Germans, and the German language is the only one spoken.

Cherryville consists of but few houses, has, however, an open and handsome situation, and the roads in the vicinity are planted with handsome and large cherry trees, whence the name of the place. I left this place, June 7th, at eight o’clock in the morning, and rode fourteen miles to much-esteemed Bethlehem. We passed through two small places, Kreiderville and Howardtown, and through a well-cultivated country; the grain and fruit, however, were suffering much from the drought, and beyond Howardtown we rode in a thick cloud of dust. I was uncommonly pleased, and felt quite at home, when, on leaving the woods, I saw the friendly Bethlehem before me. But it was quite different from what it was last autumn; it was then cold, and the trees beginning to lose their leaves; now summer had given every thing new life.

At Bethlehem I went to my old quarters at Bishop’s tavern, and soon after my arrival visited the worthy Mr. Frueauf. He was the more pleased with my visit, as no one in Bethlehem believed that I would fulfil my promise of returning, except himself. He took me to his brother-in-law, the Reverend Mr. von Schweinitz, who, at the very time I was at Bethlehem last autumn, had visited my father in Weimar, and spoken with my wife. Mr. von Schweinitz is on the mother’s side a great grandson of Count von Zinzendorf, and the brother of a deceased Lieutenant von Schweinitz, with whom I had been in early years in a company of the Saxon Guards. He is a very agreeable man, who unites a polished education with an excellent character. At dinner I met with pleasure with the old Dr. Stickel. After dinner I walked with Mr. Frueauf and Mr. von Schweinitz, across Lehigh bridge, to a promenade along the river, leading to a semicircular place. Benches were placed here, and a spring was overarched to keep wine, &c. cool. We then went below the garden of the girl’s school to the mill of the congregation, where there is also a place under a handsome linden tree, affording a very pleasing view into the vale. But Mr. von Schweinitz was unfortunately obliged to leave here this afternoon on business of the society, and I could enjoy his extremely agreeable acquaintance but for a short time.

I now visited Bishop Hueffel and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. I went again with the latter to the girl’s school, and again admired the great order which reigns there, and the handsome and fine work of the girls. In the evening I was present at service in the church; but it was not well attended, and consisted merely in singing several hymns, which Mr. Seidel sang, accompanied by a good organ. This devotional exercise occupied perhaps half an hour, and takes place every evening. The rest of the evening I spent in a very agreeable manner, at Mr. Seidel’s house, in company with Bishop Hueffel and Mr. Frueauf.

The following day passed in a very agreeable manner. I read several allemanic poems of Hebel with Mr. Frueauf, who played to me on his piano, which instrument must not be wanting in any house here; these poems may well be called Pennsylvanian, as they are written in a dialect which is spoken here, especially in Lancaster county and in the western country. Bishop Hueffel showed me his handsome collection of sketches of great masters, which are selected with much taste and science, as well as several other good paintings and drawings. This worthy Bishop, is a man of polished education, in whose society nothing but profit can be obtained, on which account I was particularly sorry that I could not longer stay at Bethlehem. I also visited the sister’s house, and these maidens, who have grown old in honour, seemed to be much pleased with my repeated visit. I was obliged to go through all the rooms, sit with several, and tell them of my travels, which was done with the greatest pleasure. I found many of them employed in making hats of fine chips of the ash tree. These are woven in a loom like a bolting cloth, then cut and sewed into hats. A merchant of this place made this speculation, sells the hats at three quarters of a dollar a piece, and is said to do much business.

But I could stay no longer. I left Bethlehem at five o’clock in the afternoon, with much regret, and rode twelve miles to Easton. The road led through a country tolerably hilly, and partly woody, but generally very well cultivated, and through one small place called Butstown. I had for several days past remarked, that instead of fences, dry walls were made in a very neat manner, consisting of numerous stones gathered from the fields. Easton, which I reached at seven o’clock, is a flourishing place of about three thousand inhabitants. It lies in a valley at the junction of the Delaware and Lehigh. The shores of both rivers, especially of the latter, are high; in this are also many rocks, and the country offers a number of picturesque views. The Delaware forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey; Easton on the right side belongs to the former. The place is regularly built. The greatest part of the houses are built of brick, though there are also some of stone. A large square place stands in the middle, surrounded with a row of Lombardy poplars, in the centre of which the Court-house is erected. I found these poplars in Pennsylvania, and especially in the eastern parts, preferred as an ornamental tree; in the greater part of the villages the streets, and even the roads, for some distance are planted, and some farms are surrounded with them. But it is said they attract insects, which infest the houses, on which account they have been rooted up in many places, as for instance, in the streets of New York; in Pennsylvania, on the contrary, to obviate this evil, their trunks as far as the branches, are covered with whitewash. The butternut tree, the leaves of which resemble those of the ash, is also used as an ornamental tree. At Easton a roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting on two stone piers, and is about two hundred and seventy-seven paces in length. Like the generality of these bridges, it is divided into two parts lengthwise, in order that wagons may not meet each other. A handsome chain bridge, about two hundred and ten paces in length, leads over the Lehigh. It is divided into three parts lengthwise; the extreme parts being for wagons and horses, and the middle and smallest for foot passengers. This bridge was erected ten years ago, and though it has borne heavy loads, has not yielded in the least degree.

I received in the evening visits from several Germans, who live in the place, among whom I mention particularly a physician, Dr. Muller, Mr. Schumann, and Mr. Till, from Bethlehem. The latter is a teacher of music and an instrument maker, in Easton. Mr. Schumann was sent to the seminary of the Moravians at Gnadenfeld in Silesia to become a minister. Not being pleased with this, he left Gnadenfeld, visited several German universities to study medicine, returned to America, and now dedicates himself in Easton to the law.

A military academy was founding in Easton, of which great expectations were formed. It was a private undertaking by Mr. Constant. Since it has been seen, that the military academy at West Point furnishes such excellent subjects, a strict military education is becoming more and more popular in the northern states. The number of pupils at West Point is too limited to admit all the young men for whom application is made. A captain Partridge, who was formerly an officer at West Point, but condemned to be cashiered by a court-martial on account of an act of insubordination towards General Swift and Lieutenant-colonel Thayer, has founded a military school at his own expense at Middletown, in Connecticut, in which he is said to give a very good education and solid instruction to the young men entrusted to him. The result of these schools shows more and more the advantage of a military education, and awakens a spirit of competition among individuals to erect similar schools.

I left Easton, June 9, at four o’clock, in the mail stage, and rode through New Jersey to New York, seventy-two miles. We passed the Delaware, and rode on a good turnpike, through a hilly, well-cultivated country, and through some unimportant places to a tolerably high mountain, called Schooley’s Mountain, where there is a mineral spring much frequented in summer. We afterwards came to a neat place in a handsome valley, called German Valley; then passing through Chester and Mondham, also handsome places, we came to Morristown. All these places in New Jersey are well located, containing generally brick and some large houses; the streets are wide, planted with poplars, and in the centre of each place is a roomy square opening, in the midst of which stands a high pole, whence the national flag waves on public days. Churches also are not wanting; I saw four in Morristown, which appears to contain about one thousand inhabitants. The churches have here generally high and white steeples, so that they may be seen at a considerable distance. We came also through a small place, Springfield, and then reached Elizabethtown, a very handsome place, surrounded with neat country-seats, the greater part of which belong to rich inhabitants of New York. After a short delay we left Elizabethtown, rode two miles farther through a meadow ground, much like Holland, and reached a bay. Here we left the stage, and went on board the steam-boat Bellona, being about fourteen miles distant from New York. This bay is properly an inland lake, and is called Newark bay, after a town on it of the same name. It receives its water from two streams, Passaic and Hackensack, and communicates with the sea towards the south through Staten Island sound, and on the east with the bay of New York through the channel of Castleton, through which we also passed. We had on the left a cape belonging to New Jersey, and on the right Staten Island belonging to New York. As it was narrow here we could see with great ease the handsome country-seats and gardens on both shores. But we enjoyed the handsomest and most unexpected sight, as we entered the bay of New York. On the right was the beautiful shore of Staten Island with Castleton, then the quarantine, where, besides several other vessels, lay a Swedish line-of-battle ship, which being sold to the Colombian government, remained here on account of some difficulties in the payment; beyond the Narrows the sea, then Fort La Fayette; we had in front of us the shore of Long Island, and on the left the bay of New York, with the forts on Governor’s and Bedlow’s Island, and between in the back ground the city of New York, with its pointed spires and forest of masts, in the North and East rivers. This sight is wonderfully beautiful, and well deserves to be represented as a panorama. Arrived in the bay, we turned to the left, passed the above-mentioned fortified islands, left Bedlow’s island and the slightly fortified Ellis’s island, passed Castle-garden, and landed from the North river at seven o’clock in the evening. I immediately repaired to the City Hotel in Broadway, where I had lodged last autumn, and occupied again the same apartment which I then did.