Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

I leave it the reader to imagine with what remarks and feelings I again entered this place. I gratefully turned to the Great Master of Life, who had so manifestly protected me during this long journey, and brought me back again to this place in health!

I passed at this time but few days in New York, and I mention but a few circumstances. I was indeed very busy during these days, but almost every thing was done with a view to my departure.

I made a visit to Colonel Burr, who was a vice-president of the United States at the commencement of this century, and a rival of Mr. Jefferson for the presidency, which was decided in favour of the latter by the vote of Mr. Claiborne. In consequence of this election, Colonel Burr fought a duel with General Hamilton, in which the latter was killed. Burr afterwards went to the western states, and, as it was said, intended to detach these from the eastern, and form them into a separate state. His plan was, however, discovered, and he was arrested, but acquitted for want of sufficient proof. He then travelled through Europe, and now lives at New York as a lawyer. During his travels in Europe, he came, in 1810, to Weimar, and spoke of a remarkably good reception on the part of my father. I found him to be a little old man, with very lively eyes, who spoke very well.

As I went to pay a visit to Mr. Zimmermann, consul of the Netherlands, a fire occurred in a tar manufactory near his house. It was fortunately checked by the excellent fire companies, before it extended. I had scarcely remarked the fire when the bells were rung, and fire cried in all the streets. In less than five minutes engines arrived, each drawn by about thirty people, by means of two long ropes. In New York numerous fire companies exist, among whom the different engines are divided. The members of these companies have voluntarily engaged themselves for this laborious service, and are relieved, in consequence, from jury and military service. They wear a short frock at a fire, of coarse linen, with a leathern belt, and a leathern hat with a number. As in many English cities, there are water pipes laid in the streets, with an inscription at the corner, how many feet distant is the opening. This has an iron cover to which each engine has a key, is brought near, and the water conveyed into it through a leathern hose. As I had nothing to do with the fire, I returned to my lodgings, and passed a second fire in another street. This was, however, less important than the former, and soon extinguished.

I went one evening to the Italian opera in the Park Theatre. This opera was established here last autumn, and is an attempt to transplant this exotic fruit to American ground. It does not, however, appear adapted to the taste of the public here; at least the speculation of the Italian theatre is not so profitable as was expected. The members of this theatre came from the Italian opera in London. At their head stands Signor Garcia, a very good bass. The orchestra was not numerous, but complete, and was directed by a French pianist, Mr. Etienne. Don Giovanni, by Mozart, was given; it was a great satisfaction to me to see this classic piece so well represented. At first nothing but operas of Rossini were played, but now operas of Mozart are preferred to the former by judges in this place. The price has been raised, and two dollars is asked for the first tier. The theatre continues till half past eleven, when one returns home through well-lighted streets.

As I heard that Governor Clinton was in the city, I hastened to pay him my respects, but did not find him at home; on this occasion I again saw how large the city was. The house where the governor lived is nearly two miles distant from the City Hotel, without being out of the city. I remarked that since last autumn three new churches have been built here, of which one, a presbyterian, was very tasteful; since this time also several new houses had been erected in this quarter. The number of the inhabitants of the city increases exceedingly, it now supposed to amount to one hundred and seventy thousand.

I rode also to the navy-yard in Brooklyn, on Long Island, where I paid a visit to the worthy Commodore Chauncy. I found him with his interesting family in excellent health, but very busy, for he had just despatched the corvette Lexington to New Foundland, in order to protect the American fishermen against the chicaneries of vessels of war belonging to other nations, cruising about there. I saw also the frigate Brandywine, which had returned from the Mediterranean sea, after taking General La Fayette to France; she was now undergoing repairs, in order to go to the Pacific ocean. A frigate and corvette were building.

I saw also the celebrated chess-player of Kempelen, which, with some other curiosities is exhibited by its present owner, the mechanician Mr. Maelzel, from Vienna. He is said to have already gained much money with it in New York. The automaton represents a Turk, sitting behind the table with a chess-board before him. A table with another chess-board stands opposite, on which any of the company begins a game of chess with the automaton. When the automaton is to make a move, a noise of wheels is heard in the table, and at the same time the Turk lifts his left hand, which rests on a cushion, opens his fingers, takes the piece, makes the move, closes his hand, and places it on the cushion again. If his antagonist makes a false move, the Turk knocks with his right hand on the table in anger, shakes his head, and expresses his indignation by a sound. When the Turk gained a game, Mr. Maelzel wound up the machine like a clock, by means of a handle at the table, then the Turk took a knight and placed it successively once in every square. The whole machine stands on four wheels, and may be very easily moved from one part of the chamber to the other. Whilst the Turk plays the game, Mr. Maelzel stands by; but it cannot be seen in what manner he directs his movements. It is said that Mr. Maelzel is negotiating with the keeper of the National Hotel, where he exhibited his automaton, for the purchase of the chess-player, and has already received an offer of nineteen thousand dollars.

After Mr. Maelzel had moved back the player, he showed us a small figure made of pasteboard, and representing a violoncello player, which moves his head and both hands. Mr. Maelzel plays several pieces on the piano, and the small figure accompanies him with his violoncello, keeping exact time. He then showed us a trumpeter as large as life, who plays several pieces with the trumpet in a masterly manner, and with his trumpet accompanies Mr. Maelzel, who plays the piano. I had already seen this trumpeter in 1809, at Vienna, and I also recollected to have seen the chess-player in 1812, in Milan, in the palace of the then vice-king of Italy. Mr. Maelzel finally showed us three small automata a foot and a half high. One of them represents a little girl, which when its arm is moved cries maman; the other a clown, who made grimaces and cried oh la la! This and another smaller figure were placed on a rope, on which they performed various evolutions.

To Castle-garden, on the battery, I went about seven o’clock in the evening. The tasteful illumination is effected by gas. A handsome and large saloon is also arranged here, where various refreshments may be obtained. A good orchestra played the whole evening, and rockets ascended from time to time. I was particularly pleased with the walk on the upper gallery, whence there is a beautiful view of Hudson river and the bay. It was a moonlight evening; the water was calm, and a gentle wind from the sea, refreshed the sultry atmosphere in a very agreeable manner.

At a visit which I made to Governor Clinton, in the City Hall, where his office is, I saw in the room of audience several handsome portraits by Sully, Peale, Trumbull, &c. I was most pleased with a full length portrait of the deceased Commodore Perry. This naval hero was represented at the moment of leaving in a small boat his vessel, which had became useless, and going on board of another, in which he gained his splendid victory over the English on Lake Erie. There is also here a full length portrait of General Jackson, and of Generals Brown, Macomb, and Swift, as well as those of Commodores Hull, Decatur, Bainbridge, M‘Donough and Chauncy, and of the former Governor Lewis. There is also a very good portrait of Ex-President Monroe, as well as of several of the earlier Governors of New York, among whom is one of the last Dutch Governors, Peter Stuyvezant, in full armour. In another hall appropriated to the meetings of the corporation, there is a portrait by Trumbull of the great Washington, and opposite to this, a portrait of the elder Governor Clinton, uncle of De Witt Clinton, as well as those of General Hamilton and Chief Justice Jay.

To my great delight I met with my fellow traveller, Mr. Bowdoin; we were much together; in company with him I paid a visit to the English Admiral, Sir Isaac Coffin. He is an American by birth, and although he belongs to the English navy and is a member of parliament, his whole heart still clings to his native country, and he has come hither to see it again before his death.

I was much disappointed at a second visit to the Italian opera. Il barbiere di Seviglia was announced, but on account of the indisposition of the Signorina Garcia, it was not represented. The same folly prevails among the public here, as among the English, to require a repetition of the greater part of the airs, even of the most difficult songs, without regard to the exhaustion of the singer.

I visited again, in company with the Rev. Mr. Schaeffer, the excellent institution, called House of Refuge for juvenile offenders. This institution has increased since last autumn, and now contains ninety-three young persons of both sexes; at present, however, there are only twenty-three of the female sex. Such an institution is certainly worthy of imitation; for children, who are led astray by wrong inclinations, by the wickedness of their parents, and by bad company, are brought back again to the right road, whereas in other countries they are shut up in public prisons with old offenders, and thereby they become still more corrupted. The house intended for the boys was finished, and inhabited by them. They were at this time employed in building another for the girls, parallel with the former. The boys sleep each alone in a cell on a piece of sail cloth, which they spread out and fasten by four pegs. These are long rooms, which serve as school rooms, and are on one side of the building two stories high. The second row is reached by wooden steps, and a gallery runs before the cells of this row. All the boys are employed; either in receiving instruction or in attending to some mechanical business. They are taylors, shoemakers, weavers, joiners, and basket-makers. I saw here a machine to cut out shoe soles and heels. Sharp irons are formed according to the shape, which is designed for the sole or heel; these irons are placed on a pair of wet hides, and brought under an iron press, which is worked like those in the mint. The boys who distinguish themselves by their industry and good behaviour, are placed in the first class, and carry on the left arm a brass plate, with the inscription, first class, as a mark of distinction. Those on the contrary, who have endeavoured to escape, drag a chain with a heavy iron ball. The period of detention in this institution is left to the discretion of the commissioners; they may be detained till their twenty-first year.

In order to show me the boys, the director gave notice with a whistle, upon which they arranged themselves, according to their size. Several large and strong fellows stood on the right wing, among which I saw one of a very good appearance, whom I saw here last year as clerk. His family had confined him here on account of an irresistible propensity to steal, against which, neither exhortation nor severe corporeal punishment availed. I saw two little boys of seven years, on the left wing, who had already begun to steal. The biography of every one is written in a separate book, and a journal afterwards kept of his behaviour, punishments, &c. The director of the house showed me some of these biographies; they are psychologically, exceedingly remarkable. The greater part of the boys had been induced to steal by larger ones, who have been confined on account of this offence in the penitentiary or state prison. The director called the former of these institutions the academy, and the latter the university for thieves. The benefit of this house of refuge is perceived in the clearest manner from these biographies, it is seen of what importance it is to anticipate the development of crime. It is certainly an effective mode of improving the morality of the lower classes. They say that it is more difficult to keep the girls in order, than the boys, and that upon the whole, the former are much worse than the latter. They are generally seduced, when they are but nine or ten years old. When not engaged in receiving instruction, they are employed in female occupations.

After leaving this interesting institution, we repaired to the alms-house on the East river. With the alms-house they have connected the workhouse, in which criminals are confined and employed for the benefit and advantage of the city. The institution was erected at the expense of the city, and consists of three long massive buildings, three stories high, with several side buildings, designed for hospitals, schools, smithshops, &c. The whole is surrounded with a wall, and divisions made in the interior, to separate the paupers from the criminals. The offices and the rooms occupied by the officers, as well as those of the poor, are arranged in the building fronting on the river, the second house also contains rooms for the poor, and workshops, in which those who can yet work, are usefully employed. About twelve hundred helpless poor people and children, among which are many foundlings, are here supported. They inhabit large halls, which, however, have a bad smell, and I missed that cleanliness, which is indispensably necessary in such an establishment. A poor-house, is at best an unpleasant, and when it is not cleanly kept, a disgusting sight. Those who are confined, are criminals of a lower kind, the worst are not confined longer than three years. The men work during the day, either in the fields belonging to the city, or in the public streets. A chain is attached to their leg, and they are under the inspection of appointed sentinels. The women are employed in various manners. A treading-mill was formerly in operation in a side building; but this has not been used for a year, as it was thought injurious to the health of the prisoners. A kind of typhus raged in the prison last year, which carried off numbers of the prisoners. These sleep in separate cells, each of which, is seven feet long, and three feet broad. Each prisoner has here, as in the house of refuge, a piece of sail cloth, spread out on four pegs, on which he sleeps. There is a small grate in each door, which admits the necessary light into the cell. There are sixty cells in one hall, all on one side, in five rows above each other; each row has a small gallery. The hall receives its light from above. A pulpit, opposite the cells, is erected in this hall for worship; the prisoners who are confined during the service, stand behind the grate in their doors, whence they may see the minister. The whole arrangement has, as remarked above, a handsome and open situation; there is a belvidere on the roof of the front house, whence a handsome and extensive prospect may be enjoyed.

On the last day of my stay in New York and in America, I went with Mr. Zimmermann into some stores, and walked in some of the oldest parts of the city. In these parts the streets are crooked, narrow and gloomy, well adapted to retain the yellow fever. In the neighbourhood, however, of the alms-house there is a building three stories high, where the incurable lunatics, supported by the corporation of the city, are received; but the two upper stories are designed to receive, when the yellow fever appears, those who suffer with this dreadful evil, in order to remove, as quickly as possible, the infection from the city. Some old Dutch houses stand in the narrow streets, built by the first settlers, consisting only of a lower story, with the gable-ends towards the street. They are building in Wall street, a new exchange, which, when completed, will be a handsome building. The post-office is already placed in its lower story. Wall street is the street in which the most commercial business is done, and in which most of the banks stand; it is to be regretted that it is one of the ugliest streets in the city.

After having paid some farewell visits, I passed a part of my last evening in America, in a very agreeable manner in the house of Mrs. Bell. It is the most agreeable house for strangers in New York, in which they always meet with a very good reception. I enjoyed also, for several hours, the company of Mr. Bowdoin, and of Colonel Jones, the brother-in-law of Governor Clinton.

CHAPTER XXVII

Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool

To my great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen and learned so much, and in which much more still remained to be seen and learned: sed fata trahunt hominem!

On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as she not only carried the Pacific’s passengers, but likewise their friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant.

After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing to head winds, could not proceed on her voyage. This ship belongs to the Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid board.

The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbés Roux and Richards, a Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a resident of Richmond.

Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While sailing along the coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, I had a breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my travels, I enjoyed perfect health.

The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners.

As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,72 Baron Lederer,73 with his two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major Chotard,74 with his lady and four children, and also a young Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable.