Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In the patent-office at Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales.

Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still red-hot were knocked asunder.

In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged in the hall, as trophies, &c. An arch of steel is formed over this hall by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these are English, and trophies of the late Commodore Perry’s victory on Lake Erie.

The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o’clock, I went with Mr. Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. It is in Pittsburgh style to go to this church, while it would be unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst’s pew, which was rather full, and the air hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted two hours.

Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English.

Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy, and the fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is warmed by steam, throughout.

After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden wheels, turned by a horse-mill.

We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still in its infancy.

Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave.

CHAPTER XXV

Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city

On the 23d of May, at eight o’clock, we commenced our journey to Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it pleased me in every respect, and would have pleased me still more had I continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves Ramsay’s hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses but twice, at M‘Miller’s and New Alexandria. These changes are too distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the change.

We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New Alexandria and Blairsville – all unimportant. The streams were the Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of cultivation. It was eleven o’clock at night before we reached Armagh, as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o’clock, A. M. we continued our journey.

We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, Blair’s Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, we came to another of the parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on this mountain, were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten.

After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed is called Blair’s Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which adjoins it.

After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group of good houses, Blair’s Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made at Harper’s Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable manner.

Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain. Parallel with the latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces its way. About nine o’clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred inhabitants.

We intended to leave Alexandria at three o’clock, A. M., but the driver overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o’clock. We rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior’s ride, we returned seven miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack’s mountains, at the place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack’s mountains rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, the high Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till ten o’clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, though I heard it was very handsome.

May 26th, we arose at two o’clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen’s Ferry. The water was low, so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick’s hill to Clark’s Ferry, on the Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark’s Ferry, we had an extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high Mount Peter on the other shore.

At Clark’s Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna with its two extremities, not far from Clark’s Ferry, and again eight miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at Nazareth, then at Harper’s Ferry, as I went to the west, and last of all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to Charlotteville.

Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not united by mortar, but by iron clamps.

At two o’clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, whereas the barns are generally built of stone, at least the lower parts containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie creeks.

The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten o’clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds.

I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took advantage of the cool morning to view the place.

Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed wooden bridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, to cool wine.