Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o’clock, A. M. The turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o’clock in the evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on which we rode for several miles.

The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house.

Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and returned to his friends at Washington.

I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr. Roberts Vaux, the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, chargé d’affaires of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside over the house.

Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls learn to sew and knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance.

I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of making great progress in it. In order to teach the pupils the principles of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction gave me.

I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for painting.69 But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept together.

I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since 1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because the merchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president Monroe’s administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to Washington.

We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin’s grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, with the following inscription: —

I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy.

Another visit was made to Peale’s Museum. I found, however, nothing new, except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and after they had died in convulsions, swallowed. Among the many gentlemen who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting change them into friends.

I again met with a very friendly reception on the part of Mr. Arnold Halbach, and his brother. The former had the kindness to attend me in several of my excursions, as far as his extensive business would allow. He is a patron of the fine arts, and as such, took me to two painters of this place, Eicholz and Birch. The former, from Lancaster, is the son of a coppersmith, in which occupation he himself worked, but having a talent for portrait painting, he has devoted himself thereto with much success. His portraits have the merit of strong resemblance, and are also tolerably well, and correctly painted. The other artist, Birch, possesses a very fine talent for landscape painting, and particularly for sea-pieces. I had hoped to meet with views of the United States at his house, but was disappointed. Mr. Birch told me that landscape painters found so little encouragement in the United States, that they lost all courage to design handsome scenes in their native country. His sea-pieces are very handsome, but none are entirely completed. He is particularly happy in representing storms. Whilst Mr. Eicholz, with moderate talents, does much business, Mr. Birch, with great talent, is often a prey to severe distress.70

I saw at the house of a dealer in looking-glasses, a gallery of pieces by living painters, among others, of Sully. One of these paintings is really terrific. It represents a man, who, with his horse, is attacked and entwined by an anaconda. The expression of pain in the horse is very well represented, but the countenance of the man, as well as the whole subject, is horrid. Few of the paintings were very remarkable; I was most pleased with one by Birch: a boat in a storm, in which the crew were saving themselves from a wreck.

I inquired, in company with Mr. Niederstetter after maps, but the result was not very satisfactory. It is very difficult to furnish maps of the United States, as they have not yet been trigonometrically surveyed, and the only astronomical designation of places and maps are founded on common surveys. At a dinner given by General Cadwalader, commander of the Philadelphia militia, and one of the most distinguished citizens, among other new acquaintances, I made also that of General Harrison, of Cincinnati, senator of the United States. He had been a general in the army during the last war, and defeated the English General Proctor, on the boundaries of Canada, on which occasion, the celebrated Indian chief, Tecumseh lost his life. But the general, to the great regret and disadvantage of the army, resigned, on account of a dispute with the then secretary of war, Armstrong.

At a party, which consisted of perhaps thirty persons, I was much questioned about my journey, and particularly about my stay at New Harmony. Mr. Owen’s system does not meet with much favour here, and it is not thought that his society will last long. Much offence is taken at its irreligious principles, and much surprise is manifested, that Mr. M‘Clure, as an old, learned and sensible man, should have been so captivated by this new system, as to declare in a meeting of a learned society, when a proposition was made to buy a new building, that they should only wait a couple of years, till this new social system should be extended over the country, as land would then be so cheap in the cities, that it might be purchased almost for nothing.

I must not neglect to mention a little present from Mr. Vaux. It is a snuff-box, made of the wood of the elm tree at Kensington,71 under which William Penn made the treaty of 1682, with the Indians. It is very simple, and decorated merely with a silver medal, on which is inscribed “Penn’s treaty, 1682,” and below, “unbroken faith.”

CHAPTER XXVI

Journey from Philadelphia to New York. – Coal-mines of Pottsville and Mauch Chunk. – Bethlehem

I left Philadelphia, June 3d, at four o’clock in the morning, to see the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains, and then pay another visit to my friends in Bethlehem; after which, I must repair to New York, as to my great sorrow, the time for my embarkation approached. I rode fifty-two miles in a mail stage to Reading. Notwithstanding a gust on the previous evening, it was again very warm, and on the latter part of the journey particularly, we were much incommoded by dust.

At first we took the same way, which I had taken last autumn to Bethlehem, through Sunville, Germantown, and Chesnut Hill. The present appearance of the country was very different from its aspect at that rough season of the year. Every thing was now alive and green, and the numerous and elegant gardens of Germantown, were filled with the beautiful flowers. Although this place is three miles long, it presents no tedious uniformity. The various country-seats of the wealthy inhabitants of Philadelphia, which are tolerably close to each other, rather present an agreeable change. Chesnut Hill affords a very extensive view over the surrounding handsome and thickly inhabited country. The valley of the Schuylkill appeared to particularly great advantage, which by means of dams and canals, made near shallow places, is navigable till beyond the Blue Mountains. Beyond Chesnut Hill, we left the above-mentioned road and turned on the left to Norristown, a very romantic place on the left side of the Schuylkill. Before reaching this, we passed extensive marble quarries, which are about one hundred feet deep, and form very picturesque hollows. The blocks are raised by means of machines, worked by horses. This marble is gray, and is used in the fire-places of most of the respectable houses in Philadelphia. Several of the mile-stones on our road were also made of this marble. The cuttings are partly burned to lime and partly thrown on the turnpike. The turnpike, as an American one, was on this route tolerably good.

Beyond Norristown we again rode through a very handsome country. Between Chesnut Hill and the marble quarries, we passed a good stone bridge over the Wissahiccon creek, which turns many mills. Between Norristown and Trap, a small place through which the road runs, we passed two other creeks, the Skippar and Perkiomen creeks, and at Pottsgrove, over a third, called Monataway creek, which here empties into the Schuylkill. The road then went over a hilly country through Warrensburg and Exertown, and over the Mannokesy and Rush creeks. At last we saw Reading, in a lovely valley. It had a military aspect, as a company of volunteers had held a review to-day, and were recreating themselves at a tavern near the town, after their toils. At five o’clock we reached Trautman’s tavern, where we found good lodgings.

Reading contains about five thousand inhabitants; it consists of a long principal street, which is very wide, in the middle, and of several other streets, which cross it at right angles. The place depends on agriculture and some manufactories. Many hats, especially felt hats, are made here, which are sent in great numbers to the slave states and the West Indies. I here visited Mr. Hiester, former governor of Pennsylvania. This worthy old man bears his age, which is seventy-four years, remarkably well. He took me to his son-in-law, Dr. Muhlenberg, the German Lutheran minister of this place, son of the celebrated naturalist and learned man of this name, who died about ten years ago. We took tea at his house, and then walked to the Schuylkill, over which a covered wooden bridge led. We saw also a part of the canal, on which coal is brought to Philadelphia from the upper parts of the Schuylkill. Here at Reading, this canal ascends four locks, which appear to be built in a tolerably solid manner. It made a strange impression on me to hear every person speak German. On the road from Philadelphia, I had every where heard this language; but in Reading scarcely any thing else than German is spoken, and better than I had heard in the state of Ohio, or in Lancaster. Reading possesses a good German school under Dr. Muhlenberg’s direction, in which this language is taught in its purity. He himself has a numerous and selected library of English and German books. Two canal boats run at present alternately every week between Philadelphia and Reading, in which about one hundred travellers may be accommodated. They leave the one place at three o’clock in the morning, and reach the other about five o’clock in the evening.

I hired at Reading a carriage with two horses, for three dollars a day, in order to visit the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains. I left Reading at seven o’clock in the morning, and rode thirty-six miles to Pottsville. We passed over a turnpike, which was occasionally very rough. It several times led us in the neighbourhood of the canal, the surface of which is about thirty feet wide on an average. It is lead by means of wooden boxes over several deep streams. Between Reading and Pottsville there are about eighty locks, several of which we passed; at one time I saw seven together, which formed a very pleasing sight. About noon we reached a little German place, called Hamburg, half way to Pottsville, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, not far from the Schuylkill and its canals. On the road to Hamburg, we passed but one creek which had a name, Maiden creek. I dined at Hamburg, and met, as it was Sunday, a number of idlers, all Germans, assembled in the tavern. Several Germans of education in the United States, made the remark to me, which I found but too true, that next to the Irish, the Germans form the roughest portion of the emigrants. The truth of this remark again forced itself on my attention in Hamburg, and especially in the case of a young doctor, who had formerly studied in several German universities, and gave vent to his giddiness in a vulgar manner. It was the first time in the United States that the affectation of republicanism arrested my attention.

Not far beyond Hamburg, we came to a defile where the Schuylkill forces a passage through the Blue Mountains. This narrow vale was very romantic, and my interest in the scene was greatly increased by the numberless blooming kalmias, improperly called laurel, the rhododendra, which offered a splendid sight amidst the rich vegetation of chesnut trees, butternuts, oaks, elms, sycamores, blooming tulip-trees, and sumacs. How frequently I thought of the great pleasure which my father would enjoy, if he could travel with me among these mountains, and admire the treasures of the vegetable world with his experienced eye! The way led along a mountain over the Schuylkill, which lay deep below me. It forms here a curve, and is made navigable by means of dams, as there was too little room to continue the canal on the side of it. After we had passed the chief defile of the Blue Mountains, we left for a time the navigable Schuylkill with its canal, and passed through a narrow vale, through which the little Schuylkill flows, which is covered with kalmias, rhododendrons, and some azaleas. Afterwards came another vale, formed by Scrub Hill and Scollop Hill; then a long mountain, called Limestone Ridge. Beyond this mountain we reached Orwigsburg, which, entirely enclosed by mountains, occupies a romantic situation; it is built in the form of a cross, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants. We rode farther, through a valley covered with trees, again reached the Schuylkill with its canal, and at length arrived at Pottsville.

This place is scarcely to be found in any map, as it arose but three or four years ago, and owes its existence to the neighbouring coal-mines. The navigation of the Schuylkill commences here; this is the place where the vessels which navigate this canal and river, small keel-boats, are built. A couple of saw-mills are erected for this purpose, as well as a high furnace, in which the iron ore found in the neighbourhood is smelted. The coal-mines are worked under the direction of the Schuylkill Coal Company, which has made the Schuylkill navigable at its own expense, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia and New York. A bushel of coal, weighing eighty pounds, is sold at Philadelphia for twenty-five cents. The river was made navigable only about eighteen months ago, and it is only since this time, that they have commenced to dig out coal.

Pottsville consists of a single street, lying in a somewhat narrow vale on the right shore of the Schuylkill, and owes its name to a Mr. Pott, who commenced the first iron works. The entrances of two coal-mines are seen on the shore opposite the place; there are some which, however, are not worked on account of scarcity of labourers. I became acquainted in our tavern with a Mr. Baker from New York, who is one of the chief men in this undertaking, as well as with a Mr. Taylor, editor of the paper called the Miner’s Journal, which bears a good character.

I rode with these two gentlemen to the coal-mines, two miles and a half from Pottsville, and not far from Norwegian creek. The coal appears almost on the surface of the ground, in which a certain dark colour denotes its presence. No one thoroughly understands the business of coal-mining, and therefore it has hitherto been conducted in a very unsystematic and expensive manner. Shafts are made wherever it is thought that coal would be found, and when a vein is discovered it is worked. The veins run from east to west, and then descend in a southern direction at an angle of forty-five degrees; between the veins, slate is commonly found about twelve feet thick. Under the lower layer of slate, coals have been again discovered by boring, but have not yet been farther worked. The shafts are not much above twenty feet deep; the coals are brought up in buckets by means of two windlasses; at one place machinery worked by a horse is employed for this purpose. One shaft contains water, which, as the pumps are not yet in order, must be drawn out in buckets in a very tedious and expensive manner. The coal is of a superior quality, burns very well, and contains no sulphur. About fifty men work in the mines, each of which on an average receives monthly fifteen dollars. Hitherto the society has employed thirty vessels to transport the coals to Philadelphia. They are brought from the mines in large wagons to the head of the navigation, and are weighed before unloading. A profit of a certain amount is expected to arise from the working of these mines, which, however, will only be properly calculated, when the mines are worked more systematically. They design to connect the works with the river, which certainly would be a considerable saving, by means of a rail-road. A mountain, which runs parallel with that containing the mines, and which is yet covered with trees, is also said to contain great quantities of coal, but has not yet been worked.