Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835

A very fine orangery, with dark roof, is situated at a considerable distance from the Botanic gardens, and near it a very complete flower house was erecting, the rafters of which were of metal, and the sashes all wood, heated with smoke flues, that pass under the pit, where an arched cellar is formed, so that mushrooms or other vegetables may be accelerated. I regretted that this house was not heated by hot-water, which would have rendered it very complete. It is intended to remove near to it the kitchen garden, which is situated at a very different part of the town, and in a very dilapidated state. Numerous pits for melons, and pines, are in these gardens, but in this state of intended transition they are not kept in good repair. After going through these different departments, M. Bosch, the superintendent of all the Royal gardens, then returned to the Botanic garden, while M. Hertz conducted me to a small villa garden, containing a very choice collection of Cacteæ, some fine large specimens of the Opuntia tribe and Cereuses were here.

Having called on the Baron de Meyendorff, the Russian ambassador at Stuttgard, his excellency accompanied me to a small nursery garden, which contained some good specimens of plants of the more hardy sorts of the New Holland and Cape species, but little of novelty amongst them. From hence we proceeded to the chateau of General Spizenberg, which has been lately erected on the side of a hill, commanding a most delightful and extensive prospect of Stuttgard and its varied scenery. I was much gratified to find that the old warrior, after undergoing the fatigues of many campaigns, was now devoting his leisure hours to the pursuit of botany and horticulture. Baron Meyendorff informed me that the general acts entirely as his own gardener, and he has certainly succeeded in forming a very choice collection of plants, consisting of hardy shrub, perennials, and exotics. There are grown in this small spot, sixty sorts of Camellias, a good variety of Ericas, and numerous other Cape plants, with some very curious Cacteæ. In a little stove, divided in two divisions, I observed also a few pine apples, but of a very inferior size, and not worth the trouble even of eating, let alone rearing. The other description of plants looked healthy, the peach-trees against the low wall were very well managed and neatly trained. The vines were also judiciously trained to a wooden trellising against the wall. On the whole it is an interesting collection, and well worth the stranger's notice. On my return I proceeded in the afternoon to Rosenstein palace, which is about two English miles from Stuttgard; but his excellency having the kindness to send his carriage, and being again accompanied by M. Hertz, we soon arrived there, and again met with M. Bosch.

This palace is a magnificent building, placed on a fine situation, commanding beautiful views of the Swabian Alps, also of Carstadt, where there are found buildings of the Romans, and large pieces of fossils, particularly of the mammoth. The Necker also forms a fine feature from this palace.

The grounds are very extensive, and the drives and walks well kept; the ground is now formed into beautiful sloping turf, which I understood was formerly in a very unlevel and rough state. It is beautifully diversified with various fine drives, which I could not but admire, being destitute of the fantastic twists, that are so often thrown in without the the least meaning.

At present the grounds around this palace have rather a naked appearance, for want of trees and shrubs, but this defect M. Bosch is rapidly removing, so that a few years will produce a very different effect; much difficulty is however experienced in getting the trees established, owing to the high elevation of the ground, and the general droughts in summer. At Rosenstein, I saw one of the most complete vineyards that I ever met with, formed on the slope of a hill, with wooden trellisses, so constructed as to have the greatest degree of the sun's rays, at that season when the fruit requires it most. These trellisses are arranged about six feet apart each other, and are formed thus, △, so that the vines are laid on an inclined plane, and the fruit appearing on all sides, have really a delightful effect. The trellis is five feet high, and six feet wide at bottom, and the whole constructed something like a parabola, and continued along the slope of ground in a curved line. I did not observe the vine in such a prolific state any where else, and the whole looked remarkably neat. At a considerable distance from the palace, some very extensive fruit terraces were forming on the slope of a hill, near the town of Carstadt; nearly two hundred men were busily employed blasting rock, and forming the terraces, which are intended for the vine, fig, peach, apricot, &c., and from the fine sheltered situation in which they are placed, I imagine the success will be fully equal to their expectations. On approaching these terraces I was at first surprised to observe the workmen surrounded by a number of soldiers, who were stationed at different parts, throughout them. I however soon observed that this precaution was necessary, as many of the workmen so employed, were convicts, and heavily loaded with chains round their legs. I walked over a great part of these extensive grounds, and was much pleased with the different objects I saw, and improvements proceeding with.

Sept. 12th. Started this morning, for Hohenheim palace, which is situated about six English miles from Stuttgard; it is now occupied as an agricultural establishment, and has attached to it a thousand acres of ground, devoted to agricultural experiments. I was much gratified by seeing the granary of seeds, consisting of a great variety of the different kinds used in husbandry, which was said to amount to five hundred sorts. The stock of cattle and sheep, is very fine and extensive. The repository of agricultural implements contains the various instruments used in farming, from every known country, and are all kept in excellent order.

The different domestic apartments in the palace, are occupied by numerous pupils, who congregate here from all parts of Germany. I was happy to learn that the produce of the establishment was sufficient to meet all the expences, attending its cultivation. In the pleasure ground, or rather nursery, a great quantity of the more common sorts of shrubs is cultivated. I observed a fine tree covered with fruit of the Prunus cirrhifera, an excellent plum, quite round, and of a purple colour. I also saw a fine specimen of the Tilia alba, that was planted by Duke Charles the Fraxinus juglandifolia, was a particularly noble plant, as well as the Quercus macrocarpa, and various other species of this genus. There are about sixty arpents of ground here, under young fruit tree cultivation, which are grown for sale.

During the time that Duke Charles resided at Hohenheim, the gardens were much celebrated, and attracted numerous visitors from all parts of Germany. There is a fine piece of ground called the English garden, that was much admired, but now we have only the forlorn remains of it left. At the front of the palace, are still several of the old flower beds, and the balustrade wall, which forms a fine sweep, at the principal or entrance front. It was in Duke Charles's time well stocked with orange trees, but none are now in existence. The ground falls considerably, towards the south, from the palace, and when under garden cultivation, it must have had a very pretty effect. The view from the windows, over a small town called Boblingen, and the surrounding scenery, is very fine, the Swabian Alps appearing in the distance. I should imagine Hohenheim palace, about sixty years ago, must have been one of the most magnificent in Wurtemberg, but the apartments are rapidly going to decay. The new road lately formed near to Stuttgard, winding through the vineyard plantations, with their numerous small huts or watch boxes, has also a very pretty effect, although rather fatiguing from its steep ascent.

On my return from Hohenheim, I again called on Mr. Koster, the British secretary of legation, who accompanied me to the house of M. de Kerner, where I saw eighty-three volumes of the splendid Botanical work, executed by the late M. de Kerner, which consists of above one thousand drawings of the various fruits, and other exotic flowering plants, which are undoubtedly exquisite specimens of that gentleman's abilities as a draughtsman. These volumes were only purchased by the royal libraries of Vienna, St. Petersburg, Munich, Stuttgard, and Copenhagen, at a price of seventeen hundred pounds; only six or seven copies were executed, one of which is still on hand, in the possession of M. de Kerner. After again procuring my passport, I started about eight o'clock in the evening, for Carlsruhe, where I arrived at five the next morning.

Sept. 13th. On my arrival I found that the diligence would start in the course of twenty minutes for Baden. I started by it, and arrived there at ten o'clock. His Excellency Lord George William Russell, kindly gave me a note of introduction to Sir John Frost, the late secretary of the Medico-Botanical Society of London, who was then residing at Baden, and practising as a physician. This gentleman furnished me with several notes of introduction, to some of his Botanical friends, and also kindly shewed me the different objects of interest about the town; amongst which was the fountain of mineral-water, so much celebrated, for various diseases. It is of a very high temperature; so much so, that I was unable to drink a glass of it, without first letting it cool; from the appearance of the fountain, one would imagine that a strong fire was burning under it. From the baths we proceeded to the castle garden, and from hence, a considerable way up the hill, where is a most delightful prospect of the town, and its very romantic scenery. The old castle forms a prominent object of attraction, which, with the tremendous precipices of rock, and plantations, render this spot the most picturesque that I had previously met with on my tour through Germany.

An excellent promenade, called the English garden, with neatly kept walks and pieces of lawn, is much frequented by the inhabitants and visitors. Situated in the promenade is a magnificent building called the "Conversation House," with numerous orange trees arranged in front of it.

In the interior, I was much surprised to see in a very capacious room, splendidly furnished, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen, during Sunday, very busy at the gambling tables; in fact the ladies appeared to be fully as expert gamblers as the gentlemen. I also made a visit to the convent, where two skeletons of saints decorated with numerous pearls, rings, and other costly ornaments are exhibited; the skull and teeth appeared to be in pretty good preservation, but these superstitious decorations, so perfectly incongruous, might be well dispensed with. The number of strangers calculated to have visited Baden, during the season of 1835, are said to have amounted to thirteen thousand. The scenery for a great part of the way from Carlsruhe to Baden, is considerably varied, and the old castle of Eberstein appearing on an eminence, with well planted hills, forms a lively contrast. We also passed through a handsome town called Rastadt, situated on the river Murg, where a palace, belonging to the grand duke of Baden, appears conspicuous from the road.

Sept. 14th. I called this morning on Mr. Kennedy (brother to the Marquess of Ailsa,) and delivered to him a note of introduction that I received from Lord G. W. Russell. Mr. Kennedy very kindly accompanied me to the Botanic Garden, and introduced me to M. Held, the gardener, a very intelligent man; here the enormous height that the Melaleuca stipulacea had attained, which was nearly forty feet, is truly astonishing. Various other Melaleucas and Banksias were nearly as high; the Dracæna Draco (Dragon-tree,) was about twenty feet in height; and the Pomaderis apetala almost thirty feet. In this garden are various ranges of houses for the cultivation of tropical and other green-house plants, which are extensively cultivated. The houses have all dark roofs, with glass only in front; yet the greater part of their inmates looked very healthy, particularly the greenhouse plants; but these had the advantage of being exposed to the weather during the summer months. Various pits were also in this establishment for the growth and protection of the half-hardy species. The Succulentæ are extensively cultivated; there are nearly one hundred and forty species of Mesembryanthemums, and about one hundred different kinds of Aloes, besides a pretty good collection of the Cacteæ. The Rhododendron and Azalea, are cultivated out of doors, which is rarely the case in any other garden in Germany.

The herbaceous ground is formed into oblong squares, and these again divided into narrow beds, which are well stocked with a great variety of hardy flowering perennials. The whole of this botanical department was remarkably neat and clean, having, it is understood, been much improved since M. Held was appointed. It appeared to me, however, to be much too crowded with these heavy looking houses, which are too numerous for a space of ground, undoubtedly too contracted and confined for such a collection of plants.

The park, or pleasure-ground, adjoins the garden, and although of a dull flat surface, yet it contains many very fine specimens of ornamental trees and shrubs. I observed, for instance, the Salisburia adiantifolia, sixty feet high, and several very large tulip trees, and the Sophora Japonica; a fine specimen of the Acer dasycarpum, measured no less than a space of ground of twenty yards regular diameter. I was much pleased with a small flower garden, close to the palace windows, which was well stocked with flowers in full bloom. The grounds are laid out with numerous avenues radiating from the palace, which extend in a straight line for a considerable distance; I reckoned twenty-seven of these avenues, which had certainly rather an imposing effect, and various walks and rides that branch off through the grounds in different directions. There is also an extensive piece of ground enclosed with a high wall, occupied as a nursery, and well stocked with various hardy species of trees and shrubs. The front of the palace, next Carlsruhe, was ornamented with large orange trees. The orangery was a large building, the front of which was well covered with grape-vines in a prolific state.

Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, passing through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses, about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small, is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very fine species of Cacteæ. Along by the east side of the garden is an avenue of very fine specimens of the Robinia inermis, which is also continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.

I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment, belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at the end of the grass, next to the circular piece of ground, where the orange trees are arranged. On each side of this principal avenue is situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular spaces at their junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.

I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous blocks of rock, and the water dashing against them, is another object deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction, but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous arborial openings on both sides.

The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and numerous species of the Genus Erica are also cultivated. In the kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in Germany; the south-side glass, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs, and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five hundred, which were in a healthy state.

Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to the principal director, I experienced the greatest attention from him; the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy of notice.

Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them, and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of the site of the castle.

In the interior of the building is the celebrated Heidelberg tun, which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quantity made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished. Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I passed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full bearing.

The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.

Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we passed from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits, or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are under vineyard culture.

Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.

Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the arboretum department.

About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water, with a fanciful boat, for passing to and from a small island in the centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.

I here observed a large number of horses, belonging to the Grand Duke, passing through the town to the Ducal stables. There are military barracks, and a large establishment of soldiers stationed here. This is evidently not a town of trade, but is principally occupied by the military.

Left Darmstadt at three o'clock for Frankfort; the country betwixt these towns is not much varied, but the soil appears very fertile, and produces good crops. I was, however, quite astonished at the number of carriages and other vehicles passing and re-passing betwixt Frankfort and Heidelberg; the road appeared to be nearly as much crowded as any of the English roads leading to London, and amongst these travellers were many English families.

Arrived at Frankfort at six o'clock in the evening; the hotels were all so crowded with strangers that it was with difficulty I procured a bed, but at last the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre obtained me a room in a private house.

Sept. 17th. In the morning I visited the Catholic cathedral, which is said to be one thousand years old, and contains a curious clock and almanac, made and placed in it about four hundred years ago; and then proceeded to the banking-house of Messrs. Koch and Co., and delivered to them a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell. They kindly furnished me with notes of introduction to several of the best gardens in Frankfort. I then visited the nursery gardens of M. Rintz, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, and contain about eighteen English acres, chiefly occupied with fruit trees. There are also several hothouses and pits for Cape and other plants, which are pretty extensively cultivated, with a good variety of Ericas and other greenhouse plants, as well as several fine specimens of Cacteæ, and a very extensive variety of the Camelliæ; but unfortunately none of these being at this season in flower, I had not the pleasure of seeing M. Rintz's celebrated variety, which is said to be very fine. This gentleman then accompanied me to the garden of M. Andreæ Willemer, which is close to the town, but is very limited in extent; it contains a very good greenhouse, and low pits and frames, which were then well stocked with a very fine collection of Cacteæ, amongst which were many very scarce species. This gentleman devotes much attention to the cultivation of this tribe of plants, and appeared to put a higher value on many of them than they are actually worth; for instance, the Cactus Senilis he would not part with for fifty pounds, although possessing duplicates. There was also a good assortment of Cape plants and a number of Ericas, which are now beginning to be more extensively cultivated in Germany than they previously were.