Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835

I should however have observed that the fine marble group of Neptune was much injured by the French army, during the time they occupied Potsdam. In short it is really grievous to see the depredations that were committed by that army on the sculpture about Potsdam and Sans-souci, whilst they resided there. The soldiers for amusement were in the habit of firing musket balls at the different groups and statues.

August 30th. Left Potsdam at eight o'clock in the morning, for the Pfauen Insel, or Peacock Island, where I had appointed to meet Mr. Cuming at nine o'clock. We had to cross a branch of the river Havel to get to the island, which contains a collection of plants and animals somewhat resembling the Zoological Gardens in Regent's Park. I was here more fortunate in finding M. Fintelman at home, than I was at Sans-souci, and having a letter of introduction to him from his uncle, who superintends the royal gardens at Charlottenburg, I found him remarkably attentive, and an intelligent young man. I was here surprised to find the Robinia pseudacacia had attained seven feet in circumference, at four feet from the ground, the branches of which extend over thirty two yards of ground in diameter. I also observed some fine specimens of the oak, which were little inferior to our largest English oaks. The conservatory is an oblong building, about one hundred and twenty feet by forty, and forty two feet high, and consists of several tiers of front sashes, with a span roof, the north side being a dead wall with a gallery for resting in behind it, which commands a full view of the plants underneath.

I was much gratified, by the very flourishing state of the plants, and their remarkable neatness. A very fine collection of the Palmæ, is cultivated in this stove or conservatory, some of which have made a rapid progress in their growth. The Latania borbonica measured twenty seven feet in height, spreading over a space of equal dimensions in diameter. I understood that his majesty the king of Prussia frequently breakfasts in the summer season in this conservatory, under the shade of the palm fronds (or leaves). I remarked also the Pandanus utilis twenty three feet high; the Dracæna Draco, (Dragon Tree) had likewise grown thirty six feet high; Pandanus sylvestris thirteen feet in height, and eleven feet in diameter across its branches; the Bambusa arundinacea, forty feet high; a shoot of this cane, grew seven feet six inches in the course of three weeks; the Corypha umbraculifera, a very magnificent specimen. The Latania borbonica is placed in the centre of the conservatory; the tub in which it grows is completely concealed by planting around it various ferns, and other low growing plants, which are tastefully arranged, and form a nice little stage round the tub, having a very neat appearance, with the walk round it, which shews the palm to the best advantage. Opposite to this spot is a recess in which is placed a small fountain tastefully decorated by ferns that succeed well in a shady situation. There is likewise in this recess, a very handsome marble screen, richly carved and ornamented. The grounds are very judiciously laid out in various clumps of flowering shrubs and summer flowers, and were at this time in full perfection. One of the finest Hydrangeas that I have seen, was in full bloom, and its large purple-blue flowers were very conspicuous. The grass lawn was in a much better state than any other that I had previously seen in Germany, or even met with during my tour on the continent, and the whole garden ground very neatly kept. The island is said to contain about four hundred English acres. The erections for the different animals and birds are judiciously placed, and consist of handsome structures, arranged from two to three hundred yards or more apart; these apartments were kept remarkably clean and in good order. An extensive collection of beasts and birds are preserved in this establishment. The grounds are considerably varied, and some fine views are to be seen from several parts of it, as well as from the top of some prospect towers. The effect of the river Havel, and surrounding plantations at the opposite sides, adds expressive features to this landscape.

After seeing the various objects most deserving of notice, both in the botanical and zoological departments, we proceeded across the river, to the grounds of Prince Charles, still accompanied by M. Fintelman; they were laid out, principally, in the English style, his royal highness being particularly partial to it.

This spot consists of a great variety of surface, with several beautiful vistas, and is really very tastefully planted, and the grounds formed, and kept in very excellent order. The public road from Berlin to Potsdam passes close by the front of the grounds, and there is a low wall, with an invisible wire fence on the top of it, betwixt the road, where the views of the grounds are seen to most advantage. One side of them extends close to the Havel, where a handsome summer house is erected, which commands a fine prospect of Potsdam, the new bridge, and shipping, and likewise the scenery on the opposite side of the river, which is much varied. Under this building are two colonnades covered with creepers, which have a very pretty effect.

On the one side of a hill nearly opposite to this villa, is a new residence erecting for prince William; the views from it must be very extensive, as it is situated on a commanding spot.

We next proceeded to the magnificent edifice called Marmorpallast, or marble palace, which is situated at a very short distance from Potsdam, and close to the margin of the Havel. It is a splendid building, the greater part of which is constructed with marble. The cornice appeared to be about five or six feet deep; it is of white marble, as also is the base above the ground for several feet; the door and window jambs are likewise of the same material. The intervening spaces of the walls are built with red brick. The colonnade at the principal entrance consists of handsome marble columns. The pleasure-ground and gardens attached to it are said to contain two hundred and fifteen German acres of ground, throughout which are dispersed various clumps of trees and shrubs, with extensive walks and rides branching through it in different directions. These grounds are very flat, and have but little variety or picturesque appearance in them. The number of good exotics and New Holland plants is considerable, as well as a very fine collection of healthy orange trees, with some fine specimens of hardy trees growing singly on the grass. I here observed the Juglans fraxinifolia bearing a number of good sized fruit. In the flower garden some good German stocks, then in full bloom. The borders and grass lawn were in a rough state.

We next proceeded to Sans-souci, Mr. Cuming not having previously seen it. I was delighted in having another opportunity of looking round this truly magnificent spot; and being accompanied by Mr. Fintelman, who kindly devoted the entire day in conducting us to the various objects best worth our notice, we proceeded through the grounds attached to Sans-souci palace, and then to Charlottenhoff, the new palace, &c., and were much gratified by the numerous objects of interest we had pointed out to us in the various places that we inspected.

On our return to Potsdam, we went to the top of Breuchensberg, or hill of brewers, where a prospect tower is erected. The view from this spot is really grand in the extreme; we look down upon Potsdam and the numerous palaces that are in its environs. Sans-souci and the new palace are both prominent objects in view from this prospect; but the most pleasing features are the numerous small green islands that are formed by the river Havel, near the bridge at Potsdam; the intricacy and variety of outline of water, and the number of boats and small sailing vessels making their way to Berlin through this place, form a pleasing sight. The evening was now drawing to a close, and little more remained to be seen by daylight. M. Fintelman took his departure for the Island of Peacocks, and Mr. Cuming started in an hour after for Berlin. I was thus again left alone to muse over the different objects that had occupied my attention during the day.

August 31st. Not having previously seen the pine-apple forcing department, I walked out early this morning to Sans-souci, where this fruit is cultivated. I was rather surprised to find a great extent of low houses and pits devoted to the growth of the pine, without observing a single fruit amongst the whole stock that was scarcely worth cutting. There cannot be less than one thousand feet in length of houses and pits adapted to the pine-apple, and these varying from eight to twelve feet in width. The principal range was heated by smoke flues, and the plants plunged in saw-dust, with tan under; which practice is frequently adopted in this country, especially when tan is scarce. The young plants in the pits appeared pretty healthy, but such fruit as was fit for cutting, or advancing to maturity, would bear no comparison to our English produce.

After satisfying myself with what was to be seen in this department, I returned to Potsdam, from whence the diligence to Dresden, my next place of destination, did not start till twelve o'clock. The time I had to spare before my conveyance came up, was employed in inspecting the town, which consists, it is said, of 2000 houses, and 16,000 inhabitants. The streets are in general very clean; one leading from the palace to Sans-souci is inlaid with planks for the wheels of the different vehicles to run on, similar to the Russian manner. I also saw in the vicinity a Russian colony, which was inhabited by natives, sent as a present some years ago by the Emperor to the king of Prussia; they are now becoming pretty numerous, and their colony is extending.

Potsdam is intersected by various small canals, that lead from the Havel, and are very convenient for the conveyance of turf and other materials by water carriage. The greater number of the houses are handsomely built; there was then erecting opposite to the palace a magnificent church. At the other end of this palace is an iron bridge, crossing the Havel; the piers consist of stonework, there are eight arches, one of which is used as a drawbridge for the passing and repassing of boats going this way to Berlin. This town is the principal depot for military, who are exercised daily in great numbers in front of the palace.

At twelve o'clock the diligence arrived, when I took my departure in it for Dresden.

The road leading from Potsdam to the latter town was lined on each side with fine poplar trees, of a considerable size, for several miles of the journey. The soil in this part of the country appeared to be a light sandy loam: the plantations were chiefly composed of the Scotch fir; but close by the road side, in several places between Potsdam and Herzberg, were large quantities of plum trees, loaded with fruit.

We arrived at Herzberg at half-past ten o'clock; but owing to the darkness of the night I was unable to see, or form any opinion of the size of the town or quality of the houses.

September 1st. At three o'clock in the morning we reached another small town, called Elsterwerda, which was said to contain about 900 inhabitants. The next stage we came to was Grossenhayn, where we arrived at half-past five o'clock, a.m. This town is situated in the kingdom of Saxony, and contains nearly 5000 inhabitants. At this stage we were transferred to another diligence.

The country from Grossenhayn to Dresden is much more varied than any I had previously seen in Germany.

The scenery as we approach to Dresden is very picturesque, both as regards distant views and variety of surface: when within a few miles of the town, we meet with a very fine avenue of lime trees, extending for a considerable distance, and then is continued by horse-chesnuts. On descending a hill, a fine prospect of Dresden presents itself to the eye. The soil now appears more of a black colour, and less free from sand, than what I had previously observed. I also saw several beech trees intermixed with the Scotch-fir.

Arrived at Dresden, at nine o'clock a.m. After getting breakfast, I immediately proceeded to the house of Professor Hughes, who was then engaged, but Mrs. Hughes asked Mr. West to accompany me to the principal gardens; this gentleman, a school colleague of Lord Cosmo Russell, and an admirer of plants, very cheerfully accompanied me to several of the gardens in the vicinity of the town. We first proceeded to the Botanic Garden, belonging to the University, which is very limited in extent. I was however much pleased with the fine collection of Cacteæ that are grown in this establishment, as well as a large collection of Cape, and other green house plants. The number of species of hardy perennial plants in this small space of ground is truly astonishing; there is also a great variety of Cape bulbs and Gramineæ. The extent of glass is confined to a very long conservatory, stove, and several pits for Cacteæ.

Having been introduced by Mr. West to M. Lehman, the superintendant of the garden, he accompanied us to the gardens of Lieut. Weber, situated at a short distance from the town, and considered the most extensive for glass and space, of any about Dresden. I should imagine by its appearance there could not be above seven or eight English acres of ground under nursery culture. The collection of plants for sale comprises chiefly Camellias, young orange trees, Cape and new Holland plants, many of the scarcer sorts of which I observed had been lately introduced to that establishment, from Mr. Low's nursery at Clapton. A fine specimen of the Uhria speciosa was in great vigour of health. A great variety of dahlias, and dwarf China roses in full flower were in these grounds.

I was much pleased by the simple mode of grafting the Camellia and orange trees, which appeared to be very successful, and is generally practised by M. Liebig the gardener, which method is what we term in this country crown grafting; by this mode the shoot or graft, after insertion in the stock, is only tied neatly to the stock, with a bit of worsted thread, and then sealed over as well as the top of the stock, by a little bees-wax, (without clay as practised here); when this operation is completed, the plants are put into a frame or pit, with a little moist heat, until the graft and stock begin to coalesce, when they are shortly afterwards gradually exposed to the air of the greenhouse. In this establishment there are several very good hothouses for plants. In one of the ranges is placed a circular shaped conservatory, heated by hot water, on rather a novel construction; these hot water pipes being formed into perpendicular columns, rising from the floor to the height of from ten to twelve feet. These pipes, thus constructed, gave out a great command of heat, and answered the original intention very satisfactorily. The plants in this nursery garden were very well grown, and all in a healthy state.

I next visited the nursery of M. Hofrath Kreyssig, which is only a short distance from the Botanic garden. I saw likewise some good kinds of greenhouse plants, as well as many rare species of the Rhododendron tribe; the Rhododendron campanulatum, a fine specimen; a collection of orchideous plants is also forming in this nursery garden. There are several small hothouses for the growth of Cape and tropical plants, which are also cultivated for sale; but the space of ground is much too limited, as well as confined by houses to do justice to a collection of hardy species. After visiting these gardens and grounds, I took my leave of Mr. West, to whom I was much indebted for the kind interest he took in the object I had in view, and who appears devotedly attached to plants and gardening. Professor Hughes having recommended me to see the chateau erected on the banks of the Elbe by the late Lord Findlater, an English nobleman, I expected to have found some fine gardens, or collection of plants, but, to my surprise, on my arrival, I found it now occupied as a tea garden; it is much frequented by the inhabitants of Dresden, in consequence of its romantic situation on the banks of the Elbe, commanding a prospect of the country, studded with small villages situated in the valleys between the hills, or rather eminences; but these are not to be compared with our Scotch mountains. Along the Elbe is a great extent of vineyard, which did not appear to be in a very prolific state, the soil being of a poor sandy texture. Many pretty villas were also situated along these banks, which had very pleasant prospects from them.

September 2nd. Having agreed to meet Mr. Lehman early this morning, we proceeded to the Catholic church, which belongs to the court, and is certainly a magnificent building, the interior richly ornamented, and well worth the stranger's notice; we next visited the Protestant church, which is likewise a splendid erection. The museum and post office are also very magnificent buildings. I was however surprised at the appearance of the royal palace, which consists of a dark gloomy looking old fashioned residence, and with little in its exterior appearance, calculated to give a stranger the idea of its being the seat of royalty. Through the assistance of Mr. Lehman, who procured tickets of admittance to the gallery of paintings, I was favoured with a sight of this celebrated collection, which is considered to be amongst the finest in Europe, and is said to contain one thousand five hundred pictures; among so many there are undoubtedly some very splendid ones. On our return from the gallery, we passed through his majesty's coach-house, which must at least have contained no less than sixty different carriages; a very splendid one lately presented to the king by Prince Metternich, was pointed out to us. From hence we proceeded to the museum or repository of minerals, birds and animals. The collection of the feathered tribe in this establishment is particularly extensive; some very large blocks of petrified wood, that were much prized, were pointed out as remarkable curiosities. In one of the departments was a table four feet in diameter, of a solitary piece of wood of the Tamarindus indicus, (tamarind tree.) In front of the building various orange trees are arranged along the edge of the walks. What is called Bruehl's garden is also deserving of notice; it forms a public promenade for the inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated, containing a picture gallery, which is denominated the gallery of duplicates.

Dresden is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants, and is much admired for its fine houses and streets. It is considered by many as one of the finest towns in Europe; but I must confess that in my opinion it is inferior to either Berlin, Munich, or Brussels. It is situated on a flat spot of ground with the river Elbe running through it; the bridge over which is said to be 1450 feet long. The Arsenal is a large building, but I had no time to see it, as the diligence left this day at twelve o'clock for Munich, and as these conveyances only go twice or three times a week at most from the principal towns throughout Germany, the losing of an hour to see an object might detain one for two or three days. Having taken my leave of Mr. Lehman, I seated myself in the diligence for Munich, a journey which occupied us three days and three nights. The road winds along the river side from Dresden to the first stage on our way to Munich, and is very beautiful, the scenery much diversified, and resembling that of some of our Scotch mountains; the plantations of forest trees comprise a mixture of silver fir, beech and Scotch-fir. The hill and dale that continued for a considerable way along this line of road rendered the scenery very interesting and picturesque, and which appeared so to continue until it became quite dark, when all view of the country was lost.

We passed through Freyberg, a small town situated on the river Mulde, and is said to be 1179 feet above the level of the sea. The next town or village that we came to was Chimnitz, where we stopped for supper.

September 3rd. Arrived at one o'clock in the morning at Zwickau, at which town the road from Leipsic joins the one from Dresden, where the diligences from both towns meet, and the passengers are transferred from the Leipsic diligence to the one from Dresden. Whilst waiting for the vehicle getting ready to start, I was agreeably surprised to find Mr. Parker, seated at the same inn; he had arrived from Leipsic by that diligence: when we parted at Berlin we had no expectation of again meeting each other so soon.

One of my fellow travellers from Dresden was a Frenchman, but he was evidently as awkwardly situated whilst travelling for want of a knowledge of the German language as I was myself; consequently we both kept Mr. Parker pretty busy in acting as an intermediate interpreter whilst we were together.

The scenery about Zwickau is beautifully varied with hill and dale, and woods, with a small river called the Mulde running along by the bottom of the rocks. The houses are neatly built, and of considerable number, containing a population of from seven to eight thousand. The roads in the vicinity of this town are rather mountainous, but not so much so as in the preceding stages. The next small village that we passed through was Plauen, where we arrived about seven o'clock in the morning: it is said to contain about 700 inhabitants.

We next proceeded to Hof, where we arrived at ten o'clock, changed diligences, and had to stop for several hours before we could again get on our journey. On entering this town we passed by a large tea garden, situated on the side of a hill, at the bottom of which is a small river, that tends greatly to enliven the scenery. The town of Hof is in the kingdom of Bavaria, and the population is said to amount to 6,000, living in handsomely built houses. The main street that leads through it I should imagine is nearly a mile in length, and very wide; there appeared to be a fair in the town on this day, which occupied a great part of this street.

The cathedral is an ancient building; the entrance consists of a handsome Gothic door, the walls of which must be about eighteen feet in thickness. The town-hall is likewise a fine erection, and the houses and streets appeared all in clean and neat order.

From Dresden to Hof the country productions principally consist of agricultural produce; the potatoe and oats are extensively cultivated. A sharp frost this morning blackened all the potatoe tops.

At one o'clock we got into a Bavarian diligence, and proceeded to Berneck, a small town surrounded with beautiful scenery, that much reminded me of the Derbyshire rocks, to which in picturesque appearance it was fully equal.

Arrived next at Bayreuth, at eight o'clock in the evening; it is a town of considerable size, said to contain 10,000 inhabitants. On the diligence driving up to the inn door we found the space in front of it completely covered with a military band, and a large concourse of people listening to their music; this band belonged to a cavalry regiment that was on its march through the town. We next started for Nuremberg, where we arrived at half-past eight o'clock the following morning.

September 4th. On our arrival at Nuremberg, we found that we had to remain here for several hours before the diligence started again: we made the best use of our time, proceeding to St. Laurence's Church, a Gothic building, the doors and windows richly ornamented with groups of sculpture and other carved work in bronze; the painted glass is very handsomely executed. This church was begun in 1254 and is a most magnificent building. The tabernacle consists of a beautifully carved and richly ornamented spire, executed in 1496 of carved stonework. Although it has been converted into a Protestant church, yet the Catholic ornaments are still remaining. We next proceeded to view the Catholic church, which is likewise a very splendid Gothic building, erected in 1355, and the exterior walls richly ornamented. In the Market place, we were much gratified with a very pretty spiral fountain, richly carved, erected in 1356. The town-house is also a very fine old structure, containing many good paintings in the large and small hall. The fresco paintings in the latter apartment are beautifully executed on the ceilings and walls, which are also highly ornamented by gilt mouldings. The paintings in the great hall consist of various pieces of fresco, by the celebrated Albert Durer. The triumphal car of the emperor Maximilian, drawn by twelve horses, in beautiful fresco painting, and a very fair picture of the present king of Bavaria, by Byng of Munich, is also to be seen here.