Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835

From hence we went to the cathedral, in which is St. Sebald's Tomb, highly deserving of the stranger's notice. This church contains the oldest metal font in Germany; it was formerly used in baptising the emperor's children. The saint's tomb, by Fisher, is a masterpiece of workmanship, executed in 1508; there is also a curious figure of the artist himself. The tomb is a pretty Gothic structure, cast in bronze, and the body of the saint enclosed in a silver coffin, under an elegant Gothic canopy. We next proceeded to the picture gallery, which contains a good collection of paintings by German artists, in good preservation. From hence we went to the imperial castle, where there is growing a Lime tree, Tilia europæa, said to be seven hundred years old. I measured the girth of this tree, at four feet from the ground, and found it to be fifteen feet in circumference; it still appeared in a pretty healthy state.

The dining room in this ancient castle, formerly used by the king, is of large dimensions, and contains a large number of old paintings, which are in good preservation; the rooms although uninhabited for the last four hundred years are still in good condition. From the windows in this castle we have a beautiful prospect of the town as well as of a considerable extent of country. On our return from hence we visited the house in which Albert Durer resided, which is now converted into a gallery for modern paintings, exhibited for sale, many of which appeared to be most beautiful pieces of art, and objects of great interest to numerous visitors who were then present admiring them. By this time it was drawing near the hour we had to start by the diligence. We made the best of our way back to the hotel, and got all ready by one o'clock, the appointed hour of our departure from Nuremberg, which is a town of considerable size, containing a population of upwards of thirty thousand people.

In the environs are large tracts of ground under vegetable culture, but I was unable to learn of the existence of any botanic garden or good nursery establishment in the immediate neighbourhood. Large fields of tobacco were cultivated in the suburbs, as well as extensive plantations of the Hop, which appeared very prolific. The soil we passed from Nuremberg to Munich was more sandy than it previously had been; the scenery is also more flat and less varied than in our preceding stages.

Sept. 5. Arrived at Pfaffenhofen, at six o'clock in the morning. Near to this town large quantities of the Genista germanica, were growing close by the road-side, also the Dipsacus laciniatus, in great abundance. Approaching nearer to Munich, I observed growing in a plantation the Vaccinium Vitis Idæa, in great plenty, reminding me, from its occurrence, of the mountains of Scotland. The scenery in the vicinity of Munich, is of a great sameness, but the Tyrolese mountains appearing in the distance considerably add to its picturesque effect. We reached Munich at eleven o'clock, where we found some difficulty in getting apartments, the hotels being then so full of strangers.

In the afternoon I was accompanied by Mr. Parker to the Botanic garden, which is situated close to the town, having a very handsome entrance with Ionic columns, and neat iron railing, which encloses a large part of this garden. The Arboretum of trees and shrubs is confined to the two ends of the garden, it being an oblong square, but the south side is much the longest. The space of ground is very confined for the growth of large trees; the entire space devoted for this purpose is not an acre of ground, consequently the different sorts are much crowded together.

The interior of the garden, in front of the range of hot-houses, is laid out in numerous oblong squares, with gravel walks intervening; in the centre walk are three round basins of water. These squares are again divided into beds for the herbaceous plants, wherein a good collection are cultivated. In one of the divisions there is an aquarium for aquatic plants, which consists of oblong square troughs, lined with brickwork for retaining the water; these are about two feet wide by two deep, and an intervening space of ground, of from six to eight feet, in which are grown such species as do not require the water: but a damp situation, notwithstanding, is requisite: In the apartments where the hardy perennial plants are cultivated, are numerous apple trees, all in full bearing; these ought to be eradicated and their places supplied with ornamental trees or shrubs. Apple-trees, however useful, are not in character with a botanical collection; more especially as the apple is so common by the road sides through Germany; a collection of this fruit should find a place elsewhere than in the botanic garden, where the space of ground is already much too limited for the collection of plants. A lofty range of hothouses about five hundred feet in length, has a very good effect; they are only furnished with upright sashes in the front, the back and roof opaque, the latter finished in the semi-cove form, and neatly plastered. I was surprised to find the Palms looking remarkably healthy, notwithstanding these dark houses, many of the species had really grown from twenty to twenty five feet in height.

The collection of the Brazilian species is very numerous, but many of them appeared drawn and too much crowded for want of light and room in the pits. The Cape and New Holland kinds were then out of doors, very healthy and well grown. I was much pleased also with some very fine specimens of Cacteæ, the variety of which is reckoned but little inferior to that of Berlin. In short, there is an extensive assortment of the various species of Succulentæ in this establishment. The director, M. Seitz, having been long a collector, has succeeded in forming a great variety of this curious tribe; he was extremely liberal in parting with any of his duplicates.

Sept. 6th. M. Seitz having the kindness to accompany us to the Royal gardens at Nymphenburg, which are situated about four English miles from Munich; we proceeded thither immediately after breakfast, and found that these grounds required no little time to make even a hasty inspection.

The French garden in front of the palace consists of straight and broad gravel walks, with long stripes of grass lawn, and borders about twelve feet wide of shrubs running parallel to the avenues of horse-chesnut trees. Along the edges of the walks various vases and other ornamental sculpture are arranged; leading from these walks, a straight piece of water, more in the form of a canal, than an ornamental lake, runs parallel in two different directions; the one parallel to the palace, is crossed by two wooden bridges, which are prominent features from several points of view. The centre, or main canal, leads in a straight direction for a considerable distance, and is broken by several very pretty cascades, and handsome marble basins, as well as different groups or figures of sculpture. The water comes rushing over the marble ledges with great force, and was certainly the brightest and purest that I had ever previously seen. There are also some very fine jets in which the water is propelled to a great height by machinery. A well formed lake nearly adjoins the bathing house, said to occupy about fifty Bavarian acres of ground, the outline of which is much varied with different projections of land, islands, and the banks of turf tastefully planted with trees and shrubs, forms a very pleasing contrast. A curious bark is placed on this sheet of water, consisting of two small boats, with a platform, on which is placed a chair, so that a person may sit and read, or fish, and at the same time guide this boat by his feet, that are resting generally on the paddles.

Close by the margin of this lake, is a very pretty circular temple, with a figure of Apollo, that forms a prominent object from several points of view. A small cascade passing under a ledge of rockwork, on the top of which is placed a marble figure of Pan, and a goat at his feet, forms another object of interest in this part.

The grounds from the south west of the bathing house, (or Pavilion, which is ornamented by paintings and statues) have been lately much improved, and are now considerably varied with different clumps of trees and shrubs, undulations and rockwork. The surface is naturally a flat, but art has, during the last three years, created great inequalities and alterations in this part of the grounds; the banks and undulations are very judiciously formed, the trees and shrubs tastefully grouped together; the walks and rides are of great extent, and very neatly kept and gravelled.

The range of plant houses at Nymphenburg is the most extensive and substantially built of any that I had previously seen in Germany, about one thousand feet in length, and varying from twenty to twenty four feet in width, the height not exceeding twenty-eight feet. I was here surprised to find that the hothouse in which a fine collection of Palmæ, and other Brazilian plants were grown, was heated by very small hot water pipes, which I imagined were far too small to sustain the temperature of such a house, although the back and roof are opaque, and of course require considerably less artificial heat than if constructed with glass on all sides. The boiler that heats this house is about seven feet long, three deep, and three feet six inches wide, and consequently contains a large body of water, when once heated it gives out a great portion of caloric from its sides and surface, being placed at the back of the house, but in the interior, and concealed by the plants. The pipes branch right and left from the boiler and appeared to be only two inches in diameter, yet, I was informed, they were found quite sufficient for the heating of this conservatory. Undoubtedly the boiler being so very large rendered pipes of greater dimensions unnecessary. The frost is, however, much more intense in Germany than in England; the Lauristinus, Arbutus, Rhododendrons, Portugal and Common Laurel, were cultivated at Nymphenburg as green-house plants; they are too tender to endure the winters there.

In front of this botanical range, or more directly opposite to the palm house, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, but the site, for that purpose, is badly chosen, and by far too contracted, and should have been selected in the pleasure ground, at some distance from these houses, where there is ample space, and would have formed an interesting feature. As at present the more common kinds of trees and underwood are the only hardy species of decoration in many parts of the ground. Opposite to the east end of the range of plant houses is an oblong piece of ground, laid out in narrow beds by the edge of the walks, which are occupied with a collection of dahlias, and other herbaceous flowering plants.

On our return from this botanical range we visited a small private garden, close by the palace, which has also a very pretty cascade at its extremity, and ornamented by sculpture.

The palace of Nymphenburg forms almost a semicircle of a large radius on the Munich side, or principal front, but that facing the gardens is more of an oblong square, and in consequence of the numerous roofs appearing from the semicircular front, that are disconnected and of various elevation from the main building, it has more the appearance of a number of small villas, than of a royal residence, particularly as we approach it from Munich, by the side of the straight canal that leads to the principal entrance. Nearly opposite the centre of the palace on this side is a circuitous basin of water with a fountain in the centre and rockwork around it. This water is conveyed into the gardens, and must be of great extent from the appearance of the course it was running, which leads a considerable way towards Munich. After our return from Nymphenburg gardens, we proceeded to the English garden, which is said to contain about five hundred English acres of ground, and is a favorite promenade for the inhabitants of Munich. This park, or pleasure ground, is rather of a flat surface, but much diversified by clumps of various trees and shrubs, and fine sheets of water, the margins of which are much varied, but unfortunately full of weeds. The drives and walks that lead through these grounds in different directions are very extensive, some of them being nearly five miles in length. The grounds adjacent to the queen's palace are very well kept, and deserving of notice; but a piece of water in view from it is very filthy, which is the more extraordinary, as it might be easily kept clean by turning into it a branch of the river that runs through these grounds.

We observed some very fine specimens of the Juglans fraxinifolia with fruit on them, and very large trees of the Salix alba, which were here in greater size than any I had ever seen. Numerous clumps of various kinds of trees and shrubs are grouped together; but these are in most instances rather crowded, and not enough of lawn is seen to intervene between them. A handsome observatory was erecting, situated on an artificial mound, which, when finished, will command a fine prospect over these grounds. We also visited several of the churches. St. Mary's church is very splendidly fitted up, and has handsome marble columns. In it is placed a very superior statue of Eugene Beauharnois. St. Michael's church is likewise deserving of notice from the beautiful marble columns. The choirs of the different churches were this day all decorated with Orange trees, Hydrangeas, and other flowering plants.

Sept. 7th. I appointed to be in the Botanic gardens with M. Seitz, by eight o'clock in the morning. Immediately on my arrival I met with Mr. Forster, nephew to the vice president of the Linnean Society, who is also much attached to botany. The greater part of the day was spent with M. Seitz, looking over the numerous species of Cacteæ, and Succulentæ, and after having finished my visit here, he had the kindness to conduct me to the Glyptothek, which is a very magnificent quadrangular building, containing a fine collection of antique sculpture; the floors and walls are inlaid with various marbles, the ceilings richly ornamented with gilt mouldings, and fresco paintings. It has twelve apartments, one of which is devoted to modern sculpture, and possesses some fine specimens in this art.

I next proceeded to the Pinakothek, which is situated at a short distance from the Glyptothek, and is likewise a very splendid building, but it is not yet finished. It is intended as a repository for paintings, and consists of a number of very capacious apartments with gilt ceilings of extraordinary splendour. The suite of rooms is said to be 500 feet in length, and on the south side is a long passage or gallery, the ceiling of which is ornamented with fine fresco paintings. The exterior of this Pinakothek is equally magnificent, and when finished will undoubtedly be one of the most attractive objects in Europe.

Sept. 8th. This being a holiday and inclined to rain, we visited the royal palace, which is at present undergoing great alterations and additions. The first object that attracted my notice, was the granite steps of the king's staircase, which measured twenty one feet in width; at the top is the body guard room, and then an inner ante-room, the walls of which are beautifully ornamented with fresco paintings, as is likewise the adjoining room, in which are represented as though suspended from the ceiling and cornice, fresco painting of numerous fishes.

The family dining room, with cove ceiling and fresco paintings, and most beautiful inlaid floor, must attract general admiration. The throne room is however still more capacious, and the walls are ornamented by various alto-relievos in plaster. I observed in several of the windows that the squares of glass used were five feet long by three feet in width. His majesty's cabinet is also splendidly fitted up. The apartments intended for the queen are still more superbly finished, and represent subjects in fresco painting taken from the German poets.

The surbase of her majesty's room is of fine marble; the room is about forty feet square, the dressing room of rather larger dimensions. The queen's throne room is really most splendidly finished, the walls and mouldings gilt, and the surbase of fine blue marble. There are several other apartments intended for her majesty, representing in fresco paintings various subjects from the poems of Burgher; with the pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre in fresco. The grand staircase is most magnificent; the walls and steps are of fine marble, with four Ionic marble columns at the top, the whole furnished in the most superb style. The lower suite of apartments is equally splendid; the walls are decorated with paintings in fresco of several of the emperors of Germany. The magnificence of the decorations on the walls and ceilings of the new apartments in this palace are such that no one can form any idea of their grandeur without a visit.

Adjoining to this, is the statue gallery of antiquities, which measures about three hundred and thirty six feet in length, by forty five in width, with a cove ceiling painted in fresco. I here saw a beautiful Florentine Mosaic table, for which Napoleon offered sixteen thousand florins. There is also a Bavarian almanack of the fifteenth and sixteenth century, in form of a circular table, about seven feet in diameter, inlaid with brass; but the letters and figures almost obliterated. The entrance to this antique gallery consists of a handsome grotto in shell work, with various figures, birds, and devices, in alto-relievo.

There is placed opposite the new addition to the palace a colossal figure in bronze of the late emperor, with a huge lion at his feet. Near this palace is a magnificent Post-office, now building. There is also the Theatre, which is likewise a very splendid structure. We next visited the Gallery of Paintings, which is well deserving of notice, and contains a very valuable collection of pictures. The space of ground called the Hof Garden, which is a fashionable promenade, and consists of numerous rows of trees and gravel walks, is bounded on one side by a very long gallery, highly ornamented with various frescos. Although denominated a garden, I could see neither flowers nor shrubs; only rows of trees, that formed a shady promenade in the summer months, when it is much frequented by tea-parties.

In the afternoon we made another visit to the English garden, and round the environs of the town; but this being a holiday, all the principal establishments were shut. I was however unable to hear of there being any other garden establishment worth seeing, that I had not previously seen: we therefore procured our passports, and secured our places in the diligence for Stuttgard.

Sept. 9th. Left Munich at six o'clock a.m. The scenery for the first stage was rather flat, but as we approached Augsburg it became considerably more varied. By the side of the road on this route I observed the Gentiana Pneumonanthe, in great abundance; I here had an opportunity of collecting several specimens, whilst the diligence was ascending a long hill, which was well planted, and where some fine trees of the spruce fir were in view.

The houses in Augsburg have old-fashioned red tiled roofs, with numerous windows projecting like skylights, even five rows deep on the sides, in very bad taste. Augsburg contains 27,000 inhabitants; and several ancient buildings, particularly the Episcopal palace, Cathedral, and Town-hall. The Cathedral, a Gothic building, contains some curious old tapestry and paintings, representing the apostles sleeping whilst our Saviour was praying. There are also some curious old tombs, with models; and several handsome fonts with large bronze figures. The Town-house, which contains a picture gallery over the ground floor, is a very fine building; the gallery where the paintings are kept is 120 feet long, 62 feet wide, and 56 feet high, with a carved wood ceiling, richly gilt. The pictures were many of them of immense dimensions, and in fine preservation, but of the old German school. We here also visited the German Literary Gazette printing-office, and also the steam engine which is used for throwing up the water to supply the different fountains in the town.

Whilst Mr. Parker was making purchases of books here, I proceeded to the garden of M. Schatzle, which is situated in the suburbs. This garden is very well kept, and contains some good exotic and Cape plants, and a good shew of summer flowers, with several straight avenues of trees planted so as to form an arbour or shady walk. In this garden is placed a colossal group in bronze that weighs 10,500 pounds, executed by Chirardi in honour of Fugger. The first of the Fugger family was an Augsburg merchant, and is said to have left his heirs above six millions of golden crowns, besides other property. From thence I proceeded to the nursery of M. Schultz, which contains vegetables as well as nursery stock: there are two or three small hothouses, or rather pits, for the growth of the tender species, but I saw but little in this establishment worth notice, although considered the best nursery garden about Augsburg.

It was now drawing near the hour that we were to take our departure from Augsburg in the diligence; whence we started at 7 o'clock p.m. for Ulm, the next town of any note.

I omitted to mention that we were accompanied through the different departments in Augsburg by the French gentleman who travelled with us from Dresden to Munich, and also by Mr. Withy, who was returning from a tour, and going then to Heidelberg; he travelled with us as far as Stuttgard, where we all parted.

Sept. 10th. Arrived at Ulm at half-past four o'clock in the morning. This is a pretty town, situated on the left bank of the Danube, in the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and is said to contain 23,000 inhabitants. We stopped here about an hour.

The first stage beyond Ulm consists of a fine agricultural district. The second stage presented rocky and fine scenery, planted with hard wood, the birch and beech trees intermixed, but the latter sort pre-hills on both sides, which is particularly picturesque, and surpasses the much admired Matlock scenery, for many miles. When we arrived at Geislingen we had time to admire the huge rocks peeping out amongst the trees opposite this village, where there is also a very fine prospect tower, which overlooks the town, and great extent of country. I observed, growing on the banks of Geislingen glen, the Asclepius vincetoxicum, Helleborus officinalis, and several other scarce plants.

Along this country numerous orchards of fruit trees prevailed, such as plums, pears, and the apple, which were very abundant, all growing close by the road side and full of fruit.

The road through Geislingen to Goppingen is very beautiful, being a great vineyard country for many miles, commencing about Plockingen, and extending along the face of the hills to Stuttgard. We passed through an old fashioned town called Esslingen, which is situated on the Necker, a river that heightens in a great degree the beauty of the whole valley along which it winds.

Cobbett's corn appears to be extensively cultivated in this district, particularly near to Stuttgard, where we arrived at six o'clock in the evening. Here I lost all my travelling companions, Mr. Parker starting for Frankfort immediately, and Mr. Withy the following morning for Heidelberg; both which towns I afterwards visited.

Sept. 11th. M. Hertz, who has a small nursery garden in Stuttgard, and whom I had previously seen in Kew gardens, very kindly volunteered to accompany me to the Royal Botanic Gardens here, which are situated at a short distance from the palace, and contain a number of old hothouses, and a good collection of plants in a very healthy state. In short, I was surprised to see the plants looking so healthy in such old worn out opaque roofed houses.

There are also cultivated here many very fine specimens of the Cacteæ. I saw one of the Cacteæ senilis above eighteen inches long, a very fine healthy plant. The Echinocactus cornigerus measured about six inches in circumference, and some other kinds were also nearly as fine.

The pleasure ground belonging to this palace contains about two hundred and sixty German acres; it is tastefully planted, and laid out in numerous drives and rides, forming a pleasant promenade for the public.