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When it comes to meat, even the most coarse cuts of meat can be transformed into meltingly soft, flavoursome delights! All you need is time and a few additional ingredients and the magic of slow cooking will do the rest.
To get the most from any cut of meat it must be ‘fit for purpose’ or cooked appropriately. Lean, fine-grained cuts respond well to fast, high-temperature cooking, while tougher cuts with more connective tissue need long, slow cooking to make them tender.
For me, knowing how to use and get the best from a whole carcass is something that every carnivorous cook should know about. You’ll get the best, most varied eating experience, but vitally it makes the best economic sense – for cooks, butchers and farmers alike.
Generally the slow cook cuts come from the parts of the animal that have to work the hardest – the forequarter (neck, belly, shoulders) and the legs. These tough, sinewy muscles will taste dreadful if they are not cooked correctly, but so too would the finest fillet of beef. Using a moist method of cooking, or cooking these cuts in some well-seasoned liquid – whether it is stock, wine or even water – will work wonders. The liquid will encourage the muscles to relax their tough structure, and the gelatine that this process produces will, in turn, flavour the liquid to make wonderful gravy. Not only do these cuts present tremendous value for money, but they also taste great. It is also worth considering that cuts labelled ‘stewing’ will usually take longer to tenderise than those labelled ‘braising’.
Dried beans still need to be soaked overnight before slow cooking. Dried red kidney beans must also be boiled for at least 10 minutes and drained before cooking to remove their dangerous toxins. Other pulses – such as lentils and canned beans – can be used directly, but will break up with a very extended period of cooking.
Pasta and rice should be added to moist, saucy recipes in the slow cooker about 30–50 minutes before the end of cooking. Baked pasta and risotto dishes also work very well (see Easy Mushroom and Parma Ham Lasagne and Tomato and Rocket Risotto for some great ideas).
Dairy products such as milk, cheese, cream and yoghurt tend to break down in the slow cooker after prolonged cooking (over 6 hours). However, they can be used either for a shorter period of time or stirred in at the end (the last hour) of cooking to finish a dish.
1 Light dishes
Spinach and Lentil Soup
Spinach and lentil soup
PREPARATION TIME: 15 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 3–4 HOURS
SERVES 4
This colourful, hearty soup is packed with flavour. You can use either chicken or vegetarian stock.
75g (3oz) brown or green lentils
Olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 red onion, peeled and finely diced
1 celery stick, trimmed and finely diced
1 × 400g (14oz) tin chopped tomatoes
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf, broken
2 litres (3½ pints) stock
125g (4½oz) baby spinach leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil or basil oil, for drizzling
Wash the lentils in cold water and drain thoroughly. Pour in 1–2mm (1/16in) of olive oil to cover the base of the slow cooker dish.
Using your thumb, press the garlic firmly to bruise it, then add it to the dish. Add the lentils and mix to coat in the oil. Add the onion, celery, tomatoes and herbs and mix together. Don’t season the soup at this stage, as salt will toughen the lentils. Pour the stock over the lentils. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 3–4 hours or until the lentils are tender.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic and herbs. Mix the spinach into the soup and stir until the leaves are just wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Ladle the soup into warm bowls and drizzle with a touch of extra virgin olive oil or basil oil before serving with ciabatta.
FAB FOR THE FREEZER
Leave to cool before transferring to freezerproof containers and freezing for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly before reheating gently on the hob (never in the slow cooker).
Spicy celeriac and apple soup
PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 4 HOURS
SERVES 6
VEGETARIAN
I absolutely love celeriac raw in salads and remoulade, but here it really benefits from long slow cooking, which coaxes out its characteristic nutty flavour. The warming spices of the curry paste and the tart apple also work well to complete this easy soup.
1 large celeriac, about 1.5kg (3lb 50z), peeled (about 1.3kg/2lb 13oz peeled weight) and cut into 3cm (1¼in) chunks
1 large onion, peeled and cut into 3cm (1¼in) chunks
1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and diced
Juice of 1 lemon
2 vegetable stock cubes
1 tbsp medium curry paste
1 litre (1¾) pints) boiling water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the celeriac and onion chunks in the slow cooker dish. Add the diced apple, then pour over the lemon juice and toss together until everything is coated in the juice.
Place the stock cubes and curry paste into a large measuring jug, then pour over the boiling water and stir to dissolve the cubes. Pour this mixture over the celeriac and top up with more boiling water if the vegetables and apple are not covered with liquid (otherwise the apple with turn brown). Cover with the lid and cook on high for 4 hours or until the vegetables are completely tender.
Remove the slow cooker dish from the heated base and place it on a heatproof surface. Blitz the soup with a hand-held blender until completely smooth (or blend in batches in a food processor). Add more hot stock if you like your soup thinner. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
I ALSO LIKE …
making this soup with parsnips instead of celeriac.
Chicken and lemon soup
PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 6½–8½ HOURS
SERVES 4
Slow cooking the chicken on the bone before adding it to the soup gives it a wonderful flavour.
750g (1lb 10oz) chicken wings
1 celery stick, trimmed and finely diced
1 leek, trimmed and finely diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 fresh lemon thyme sprig, plus extra to garnish (or use 1 ordinary thyme sprig)
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon (preferably unwaxed)
1 large potato, peeled and cut into small 1cm (½in) cubes
3 tbsp double cream
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken wings, celery, leek, garlic, thyme and lemon zest and juice into the slow cooker dish and mix well. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 2 hours, stirring halfway through cooking.
After 2 hours, carefully pour enough boiling water into the slow cooker dish to cover the chicken and stir to combine. Cover with the lid again and cook on low for a further 4–6 hours (the longer the better).
Strain the chicken and vegetables through a sieve into a large saucepan. Pick over the chicken, discarding any skin or bone but saving the meat, and add the meat to the pan. Bring to the boil over a high heat, skimming with a slotted spoon to remove any remaining skin, sinew or bits of vegetable that have escaped the straining process.
Add the potato to the soup and simmer for 10 minutes or until the potato is tender. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately sprinkled with a few lemon thyme leaves.
I ALSO LIKE …
to use baby pasta or risoni (a type of pasta that looks like large grains of rice, used in soups, salads, stews, stuffings, etc.) instead of potato in this soup.
Thai pumpkin soup
PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 3 HOURS
SERVES 4–6
Butternut squash or pumpkin tastes great in Thai recipes. Here it makes a comforting, smooth soup, which is great for everyday food or as a starter when entertaining.
1.5kg (3lb 5oz) butternut squash or pumpkin, peeled, deseeded and cut into chunks
1 red onion, peeled and diced
2.5cm (1in) piece fresh root ginger, peeled and grated
1–2 tsp red Thai curry paste, or to taste
1 litre (1¾ pints) hot vegetable stock
150ml (5fl oz) coconut milk
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tbsp fish sauce, or to taste
1 tbsp demerara sugar
Fresh coriander leaves, to garnish
Place the butternut squash or pumpkin in the slow cooker dish together with the onion, ginger and curry paste and mix well until the pumpkin is coated. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 2 hours or until the squash is really tender. Remove the slow cooker dish from the base, but leave the slow cooker switched on.
Place the squash or pumpkin and any cooking juices into a food processor and blitz, adding a little of the hot stock to loosen the mixture, until smooth. Gradually add the remaining stock.
Return the mixture to the slow cooker dish and add the coconut milk, lime juice and fish sauce. Place the dish back onto the heated base and replace the lid. Cook for 1 hour or until hot.
Season the soup with more fish sauce and the sugar to taste. Ladle into warm bowls and sprinkle with coriander leaves before serving.
I ALSO LIKE …
cooking this recipe to the end of paragraph 1 and then mixing the squash or pumpkin cubes with all the other ingredients except the stock. It’s great heated through and served with rice noodles.
Split pea and ham soup
PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING
COOKING TIME: 2–3 HOURS
SERVES 4
This easy soup is very warming and tasty – perfect for a cold day or if you’re in need of some real comfort food.
2 tbsp olive oil
2 leeks, white part only, diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
500g (1lb 2oz) green split peas, soaked overnight and drained
2 litres (3½ pints) chicken or vegetable stock
2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
50g (2oz) ham, finely shredded
Pour the olive oil into the slow cooker dish, then mix in the leeks, garlic, drained split peas and stock.
Cover with the lid and cook on high for 1 hour. Remove the lid and skim off and discard any froth from the surface with a slotted spoon. Mix the soup well, then cover again and cook for a further 1–2 hours or until the peas are tender.
Ladle the soup into serving bowls and top with the parsley and shredded ham. Serve with hot buttered toast.
I ALSO LIKE …
replacing the ham with hot, crispy bacon pieces.
Mixed mushroom and herb bruschetta
PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 4 HOURS
SERVES 4
VEGETARIAN
Mushrooms love being slow cooked! The gentle process seems to maximise of their flavour. Use really fresh mushrooms to make the most of their texture and to prevent the mixture from becoming too brown.
500g (1lb 2oz) mixed mushrooms, such as button, cup, Portabella or whatever is in season, wiped clean and cut into large wedges or thick slices
50g (2oz) chilled butter, cut into cubes
2 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon (preferably unwaxed)
1 garlic clove, peeled
4 tbsp finely chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, mint and chives, plus extra to garnish
50g (2oz) creamy Italian cheese, such as Taleggio or Dolcelatte, crumbled
8 bruschetta slices or slices of ciabatta
Place the mushrooms in the slow cooker dish (you need to have enough to cover the base of the dish thickly). Add the butter, olive oil, 1 teaspoon of salt, lemon zest and juice.
Cut the garlic clove in half lengthways and finely chop one of the pieces. Add this to the mushrooms and mix everything together well. Cover with the lid and cook on low for about 4 hours or until the mushrooms are tender and much of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the herbs and cheese, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
About 5–10 minutes before the end of cooking, toast the bread until golden, then rub the cut side of the reserved garlic over the toast. Spoon the hot mushroom mixture over the toast and sprinkle with more herbs to garnish.
I ALSO LIKE …
to toss these creamy mushrooms through hot pasta.
Easy chicken liver pâté
PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 2¼ HOURS
MAKES 500G (1LB 2OZ) PÂTÉ
I’m a real fan of liver pâté, and it’s so economical to make! I like a smooth pâté, but if you prefer, simply process for less time to make a coarse version. This pâté will keep in the fridge for about a week and also freezes really well for a month.
400g (14oz) fresh chicken livers, rinsed and drained
1 tbsp butter, plus extra for greasing
1 small onion, peeled and finely diced
50g (2oz) dried natural breadcrumbs
2 tbsp double cream
2 tbsp Marsala or brandy (optional)
125g (4½ oz) pork mince
2 fresh sage leaves
1 fresh thyme sprig, leaves only
A small pinch of mace
Pick over the livers, trimming any membranes away. Butter a small loaf tin or ovenproof dish that will fit into your slow cooker dish.
Melt the remaining butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and sweat for about 5 minutes or until soft. Remove from the heat and add the breadcrumbs, cream and Marsala or brandy. Set aside for about 5 minutes.
Place the onion, soaked breadcrumbs and all the other ingredients except for one of the sage leaves in a food processor and blitz until it reaches your preferred consistency. Place one of the sage leaves, attractive side down, into the bottom of the prepared tin or dish, then spoon the pâté mixture over the top and level the surface. Cover with a double layer of buttered foil.
Place the tin or dish in the slow cooker dish and carefully pour enough boiling water around the outside to come about one-third of the way up the sides of the tin or dish. Cover with the lid and cook on high for about 2 hours or until firm to the touch. Remove the tin or dish from the slow cooker and leave to cool completely before unwrapping and turning out. Cut into slices and serve with hot toast.
Balsamic beetroot and orange salad
Balsamic beetroot and orange salad
PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 4–5 HOURS
SERVES 4
VEGETARIAN
This classic combination of flavours is always a winner in our house.
4 raw beetroots, scrubbed
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
3 oranges
50ml (1¾fl oz) balsamic vinegar
50ml (1¾fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
A small handful of fresh mint leaves
1 tbsp finely diced shallot
150g (5oz) mixed salad leaves, such as lamb’s lettuce or baby leaves
200g (7oz) soft goat’s cheese, crumbled
50g (2oz) walnut pieces
Trim the roots and green leafy tops from the beetroot, cut them into chunky wedges and place into the slow cooker dish together with the garlic, finely grated zest and juice from one of the oranges, the vinegar and half the olive oil. Cover with the lid and cook on low for 4–5 hours or until tender. Leave to cool completely in the slow cooker.
Using a serrated knife, cut the top and bottom from the remaining oranges. Place them on a board and slice off the peel in downward strips, being careful to remove the pith as well. Then hold one orange in your hand over a small bowl and cut each segment of orange away by cutting between the membranes. Allow the segments and any juice to collect in the bowl.
Finely shred half of the mint leaves. Add the remaining olive oil, chopped mint, shallot and salt and pepper to the orange segments and set aside.
Place the salad leaves on a large platter. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beetroot from its cooking liquid and scatter over the salad. Drizzle over the orange segments and dressing, then scatter with the remaining mint, the goat’s cheese and walnuts to serve.
COOKING CONVENTIONALLY?
Wrap the prepared beetroot in foil and cook in an oven preheated to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4, for 2–3 hours or until tender.
Braised lentil salad
PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 3 HOURS
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN SALAD
VEGETARIAN
This simple, rustic salad is packed with flavour and is utterly moreish. It’s great on its own with crusty bread or equally at home as an accompaniment to meat, especially lamb.
4–6 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
250g (9oz) Umbrian or brown lentils, rinsed and drained
1 celery stick, trimmed and finely diced
2 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves only
