The Savvy Shopper

Artisan breads made with traditionally milled flour at this wholesale bakery, established by Jamie Oliver.

Hobbs House Bakery Ltd, Unit 6, Chipping Edge Industrial Estate,Hatters Lane, Chipping Sodbury, Bristol BS37 6AATel: 01454 321629www.hobbshousebakery.co.uk

Award-winning bakery specialising in organic breads. Mail order available.

Judges Bakery, 51 High Street, Hastings Old Town,East Sussex TN34 3ENTel: 01424 722588

Josephine Fairley and Craig Sams (the founders of Green & Black chocolate), together with an award-winning baker, recently opened this bakery specialising in slow, overnight-leavened breads of every type from rough Granary to French baguettes.

Lighthouse Bakery, 64 Northcote Road, London SWII 6QLwww.lighthousebakery.co.ukTel: 0207 228 4537

Small, traditional bakery run by Rachel Duffield and Elizabeth Weisberg (who bakes the bread). Several speciality loaves, including an outstanding sourdough and interesting breads from all over Europe.

Long Crichel Bakery Ltd, Long Crichel, Wimborne,Dorset BH21 5JUTel: 01258 830852www.longcrichelbakery.co.uk

Organic breads and cakes baked in a specially built wood-fired oven in a converted stable. Sourdough breads and English breads using traditional craft skills are specialities.

McPhies Bakery, 1527 Shettleston Road, Glasgow,Strathclyde G32 9ASTel: 0141 778 4732

Traditional craft breads made with stoneground flour.

Neal’s Yard Bakery, 6 Neal’s Yard, London WC2H 9DPTel: 020 7836 5199

Wonderful sourdough breads to match the amazing Neal’s Yard cheeses.

Poilâne, 46 Elizabeth Street, London WIW 9PATel: 020 7808 4910www.poilane.fr

The London branch of a Parisian bakery started by Pierre Poilâne in 1932. Signature breads are their huge wheels of stoneground wheat sourdough, rye bread and dense fruit bread. The large loaves can be sliced or cut and bought by weight. Mail order available.

St John Bread and Wine, Spitalfields, 94-96 Commercial Street,London EI 6LZTel: 020 7247 8724www.stjohnbreadandwine.com

Huge, truly rustic, traditionally made loaves from Fergus Henderson’s charismatic bakery.

Staff of Life Bakery, 2 Berrys Yard, off Finkle Street,Kendal LA9 4ABTel: 01539 738606

Artisan breads made by a true craft-bread enthusiast using local, traditionally milled flour. During the season there is a damson sourdough using the fermented yeast of the fruit, sourced from the Lyth Valley. Also, ask for his snail-decorated loaves. Home delivery available.

True Loaf Bakery, Mount Pleasant Windmill, Kirton-in-Lindsey,North Lincolnshire DN2I 4NHTel: 01652 640177www.trueloafbakery.co.uk

Thirty different breads made from organic wheat flour, wheat seed and malt flours traditionally milled on the premises.

BREAKFAST CEREAL

So what would you and the rest of the family like for breakfast? A tablespoon of refined white sugar, a few vitamin pills, a couple of grams of salt—oh yes, and some milled grain? The latter on its own would be better. A bowl of oats needs little embellishment but this great and simple idea has given birth to an extended family of hybrid cereal breakfasts: quick to prepare, easy to store and supposedly good for you. But are they? Why do they need added vitamins and salt and why so much sugar? Packaging that is super attractive to children, free gifts and chocolate-coated goodies inside have made some cereals the X-rated, top-shelf mag of food. One to keep out of the reach of children…

When I buy breakfast cereal, am I buying a health food?

Don’t be dazzled by the ‘fortified with vitamins’ statement on the pack; it is spin. The vitamins are added because much of the goodness is lost when milling the grain (see Flour, page 181).

Is muesli a better option?

The original Bircher muesli is a great option. Soak oats and almond slivers in a mixture of water, milk and lemon juice overnight, then in the morning add grated apple (or other fresh fruit) and serve with honey. Substitute yoghurt for the milk, if you wish. Be wary of some modern commercial mueslis, though, which can contain added sugar, and even chocolate. Those packed with masses of nuts and dried fruits can also have quite a high calorie count. They are at least wholefoods, though, and are a better option than many of the sugary milled cereals on offer.

Why is salt added to breakfast cereals?

Because many of those grains have no flavour, thanks to the total removal during milling of the outer layers of grains that provide their fibre and their flavour – the germ in wheat, for example. Grains such as maize have very little flavour anyway. Kellogg’s cornflakes were judged by the National Food Alliance to be nearly as salty as seawater and to contain 0.87g of salt per serving, which is nearly a third of a three-year-old’s daily allowance. A high-salt diet is said to be a cause of high blood pressure, heart attacks and kidney failure and has even been linked to stomach cancer, asthma and osteoporosis.

Why so much sugar?

It is inexplicable why some cereals need to be coated or glued together with something as pointless as refined white sugar but most brands contain between 30 and 50 per cent. Take Quaker Sugar Puffs: the box says ‘nutritious’ and ‘fortified with vitamins and iron’, but this breakfast cereal contains 35 per cent sugar, nearly two teaspoons of sugar in every 30g serving. Surely the manufacturers are not trying to lure children into pestering parents for sugary breakfasts rather than wholefood ones? Sugary cereals give the breakfaster a burst of energy, which quickly diminishes, leaving no other nutritional benefit.

Which breakfast cereals are low in sugar?

Of course, pure oats and bran don’t contain any sugar. Of the manufactured brands, Shredded Wheat has no added sugar and Weetabix and Rice Krispies are low in sugar. While sugar is an obvious addition to cereals such as Frosties and Frosted Shreddies, it is also added to some of the more ‘natural-looking’ cereals, including Kellogg’s cornflakes and Cheerios. The Food Commission has criticised Nestlé for the high sugar and salt content of most of its cereals.

Are there chemicals in my breakfast?

In some cereals, yes. The worrying aspect of this is that in spite of the intensive milling of the grain, pesticide residues are regularly detected in 10—30 per cent of conventional corn-based cereals. Residues of fumigants, which are used to keep pests away from cereals while in storage, have also been found on breakfast cereal.

Could there be GM ingredients in cereal?

Not at present but contamination remains a risk while GM technology is supported in the US and some South American countries. Kellogg’s products in Europe are reportedly free from proteins from GM soya or maize. Nestlé, whilst it doesn’t use GM ingredients in the UK, is not unsupportive of the use of gene technology. Weetabix Ltd stated that no GM ingredients, additives or derivatives are used in any of its processes. Quaker Oats Ltd says it does not use ingredients containing GM material in any Quaker product. The company tests all soya-based lecithin (E322), an emulsifier used in its products, to ensure freedom from GM material.

Which cereals are GM free?

Apart from the brands mentioned above, organic cereal manufacturers best police the ingredients in their cereals for GM material.

Are cereal bars as wholesome as they look?

Check the labels. Despite their earthy wrapping, they can contain a lot of sugar, salt and flavourings. According to the Food Commission, some cereal bars are very unhealthy. For example, a Kellogg’s Coco-Pops bar was found to contain a greater proportion of calories from sugar than milk chocolate, and there were saturated fats in a Kellogg’s Rice Krispies bar forming 29 per cent of its calories. The Food Commission concluded that many breakfast cereal bars had higher levels of sugar than nutritionists recommend for a healthy breakfast such as a bowl of cereal with semi-skimmed milk. Ten had higher fat levels.

You would imagine, given that cereal bars are popular with children, that pesticide levels would be carefully monitored. In 2001 cereal bars were tested for residues for the first time and they were found in over 70 per cent of them.

How environmentally friendly are breakfast cereals?

The packaging is often mainly recycled but it is a problem nonetheless. There’s too much of it, with too little inside. It is possible to buy known brands of cereal loose by the kilo from ‘weigh’ shops. This is a good and inexpensive avenue to take, providing you trust the source.

Where to buy good breakfast cereals

Perhaps, given the above information, it would be better if we all ate porridge, but the following sell good-quality breakfast cereal. Do read labels, however. These companies usually sell a range and there may be salt and sugar added to some of their products and not to others.

Alara Wholefoods, 110-112 Camley Street, London NWI OPFTel: 020 7387 9303www.alara.co.uk

Imaginative organic muesli-based breakfast cereals, including a fairly traded muesli and a range specially designed for the needs of certain age groups: children (‘Growing’), expectant mothers (‘Blooming’) and older people (‘Prime’—forgive the pet-food connotations, this one is very good). The company has a strong ethical policy, sourcing locally (British) where possible. Home delivery available.

Dorset Cereals, Beverill Avenue East, Poundbury,Dorchester DTI 3WETel: 01305 751000www.dorset-cereals.co.uk

Mueslis made with good-quality cereals and fruit, most of which contain no added sugar. All but one of the mueslis contain no added salt. The high-fibre muesli is recommended.

Jordans Ltd, Holme Mills, Biggleswade, Bedfordshire SGI8 9JYTel: 0800 587 8901www.jordans-cereals.co.uk

Good organic porridge oats and multigrain (non-organic) porridge oats.

Nature’s Path, Community Foods, Brent Terrace,London NW2 ILTTel: 020 8450 941 Iwww.naturespath.com

Excellent range of organic cereals from an ethically minded Canadian company, including Heritage Bites and Heritage Flakes (made with traditional grain breeds) and puffed millet rice. For children there is the Envirokidz range, including Gorilla Munch, cinnamon-flavoured Orangutan ‘O’s and cocoa-dusted Koala Crisps. The only sweetener used in the children’s range is evaporated cane juice.

Sharpham Park, Glastonbury, Somerset BAI6 9SATel: 01458 844080www.sharphamparkshop.com

Launched in 2005, a range of breakfast cereals made from spelt, one of the world’s most ancient cereal plants. Puffed spelt, plus five types of muesli. Mail order available.

Southern Alps Ltd, Unit 14, West Yoke Farm, Michael’s Lane,Ash, Near Sevenoaks, Kent TN15 7HTTel: 01474 871275www.southern-alps.co.uk

Delicious hand-made mueslis prepared from excellent-quality ingredients.

Whole Earth, Combe Lane, Wormley, Godalming,Surrey GU8 5SZTel: 01428 685100www.wholeearthfoods.com

Cornflakes sweetened with cane sugar and no added salt.

BROCCOLI (AND OTHER BRASSICAS)

With its long British growing season and high nutrient content, broccoli has become an essential in almost every shop, and, for a vegetable that comes with the flower attached, it stores well too. Then to add to its merits, there is the beauty of green broccoli’s more sophisticated cousin, purple sprouting broccoli – a vegetable that when eaten freshly picked has as much quality as asparagus. Best of all, broccoli’s sweetness and lack of sulphur flavour mean that children do not wrinkle their noses at it as they traditionally do with unfairly maligned cabbage and Brussels sprouts. So is broccoli all good news for shoppers? Not quite—chief among concerns are the use of pesticides on the crop and a suggestion that this oh-so-healthy vegetable is not quite as good for you as it used to be…

Is broccoli in season all year round?

It may always be on shop shelves but the British season for green broccoli ends with the first frosts of October or November. Most of our broccoli is grown outdoors in Lincolnshire, with the first crops harvested in May. November sees the first harvest of cold-loving purple sprouting broccoli, which should be available until early April, so in theory, if you switch from one to the other you can eat British-grown broccoli all year round.

If it’s not British, who else grows it?

Out-of-season green broccoli is imported from Spain, France and Italy. The broccoli is packed in ice boxes, which keep it ‘fresh’ but the nutrient value is reduced. Broccoli from southern Spain clocks up a weighty 900 food miles. The Spanish also make heavier use of agricultural chemicals. In 2000 the government reported that 14 per cent of sampled imported broccoli contained pesticide residues and half of these were over the maximum recommended level. One sample of British broccoli, however, contained residues of a pesticide banned in the UK. Broccoli was tested again in 2005 but so far results have been published only for broccoli grown in southern European countries. In this instance, residues of the pesticide, chlorothalonil, were found on one sample. Chlorothalonil is permitted in the UK but pesticide watchdogs, the Pesticide Action Network (PAN UK), have listed this agricultural chemical as a ‘bad actor’ – a pesticide that is a probable carcinogen. The reduction in residues found on all the samples is generally to be welcomed, though broccoli’s popularity should see it tested more frequently than every five years.

Why is broccoli described as a ‘superfood’?

It contains high levels of sulforaphane, a cancer-fighting antioxidant. These nutrients were found occurring naturally in a Sicilian wild relative of the plant, which was then crossbred with commercial species, giving modern broccoli an increased nutritional value with 100 times the level of sulforaphane. Broccoli also contains high levels of calcium, although according to scientists its calcium levels have dropped by 75 per cent since 1940. In his book We Want Real Food (Constable, 2006) Graham Harvey explains that not just broccoli but all vegetables have lost vitamins and minerals. Explanations for this include the over use of fertilisers on crops and, conversely, the breeding of modern hybrids that crop early, resist disease and have a long shelf life. You cannot, therefore, go too wrong if you eat lots more broccoli.

How can I be sure of choosing pesticide-free broccoli?

Of the samples tested for residues in 2005, seven were organic and none of these contained a single residue, making organic the best choice. Organic farms are permitted to use six agricultural chemicals, while conventional farmers have hundreds at their disposal.

Should I buy loose or wrapped broccoli?

The wide expanse of the flower head on broccoli means it oxidises quickly, giving unwrapped broccoli a short shelf life of three days. Wrapped and refrigerated, it will keep for five days or more. If you prefer to buy vegetables without packaging, you must buy fresher broccoli more frequently (or buy it unwrapped and wrap it in cling film before storing).

Is a hole in the stalk a bad sign?

Not in nutritional terms. British broccoli often has holes – a sign of erratic growth caused by our climate. Holey broccoli deteriorates quicker than broccoli with a solid stalk, but it is still worth buying rather than imported for its freshness, low food-mile scale and high nutrient value.

Does GM broccoli exist?

Yes, but it is not yet permitted for sale. Scientists are developing a super-broccoli with 80 times more cancer-fighting ability (not to be confused with the one crossbred with a Sicilian wild plant, above). The plant is expected to be ready in three years’ time and will raise tricky questions about where the line should be drawn between food and preventative medicine.

What is calabrese?

Calabrese is an Italian brassica similar to broccoli but with a pale green, pointed, looser-packed flower head. It is grown in the UK but, since it is a more tender plant, you are unlikely to find those not grown under glass before their season in August and September.

Do the other brassicas share similar issues with broccoli?

Yes. Cauliflowers and cabbages can be grown in the UK all year round, so it is always best to ask for British if you want the freshest produce. Cauliflower is a precarious crop for farmers, who are unable to sell it during hot weather, when the sun turns the white flower yellow. At this time, acre upon acre of crop can be grubbed and wasted because apparently neither supermarkets nor their customers want a yellowed cauliflower, even though the taste and nutrient quality are the same as for pure white ones. So don’t turn your noise up at hot-weather cauliflowers: eaten raw, thinly sliced, with a dressing, they are a revelation. Cabbages and cauliflowers have similar pesticide issues to broccoli, so you may prefer to choose organic. Brussels sprouts have recently undergone quite a change in flavour. New breeds taste much less sulphurous than those in my Seventies’ childhood and they – and sprout tops—now join purple sprouting broccoli as a seasonal winter vegetable to look forward to.

What’s in the supermarkets?

All chains, large and small, should sell UK-grown green broccoli and purple sprouting in season. If there is no indication on the price tag, look at the side of the packing cases (if it is not in those green plastic ones) for evidence of country of origin. If no UK-grown broccoli is available during the season, don’t be afraid to ask a manager or customer services; your demands will be noted. Organic broccoli is available in some supermarkets.

Where to buy British broccoli in season

Fresh, locally sourced broccoli can usually be bought at farmers’ markets and farm shops. To find the ones nearest to you, check www.farmersmarkets.net (tel: [phone]), or www.lfm.org.uk (tel: [phone]) for London. For details of farm shops, look at www.farma.org.uk or www.bigbarn.co.uk.

Box schemes can deliver both green and purple sprouting broccoli to your door. They are listed in the directory on the Soil Association website (www.soilassociation.org) or your nearest local scheme can be found on the local food network (www.localfoodworks.org).

The following retailers specialise in organic vegetables:

Abel & Cole, 8-15 MGI Estate, Milkwood Road, London SE24 OJFTel: 0845 262 6262www.abel-cole.co.uk

Home delivery nationwide.

Farmaround Organic, Office BI43, New Covent Garden Market,Nine Elms Lane, London SW8 5PATel: 020 7627 8066 (home delivery in London)Tel: [phone] I 16 (home delivery in the north of England)www.farmaround.co.uk

Fresh Food Company, The Orchard, 50 Wormholt Road,London W12 OLSTel: 020 8749 8778www.freshfood.co.uk

Home delivery nationwide.

Growing Communities, The Old Fire Station, 61 Leswin Road,London N16 7NYTel: 020 7502 7588www.growingcommunities.org

Collection only, reducing the price for London customers. There are three collection points, including this one; call to find the nearest.

Organic Connections, Riverdale, Town Street, Upwell, Wisbech,Cambridgeshire PEI4 9AFTel: 01945 773374www.organic-connections.co.uk

Home delivery nationwide.

Riverford Organic Vegetables Ltd, Wash Barn, Buckfastleigh,Devon TQ11 OLDTel: 0845 600 2311www.riverford.co.uk

Home delivery in London, Midlands and the Southwest.

Solstice Home, Unit 851-2, New Covent Garden Market,London SW8 5EETel: 020 7498 7700www.solstice.co.uk

Home delivery nationwide.

Sunnyfields Organic, Jacobs Gutter Lane, Totton,Southampton SO40 9FXTel: 02380 861266www.sunnyfields.co.uk

Home delivery in Hampshire, Dorset, Surrey and Central London.

BURGERS

Burgers are almost synonymous with the BSE cattle disease scandal, yet there’s no denting our passion for them. A rough estimate reports that we consume nearly a million tonnes of burgers a year, yet in spite of new labelling laws that tell us more about the burger in the shop than ever, many commercial burgers are only partially beef (or other meat) and in some types of burger, only part of that need actually be muscle. The rest? Well, well, try fat, gristle and mechanically recovered meat…

Is the burger in the shop a bargain?

No! Frequently the price of lean minced beef is below that of ready-made burgers, which may contain added ingredients.

What do the various burger names on the packs mean?

UK regulations governing the labelling of burgers divides them into three types:

• Burgers – must contain at least 80 per cent of the meat or food named in the title, e.g. beef or chicken. Some 65 per cent of the meat must be lean.

• Economy burgers – must contain at least 60 per cent of the meat or food named in the title. Some 65 per cent of the meat must be lean.

• Hamburgers—the meat used must be pork, beef or a mixture and the burger must contain at least 80 per cent meat, with 65 per cent of that being lean meat.

So what else is in burgers?

Fat can be added, and you will know it is there because much will run, or render, during cooking, leaving a very thin burger. If offal is added, it must be itemised on the label, but you are unlikely to find it in shop-bought burgers. Mechanically recovered meat (MRM) may be present. This is a deeply unpleasant paste made up of meat scraps recovered by suction from the carcasses of beef, lamb and pork. However, public revulsion for products like MRM makes it a more likely ingredient in caterers’ burgers. Until 1996 MRM could contain beef spinal cord but since BSE any material that could pose a risk to humans is removed.