The Savvy Shopper

Air miles can be a serious problem for exported asparagus. Spanish asparagus is transported by lorry but asparagus from other exporting countries, including Thailand and Peru, is air freighted. Environmentalists point out that this is a high fuel–oil cost for a low-calorie food – meaning is it worth the environmental cost to ship a nonessential food? I’d argue that there is more justification in shipping bananas or citrus fruit. The best line to take is to choose imported – preferably outdoor-grown Spanish – as an occasional luxury.

When does the British season begin?

Usually around the end of April, running to a cut-off point in the third week of June. Growers must leave enough stalks in the ground to ‘go to seed’ and so provide a good crop for the following year.

Why is boiling now better than steaming?

Newly developed breeds of asparagus have a uniform tenderness along the stalk that allows them to be snapped at the base during harvest, not cut. It was the case that the old breeds were cut, just under the ground, so the stalks were sold with a tougher end to them. Asparagus steamers were created so that the whole stalk would cook evenly.

What is the best way to prepare asparagus?

The modern breeds can be boiled for five to seven minutes, until just tender when pierced with a knife, then lifted out and laid on a tea towel to drain thoroughly (do not bruise them by throwing them into a colander). Chefs often pare away the outer skin on the lower end of the stalk to guarantee even cooking. This is a good idea that also yields extra-green cooked stalks.

Are chemicals used to grow asparagus?

It is hard to track chemical use in importing countries but Spanish growers who supply UK supermarkets may not use any more than their UK counterparts. Chemical use in the UK varies; if you want to avoid all but the organic sector’s few approved chemicals, then buy organic, where all weeding is done by hand. But there are conventional suppliers – even large-scale ones – who measure the impact they have on the environment: carrying out ornithological surveys and encouraging beneficial predatory insects on crops to replace pesticides. Members of the Asparagus Growers Association (see page 40) are refreshingly transparent about pesticide use. Responsible growers are reluctant to use sprays because almost the whole plant is eaten.

The big problem for growers is weeds, so in the UK a limited number of herbicides is conventionally used before the shoots appear. After that, growers should weed by hand, but there is no rule that guarantees this. Fungicides are sometimes used during a harvest in wet weather. The point about asparagus is that the stalks are above ground for no more than 11 days, so with decent weather conditions and no pest attacks they stand a good chance of being chemical free.

Reports recording pesticide residues comfort a little. Both British and imported asparagus were tested for residues in spring 2004. Residues were found on one out of 47 samples. The sample – from Peru – contained residues of the pesticide cypermethrin below UK maximum residue levels, but obviously if other growers can produce residue-free asparagus, we do not want to see any at all.

Is asparagus good for you?

It is classed as a ‘superfood’, especially for pregnant women, because it contains particularly high levels of natural folic acid, plus vitamins A, C and E. It is also a good source of potassium and fibre – so eat lots during the glut.

But what about that smell?

The smell in urine after eating asparagus comes from sulphur-containing degradation products that are created as the body metabolises the asparagus. The odour, which can be nasty, gave the asparagus its old reputation, ‘chambermaid’s nightmare’. It is said that healthy kidney function will produce that smelly ‘pee’ within 15 minutes of eating the stalks, but it is also true that some people are totally unable to detect the smell, so don’t panic if you eat asparagus and the air in the loo appears, er, as sweet as ever.

What other varieties are there, apart from green?

White asparagus is very popular in Belgium, France and Italy but imported stalks can be flavourless and tough. Red asparagus, which crops at the same time as green, is making a comeback in the UK and is available in May. Asparagus ‘sprue’ is not another breed, just thin stalks, and is very good stir-fried or cooked quickly and added to a risotto.

How do I choose asparagus?

Green asparagus is sold in two thicknesses, ‘jumbo’ and ‘kitchen’. There is little difference in flavour; it is always the freshness that counts. Sniff the tips, which should smell fresh and fruity, not of compost. Inspect the stalks for damage and look out for very dry ends, which probably mean that the asparagus has been hanging about a bit.

Supermarkets tend to buy direct from farms, but nevertheless you need to scrutinise their asparagus for signs of age. It is possible that it has been held in a warehouse for up to three days before distribution.

For the freshest asparagus, buy direct from farms, produce markets or from local greengrocers who go to regional wholesale markets that take delivery of freshly picked asparagus from local farms every night.

What the supermarkets say

Sainsbury claims to take all the British produce that is available to it during the UK season but says that demand outstrips supply. In these cases it imports produce, from countries in Asia, the Americas, and Africa. All of this produce is transported by road and air freight. Sainsbury also stocks organic asparagus.

Tesco’s asparagus is grown in Peru and Guatemala. Tesco states that it sources British when quality is at its best. It also sells an organic variety.

Marks & Spencer sources its asparagus from Peru, the UK and South Africa. It says that it has extended the selling period of British asparagus, now selling it out of season for two months longer – to great success (obviously). The asparagus is usually transported by air and road freight.

The Co-op sources its asparagus from the UK, Peru and Thailand. There is no organic option. The asparagus is transported via road and air freight.

Budgens’ asparagus is sourced from the UK when in season, Peru and Spain at other times. It does not sell an organic variety.

Where to buy British asparagus

Pick-your-own farms and farm shops are the best source of asparagus during the season, and very good value. Buying from them also supports the local economy. The Asparagus Growers Association has a list of all suppliers who sell at the farm gate: look at www.british-asparagus.co.uk or phone [phone].

Mail-order asparagus is available from the following suppliers:

C. W. Cave (Terrington) Ltd, Hall Farm, West Rudham,Kings Lynn, Norfolk PE31 8TETel: 01485 528238

Mr and Mrs J. M. Harlow, I Westenhanger Cottage,Maidstone Road, Horsmonden, Tonbridge, Kent TN12 8DDTel: 01892 722533www.easyasparagus.com

A. H. and H. A. Pattullo, Eassie Farm, By Glamis,Angus DD8 ISGTel: 01307 840303

BABY FOOD AND INFANT FORMULA

While breast milk is the best possible baby’s tipple, it appears that you are never too young to be green. The buzzword in the baby food and formula market barely needs saying, but organic it is. Ten years ago organic baby food and formula companies could be counted on the fingers of one hand. Now there are at least a dozen. Once weaned, you can be a green gourmet, too. Forget slimy purée—baby gets a menu worthy of an entry in the Michelin Guide. But just before you dash off to buy these Lilliputian ready meals, remember that is exactly what they are and, just like milk from the breast, freshly cooked food from fresh ingredients is always best.

Does organic mean pesticide free when

it comes to baby food?

Yes, and interestingly under UK law conventional baby food is free of pesticides, too. The maximum limit for pesticides in milk formula and baby food is set at 0.01mg per kilo, a level so low it effectively means no residues are present. This is not to say there is not a problem. In 2002, when cereal-based baby foods were tested for the organophosphate, pirimiphos methyl, two out of 71 samples had detectable levels. Later that year three out of 73 samples were found to contain the same pesticide – they were withdrawn, but inexplicably cereal-based baby food was not tested the following year.

So is buying vegetable ready meals for babies a wiser buy

than a fresh carrot or squash?

In terms of pesticide residues, it could provide a guarantee of safety from them, but the benefits of cooking fresh food for a baby or child are greater. It should be said that pesticide manufacturers and conventional farmers continue to argue that agricultural chemicals are safe, but there is still much debate about the so-called cocktail effect of more than one residue on one vegetable. You can always buy organic produce and make baby food with that. Organic growers and producers are permitted to use very few agricultural chemicals, whereas hundreds can be used in conventional farming.

Where do the meat, dairy and eggs in baby

food come from?

Unless the label has Soil Association organic certification, or carries a statement on animal welfare and feed, the meat, dairy or egg content could derive from intensively reared livestock. Other organic marks are a good sign but Soil Association animal welfare standards are the most stringent.

Is the milk base of formula milk from cows

kept in intensive farms?

Non-organic formula will have come from conventional farms, though not all conventional farms are intensive. Again, a reputable organic certificate is a sign of good husbandry. Be aware that conventional, large-scale milk production is bad for the environment (see page 247) and that animal welfare can be compromised. It is not, however, an unsafe food.

What’s added to conventional formula milk?

The basis of formula milk is protein, whey and casein in a ratio as close as the manufacturer can get to that in breast milk. Fat is added, usually a mix of animal and vegetable fat, but increasingly long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids (LCPs) are added too. These include fish-oil-based omega-3 and plant-based omega-6, which are known to benefit the heart and stimulate brain function. Vitamins and minerals are also added, along with amino acids and sometimes proteins called nucleotides, which occur naturally in breast milk and can boost immunity.

Are non-dairy (cow’s milk) formulas available?

There are formulas based on goat’s milk and soy for babies with a family history of allergy-based illnesses. They also contain added nutrients. If you think your child is intolerant or allergic to dairy milk, it is important to seek the advice of a paediatrician or nutrition expert before choosing any alternative.

What’s the difference between conventional

formula and organic?

There is little difference in the basic ingredients, but with each formula the proportions of each may vary. In organic formula, the food-based ingredients must be organically sourced.

Are the recipes for infant formulas tested?

Formulation of infant milks is under the control of UK and EU legislation. The law is designed to stop the use of untested novel substances in the manufacture of infant formulas and changes cannot be made to formula milks without proper trials.

Why are free samples of formula milk

given to new mothers?

For loyalty and profit – the manufacturers want their business. It is very tempting for mothers who are struggling in the early breastfeeding days to top up with formula or even switch over to it. The same practice takes on a more sinister role in developing countries with water cleanliness problems. In 2002 Unicef estimated that 1.5 million babies would die a year from unsafe bottlefeeding. The food corporation, Nestlé, was singled out for aggressively marketing formula milk in developing countries and a worldwide boycott of their products began in 1978. In May 1999 a ruling was published against Nestlé by the UK Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). In an anti-boycott advert, Nestlé had claimed that it marketed infant formula ‘ethically and responsibly’. The ASA found that the corporation could not support this or other claims in the face of evidence provided by the campaigning group, Baby Milk Action.

Can baby food and formula be contaminated with GMOs?

Livestock that produce milk, meat or eggs for the baby food and formula market may be given GM feed, unless they are only grass fed. The authorities say that since the feed passes through the gut, there will be no contamination. GM watchdogs argue that there is some evidence that DNA from GM material remains in and passes through the gut of animals. They also insist that testing and labelling of GM foods is not adequate. Organic baby food producers police for GM contamination very effectively, and the smaller producers provide exceptionally clear traceability.

Do baby foods contain colourings or other additives?

Yes. The only colours permitted are riboflavin and beta-carotene, which are vitamins with a natural colour. The government complies with EU law and ‘restricts’ the use of other non-natural additives. Keep an eye out for starch-based ‘fillers’, such as modified maize starch (corn starch) and maltodextrin, which are added to bulk out food, thus reducing the ingredient cost (water can be added for the same reason). They make food tasteless, necessitating the use of flavourings. Maltodextrin has no nutritional use. Read the labels, choosing only foods that are 100 per cent natural.

Do baby foods contain added sugar?

Yes. A survey by the Food Commission found 50 per cent sugar in Nestlé Fruit Stick and 37 per cent in Boots Teddy Bear biscuits, compared with 36 per cent in a jam tart. Traditional Farley’s Rusks (29 per cent) have more sugar than a chocolate digestive (27 per cent). And so-called ‘reduced-sugar’ products from Farley’s (21 per cent) and Hipp (21 per cent) had more sugar than a jam doughnut (19 per cent sugar). These are biscuits for children who are just getting their first teeth! Check the ingredients list for added sugar, including any mention of dextrose, glucose, corn syrup and other types of sugar.

Do baby foods contain salt?

There should not be any salt in baby food. Babies up to 12 months need lg or less salt a day, which they will get naturally from their milk and meals without adding extra. Never add salt to food for a baby or a child under five.

Where to buy trustworthy baby foods

It is always better to wean a baby on to home-made foods prepared from good-quality fresh ingredients. Only feed ready-made foods when there is a genuine time constraint, in which case look out for the following brands:

All Good Stuff, Chadwick House, Birchwood Park,Warrington WA3 6AETel: 01925 830500www.allgoodstuff.com

Not so much ready meals as simple fruit and vegetable purées, frozen in individual portions. Very good for newly weaned babies. Home delivery available.

Baby Organix, Knapp Mill, Mill Road,Christchurch, Dorset BH23 2LUTel: 0800 39351 Iwww.babyorganix.co.uk

Baby Organix was among the first British mainstream organic baby food manufacturers. The recipes are based on traditional home cooking. Available from most supermarkets, as well as independent shops.

Daylesford Organic Farm Shop, Daylesford, Nr Kingham,Gloucestershire GL56 0YGTel: 01608 731700www.daylesfordorganic.com

Organic fruit and vegetable purées for babies, cooked for a short time to retain nutrients, and free from additives, salt and sugar. Home delivery available.

Goodness Direct, South March, Daventry,Northamptonshire NN11 4PHTel: 0871 871 6611www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

Goodness Direct stocks some established imported brands, including Nanny Goat Milk Infant Nutrition and follow-on milk from New Zealand, BabyNat organic infant formula and bottled purées, Familia Swiss Baby muesli and the Hipp organic range. Home delivery available.

Hipp, 165 Main Street, New Greenham Park,Newbury, Berkshire RG 19 6HNTel: 0845 050 1351www.hipp.co.uk

Hipp converted its range to organic in 1995 and sells food, infant formula milks and follow-on milks. Available from all major supermarkets, or direct from the website.

Mini Scoff, Scoff Central, Unit 3a Midlands Industrial Estate,Holt, Wiltshire BA14 6RUTel: 01225 783221www.miniscoff.co.uk

Good ideas, including organic vegetable and pasta dishes, meat recipes, and even a dish with very mild chilli to galvanise young taste buds. Home delivery available.

Mums4 (by Mothers for Children), 58 Clarendon Street,Leamington Spa CV32 4PETel: 01926 771285www.mums4.com

Organic yoghurt sweetened only by the fruit and milk, the equivalent of one teaspoon of natural sugar as opposed to the 2–3 teaspoons of sugar added to conventional children’s yoghurt. Available from Tesco, Waitrose and home delivery from Ocado.

Plum Baby, PO Box 283, Lyndhurst, Hampshire S043 7WZTel: 0845 389 0061www.plumbabysuperfoods.com

Susie Willis’s new company makes Fairtrade-accredited mango and banana purée with quinoa; spinach, parsnip and basil; and blueberry banana and vanilla.

Truuuly Scrumptious Organic Baby Food,Charmborough Farm, Charlton Road, Holcombe,Radstock, Somerset BA3 5EXTel: 01761 239300www.bathorganicbabyfood.co.uk

Imaginative recipes, frozen in microwavable pots to retain the goodness in the organic raw materials. Puréed sweet potato or apple and raisin for young babies; sweetcorn chowder, salmon and broccoli for older ones. Home delivery available.

BACON (AND PORK)

It should be so simple. Cover a fresh pork back or belly with salt and a little sugar, leave it to cure, then mature it in a cold, dry room and you have bacon. But simple it isn’t. Traditionally cured bacon is still available but the majority of commercial bacon is produced very differently – and much of it is imported from other European countries, a long way from our breakfast tables. The same issues apply to bacon’s raw material, fresh pork. This ranges from slow-grown traditional breeds with sublime flavour and superb cooking qualities (meaning less shrinkage and no seeping white paste during cooking) to characterless, pale, fatless joints that are as disappointing as they are cheap. It is worth bearing in mind that, due to the poor cooking quality of such pork, the cheapest pork is not always the best value.

What methods are used to make commercially

cured bacon?

Commercially made bacon is wet cured in brine with either phosphates or a derivative. Injected into the meat, phosphates encourage the absorption of water, which boosts the weight of the meat. This is the milky liquid that seeps from the bacon as it fries. Bacon cured this way will retain a higher level of salt – a matter of concern to anyone watchful of their diet.

How is traditional bacon made?

It can be wet or dry cured. The former is placed in a brine tub with salt, sodium nitrite (E250 – note nitrite not nitrate) and potassium nitrate (E252, otherwise known as saltpetre), plus the spices, sugar or seasoning that give it its character. Dry-cured bacon is placed in a mixture of dry salt, sodium nitrate, potassium nitrate, seasonings and/ or spices. Nitrates give bacon its pink colour. Ordinary salt produces very unappealing grey bacon. Organic production permits the use of both. After curing, it is hung to dry and mature. With no injections of phosphates, traditional cures are less salty and the flavour of the meat more obvious. These two methods are well suited to traditional, slow-growing pig breeds.

Should I be concerned about the preservatives in bacon?

Obviously excessive salt in bacon is not healthy but it is much better to eat bacon that has been dry cured or traditionally brined (the Wiltshire cure) than injected with brine and phosphates, as is sometimes the case with commercial cured pork. The preservative with the greater problem is potassium nitrite (E249), which is not permitted in food specifically made for infants and small children because it can affect the body’s ability to carry oxygen and is therefore a danger to asthma sufferers or those with respiratory illness. Just to confuse matters further, sodium nitrate (E251) and sodium nitrite (E250) can also be used in the curing process. The latter is controversial and some retailers will not permit its use because it is potentially harmful to children.

Who makes bacon?

Britain, Holland and Denmark are major producers but bacon is also made in the Irish Republic, France, Germany and Spain. The majority of bacon eaten in the UK is imported, mainly from Holland and Denmark, and the figure is on the increase. Recently it was reported that imports have increased by 38 per cent to 300,000 tonnes, and that excludes fresh pork that is imported and cured in the UK.

Why not eat imports?

It is largely a moral choice. Welfare for British pigs, especially breeding sows, is of a higher standard. It is estimated that two-thirds of breeding sows in other EU countries (apart from Sweden, whose welfare standards are more on a par with UK ones) are kept indoors, confined individually in small stalls all their lives. In the UK, indoor-farmed breeding sows are confined during birth and for four weeks after the birth in ‘farrowing crates’, which measure six feet by four feet (the pigs weigh about 250 kilos). The reason given is to protect the piglets, and British pig farmers say they are trying to design a larger, more welfare-friendly crate. Once the sows have mated again – about five weeks after the last litter – they are moved to pens where they are kept in groups for the duration of the pregnancy – about five months. They may be on straw bedding, which is good, but could be on slatted floors – not good. Young indoor-reared British pigs are loose housed in pens, about half of them on deep litter straw.

In all European countries (apart from Sweden) pigs are kept in groups. Tail docking is permitted in Europe and the UK, but only under veterinary supervision, so at least farmers are not routinely carrying it out. Nose rings are permitted, but rare in the UK.