Fragments of Earth Lore: Sketches & Addresses Geological and Geographical

But the mode in which rocks are arranged is a not less important factor in determining the shape which the ground assumes under the action of the agents of erosion. Thus, as we have already seen, flat-topped, pyramidal mountains, and more or less steep-sided or trench-like valleys, are characteristic features in regions of horizontal strata. When strata dip or incline in one general direction, then we have a succession of escarpments or dip-slopes, corresponding to the outcrops of harder or less readily eroded beds, and separated from each other by long valleys, hollows, or undulating plains, which have the same trend as the escarpments. This kind of configuration is well exemplified over a large part of England. The general dip or inclination of the Mesozoic or Secondary strata throughout that country, between the shores of the North Sea and the English Channel, is easterly and south-easterly – so that the outcrops of the more durable strata form well-defined escarpments that face the west and north-west, and can be followed almost continuously from north to south. Passing from the Malvern Hills in a south-easterly direction, we traverse two great escarpments – the first coinciding with the outcrop of the Oolite, and forming the Cotswold Hills; and the second corresponding to the outcrop of the Chalk, and forming the Chiltern Hills. The plains and low undulating tracts that separate these escarpments mark the outcrops of more yielding strata – the low grounds that intervene between the Cotswolds and the Malvern Hills being composed of Liassic and Triassic clays and sandstones. In Scotland similar escarpments occur, but owing to sudden changes of the dip, and various interruptions of the strata, the Scottish escarpments are not so continuous as those of the sister-country. Many of the belts of hilly ground in the Scottish Lowlands, however, exemplify the phenomena of escarpment and dip-slope. Thus, the Sidlaws in Forfarshire consist of a series of hard igneous rocks and interbedded sandstones and flags – the outcrops of which form a succession of escarpments with intervening hollows. The same appearances recur again and again all over the Lowlands. Wherever, indeed, any considerable bed of hard rock occurs in a series of less enduring strata – the outcrop of the harder rock invariably forms a well-marked feature or escarpment. As examples, I may refer to Salisbury Crags, Craiglockhart Hill, Dalmahoy Crags, the Bathgate Hills, King Alexander’s Crag, etc. All these are conspicuous examples of the work of denudation – for it can be demonstrated that each of these rock-masses was at one time deeply buried under sandstones and shales, and they now crop out at the surface, and form prominent features simply because the beds which formerly covered and surrounded them have been gradually removed.

From what has now been said it will be readily understood that in regions composed of strata the inclination or dip of which is not constant but continually changing in direction, the surface-features must be more or less irregular. If the strata dip east the outcrops of the harder beds will form escarpments facing the west, and the direction of the escarpments will obviously change with the direction of the dip. Undulating strata of variable composition will, in short, give rise to an undulating surface, but the superficial undulations will not coincide with those of the strata. On the contrary, in regions consisting of undulating strata of diverse consistency the hills generally correspond with synclinal troughs – or, in other words, trough-shaped strata tend to form hills; while, on the other hand, arch-shaped or anticlinal strata most usually give rise to hollows. This remarkable fact is one of the first to arrest the attention of every student of physical geology, and its explanation is simple enough. An anticlinal arrangement of strata is a weak structure – it readily succumbs to the attacks of the denuding agents; a synclinal arrangement on the contrary, is a strong structure, which is much less readily broken up. Hence it is that in all regions which have been exposed for prolonged periods to sub-aërial denudation synclinal strata naturally come to form hills, and anticlinal strata valleys or low grounds. In the case of a mountain-chain so recently elevated as that of the Alps, the mountain-ridges, as we have seen, often coincide roughly with the greater folds of the strata. Such anticlinal mountains are weakly built, and consequently rock-falls and landslips are of common occurrence among them – far more common, and on a much larger scale, than among the immeasurably older mountains of Scandinavia and Scotland. The valleys of the Pyrenees, the Alps, and the Apennines, are cumbered with enormous chaotic heaps of fallen rock-masses. From time to time peaks and whole mountain-sides give way, and slide into the valleys, burying hamlets and villages, and covering wide tracts of cultivated land. Hundreds of such disastrous rock-falls have occurred in the Alps within historical ages, and must continue to take place until every weakly-formed mountain has been demolished. The hills and mountains of Scotland have long since passed through this phase of unstable equilibrium. After countless ages of erosion our higher grounds have acquired a configuration essentially different from that of a true mountain-chain. Enormous landslips like that of the Rossberg are here impossible, for all such weakly-constructed mountains have disappeared.

A little consideration will serve to show how such modifications and changes have come about. When strata are crumpled up they naturally crack across, for they are not elastic. During the great movements which have originated all mountains of elevation, it is evident that the strata forming the actual surface of the ground would often be greatly fissured and shattered along the crests of the sharper anticlinal ridges. In the synclinal troughs, however, although much fissuring would take place, yet the strata would be compelled by the pressure to keep together. Now, when we study the structure of such a region as the Alps, we find that the tops of the anticlines have almost invariably been removed, so as to expose the truncated ends of the strata – the ruptured and shattered rock-masses having in the course of time been carried away by the agents of erosion. Such mountains are pre-eminently weak structures. Let us suppose that the mountains represented in the diagram consist of a succession of strata, some of which are more or less permeable by water, while others are practically impermeable. It is obvious that water soaking down from the surface will find its way through the porous strata (p), and come out on the slopes of the mountains along the joints and cracks (c) by which all strata are traversed. Under the influence of such springs and the action of frost, the rock at the surface will eventually be broken up, and ever and anon larger and smaller portions will slide downwards over the surface of the underlying impermeable stratum. The undermining action of rivers will greatly intensify this disintegrating and disrupting process. As the river deepens and widens its valley (v), it is apparent that in doing so it must truncate the strata that are inclined towards it. The beds will then crop out upon the slopes of the valley (as at b, b), and so the conditions most favourable for a landslip will arise. Underground water, percolating through the porous beds (p), and over the surface of the underlying impermeable beds (i, i, i), must eventually bring about a collapse. The rocks forming the surface-slopes of the mountain will from time to time give and slide into the valley, or the whole thickness of the truncated strata may break away and rush downwards; and this process must continue so long as any portion of the anticlinal arch remains above the level of the adjacent synclinal troughs.

Thus it will be seen that an anticlinal arch is a weak structure – a mountain so constructed falls a ready prey to the denuding agents; and hence in regions which have been exposed to denudation for as long a period as the Scottish or Scandinavian uplands, a mountain formed of anticlinally arranged strata is of very exceptional occurrence. When it does appear, it is only because the rocks of which it is composed happen to be of a more enduring character than those of the adjacent tracts. The Ochil Hills exemplify this point. These hills consist of a great series of hard igneous rocks, which are arranged in the form of a depressed anticlinal arch – the low grounds lying to the north and south being composed chiefly of sandstones and shales. Here it is owing to the more enduring character of the igneous rocks that the anticlinal arch has not been entirely removed. We know, however, that these igneous rocks were formerly buried under a great thickness of strata, and that their present appearance at the surface is simply the result of denudation.

If an anticlinal arch be a weak structure, a synclinal arrangement of strata is quite the opposite. In the case of the former each bed has a tendency to slip or slide away from the axis, while in a syncline it is just the reverse – the strata being inclined towards and not away from the axis. Underground water, springs, and frost are enabled to play havoc with anticlinal strata, for the structure is entirely in their favour. But in synclinal beds the action of these powerful agents is opposed by the structure of the rocks – and great rock-falls and landslips cannot take place. Synclinal strata therefore endure, while anticlinal strata are worn more readily away. Even in a true mountain-range so young as the Alps, denudation has already demolished many weakly-built anticlinal mountains, and opened up valleys along their axes; while, on the other hand, synclinal troughs have been converted into mountains. And if this be true of the Alps, it is still more so of much older mountain-regions, in which the original contours due to convolutions of the strata have entirely disappeared.

The mountains of such regions, having been carved out and modelled by denuding agents, are rightly termed mountains of circumdenudation, for they are just as much the work of erosion as the flat-topped and pyramidal mountains which have been carved out of horizontal strata. The Scottish Highlands afford us an admirable example of a mountainous region of undulating and often highly-flexed strata, in which the present surface-features are the result of long-continued erosion. As already remarked, this region is one of the oldest land-surfaces in the world. In comparison with it, the Pyrenees, the Alps, and the Himalayas are creations of yesterday. The original surface or configuration assumed by the rocks composing our Highland area at the time when these were first crushed and folded into anticlines and synclines had already been demolished at a period inconceivably more remote than the latest grand upheaval of the Alps. Even before the commencement of Old Red Sandstone times, our Archæan, Cambrian, and Silurian rocks had been planed down for thousands of feet, so that the bottom beds of the Old Red Sandstone were deposited upon a gently undulating surface, which cuts across anticlines and synclines alike. In late Silurian and early post-Silurian times the North-west Highlands probably existed as a true mountain-chain, consisting of a series of parallel ranges formed by the folding and reduplication of the strata. The recent observations of my friends, Professor Lapworth and Messrs. Peach and Horne, in Sutherland, have brought to light the evidence of gigantic earth-movements, by which enormous masses of strata have been convoluted and pushed for miles out of place. We see in that region part of a dissected mountain-chain. The mountain-masses which are there exposed to view are the basal or lower portions of enormous sheets of disrupted rock, the upper parts of which have been removed by denudation. In a word, the mountains of Sutherland are mountains of circumdenudation – they have been carved out of elevated masses by the long-continued action of erosion. To prove this, one has only to draw an accurate section across the North-west Highlands, when it becomes apparent that the form or shape of the ground does not correspond or coincide with the convolutions of the strata, and that a thickness of thousands of feet of rock has been denuded away since those strata were folded and fractured. All over the Highlands we meet with similar evidence of enormous denudation. The great masses of granite which appear at the surface in many places are eloquent of the result produced by erosion continued for immeasurable periods of time. Every geologist knows that granite is a rock which could only have been formed and consolidated at great depths. When, therefore, such a rock occurs at the surface, it is evidence beyond all doubt of prodigious erosion. The granite has been laid bare by the removal of the thick rock-masses underneath which it cooled and consolidated.

A glance at any map of Scotland will show that many river-valleys, and not a few lakes, of the Highlands have a north-east and south-west trend. This trend corresponds to what geologists call the strike of the strata. The rocks of the Highlands have been compressed into a series of folds or anticlines and synclines, which have the direction just stated – namely, north-east and south-west. A careless observer might therefore rashly conclude that these surface-features resembled those of the Jura – in other words, that the long parallel hollows were synclinal troughs, and that the intervening ridges and high grounds were anticlinal arches or saddle-backs. Nothing could be further from the truth. A geological examination of the ground would show that the features in question were everywhere the result of denudation, guided by the petrological character and geological structure of the rocks. Several of the most marked hollows run along the backs of anticlinal axes, while some of the most conspicuous mountains are built up of synclinal or trough-shaped strata. Ben Lawers, and the depression occupied by Loch Tay, are excellent examples; and since that district has recently been mapped in detail by Mr. J. Grant Wilson, of the Geological Survey, I shall give a section to show the relation between the form of the ground and the geological structure of the rocks. This section speaks for itself. Here evidently is a case where “valleys have been exalted and mountains made low.” A well-marked syncline, it will be observed, passes through Ben Lawers, while Loch Tay occupies a depression scooped out of an equally well-defined anticline – a structure which is just the opposite of that which we should expect to find in a true mountain-chain. It will be also noted that Glen-Lyon coincides neither with a syncline nor a fault; it has been eroded along the outcrops of the strata. Many of the north-east and south-west hollows of the Highlands indeed run along the base of what are really great escarpments – a feature which, as we have seen, is constantly met with in every region where the strata “strike” more or less steadily in one direction. In the Highlands the strata are most frequently inclined at considerable angles, so that the escarpments succeed each other more rapidly than would be the case if the strata were less steeply inclined. In no case does any north-east and south-west hollow coincide with a structural cavity. Loch Awe has been cited as an example of a superficial depression formed by the inward dip of the strata on either side. But, as was shown many years ago by my brother, A. Geikie,5 this lake winds across the strike of the strata. Moreover, if it owed its existence to a great synclinal fold, why, he asks, does it not run along the same line as far as the same structure continues? It does not do so: it is not continuous with the synclinal fold, while vertical strata appear in the middle of the lake, where, as my brother remarks, they have clearly no business to be if the sides of the lake are formed by the inward dip of the schists.

The Great Glen, as I mentioned in the preceding article, coincides with a fracture or dislocation – a line of weakness along which the denuding agents had worked for many ages before the beginning of Old Red Sandstone times; and it is possible that smaller dislocations may yet be detected in other valleys. But in each and every case the valleys as we now see them are valleys of erosion; in each and every case the mountains are mountains of circumdenudation; they project as eminences because the rock-masses which formerly surrounded them have been gradually removed. We have only to protract the outcrops of the denuded strata – to restore their continuations – to form some faint idea of the enormous masses of rock which have been carried away from the surface of the Highland area since the strata were folded and fractured. All this erosion speaks to the lapse of long ages. The mountains of elevation which doubtless at one time existed within the Highland area had already, as we have seen, suffered extreme erosion before the beginning of Old Red Sandstone times, much of the area having been converted into an undulating plateau or plain, which, becoming submerged in part, was gradually overspread by the sedimentary deposits of the succeeding Old Red Sandstone period. Those sediments were doubtless derived in large measure from the denudation of the older rocks of the Highlands, and since they attain in places a thickness of 20,000 feet, and cover many square miles, they help us to realise in some measure the vast erosion the Highland area had sustained before the commencement of the Carboniferous period. Nor must we forget that the Old Red Sandstone formation which borders the Highlands has itself experienced excessive denudation: it formerly had a much greater extension, and doubtless at one time overspread large tracts of the Highlands. Again, we have to remember that during the Carboniferous and Permian periods, and the later Mesozoic and Cainozoic eras, the Highlands probably remained more or less continuously in the condition of land. Bearing this in mind, we need not be surprised that not a vestige of the primeval configuration brought about by the great earth-movements of late Silurian times has been preserved. Indeed, had the Highland area, after the disappearance of the Old Red Sandstone inland seas, remained undisturbed by any movement of elevation or depression, it must long ago have been reduced by sub-aërial erosion to the condition of a low-lying undulating plain. But elevation en masse from time to time took place, and so running water and its numerous allies have been enabled to carry on the work of denudation.

Thus in the geological history of the Scottish Highlands we may trace the successive phases through which many other elevated tracts have passed. The Scandinavian plateau, and many of the mountains of middle Germany – such, for example, as the Harz, the Erzgebirge, the Thüringer-Wald, etc. – show by their structure that they have undergone similar changes. First we have an epoch of mountain-elevation, when the strata are squeezed and crushed laterally, fractured and shattered – the result being the production of a series of more or less parallel anticlines and synclines, or, in other words, a true mountain-chain. Next we have a prolonged period of erosion, during which running water flows through synclinal troughs, works along the backs of broken and shattered anticlines, and makes its way by joints, gaping cracks, and dislocations, to the low grounds. As time goes on, the varying character of the rocks and the mode of their arrangement begin to tell: the weaker structures are broken up; rock-falls and landslips ever and anon take place; anticlinal ridges are gradually demolished, while synclines tend to endure, and thus grow, as it were, into hills, by the gradual removal of the more weakly-constructed rock-masses that surround them. Valleys continue to be deepened and widened, while the intervening mountains, eaten into by the rivers and their countless feeders, and shattered and pulverised by springs and frosts, are gradually narrowed, interrupted, and reduced, until eventually what was formerly a great mountain-chain becomes converted into a low-lying undulating plain. Should the region now experience a movement of depression, and sink under the sea, new sedimentary deposits will gather over its surface to a depth, it may be, of many hundreds or even thousands of feet. Should this sunken area be once more elevated en masse – pushed up bodily until it attains a height of several thousand feet – it will form a plateau, composed of a series of horizontal strata resting on the contorted and convoluted rocks of the ancient denuded mountain-chain. The surface of the plateau will now be traversed by streams and rivers, and in course of time it must become deeply cleft and furrowed, the ground between the various valleys rising into mountain-masses. Should the land remain stationary, its former fate shall again overtake it; it will inevitably be degraded and worn down by the sub-aërial agents of erosion, until once more it assumes the character of a low-lying undulating plain.

Through such phases our Highlands have certainly passed. At a very early epoch the Archæan rocks of the north-west were ridged up into great mountain-masses, but before the beginning of the pre-Cambrian period wide areas of those highly-contorted rocks had already been planed across, so that when subsidence ensued the pre-Cambrian sandstones were deposited upon a gently undulating surface of highly convoluted strata. Another great epoch of mountain-making took place after Lower Silurian times, and true mountain-ranges once more appeared in the Highland area. We cannot tell how high those mountains may have been, but they might well have rivalled the Alps. After their elevation a prolonged period of erosion ensued, and the lofty mountain-land was reduced in large measure to the condition of a plain, wide areas of which were subsequently overflowed by the inland seas of Old Red Sandstone times – so that the sediments of those seas or lakes now rest with a violent unconformity on the upturned and denuded edges of the folded and contorted Silurian strata. At a later geological period the whole Highland area was elevated en masse, forming an undulating plateau, traversed by countless streams and rivers, some of which flowed in hollows that had existed before the beginning of Old Red Sandstone times. Since that epoch of elevation the Highland area, although subject to occasional oscillations of level, would appear to have remained more or less continuously in the condition of dry land. The result is, that the ancient plateau of erosion has been deeply incised – the denuding agents have carved it into mountain and glen – the forms and directions of which have been determined partly by the original surface-slopes of the plateau, and partly by the petrological character of the rocks and the geological structure of the ground.

Thus, in the evolution of the surface-features of the earth, the working of two great classes of geological agents is conspicuous – the subterranean and the sub-aërial. The sinking down of the crust upon the cooling nucleus would appear to have given rise to the great oceanic depressions and continental ridges, just as the minor depressions within our continental areas have originated many mountain-chains. In the area undergoing depression the strata are subjected to intense lateral pressure, to which they yield along certain lines by folding up. The strata forming the Alps, which are 130 miles broad, originally occupied a width of 200 miles; and similar evidence of enormous compression is conspicuous in the structure of all mountains of elevation. Great elevation, however, may take place with little or no disturbance of stratification: wide continental areas have been slowly upheaved en masse, and sea-bottoms and low-lying plains have in this way been converted into lofty plateaux.6 Many of the most conspicuous features of the earth’s surface, therefore, are due directly to subterranean action. All those features, however, become modified by denudation, and eventually the primeval configuration may be entirely destroyed, and replaced by contours which bear no direct relation to the form of the original surface. In the newer mountain-chains of the globe the surface-features are still largely those due directly to upheaval; so in some recently elevated plateaux the ground has not yet been cut up and converted into irregular mountain-masses. Many of the more ancient mountain-chains and ranges, however, have been exposed so long to the abrading action of the denuding agents that all trace of their original contour has vanished. And in like manner plateaux of great age have been so highly denuded, so cut and carved by the tools of erosion, that their plateau character has become obscured. They have been converted into undulating mountainous and hilly regions. Everywhere throughout the world we read the same tale of subsidence and accumulation, of upheaval and denudation. The ancient sedimentary deposits which form the major portion of our land-surfaces, are the waste materials derived from the demolition of plains, plateaux, and mountains of elevation. In some mountain-regions we read the evidence of successive epochs of uplift, separated by long intervening periods of erosion, followed by depression and accumulation of newer sediments over the denuded surface. Thus the Alps began to be elevated towards the close of Palæozoic times. Erosion followed, and subsequently the land became depressed, and a vast succession of deposits accumulated over its surface during the long-continued Mesozoic era into early Cainozoic times. Again, a great upheaval ensued, and the Mesozoic and Eocene strata were violently contorted and folded along the flanks of the chain. Then succeeded another period of erosion and depression, which was again interrupted by one or more extensive upheavals. Away from those lines of weakness which we call mountain-chains, we constantly encounter evidence of widespread movements of elevation, during which broad areas of sea-bottom have been upheaved to the light of day, and, after suffering extensive denudation have subsided, to be again overspread with the spoils of adjacent lands, and then upheaved once more. And such oscillations of level have occurred again and again. Looking back through the long vista of the past, we see each continental area in a state of flux – land alternating with sea, and sea with land – mountains and plateaux appearing and disappearing – a constant succession of modifications, brought about by the antagonistic subterranean and sub-aërial agents.