Fragments of Earth Lore: Sketches & Addresses Geological and Geographical

Every geologist admits – it is one of the truisms of his science – that corrugations and plications are the result of subterranean action. Nor does any one deny that when a true mountain-chain was first upheaved the greater undulations of the folded strata probably gave rise to similar undulations at the surface. Some of the larger fractures and dislocations might also have appeared at the surface and produced mural precipices. So long a time, however, has elapsed since the elevation of even the youngest mountain-chains of the globe that the sub-aërial agents of erosion – rain, frost, rivers, glaciers, etc. – have been enabled greatly to modify their primeval features. For these mountains, therefore, it is only partially true that their present slopes coincide with those of the underlying strata. Such being the case with so young a chain as the Alps, we need not be surprised to meet with modifications on a still grander scale in mountain-regions of much greater antiquity. In many such tracts the primeval configuration due to subterranean action has been entirely remodelled, so that hills now stand where deep hollows formerly existed, while valleys frequently have replaced mountains. And this newer configuration is the direct result of erosion, guided by the mineralogical composition and structural peculiarities of the rocks.

It is difficult, or even impossible, for one who is ignorant of geological structure to realise that the apparently insignificant agents of erosion have played so important a rôle in the evolution of notable earth-features. It may be well, therefore, to illustrate the matter by reference to one or two regions where the geological structure is too simple to be misunderstood. The first examples I shall give are from tracts of horizontal strata. Many readers are doubtless aware of the fact that our rock-masses consist for the most part of the more or less indurated and compacted sediments of former rivers, lakes, and seas. Frequently those ancient water-formed rocks have been very much altered, so as even sometimes to acquire a crystalline character. But it is enough for us now to remember that the crust of the globe, so far as that is accessible to observation, is built up mostly of rocks which were originally accumulated as aqueous sediments. Such being the case, it is obvious that our strata of sandstone, conglomerate, shale, limestone, etc., must at first have been spread out in approximately horizontal or gently inclined sheets or layers. We judge so from what we know of sediments which are accumulating at present. The wide flats of our river valleys, the broad plains that occupy the sites of silted-up lakes, the extensive deltas of such rivers as the Nile and the Po, the narrow and wide belts of low-lying land which within a recent period have been gained from the sea, are all made up of various kinds of sediment arranged in approximately horizontal layers. Now, over wide regions of the earth’s surface the sedimentary strata still lie horizontally, and we can often tell at what geological period they became converted into dry land. Thus, for example, we know that the elevated plateau through which the river Colorado flows is built up of a great series of nearly horizontal beds of various sedimentary deposits, which reach a thickness of many thousand feet. It is self-evident that the youngest strata must be those which occur at the surface of the plateau, and they, as we know, are of lacustrine origin and belong to the Tertiary period. Now, American geologists have shown that since that period several thousands of feet of rock-materials have been removed from the surface of that plateau – the thickness of rock so carried away amounting in some places to nearly 10,000 feet. Yet all that prodigious erosion has been effected since early Tertiary times. Indeed, it can be proved that the excavation of the Grand Ca¤on of the Colorado, probably the most remarkable river-trench in the world, has been accomplished since the close of the Tertiary period, and is therefore a work of more recent date than the last great upheaval of the Swiss Alps. The origin of the ca¤on is self-evident – it is a magnificent example of river-erosion, and the mere statement of its dimensions gives one a forcible impression of the potency of sub-aërial denudation. The river-cutting is about 300 miles long, 11 or 12 miles broad, and varies from 3000 to 6000 feet in depth.

Take another example of what denuding agents have done within a recent geological period. The Faröe Islands, some twenty in number, extend over an area measuring about 70 miles from south to north, and nearly 50 miles from west to east. These islands are composed of volcanic rocks – beds of basalt with intervening layers of fine fragmental materials, and are obviously the relics of what formerly was one continuous plateau, deeply trenched by valleys running in various directions. Subsequent depression of the land introduced the sea to these valleys, and the plateau was then converted into a group of islands, separated from each other by narrow sounds and fiords. Were the great plateau through which the Colorado flows to be partially submerged, it would reproduce on a larger scale the general phenomena presented by this lonely island-group of the North Atlantic. The flat-topped “buttes” and “mesas,” and the pyramidal mountains of the Colorado district would form islands comparable to those of the Faröes. Most of the latter attain a considerable elevation above the sea – heights of 1700, 2000, 2500, and 2850 feet being met with in several of the islands. Indeed, the average elevation of the land in this northern archipelago can hardly be less than 900 feet. The deep trench-like valleys are evidently only the upper reaches of valleys which began to be excavated when the islands formed part and parcel of one and the same plateau – the lower reaches being now occupied by fiords and sounds. It is quite certain that all these valleys are the work of erosion. One can trace the beds of basalt continuously across the bottoms, and be quite sure that the valleys are not gaping cracks or fractures. Now, as the strata are approximately horizontal, it is obvious that the hollows of the surface have nothing whatever to do with undulations produced by earth-movements. The sub-aërial erosion of the islands has resulted in the development of massive flat-topped and pyramidal mountains. These stand up as eminences simply because the rock-material which once surrounded them has been gradually broken up and carried away. Nothing can well be more impressive to the student of physical geology than the aspect presented by these relics of an ancient plateau. Standing on some commanding elevation, such as Nakkin in Suderöe, one sees rising before him great truncated pyramids – built up of horizontal beds of basalt rising tier above tier – the mountains being separated from each other by wide and profound hollows, across which the basalt-beds were once continuous. Owing to the parallel and undisturbed position of the strata, it is not hard to form an estimate of the amount of material which has been removed during the gradual excavation of the valleys. In order to do so we have simply to measure the width, depth, and length of the valleys. Thus in Suderöe, which is 19 miles long and 6 miles broad, the bottoms of the valleys are 1000 feet at least below the tops of the mountains, and some of the hollows in question are a mile in width. Now, the amount of rock worn away from this one little island by sub-aërial erosion cannot be less than that of a mass measuring 10 miles in length by 6 miles in breadth, and 800 feet in thickness. And yet the Faröe Islands are composed of rocks which had no existence when the soft clays, etc., of the London Basin were being accumulated. All the erosion referred to has taken place since the great upheaval of the Eocene strata of the Swiss Alps.

But if the evidence of erosion be so conspicuous in regions composed of horizontal strata, it is not less so in countries where the rocks are inclined at various angles to the horizon. Indeed, the very fact that inclined strata crop out at the surface is sufficient evidence of erosion. For it is obvious that these outcrops are merely the truncated ends of beds which must formerly have had a wider extension. But while the effects produced by the erosion of horizontal strata are readily perceived by the least-informed observer, it requires some knowledge of geological structure to appreciate the denudation of curved or undulating strata. And yet there is really no mystery in the matter. All we have to do is by careful observation to ascertain the mode of arrangement of the rocks – this accomplished, we have no difficulty in estimating the minimum erosion which any set of strata may have experienced. An illustration may serve to make this plain. Here, for example, is a section across a region of undulating strata. Let the line A B represent the surface of the ground, and C D be any datum line – say, the sea-level. An observer at A, who should walk in the direction of B, would cross successively eight outcrops of coal; and, were he incapable of reading the geological structure of the ground, he might imagine that he had come upon eight separate coal-seams. A glance at the section, however, shows that in reality he had met with only two coals, and that the deceptive appearances, which might be misread by an incautious observer, are simply the result of denudation. In this case the tops of a series of curved or arched beds have been removed (as at E), and, by protracting the lines of the truncated beds until they meet, we can estimate the minimum amount of erosion they have sustained. Thus, if the strata between o and p be 300 feet thick, it is self-evident that a somewhat greater thickness of rock must have been removed from the top of the anticlinal arch or “saddleback” at E.

Again, let us draw a section across strata which have been fractured and dislocated, and we shall see how such fractures likewise enable us to estimate the minimum amount of erosion which certain regions have experienced. In we have a series of strata containing a bed of limestone L, and a coal-seam a. The present surface of the ground is represented by the line A B. At F the strata are traversed by a fault or dislocation – the beds being thrown down for say 500 feet on the low side of the fault – so that the coal at a2 occurs now at a depth of 500 feet below its continuation at a1. At the surface of the ground there is no inequality of level – the beds overlying the coal (a2) having been removed by denudation. Were the missing rocks to be replaced, they would occupy the space contained within the dotted lines above the present surface A B. Such dislocations are of common occurrence in our coal-fields, and it is not often that they give rise to any features at the surface. We may thus traverse many level or gently-undulating tracts, and be quite unconscious of the fact that geologically we have frequently leaped up or dropped down for hundreds of feet in a single step. Nay, some Scottish streams and rivers flow across dislocations by which the strata have been shifted up or down for thousands of feet, and in some places one can have the satisfaction of sitting upon rocks which are geologically 3000 yards below or above those on which he rests his feet. In other words, thousands of feet of strata have been removed by denudation from the high sides of faults. These, as I have said, often give rise to no feature at the surface; but, occasionally, when “soft” rocks have been shifted by dislocations, and brought against “hard” rocks, the latter, by better resisting denudation than the former, cause a more or less well-marked feature at the surface, and thus betray the presence of a fault to the geologist. The phenomena presented by faults, therefore, are just as eloquent of denudation as is the truncated appearance of our strata; and only after we have carefully examined the present extension and mutual relations of our rock-masses, their varied inclination, and the size of the dislocations by which they are traversed, can we properly appreciate the degree of erosion which they have sustained. Before we are entitled to express any opinion as to the origin of the surface-features of a country, we must first know its geological structure. Until we have attained such knowledge, all our views as to the origin of mountains are of less value than the paper they are written upon.

I have spoken of the evidence of denudation which we find in our truncated and dislocated rock-masses; there is yet another line of evidence which I may very shortly point out. As every one knows, there exist in this and many other countries enormous masses of igneous rocks, which have certainly been extruded from below. Now, some of these rocks, such as granite, belong to what is called the plutonic class of rocks; they are of deep-seated origin – that is to say, they never were erupted at the surface, but cooled and consolidated at great depths in the earth’s crust. I need not go into any detail to show that this is the case – it is a conclusion based upon incontrovertible facts, and accepted by every practical geologist. When, therefore, we encounter at the actual surface of the earth great mountain-masses of granite, we know that in such regions enormous denudation has taken place. The granite appears at the surface simply because the thick rock-masses under which it solidified have been gradually removed by erosion.

The facts which I have now briefly passed in review must convince us that erosion is one of the most potent factors with which the geologist has to deal. We have seen what it has been able to effect in certain tracts composed of strata which date back to a recent geological period, such as the plateau of the Colorado and the pyramidal mountains of the Faröe Islands. If in regions built up of strata so young as the rocks of those tracts the amount of erosion be so great, we may well expect to meet with evidence of much more extensive denudation in regions which have been subjected for enormously longer periods to the action of the eroding agents.

The study of geological structure, or the architecture of the earth’s crust, has enabled us to group all mountains under these three principal heads: —

1. Mountains of Accumulation2. Mountains of Elevation3. Mountains of Circumdenudation

1. Mountains of Accumulation. – Volcanoes may be taken as the type of this class of mountains. These are, of course, formed by the accumulation of igneous materials around the focus or foci of eruption, and their mode of origin is so generally understood, and, indeed, so obvious, that I need do no more than mention them. Of course, they are all subject to erosion, and many long-extinct volcanoes are highly denuded. Some very ancient ones, as those of our own country, have been so demolished that frequently all that remains are the now plugged-up pipes or flues through which the heated materials found a passage to the surface – all those materials, consisting of lavas and ashes, having in many cases entirely disappeared. In former times volcanic eruptions often took place along the line of an extensive fissure – the lava, instead of being extruded at one or more points, welled-up and overflowed along the whole length of the fissure, so as to flood the surrounding regions. And this happening again and again, vast plateaux of igneous rock came to be built up, such as those of the Rocky Mountains, Iceland, the Faröes, Antrim and Mull, Abyssinia and the Deccan. These are called plateaux of accumulation, and all of them are more or less highly denuded, so that in many cases the plateaux have quite a mountainous appearance. Of course, plateaux of accumulation are not always formed of igneous rocks. Any area of approximately horizontal strata of aqueous origin, rising to a height of a thousand feet or more above the sea, would come under this class of plateau – the plateau of the Colorado being a good example. Although that plateau is of recent origin, yet its surface, as we have seen, has been profoundly modified by superficial erosion; and this is true to a greater extent of plateaux which have been much longer exposed to denudation. It is obvious that even mountains and plateaux of accumulation often owe many of their present features to the action of the surface-agents of change.

2. Mountains of Elevation. – We have seen that the strata which enter most largely into the composition of the earth’s crust, so far as that is open to observation, consist of rocks which must originally have been disposed in horizontal or approximately horizontal layers. But, as every one knows, the stratified rocks are not always horizontally arranged. In Scotland they rarely are so. On the contrary, they are inclined at all angles from the horizon, and not infrequently they even stand on end. Moreover, they are often traversed by dislocations, large and small. No one doubts that these tilted and disturbed rocks are evidence of wide-spread earth-movements. And it has been long known to geologists that such movements have happened again and again in this and many other countries where similar disturbed strata occur. Some of these movements, resulting in the upheaval of enormous mountain-masses, have taken place within comparatively recent geological times. Others again date back to periods inconceivably remote. The Pyrenees, the Alps, the Caucasus, the Himalaya, which form the back-bone of Eurasia, are among the youngest mountains of the globe. The Highlands of Scotland and Scandinavia are immeasurably more ancient; they are, in point of fact, the oldest high grounds in Europe, nor are there any mountain-masses elsewhere which can be shown to be older. But while the Alps and other recent mountains of elevation still retain much of their original configuration, not a vestige of the primeval configuration of our own Highlands has been preserved; their present surface-features have no direct connection with those which must have distinguished them in late Silurian times. Our existing mountains are not, like those of the Alps, mountains of elevation.

The structure of a true mountain-chain is frequently very complicated, but the general phenomena can be readily expressed in a simple diagram. Let be a section taken across a mountain-chain, i. e. at right angles to its trend or direction. The dominant point of the chain is shown at B, while A and C represent the low grounds. Now, an observer at A, advancing towards B, would note that the strata, at first horizontal, would gradually become undulating as he proceeded on his way – the undulations getting always more and more pronounced. He would observe, moreover, that the undulations, at first symmetrical, as at a, would become less so as he advanced – one limb of an arch or anticline, as it is termed, being inclined at a greater angle than the other, as at b. Approaching still nearer to B, the arches or anticlines would be seen eventually to bend over upon each other, so as to produce a general dip or inclination of the strata towards the central axis of the chain. Crossing that axis (B), and walking in the direction of the low grounds (C), the observer would again encounter the same structural arrangement, but of course in reverse order. Thus, in its simplest expression, a true mountain-chain consists of strata arranged in a series of parallel undulations – the greater mountain ridges and intervening hollows corresponding more or less closely to the larger undulations and folds of the strata. Now, could these plicated strata be pulled out, could the folds and reduplications be smoothed away, so as to cause the strata to assume their original horizontal position, it is obvious that the rocks would occupy a greater superficial area. We see, then, that such a mountain-chain must owe its origin to a process of tangential or lateral thrusting and crushing. The originally horizontal strata have been squeezed laterally, and have yielded to the force acting upon them by folding and doubling up. It seems most probable that the larger contortions and foldings which are visible in all true mountain-chains, owe their origin to the sinking down of the earth’s crust upon the cooling and contracting nucleus. During such depressions of the crust the strata are necessarily subjected to enormous lateral compression; they are forced to occupy less space at the surface, and this they can only do by folding and doubling-back upon themselves. If the strata are equally unyielding throughout a wide area, then general undulation may ensue; but should they yield unequally, then folding and contortion will take place along one or more lines of weakness. In other words, the pressure will be relieved by the formation of true mountain-chains. Thus, paradoxical as it may seem, the loftiest mountains of the globe bear witness to profound depression or subsidence of the crust. The Andes, for example, appear to owe their origin to the sinking down of the earth’s crust under the Pacific; and so in like manner the Alps would seem to have been ridged up by depression of the crust in the area of the Mediterranean. Mountain-chains, therefore, are true wrinkles in the crust of the earth; they are lines of weakness along which the strata have yielded to enormous lateral pressure.

A glance at the geological structure of the Alps and the Jura shows us that these mountains are a typical example of such a chain; they are mountains of elevation. In the Jura the mountains form a series of long parallel ridges separated by intervening hollows; and the form or shape of the ground coincides in a striking manner with the foldings of the strata. In these mountains we see a succession of symmetrical flexures, the beds dipping in opposite directions at the same angle from the axis of each individual anticline. There each mountain-ridge corresponds to an anticline, and each valley to a syncline, or trough-shaped arrangement of strata. But as we approach the Alps the flexures become less and less symmetrical, until in the Alps themselves the most extraordinary convolutions and intricate plications appear, the strata being often reversed or turned completely upside down.

Though it is true that the slopes of this great mountain-chain not infrequently correspond more or less closely to the slope or inclination of the underlying rocks, it must not be supposed that this correspondence is often complete. Sometimes, indeed, we find that the mountains, so far from coinciding with anticlines, are in reality built up of synclinal or basin-shaped strata; while in other cases deep and broad valleys run along the lines of anticlinal axes. All this speaks to enormous erosion. A study of the geological structure of the Alps demonstrates that thousands of feet of rock have been removed from those mountains since the time of their elevation. A section drawn across any part of the chain would show that the strata have been eroded to such an extent, and the whole configuration so profoundly modified, that it is often difficult, or even impossible, to tell what may have been the original form of the surface when the chain was upheaved. And yet the Alps, it must be remembered, are of comparatively recent age, some of their highly-confused and contorted rocks consisting of marine strata which are of no greater antiquity than the incoherent clays and sands of the London Tertiary basin. Now, when we reflect upon the fact that, in the case of so young a mountain-chain, the configuration due to undulations of the strata has been so greatly modified, and even in many places obliterated, it is not hard to believe that after sufficient time has elapsed – after the Alps have existed for as long a period, say, as the mountains of middle Germany – every mountain formed of anticlinal strata shall have disappeared, and those synclines which now coincide with valleys shall have developed into hills. The reader who may have paid little or no attention to geological structure and its influence upon the form of the ground, will probably think this a strange and extravagant statement; yet I hope to show presently that it is supported by all that we know of regions of folded strata which have been for long periods of time subjected to denudation.

3. Mountains of Circumdenudation. – In countries composed of undulating and folded strata which have been for long ages exposed to the action of eroding agents, the ultimate form assumed by the ground is directly dependent on the character of the rocks, and the mode of their arrangement. The various rock-masses which occur in such a neighbourhood as Edinburgh, for example, differ considerably in their power of resisting denudation. Hence the less readily eroded rocks have come in time to form hills of less or greater prominence. Such is the case with the Castle Rock, Corstorphine Hill, the Braids, the Pentlands, etc. These hills owe their existence, as such, to the fact that they are composed of more enduring kinds of rock than the softer sandstones and shales by which they are surrounded, and underneath which they were formerly buried to great depths. Some hills, again, which are for the most part built up of rocks having the same character as the strata that occur in the adjacent low grounds, stand up as prominences simply because they have been preserved by overlying caps or coverings of harder rocks – rocks which have offered a stronger resistance to the action of the denuding agents. The Lomond Hills are good examples. Those hills consist chiefly of sandstones which have been preserved from demolition by an overlying sheet of basalt-rock.