Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836

98

Falkner describes the Indians who inhabit the eastern islands of Tierra del Fuego, to be 'Yacana-cunnees,' and as he designates those who inhabit the Patagonian shore of the Strait by the same name, it might be inferred that they are of the same race; but however closely connected they may have been formerly, they certainly are not so now, for Maria (the Patagonian) spoke very contemptuously of them, and disclaimed their alliance; calling them 'zapallios,' which means slaves.

99

Berberis ilicifolia. – Banks and Solander MSS.

100

The specimen that was found at Port Gallant was sent by me to Mr. Vigors, who considering it, although well known to ornithologists, as never having yet been named, describes it in the Zoological Journal (vol. iii. p. 432, Aug. 1827), as Mellisuga Kingii. Shortly afterwards M. Lesson published it in his Manuel d'Ornithologie (vol. ii. p. 80.), as Ornismya sephaniodes, as a discovery belonging to La Coquille's voyage, in the illustrations of which it is figured at plate 31. I rather think, however, that it is Molina's Trochilus galeritus. – (Molina, i. 275.).

101

Sarmiento, p. 213.

102

Este monte es el que llaman las Relaciones antiguas la Campana de Roldan. – Sarmiento.

103

Here we obtained a second species of the Steamer-duck, which is described in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, as 'Micropterus Patachonicus, Nob.' It differs from the M. brachypterus not only in colour but in size, being a smaller bird, and having the power of raising its body, in flight, out of the water. We called it the 'Flying Steamer.'

104

Or the animal called by Molina 'Huemul.' – R. F.

105

Afterwards examined by Capt. Fitz Roy. It was called Xaultegua by Sarmiento, who very correctly describes it. – (Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 208.)

106

Because they formed a capital leading mark for the Strait of Magalhaens.

107

Beagle Island N. 71°. E., Cape Isabel N. 32°. E., a remarkable mountain in the bight between Cape Santa Lucia and Cape Isabel N. 11°. W. Cape Santa Lucia N. 33°. W.; distance off shore three leagues; and soundings fifty fathoms, sandy bottom.

108

(Sarmiento, p. 65.)

109

The description of Port Henry is given in our Sailing Directions.

110

Thomas Sorrell, now boatswain of the Beagle (1837). He was boatswain of the Saxe Cobourg, when wrecked in Fury Harbour. – R. F.

111

The N.W. end of the Island de la Campana bearing N. 71°. 40′. E. Two distant hummocky islands (answering pretty well in position with the Guaianeco Islands of the Spanish charts) N. 53°. 30′. E., and N. 55°. 48′. E., and a remarkable rock, the 'Dundee' of Bulkeley and Cummings, about forty-five feet high, rising like a tower from the sea, distant offshore five miles, bearing east of us, distant one mile.

112

Length twenty feet five inches and a half, sided twelve inches, and moulded eight inches and a half.

113

Xavier's Island is certainly the Montrose Island of Byron's Narrative. The Wager was lost, as will be seen, more to the southward, on the Guaianeco Islands.

114

This group was afterwards called Hazard Isles.

115

D'Azara, in his Essai sur l'Histoire Naturelle des Quadrupèdes de Paraguay, gives the following account of this animal, which he calls Yagouaré. It burrows in the ground, eats insects, eggs, and birds, when it can surprise them, and moves about the plains and fields both by day and night in search of food; brushing the ground with its body, and carrying its tail horizontally. It regards not the presence of man or beast; unless an attempt be made to injure or take it, when it gathers up its body, bristles up the hairs of its tail, erecting it vertically; and in this position awaits the approach of its enemy, at whom it ejects its urine, which produces so unbearable a smell, that neither man, dog, nor tiger, will attempt to touch the animal.

The yagouaré moves very slowly, and cannot run. It produces two young ones, which are placed at the bottom of its burrow. The unconquered Indians of the Pampas make mantles with the furs of the fox, cavia, or other animals, and border them with the skins of the yagouaré, which are very soft and fine, and would be fit for being employed by the furrier were it not for the disagreeable odour which they impart to every thing they touch. The Indians eat the flesh of this animal, which they irritate until its only means of defence is unavailing, and it can be captured without offensive consequences.

116

From which the Mount (at Monte Video) bore N. 11°. W., distant eight leagues.

117

Specimens of this rock are deposited in the Geological Society's Museum, Nos. 3 and 3-1.

118

See Zoological Journal, vol. iv. p. 92.

119

Nos. 1 and 2 in the Geological Society's Museum. A new species of Solen (Solen Scalprum, nob., Zool. Journ. V. 335. No. 5.) was found on the beach; and the camerated nidus of Buccinum muriciforme, nob., Zool. Journal, l.c. No. 62.

120

Campana, or Bell Mountain. – R. F.

121

I do not think the bay adjacent to Cape Horn is that which was named by D'Arquistade 'St. Francis,' and, if my supposition is correct, Port Maxwell is not the place which was called 'St. Bernard's Cove.' See Second volume. – R. F.

122

According to Capt. Fitz Roy the best berth is in sixteen fathoms. (Sail. Directions.)

123

Nos. 268 to 271, Geo. Soc. Museum.

124

A species of Gunnera (Dysemore integrifolia, Banks and Solander), and the green-stemmed Cineraria (Cin. leucanthema. Banks and Solander).

125

Nos. 283 to 286, in Geol. Soc. Museum.

126

The changes of pressure, during the intervals of ascent and descent, were obtained by registering the ship's barometer, which was done by signal from the stations on shore, when the readings were taken. During the ascent the column fell 0.039 inches, and during the descent rose 0.041 inches. Corrections were made for the dew point, as observed by Daniell's hygrometer at the base and summit, and the calculations were made according to the formula in Daniell's Meteorological Essay.

The following is the result:

127

This rock is very similar to the boulders and pebbles which we found on the beach at Point St. Mary (Freshwater Bay).

128

The underwood is composed chiefly of Arbutus rigida—Berberis parvifolia and ilicifolia– (sempervirens of Banks and Solander). Veronica (decussata?) and, in moist places, Cineraria leucanthema, and Dysemore integrifolia; both of which are found in all the sheltered corners of Tierra del Fuego. No Fuchsia was seen, but Mr. Anderson gathered the sweet-scented Callixene marginata, and a species of Escalonia, on the hill sides.

129

Ann. Meeting, 30th Nov. 1832.

130

The Survey of this part now presents the navigator with the means of ascertaining his position, to a nicety, by angles taken with a sextant between Cape Horn summit and Jerdan's Peak, or Mount Hyde, and Kater's Peak; and if Jerdan's Peak and Mount Hyde be brought in a line, and an angle taken between them and Cape Horn summit, the operation will be still more simple.

131

Miers, in his account of Chile, gives a table of barometrical measurements of the heights of the land between Valparaiso and Mendoza, from which it appears that he has deduced the height of Curacavi to be 1,560 feet. As my determinations are the results of observations made on my way to and from Santiago, I have no doubt of their correctness, and think that the registered height of Miers's table should be 29.355 instead of 28.355.

132

The following are the results of the barometrical determination of the height of various points on the road between Valparaiso and Santiago: —

133

Sharp frosts sometimes occur. – R. F.

134

Probably they are the same as we observed on the fish taken by us off Cape Fairweather, and which, I believe, to be nearly allied to the one that is figured in Cuvier's Règne animal, Plate XV. figure 5, a species of Lernæa, or Entomoda of Lamarck, iii. 233. The species is new.

135

This was a remarkable instance of what I often observed afterwards in those regions, a kind of 'ignis fatuus,' which sometimes was stationary, like the light of a lanthorn, and at others suddenly flitting, like the flashes of pistols, at a distance. It was only seen upon the lower hills. – R. F.

136

Each officer and man, when detached from the Beagle during a night, carried a blanket, or large poncho (sewed up, and with a drawing-string, like a large bag), in which he slept, and found much comfort and warmth. – R. F.

137

Like a roebuck; supposed to be the 'Huemul' mentioned by Molina. – R. F.

138

Black-necked swan, noticed elsewhere by Captain King. – R. F.

139

Noticed previously by Captain Stokes. – R. F.

140

At the western entrance of the Strait the water is said to be generally a few degrees warmer than at the eastern. – R. F.

141

Geol. Soc. Museum, Nos. 176 to 205, and Zool. Mus.

142

By angular measurement it was found to be 2,270 feet.

143

The wristbands of our shirts, and all our outer clothes, were coated with ice, while our inner clothing was wet through.

144

On heaving up the best bower, we found it had lost one fluke.

145

The Adventure arrived on the 21st. – P. P. K.

146

Por milagro (miraculously); as the inhabitants told me. – R. F.

147

I do not think that there is any opening at the bottom of Keats Sound; which lies at the base of a chain of snow-covered mountains, whose southern side I have closely traced. – R. F.

148

In the old Dutch charts, a passage was laid down near the place, and nearly in the direction of the Cockburn Channel, and named 'Jelouzelt:' but until some written authority can be produced to prove that this passage was explored, or, at the least, discovered by the person who gave the name of 'Jelouzelt' to one of the almost innumerable openings in Tierra del Fuego, it does not appear that the inlet so called has any claim to our consideration, greater than that of the non-existing San Sebastian Channel, – or a number of other imaginary passages which must have been laid down, upon supposition only, in many old charts.

The first person known to have passed through the Cockburn Channel was the mate of the Prince of Saxe Cobourg, who went in a boat (see page 66). It was afterwards passed by Mr. William Low, master of the Mercury, and has since been used by several vessels.

149

Since surveyed by Capt. Fitz Roy in the Beagle, 1829-30.

150

San Carlos, in Chilóe.

151

Mr. Kirke.

152

A heap, or stack of corn.

153

No doubt the Mount Oracion of Sarmiento, p. 144. – P. P. K.

154

This place is described in Sarmiento's journal, p. 144. – P. P. K.

155

Ensenada de la Oracion of Sarmiento. – P. P. K.

156

This bay is also described by Sarmiento as an 'Ancon sin salida,' p. 143; but it is evidently not the one that bears that name on the chart. – P. P. K.

157

Here is certainly the Ancon sin salida of Sarmiento, whose journal describes the inlet as terminating in a cove to the north, p. 142. The mountain of Año Nuevo cannot be mistaken; indeed the whole of the coast is so well described by the ancient mariner, that we have little difficulty in determining the greater number of places he visited. In all cases we have, of course, preserved his names. The chart compiled by Admiral Burney is a remarkable instance of the care which that author took in arranging it, and how ingeniously and correctly he has displayed his judgment; it is also a proof that our favourite old voyager, Sarmiento, was at least correct in his descriptions, although he appears to have been quite ignorant of the variation of the compass. – See Burney Coll. Voyages, p. 31; and Sarmiento, p. 162.

158

'Cordillera Nevada' of Sarmiento.

159

A very full and detailed account of this journey is given by Agüeros, in his 'History of the Province of Chilóe,' pp. 50 to 56, as well as in the 'Chronicles of the Province of Lima, by Padre Fr. Diego de Cordova,' Salinas, chap. xvii. p. 485.

160

Agüeros, l. c. p. 57.

161

Agüeros describes its boundary thus: – It is situated between the latitudes 41° 30′ and 44°; from Point Capitanes to Quilan. On the north it is bounded by the territories of the Indian tribes Juncos and Rancos, which extend to Valdivia; on the N.E. by those of the ancient but destroyed city Osorno; on the south by the archipelago of Guaitecas and Guaianeco, and others which extend to the Strait of Magalhaens; on the east by the Cordillera; and on the west by the sea. (Agüeros, p. 61.)

162

When the Yntendente, or governor of the province, visited Castro for the purpose of taking a census of the population, a family of Indians waited upon him to render an account of their property; who, upon being asked whence they came, replied, "Del fin de la Cristiandad." The name being new to the Yntendente, it was explained to him that they belonged to Caylin, which was more generally known by the above name, because there existed no Christian population beyond, or to the southward of, that island.

163

In the year 1783 there were 23,447 (Agüeros): and in 1832, 43,830.

164

A kind of beech, found every where on these shores. The literal meaning of Roble, is oak. – R. F.

165

Native of Chilóe. – R. F.

166

Agüeros says, "both men and women go generally with the foot and leg uncovered; with the exception of the principal families; but even those do not all wear shoes." – (Agüeros, p. 108.)

167

Places where seal congregate – so called always by the sealers.

168

Potatoes are not mentioned in the report, yet they must have been exported in considerable quantities.

169

When moderately laden they are stiff under sail; and are not such very bad sea-boats, if properly managed. – R. F.

170

Molina, i. 167. A species of 'Dolichos.'

171

The fanega weighs 175 lbs. and contains twelve almudes, which being cubic measures of eight inches and a half, contain each 614.125 cubic inches; therefore a fanega contains 7369.5 cubic inches, and as an English bushel contains 2150.4 cubic inches (2150.4 x 175)/7369.5 = 516⁄10 lbs. the weight of a bushel.

172

Molina notices the 'Cagge,' or 'Chilóe duck,' (Anas antarctica) vol. i. p. 268, and calls it Anas hybrida. M. Lesson, in his 'Manuel d'Ornithologie,' ii. 409, has taken great pains to describe it, and remarks, with reason, that much obscurity exists in the specific descriptions of the goose kind in the Malouine (Falkland) Islands, and the extreme southern land of America. The male, Lesson says, is white, the feet and beak of a bright yellow colour. All the specimens that we saw, and numbers were killed by us, had a black beak with a red cere—otherwise M. Lesson's description is correct. In many specimens, however, we found the tip of the primary wing feathers black, which is not to be wondered at when the colour of the female is considered, but which it is not an easy task to describe. M. Lesson, I think, has done it justice in a note to his vol. ii. p. 409:—"Anas antarctica. A capite griseo, genis gulo colloque albo et nigro acuti-striatis; oculorum circuitu nudo: pectore abdomineque omninò atris, atque vittis niveis notatis: tectricibus alarum nigris; dorso uropygio caudâ et ano albis; alis niveis cum speculo lato virescente, brunneo marginato; pennis longis aterrimis; rostro et pedibus, aurantiacis."

These birds are very common in the Straits of Magalhaens, and every where on the west coast between the Strait and Chilóe; also at the Falkland Islands.

The Cancania (or Canqueña) is the Anas Magellanica, Anser Magellanicus (Ency. Méth. p. 117). From Buffon's description, and a well-drawn but badly-coloured figure, in the Planches Enluminées, No. 1006, I have no hesitation in assigning it to that kind. The colour of the head, however, instead of being 'reddish purple,' is cinereous with a reddish hue; the feathers of the sides and thigh covers are white, with five black bars, the extremity being white; the central portion of the abdomen is white; the speculum of a splendid shining green. This bird is common to the Strait as well as to Chilóe, and is probably Byron's 'Painted Duck,' and the Anser pictus of the Ency. Méth., p. 117. M. Lesson considers Anas leucoptera, Gmel. as the male of Anas Magellanica, which may be doubted. The 'Barking Bird,' as our sailors called it, was first brought to me by Capt. Stokes, having been shot during the Beagle's visit to Port Otway, in the Gulf of Peñas. It was an imperfect specimen; but Mr. Tarn afterwards obtained for me several others. It seems to have a great affinity to the genus Megapodius; but no specimens of that genus being in England when I was last there, and the Barking Bird differing in essential points from M. Tenminck's description of the genus, and from the figured specimen of Megapodius Freycinettii;—particularly in the length and form of its wings, which are rounded, and so short as not to reach beyond the base of the tail;—also in the emargination of the upper mandible;—I have been induced, by Mr. Vigors' advice, to form it, provisionally, into a new genus, termed Hylactes. (See Proc. Zool. Soc., vol. i. p. 15.) There is another specimen in our collection (now in the Zoological Society's Museum), which will probably be placed in this genus, but there existed some uncertainty in essential points, which prevented my describing it before I left England.

173

Among the numerous testaceous productions is a small shell, which constitutes a new genus. Marinula, nob. in Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 343. It was found on the wooden piles which support the mole in the bay of San Carlos, below the wash of the high water. The mole stands out into the sea, and there is no fresh water near it, save a very little rill, which discharges its tiny stream more than fifty yards off. This shell was named Marinula Pepita, Zool. Journal, l. c. No. 43. The following is its generic character: – 'Testa ovato-producta, sub-solida; apertura ovata, integra; columella bidentata et basin versus uniplicata; dentibus magnis sub-remotis conniventibus, superiori maximo; operculum nullum.'

174

Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 333.

175

Some have since been found on the north-east side of the Guaytecas Islands.

176

Chaura. Una murta que no se come. Febres, Dict. of the Chileno language. It is, however, edible, and has rather a pleasant flavour.

177

The small-pox was introduced into the island, in the year 1776 by a ship from Lima; but it was confined to San Carlos, and was soon eradicated. The measles also were introduced by similar means, in the year 1769; but did not re-appear after once ceasing.

178

See orders to Captain Fitz Roy, in the Appendix.

179

See orders to Lieut. Skyring, in the Appendix.

180

Phil. Journal, and Annals of Philosophy, for March 1831 (new series x.), 220.

181

Juan Fernandez is called 'de Tierra,' because it is nearer the mainland than another adjacent island, which is called 'Mas-a-fuéra' (farther off, or more in the distance).

182

Anson's Voyage, p. 118.

183

Arca angúlata. See Zool. Journal, vol. v. p, 336.

184

Trochilus Fernandensis, nob. Troch: ferugineo-rufus; capitis vertice splendento-coccineo; remigibus fuscis. Long. 5 uncias.

Trochilus Stokesii, nob. Troch: corpore supra viridi-splendente, subtus albo, viridi-guttato; capite supra, guttisque confertis gulæ lazulino-splendentibus: remigibus fusco-atris; remigum omnium, mediis exceptis, pogoniis internis albis. Long. 4½ uncias. Proceed. Zool. Society, vol. i.; also Phil. Magazine, for March 1831, p. 227.

185

Pinoleo (from 'Pino,' pisando; and 'leo,' rio; or, pisando sobre el rio, living close to the banks of a river), is the Chief of a small tribe, whose territory is near the River Imperial; but he generally lives in the confines of Concepcion. He has four wives in the interior (la tierra) and three in the town.

186

Hall's Extracts from a Journal, vol. i. pp. 316. 322.

187

In Febres 'Arte de la lengua de Chile' they are thus described "Ahujas grandes con una plancha redonda de plata como una hostia, ò mayor, con que prenden las mujeres sus mantas – Certain large bodkins, with a round silver plate, as large as, or larger than, an oyster, with which the women fasten their mantles."

188

The ornament on the forehead, which is worn only by unmarried women, is called Trare-lonco, from the old Chilian words trarin, to fasten, and lonco, the head. The bracelet is called Anello curo; the anklets, Anelleo.

189

Not since the first Spanish conquest, perhaps. – R. F.

190

From 'Mari,' diez, and 'loan,' huapo: whence Mariloan means 'huapo como diez,' or, 'equal to ten men.'

191

I believe that the natives who have canoes of the kind described above, do not go near the Hermite Islands, on which Cape Horn is situated. – R. F.

192

The same comet was seen at the Mauritius; and its orbit calculated. See Ast. Soc. Proceedings, and Phil. Journal.