The History and Antiquities of Horsham

This forest has ever been the subject of the legends of neighbouring peasants, woe (according to their account) to the luckless wight, who should venture to cross it alone on horseback during the night, for no soon will he have entered its darksome precincts, than a horrible decapitated spectre in the shape of a former squire Paulett, disregarding all prayers or menaces, leaps behind him on his good steed, and accompanies the affrighted traveller to the opposite boundaries. – The celebrated St. Leonard also, through whose efficacious prayers

“The adders never stynge,Nor ye nyghtyngales synge,”

in its gloomy mazes is often the theme of the cottagers fire side conversation.

But neither ghost, nor cast iron, nor saint Leonard himself, have gained for this forest so much celebrity as its famous DRAGON, or serpent! This venemous reptile, which some persons have rendered into some obnoxious proprietor, has been honoured with a long and minute description in the following account.

“True and wonderful, A discourse relating to a strange monstrous serpent or dragon, lately discovered, and yet living to the great annoyance and divers slaughters both of men and cattle by his strong and violent poyson, in St. Leonard’s forest, and thirtie miles from London, this present month of August, 1614, with the true generation of serpents. Printed at London by John Trundle 1614.

In Sussex there is a pretty market towne, called Horsam, neare unto a forest called St Leonard’s forest, and there in a vast unfrequented place, heathie, vaultie, full of unwholesome shades and overgrown hollowes, where this serpent is thought to be bred; but wheresoever bred, certaine and too true it is, that there it yet lives. Within three or four miles compass are its usual haunts, oftentimes at a place called Faygate, and it hath been seene within half a mile of Horsam, a wondre no doubt most terrible and noysome to the inhabitants thereabouts. There is always in his tracke or path, left a glutinous and slimy matter (as by a small similitude we may perceive in a snail) which is very corrupt and offensive to the scent, in so much that they perceive the air to be putrified withall, which must needs be very dangerous: for though the corruption of it cannot strike the outward parts of a man, unless heated into blood, yet by receiving it in at any of our breathing organs, (the nose or mouth) it is by authority of all authors writing in that kinde, mortal and deadlie; as one thus saith,

‘Noxia serpentum est admixto sanguine pestis. – Lucan.’

The serpent, or dragon as some call it, is reputed to be nine feete or rather more, in length, and shaped almost in the forme of an axle-tree of a cart, a quantitie of thickness in the middest, and somewhat smaller at both ends. The former part which he shootes forth as a necke, is supposed to be about an ell long, with a white ring as it were of scales about it. The scales along his backe, seeme to be blackish, and so much as is discovered under his bellie, appeareth to be red: for I speak but of no nearer description than a reasonable ocular distance; for coming too neare, it hath already been too dearely paid for, as you shall heare hereafter. It is likewise discovered to have large feete, but the eye may be deceved, for some suppose that serpents have no feete, but glide along upon certain ribbes and scales, which both defend them from the upper part of the throat unto the lower part of their bellie, and also cause them to move much the faster. For so this doth, and rids away as we call it, as fast as a man can run. He is of countenance very proud, and at the sight or heareing of men and cattle, will raise his necke upright, and seem to listen and looke about with great arrogancie. There are likewise on either side of him discovered two great bunches, so big as a large footeball, and as some think will grow to wings, but God I hope will so defend the poor people in the neigbourhood, that he shall be destroyed, before he growe so fledge. – He will cast his venome about 4 roddes from him, as by woeful experience it was proved on the bodies of a man and woman coming that way, who afterwards were found dead, being poysoned and very much swelled, but not preyed upon. Likewise a man going to chase it and as he imagined to destroy it with two mastiff dogs as yet not knowing the great danger thereof, his dogs were both killed, and he himself glad to returne with haste to preserve his own life: yet this is to be noted that the dogs were not preyed upon, but slaine and left whole, for his food is thought to be for the most part in a conie warren, which he often frequents, and it is found to be much scanted and impaired, in the encrease it had wont to afford. – These persons, whose names are here under printed, have scene this serpent, besides divers others, as the carrier of Horsam, who lieth at the White Horse, in Southwark, and who can certifie the truth of all that hath been herein related. —

“John Steele,“Christopher Holder,“And a widow woman dwelling at Faygate.”

Previously to the reformation, St. Leonard’s forest contained two chapels, one of which is mentioned as early as the year 1320. No traces of either remain at the present day.

Proceeding from Horsham along the London road, and passing Thornton ville, a collection of houses lately erected by the person resident at Springfield, we arrive at Coolhurst, the delightful and elegant mansion of the Marchioness of Northampton: the vicinity of this seat was lately rendered particularly interesting by a romantic and beautiful glen called Dubbin’s Green, one of the wildest and most secluded spots in the district, but it is greatly to be lamented, the enclosing of the adjacent common, has almost entirely destroyed the beauty of the scenery, and robbed the visitor of a truly rural and picturesque treat. Continuing along the turnpike road for some distance, and then inclining to the right, the pretty little village of Nuthurst, with its modest spire peeping amidst the lowly cottages which constitute the single street is display before the sight. To the east of the parish is a portion of St. Leonard’s forest, and a part of the parish of Cowfold: to the west Horsham, and part of Broadwater; to the north another portion of the forest; and south Cowfold. The district is peculiarly rich and beautiful, abounding in springs of excellent water in every direction. The church, of the time of Edward III, and dedicated to St. Andrew, is in the early style of English architecture, with a low tower, containing 3 bells, and surmounted by a low shingled spire, at the west end. The roof is pannelled in a similar manner to the church at Horsham; the ribs and knots of two pannels are gilt and painted. The communion window contains remnants of stained glass, representing the Salvator Mundi, and two angels scattering incense. The monumental inscriptions are to the memory of Joseph Tuder esq. of Sedgewick park, 1774: Rebecca Nelthorpe his niece, 1784; William Nelthorpe esq., 1791: Elizabeth Nelthorpe 1801; Eliza Sarah wife of James Tuder Nelthorpe esq. of Nuthurst lodge, died at Paris 1826, and was interred in the cemetry of Pere la chaise; John Aldridge of New Lodge, 1803: John Warburton Aldridge son of the above, 1801: Samuel Aldridge 1773: Sophia Aldridge 1769. The font is plain and octagonal.

Near Nuthurst in a very delightful situation, commanding extensive views of the sea and south downs, is Nuthurst Lodge, the residence of James Tuder Nelthorpe esq.: at a very short distance from the mansion, are the remains of an ancient castle or hunting seat, surrounded by an oute and inner moat, of a circular form, and traceable everywhere; the foundations of the walls are quite visible, and one apartment of a sexagonal shape is entirely perfect. About 40 yards farther on, surrounded by copse wood, and over hanging trees, is a small well of a circular form, and surrounded by cut stone overgrown by moss: a flight of winding steps, leading to it, from an adjacent eminence, adds a peculiarly romantic and pleasing effect to this venerable work of antiquity, which is known by the name of the Nun’s Well. No account is to be found of its history, though it may perhaps have belonged to the neighbouring castle. The traditions among the inhabitants affirm, that a subterraneous passage connects this castle with the nunnery at Rusper, which is 8 miles distant, but no attempt has been undertaken to ascertain the truth of this conjecture. Passing over Tower Hill, an eminence near Horsham, we arrive at the village of Itchingfield, or Hethinfield as it was formerly called. The earliest notice of this place, is to be found in an ancient deed A.D. 1233, when “Hugh de Mabel and Susanna his wife, sold to Robert atte Feching, one messuage and half a carucate of land, at Hethinfield.” The parish is bounded on the east by Horsham, south by Shipley, west by Shipley, and north by Slinfold, and contained in 1831, 349 inhabitants. The church dedicated to St. Nicholas is of the time of Henry III, or Edward the I. Its exterior is particularly rustic especially the low tower at the west end, which is formed of entire trunks of trees fastened together by wooden bolts. Against one of the walls of timber in the belfry is an ancient painting representing Moses receiving the ten commandments on mount Sinai, it was most probably used as a kind of altar piece.

In the chancel is a mural monument to the memory of Richard Wheatly gent, ob. 1668, and some members of his family, who were nearly allied to the Mitchells of Field place. There is also another inscription to the memory of the Rev. Alexander Hay, former rector of the parish, 1724, also several of his children. Dallaway mentions that after the Scotch rebellion in 1715, some of the attained persons took refuge in the woods of Itching field, and were permitted to reside with their countryman Alexander Hay; indeed we can hardly imagine a more suitable place for concealment, than the parsonage house, situated as it was at that time, in the centre of a dense forest, through which there was hardly any passable road.

The last monumental inscription is for the Rev. Thomas Lavender a most exemplary minister of this parish, for upwards of 60 years, he died in the year 1776, at the age of 86.

The font is modern, but particularly neat and handsome; one of a very ancient description, was lately dug up in the churchyard.

Proceeding along the turnpike road to the west of Horsham and passing Farthing Bridge, of which the annexed wood-cut is a representation, we reach Broad-bridge Heath, a delightful, picturesque, and salubrious plain, so called: by pursuing the centre road, the visitor will arrive at Stroud, a small hamlet about 3 miles from Horsham; it is chiefly remarkable for the elegant residence denominated Stroud park, belonging to – Commerell esq.: the grounds around the house particularly deserve attention, and the sweetly retired situation of the fishing house, erected upon the banks of a lake surrounded by the majestic and noble trees for which this district is so justly celebrated, whilst the deep silence which pervades the whole, interrupted only by the rippling stream beneath, and the delightful choir of the feathered songsters, combine to render it, in every sense of the word, a most enchanting and delightful scene.

By taking the road to the left hand, on Broad-bridge heath, and again turning to the right at Lion’s Corner gate, the village of Slinfold, to which the hamlet of Stroud belongs, soon appears in sight. “Fold” observes Mr. Dallaway, “is a termination frequently belonging to parishes within the weald and in distinction to Hume seems to be applied to those which were first cultivated in square inclosures, after the removal of timber and underwood. This observation belongs to the early Saxon æra; and it is evident that the name of almost every vilor or farm within the district is derived from them.” The church build at the end of the village, was erected at the formation of the parish by bishop Ralph in 1230. It has a nave and north aisle with a small sepulchral chapel appendant. In this portion of the church which belongs to the manor of Dedisham, is a curiously sculptured female figure, destitute of any inscription, but traditionally said, to belong to a member of the family of Tregoz. – There are also two other mural monuments, with small painted alabaster effigies of women in the ancient dress of their times. The first of which we give a sketch, appears particularly “en bon point,” and is represented kneeling on a cushion, in the act of prayer. The following inscription, now almost illegible, appears beneath.

The remaining monument is to the memory of mistress Jane Blount, ob. 1614.

In the pavement is a large slab of Sussex marble, with an inscription to the memory of Richard Bradbridge gent., and Denys his wife, with their children, ob. 1633.

The tower is massive, and like all those in the Weald, surmounted by a spire of shingles, supported upon four upright beams of a length and diameter very seldom seen.

This parish which is bounded on the east by Warnham, west by Rudgewick and Billinghurst, north by Rudgewick, and south by Itchingfield, approaches nearer in form to a circle than any other, and is intersected in several directions by 3 turnpike roads. From the excellent slate quarries in the vicinity, slabs containing 100 square feet, and about 5 in thickness have often been raised. Several rare botanical plants are found in this parish, some indigenous, and others originally introduced by Dr. T. Manningham a former rector, well versed in that science.

The late eminent antiquary Mr. Warton, observes in his history of Kiddington, page 65, “About 5 years ago, (1775) on the edge of a lane in the parish of Slinfold in Sussex, four miles from Horsham, I saw several deep fissures in the Stane street, a Roman road, going from Arundel, if not from the sea side through Dorking to London. The dorsum not intended for heavy carriages consists of sea gravel and sea pebbles abounding on the Sussex coast, above 3 feet deep, and 7 yards long: these minute materials must have been amassed with prodigious labour.

Springfield, a handsome brick mansion to the north of the town, is the property of Francis Scawen Blunt esq., who now rents it to – Thornton Esq.

INNS AT HORSHAM

COACHES

Coaches pass daily to and from London, Brighton, Worthing, Windsor, Oxford, and Reading. – The Horsham and London Star Coach leaves the Swan inn West Street, at 7 o’clock every morning, and reaches the old Bell inn Holborn about a quarter to 12: from thence it starts the same afternoon, at a quarter past 3, and arrives at Horsham by 8.

GAS

The streets are now well lighted with gas, considering that this is the first year of their illumination. The gameter is erected at the back of Albion Terrace, another specimen of the improving state of the town. The good people of Horsham have lately been much annoyed by the dirty condition of their streets, occasioned by the insertion of the gas pipes, even to such an extent as almost to merit the ancient epithet of the county, as we find in a very old verse, or rather ryhme of the peculiarities of each shire.

Essex ful of good hoswifesMiddlesex ful of shyves,Kentshire hoot as fyre,Sussex ful of dyrt and myre.

PLANTS

RHYNCHOSPORA ALBA

SCIRPUS CARINATUS

ERYOPHORUM POLYSTACHION

CONVALLARIA MAJALIS

LUCIOLA FOSTERI

POLYGONUM BISTORTA

ABOXA MOSCHATELLINA

MONOTROPA HYPOPITYS

PYROLA MEDIA

NYMPHÆA ALBA

CARDAMINE IMPATIENS

EUPHORBIA ESULA

CAREX CURTA

CAREX STRIGOSA

ASP IDIUM OREOPTERIS

ASPIDIUM THELYPTERIS

OSMUNDA REGALIS

LYCOPODIUM SELAGO

PHASCUM ALTERNIFOLIUM

GYMNOSTOMUM FASCICULARE

NECKERA PUMILA

CALICIUM FERRUGINEUM

ARTHONIA SWARTZIANA

VARIOLARIA VELATA

PARMELIA SPECIOSA

SCYPHOPHORUS PARASITICUS

CHARA GRACITIS

SAURIAN REMAINS

The strata around Horsham, (which is situated in the Wealden formation) are celebrated for the abundance of the exuviæ, of large saurian animals. – Many of the bones of the Iguanadon, an enormous reptile, which was formerly an inhabitant of these districts, are now in the possession of Mr G. B. Holmes, of Horsham, by whom these particulars are obligingly communicated. The animal which more nearly approximates to it, than any other now in existence, is the Iguana Cornuta a native of the tropical parts of America, and from its resemblance to which it has received its name; but more particularly on account of the teeth of the Iguanadon, which resemble those of no other animal than the Iguana, of which one species (the Cornuta,) has, like the Iguanadon, a single horn. If we take the Iguana as our model, and attempt to reconstruct the enormous Iguanadon in just proportion, from the relics which have been frequently exhumed, we shall produce a monster 100 feet in length, which there is every reason to believe is not an exaggeration. – Besides the Iguanadon, we find the bones of the crocodile, the Plesiosaurus, the turtle, and other amphibious reptiles; with the carbonized remains of monocotyledoneous plants, arborescent ferns, and palms, &c.

WATER

The water around Horsham is of a very superior quality, and extremely abundant. It is intended shortly to supply each house by means of pipes. At Tower Hill, is a spring, by whose waters every thing over which it passes is encrusted, in consequence of its depositing a small portion of carbonate of lime, with which it is impregnated in passing the limestone strata, through which it flows.

POPULATION

The population of Horsham, has of late years greatly increased, and at present amounts to nearly 6000. The following table will afford a view of its advance during the present century.

ROADS

Horsham, though at present remarkable for the excellent state of its turnpike roads, was, before the year 1750, one of most extraordinary instances of non communication in the kingdom: previously to the abovementioned period, the London road was so execrably bad, that whoever went there on wheels, was compelled to go round by Canterbury!

It is intended to make the great London and Brighton rail road pass through the town, which cannot fail to encreas the business and traffic of the place.

FAIRS

The fairs of Horsham are on April 5th: Monday before Whitsunday, sheep and lambs: July 18th cattle and pedalary; the Cherry fair; Sep. 5th. cattle: Nov. 27th. cattle and toys. Last Tuesday in every month, for cattle.

“Nicholas Hostresham, whose name is contracted to Horsham, may justly be placed in this town, as descended from it; families of note often taking their names from their places of residence; and if that be admitted, he will give some lustre to it, for he was a very learned man, and so famous a physician, that the nobility coveted his company on any conditions, so high an esteem had they for him. It seems it was something of a peculiar art in him, to cure and yet to please his patient, which he would not do nevertheless it was consistent with the disease; for his aim was, to cure and please if possible, but displease if unavoidable. He was of a middle temper, neither so rough as to affright, nor so gentle, as to humour his patient into his own destruction; so that he was almost two physicians in one man. He died in the year 1448.”

(From a survey of the county of Sussex, printed in the year 1730; at present in the possession of Miss Cove, Albion Terrace.)

Finis

APPENDIX

Having principally confined the limits of the foregoing account, to a circle of about 4 or 5 miles around the town of Horsham, we have omitted previously to notice the priory of Rusper, a building of great antiquity, and closely connected with that borough, by the endowment of the church to its nuns. Very little of the ancient edifice remains at present, I shall therefore insert a very brief account of the nunnery, as given by Sir William Burrell, in his interesting MSS. preserved in the British Museum.

“On the north wing of the east front of the nunnery, towards the orchard, the foundations of additional building, and the arch of a cellar are visible, 58 feet in extent, and east of the present house. It is probable a similar wing was on the south aspect and thereby formed a Greek II. The ancient apple trees which cover the flank, render such an idea very problematical.” Near the building is a very deep well, said to have been used as a place of destruction for those members of the convent, who had dared to break their vows of chastity.

Near Mrs Delves tomb at Horsham, is the headless brass figure of an ecclesiastic, supposed from the letters T C in the cope, to cover the remains of Thomas clerk, a former rector.

1

Dallaway page 355 vol 2.

2

Declaration of Chantries in the Augmentation office.

3

Dallaway.