The History and Antiquities of Horsham

Howard Dudley

The History and Antiquities of Horsham

The ancient town and borough of Horsham, which has generally been past over in topographical accounts, as a place unworthy of notice; or lost in the dazzling descriptions, of the “modern maritime Babylon of Sussex,” must always remain a spot, dear to the lover of antiquities, and romantic scenery. The derivation of its name, has ever continued a matter of great perplexity; which perhaps may be considered as a very strong argument, in favour of the antiquity of the place. Some persons conjecture, that the appellation is derived from the two Saxon words, hurst, and ham, the first syllable signifying a wood, and the second a village or collection of houses: and this opinion seems to be supported by the known fact, that this part of the county, was formerly one entire tract of forest land: but again quite as good if not a superior derivation, may be taken from the two words, Horsa, and ham, that is the village of, or built by, Horsa.

Horsham has enjoyed the privilege of sending two members to Parliament, ever since the year 1295: by the passing of the reform bill, however, one representative was considered sufficient for the business of the borough. The names of the persons first elected for the town, were Walter Burgeys, and Walter Randolf: Robert Henry Hurst esq. is the present member.

The spring assizes for the county, had also long been held in the Town-Hall of Horsham; but this privilege was selfishly abstracted from the town, by the inhabitants of Lewes; and even the county gaol, which has been stationed here, for time immemorial, is, we understand, to be removed to the all devouring eastern rival: the quarter sessions however, are still held here.

Still, notwithstanding, as respects the town, Horsham is greatly improving: the number of buildings which have been lately erected, and which are still erecting, are of a new and very handsome description: the streets are neatly paved, with the large flat stones procured from the excellent quarries in the neighbourhood; and the illumination of the streets by gas, which is being carried on with great spirit and energy, contribute very greatly to the general respectability and good appearance of the place.

Horsham consists of 4 principal streets, crossing one another at right angles, with a large square, stretching due N. and S., in the centre. The upper part of this square is commonly denominated the Gaol Green, in consequence of the prison, which formerly stood at the northern end, but of which two large walls, now found useful in an adjacent brewery, only remain.

The northern side of the edifice, though perhaps not quite equal to the southern, appears to great advantage, though the modern windows, which have been subsituted in several instances for others of great antiquity, add greatly to diminish the general effect.

On entering the church by the eastern gateway, the interior of the structure appears to the highest advantage: the large and beautifully simple communion window, reaching almost from the basement to the roof, is by no means the least attractive object of attention; while the handsome appearance of the altar, raised by a flight of several steps, covered entirely with crimson cloths, the unusually large extent of the communion rails; and the numerous beautiful monuments, in every direction, afford a very elegant appearance, perhaps not to be equalled by any other parochial edifice in the county. Yet at the same time, the venerable roof of oaken planks; the large yet highly sculptured beams which have weathered nearly a thousand years; the tattered escotcheons; the crested helmets; and the antique tombs, afford a view at once pleasing and romantic. – Some attempt has been made to illustrate this portion of the church, (the chancel) in the annexed engraving, but no drawing can do justice to the original building.

The dimensions of the church are as below.

The roof is supported upon wooden ribs, crossed by others of the same materials: the joints are covered by ornamented plates of iron, of very grotesque descriptions: in the nave, the ribs are almost double the distance apart, of those in the chancel: the junction of the roof and walls, in the latter portion of the edifice, are adorned with curious little figures of horses, foxes, &c. &c. interspersed with stars, and many other similar devices.

The entire edifice is supported upon eight columns on either side: three constituting the chance, and the remaining five the nave: the galleries are particularly neat, more especially that appropriated to the organ, the whole of the pewing being covered entirely with green baize. The lancet windows, with which the church was formerly furnished, have almost all been altered for others of a later date, except in the clerestory, where they retain their original form. The large east window, before mentioned, was formerly adorned with no less than 14 coats of arms richly painted. The roof was put up, at the time that the Norfolks were lords of the borough: in the year 1825, a curious old inscription was discovered upon the summit of the walls, reaching from one end of the church to the other, but it was very remarkable, that the centres of all the letters, (which were about a foot in length) were entirely, and apparently designedly effaced, so that not the slightest meaning could be discovered from it.

In the chancel, is the curious and remarkable effigy of Thomas lord Braose ob. 1396. This noble and ancient family were formerly almost the sole proprietors of the county of Sussex. One of their residences was at Chesworth, an ancient mansion to the south of the town, which shall afterwards be described; and Bramber Castle also near Steyning, originally appertained to these powerful barons. The head of the figure, “is defended by a basinet, ornamented by a draplet of jewels, his throat by the ample carmail, attached to the helmet as in the time of Edward III. His arms are in plate armour, and his body in a shortened hauberk, kept from pressing on his chest, by means of the plastron, or breast-plate, within. Over this is the juppon, bearing his coat of arms, viz. seme of cross croslets, a lion rampant crowned. Suspended from his military girdle at his right hip, is his dagger, the sheath of which, is ornamented in an architectural style, and in the same manner at the left, hung his long sword, of which no traces now remain. On his insteps, are large pieces attached to the spur leathers, and terminated by indented edges which conceal the chain mail beneath. His jousting helmet, surmounted by his crest, a demi-lion rampant, issuing from a coronet, is under his head, but greatly mutilated, all below the oscularium, having been destroyed.” 1

At a very small distance from the above mentioned monument, is a very beautiful altar tomb of white marble, relieved alternately by slabs of black: upon this is an admirable and most elaborately executed figure, of a lady, in long flowing robes, her right hand reclines upon her breast, while her left rests upon the Holy Scriptures, in a peculiarly graceful manner: it is the work of Francis Fanelli, an Italian sculptor, of great eminence in his day, and has escaped the devastation generally inflicted on works of art in the parochial edifices of Sussex; the inscription is as follows.

Here lyeth (expecting a joyfull resurction,) the body of Elizabeth, late wife of Thomas Delves Esquire, son and heire apparent to Sr. Henry Delves of Dvddington in the Covnty of Chester, Barronet, who deceased the 2nd day of December 1654, being somewhat more than 25 yeares old; then in childbed of Henry their 2nd son, who with Thomas their eldest son did both survive her. She was enriched with many ornaments, both of mind and body, and memorable for virtue, in the several relations of her life, whereunto she was any way engaged, being religious as she was a Christian, dutiful as a daughter, affectionate as a wife, tender as a mother, discreete in her family as a Mistris, charitable in the relation of a neighbour, also of a sweet and affable disposition and of a sober and winning conversation. She was the only child of Hall Ravenscroft Esq.r of this parish, by the mother descended of ye Staplays of this county. Her sorrowful husband, sadley weighing such a considerable losse, erected this monument, that an impartiall memorial of her might bee the better communicated to posterity.

On the south side, are the arms of the deceased with the motto “In Dieu ma foy”.

According to Dallaway, mention is made in the visitation book of Philpot and Owen, A.D. 1634, of two other monuments, not at present remaining. “Under the communion table,

Hic jacet William Hoo armiger, qui obiit 2do mensis Sept. 1465

Arms, Hoo impaling a fess.

On a marble stone,

Orate pro animab, Thomæ Cobert et ejus uxor qui quidem Tho. ob. 1495.

Arms, two shields, 1 Covert, impaling a phaon’s head: 2 impaling, a chevron, 2 roundlets, in chief a buck’s head caboshed.”

Under the organ gallery, is a curious brass of a man and woman, in the antique dress of the time, with the following inscription, in Gothic characters, below them.

Here lyeth Richard Foys, and Elizabeth his wife: which Richard deceased in 21 day of April, MDLCIII.

Affixed to one of the columns supporting the organ gallery, is a small slab of white marble, with a frame of black: the inscription in black letter runs thus.

In this seat is interred the body of Thomas Pyke Barber and Chyrurgeon, who departed this life the 16 day of Nov., in the year of our Lord MDLXXXI; and in remembrance of him, this monument was erected by his brother Wm. Pyke.

At a very small distance from this tablet, the annexed inscription can be discovered upon a stone in the middle cross aisle.

Here lyeth Robert Hvrst of Hvrst hill, who died a. d. 1483, Nicholas his son, A.D. 1533, and Richard son of Nicholas Feb. 16th a. d. 1592.

The other monumental inscriptions are to the following persons.

John Mitchell of Stammerham 1610, Mary his wife daughter of William Gresham gent. of Surrey, 1610; Maurice Barrow gent. 1778; John Parsons esq. 1702; Cecilia Maria his wife 1700; Mrs. Olive Eversfield, only sisters to Mary wife of Charles Eversfield, of Denne place, 1704; Rev. Geo. Marshall, 35 year officiating minister of this parish, 1819; Charles Eversfield of Denne place, and Mary his wife; Sir Charles Eversfield Bart., 1784; Mrs. Olive Eversfield 1803; Anna Maria Willemot Thornton, 1824; William Jamieson vicar of Horsham 1821; Edward Tredcroft, 1768; Mary Tredcroft, 1794; Sarah and Henry Du Cane Cap. Richard Marriott, 1805, the beautiful female figure which surmounts this monument, is the work of Westmacot, Tristram Revel, lieut. col. 1797; Rev. T. White 1788; Thomas Brien sen. 1741; Mrs Mary Jenden 1802; John Smith esq. 1758; Elizabeth Smith; 1780; Griffith Smith 1663; Charles Smith 1689; Adam Smith 1789: Harriet Smith 1800; Mrs Martha Longhurst 1750; John Foster 1750; Elizabeth Foster his wife 1743; John Medwin eldest son of John Charles & Mary Medwin, unfortunately killed by a fall from a gig, at the foot of Picts hill near Horsham, 1806; Lieu. Henry Clough Medwin 1815; Henry Ellis 1785; Mrs Ann Godwin 1822; George Cheynell 1747; Elizabeth his wife, 1781; John Eversfield esq. 1669. Besides these there are slabs to the memory of the following individuals. – Thomas Waller: Thomas Dunball: Mary Woodyear: William Norman: John Higgen: Thomas Buen: Henry Waller: John Rowland: Hannah Howes: Ann Curtis: John Pilfold: Robert Hall: William White: William Griffith: Henry Griffith: Ann Griffith: Hen. Groombridge: Elizabeth Hewet: Henry Ellis: Henry Groombridge: Judith Jeamison: Samuel, Sarah, and Catherine, Wicker: Matthew White: Francis Read: James Waller: John Middleton esq.: Ann Chourn Isabella Ramsden; Sir Bysshe Shelley Bart. of Castle Goring: Mary Catherina his wife: Catherine their daughter. All of these monuments, with the exception of six, belong to the last century.

The font constructed of Sussex marble, is octagonal, and handsomely sculptured: date 1455.

The following inscriptions are noticed in the Burrel MSS. (British Museum,) which at present do not remain.

In mortem Georgii AllenQuod fuit esse, quod est, quod non fuit esse, quod esse,Esse quod est, non esse quod est, non est erit esse:Vita malis plena est, pia mors pretiosa corona est;Post vitam mors est, post mortem vita beata est.

In the window of the North chancel, was the following, in Gothic characters.

Orate pro anima, Wiliemi Attwood de Horsham et Aliciæ uxor ejus, quæ istam fenestram fieri fecit; A.D. 1428.

“Madam Eversfield (according to Dallaway) gave one silver flaggon, two silver cups, one basin for oblation, gilt; pulpit cushion and cloth, with gold fringe, and a branch of candlesticks to the body of the church. Two dozen of penny loaves, to be disposed of among the poor every Sunday, that frequent the church, for ever; the gift of Mr Theobald Shelley.” “The same person with the Lady Matthews, gave this portion of bread to be disposed of every Sunday for ever, for the encouragement of the poor to frequent the church.” This is inscribed in front of the organ gallery. In the parish registers mention is made of an attack of the plague, by which this place was afflicted, though happily not to a very alarming extent, they commence in the year 1560. Over the vestry, (which was built in the reign of Edward VI) is a very curious old room reached by means of a spiral stair-case, terminated by a trap door: the oaken roof depends entirely upon a large beam in the centre. It is called the Lollard’s tower, and was most probably used as a place of confinement for that unfortunate sect: the apertures for light are thickly guarded by double iron bars, and in one place, on the north wall, the remains of an iron ring are visible: the only thing of any consequence in this cold and cheerless apartment, is a large oaken chest, curiously carved, with a secret drawer of superior workmanship. The beautiful service of communion plate is also kept here.

In the Roffy chancel is the beautiful monument of Mr Jamieson; the figure of the angel above, pointing upwards, is exquisitely sculptured, and deserves much attention. Dallaway mentions that there appear to have been two chantries and a brotherhood founded in this church, whose history is rather obscure, in some measure contradictory; the first he adds, “was built by Walter Burgess who in the year 1307, obtained a license to endow with 50 acres of land, a chaplain to celebrate divine service daily in the parish church of Horsham, for the souls of himself and his successors. The other was denominated Butler’s chantry, and was founded by one John Body and others by the lycens of King Hen. VI, for one chapleyn to say diligent service for ever, as th’aulter of St Michauel in the church of Horsham; to pray for the soulles of King Henry &c.; the said chapleyn to have for his wagis vijlr for the year, for ever, which hath been continued accordingly till about viij yeares past, at which time Sir Will, Brandon, clerk, then incumbent, sold the same unto Sir Roger Copley, and after such sale by him made, he the said Sir William, did sing after the space vj yeares, and the said Sir Roger Coqley paid him his wagis.’” “Horsham, – Butler’s Chantry. – William Brandon of th’age of – yeares, was last incumbent there, but not resident, since anno reg. xxvij who sold his interest to Mr Copley for viijli xi s. ij d. 2 At the west end of the building is a large massy tower, lately put into thorough repair, this is surmounted by an octagonal spire, 230 feet in height, and formed of wooden shingles carefully fitted together. The great bell of this church is the largest in the county, and weighs nearly a ton and a half: the whole peal, consisting of eight, is extremely melodious.

On the 17th of November 1231, John de Braose granted the church of Horsham with all its appurtenances, to the prioress and nuns of Rusper, for their exclusive use; by same deed it was also ordained, that on account of the size of the parish, and the number of inhabitants, the vicar who shall officiate in the church from time to time, shall have one chaplain as his assistant, and two subordinate ministers, viz. a deacon and sub-deacon, to officiate with him in the same church. At the dissolution of monastic establishments, in the reign of Henry VIII, the Archbishop of Canterbury came into the patronage of the vicarage.

The county gaol is situated in East street, upon a very elevated site; it was erected about 50 years since, by William Griffith, who ruined himself, by contracting for the building: it is a neat and handsome structure, and extremely appropriate for the purpose, on the South is a small garden extending along the front of the building, which has two court-yards, of about half an acre each, with a gravel walk surrounding a fine grass-plot, and the whole is encircled by a lofty wall. To prevent confusion or danger in case of fire, every cell is arched over with brick, and a separate room allotted to each debtor and felon. The chapel is in the keeper’s house, where prayers are read daily, and a sermon delivered every Sunday by the chaplain. The annual salary of the keeper is 180l.: that of the Chaplain 160l. and of the Surgeon 70l. per annum: the matron and the three male turnkeys receive 8s. each weekly: the internal management is regulated by rules made at the quarter sessions, and confirmed by the judges of assize.

“Richard Collier by his will dated Jan 23 1532, benevolently left a small estate, at Stratford le Bow in the county of Middlesex to be sold, and the product to be laid out in the purchase of a school house at Horsham, where he was born.” 3 The children enjoying the privileges of this charity, are annually selected by the vicar and churchwardens with eight of the most “honest” inhabitants, they are allowed to remain till the age of 14 and any number may at the discretion of the school wardens, be instructed in the Latin language. It is expressly ordered in the will, that the children elected, should be the offspring of “poor people, in especial of the said parish, and next about the same, to be educated in reading, writing, arithmetic, and the principles of the Christian religion.” The charitable founder also bequeathed to the Mercers’ Company, a house and premises in Cheapside London, for the support of the master and usher, whose annual salaries are, 120l. for the former, and 80l. for the latter. The school house is situated in a peculiarly delightful and romantic situation, with a pleasant croft in front, extending to the east side of the church yard; the accompanying wood-cut represents the west front of the building.

The National School is held in the church porch, where great numbers of the younger children of the poor are instructed.

A very neat building, denominated Denne School, has been erected in a delightful situation, at the foot of the hill, from which it takes its name, for the education of the girls of the neigbouring indigent persons.

In the back lane, the members of the church of England, have instituted an infant school, which appears a very pleasant object in this hitherto neglected portion of the town.

The Royal British Schools are also well worth the inspection of the visitor: the boys are taught reading, writing, grammar, linear and perspective drawing &c.

To the North of Horsham, on Hurst hill, is Moated House, formerly belonging to the family of the Westons: this mansion was the residence of Robert Hurst ob. 1483, whose monument in the church, the reader will remember.

Nearer the town, is a very ancient building formerly belonging to lord Hoo and de Hastings, whose remains are interred in the church: a farm house at present the property of the duke of Norfolk alone marks the site of this once splendid and princely edifice.

Chesworth, one of the oldest houses in the county, was formerly as before said, the residence of the noble family of Braose, this truly romantic structure is situated a little to the south east of the town, of which it is one of the chief objects of interest. The unfortunate Thomas duke of Norfolk, who fell a victim to the malignant jealousy of Queen Elizabeth, was apprehended here, A.D. 1571. It is said that the papers concealed by Higford, and which led to his conviction, were discovered under the roof of this building. Several apartments of very spacious dimensions, but of whose existence the inhabitants were totally ignorant, were discovered through accident, by a maid servant about 20 years since. The chapel now used as a wash-house, is still quite perfect, and of great height: several niches for the statues of saints, and receptacles for holy water, may be discovered in the sides: through the falling of part of the wall, a few years ago, several Roman coins were dug up, from which circumstance, it has been by some persons imagined, that the place was originally a Roman villa.

To the west of the town, is Hills place, or rather the remains of an elegant residence, so called; it was formerly the property of the lords Irvine, and was considered a very handsome specimen of the domestic architecture of the age, in which it was erected. It was taken down a few years since, and no vestige left to mark its site, save the remnants of a farm house in existence before the building of the mansion itself, and part of a wing added to the structure, on the marriage of lord William Ingram, one of the family.

In one of the upper rooms, is a venerable escocheon, with the motto “In cœlo quies,” serving to exclude the wind from the antique chamber.

On a lofty eminence denominated Denne hill, the visitor may obtain a very beautiful view of the town of Horsham, with its adjacent hills behind, the interesting church appears by far the most conspicuous object in the wide extended landscape, while the small and winding branch of the river Arun, which takes its rise in the adjacent forest of of St. Leonard, contributes not a little to heighten the beauty, and diversify the scene, of this truly delightful and extensive prospect.

At a short distance from the spot where this romantic view may be obtained, the ivied tower, and venerable battlements of Denne house, proudly rise upon the sight. The spot upon which this edifice stands, is particularly interesting, being generally supposed by antiquarians to be the site of a Danish encampment, during a conflict with the Picts, who made choice of an opposite eminence, still retaining the name of Pict’s hill, while the one we have just described preserves the appellation of Denne (undoubtedly derived from Dane) hill. The estate formerly belonging to the family of Braose, was forfeited to the crown, with other lands, on the attainder of Thomas duke of Norfolk into whose possession it had fallen: in the year 1594, it was awarded by Sir William Covert and Sir John Caryll to James Boath, by whom it was sold five years afterwards to Stephen Barnham of London for 1250l. Shortly afterwards however the two sons of the last mentioned person, parted with it to Sir Thomas Eversfield for the sum of 5500l.

After passing through the hands of several of his descendants, it devolved to William Markwick esq, who took the name of Eversfield, and to whose grandson a minor it now belongs.

Warnham Court, a handsome mansion in the style of Elizabeth, and a very striking feature of the surrounding country, was erected about three years since, by Henry Tredcroft esq.: the house contains about 50 apartments, and is built of brick faced with stone: the grounds are tastefully arranged, and the park, though so recently laid out, assumes a beautiful and verdant appearance.

To the south of Warnham, is Field Place, the residence for several centuries of the family of Mitchell. The only daughter of the Rev. Theobald Mitchell, married the late Sir Bysshe Shelley, by whose son Sir Timothy, it is now possessed. Percy Bysshe Shelley, the celebrated poet and friend of Byron, was born here: a brief but interesting account of his life, may be found in Horsefield’s “History of Sussex” vol. 2nd. under the description of Warnham.

To the east of Horsham, is a tract of land, containing between eight and nine thousand acres, called St. Leonard’s forest: although its nearest point is seven miles from the upper part of Beeding, it is within the limits of that parish: the chief part of the soil is poor, it contained considerable quantities of iron stone, which was smelted, but as the timber became exhausted, the smelting of the iron has been long discontinued, and nothing remains to denote the former manufactory of cast iron, but several large ponds in various parts of the forest, still called Hammer ponds.