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The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 2
PORTSMOUTH. ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR
In the front of this view, and towards the right, a man-of-war cutter is seen running out of the harbour; and, from her heel to leeward, and the agitated state of the water, we may perceive that it is blowing a stiff breeze. Vessels of her class are chiefly employed in the coast-guard service and as admirals' tenders, or as packets on short voyages, or in communicating between one naval depôt and another. In the distance, to leeward of her, the Dock-yard semaphore is perceived; and more to the right, but nearer to the eye of the spectator, is seen the Round Tower; from which, in former times, an immense chain used to extend to the Block-house at Gosport, on the opposite side of the channel, for the purpose of protecting the entrance to the harbour, in the event of its being assailed by the ships of an enemy. Towards the centre of the engraving a broad-side view is presented of the Port-Admiral's flag-ship, a first-rate, which, from the flags at her mast-head, appears to be making a signal; ahead of her, in the distance, the hulls are perceived of two ships of war, laid up in ordinary; and further to the left is seen part of the Block-house Fort, at Gosport, with a beacon, to direct vessels in making the harbour.
Portsmouth harbour is one of the most secure and commodious in the kingdom; and from the depth of water, both within it and at its mouth, ships of the line can enter or depart at all times of the tide. From the narrowness of its entrance, – which, between the old Round Tower at Portsmouth and the Block-house Fort at Gosport, is not wider than the Thames at London-bridge, – it is protected from the swell of the sea; while it is sheltered from the violence of winds blowing off the land, by the range of hills to the northward. Immediately above its entrance the harbour begins to expand, and about a mile and a half above the old Round Tower it is nearly two miles in breadth. It then branches off into three principal creeks, or leats, as they are frequently called; one of which runs up to Fareham, another to Porchester Castle, and the third to Portsbridge. In these creeks most of the men-of-war in ordinary are moored. As those ships, when laid up, are each covered over with a large wooden roof, to protect them from the effects of the weather, they appear, when seen from Portsdown Hill, which commands an excellent view of the harbour, not so much like floating castles as like immense floating barns – ample garners, which would contain more corn than the swords and cutlasses of their former gallant crews, beat into reaping-hooks, will ever cut down!
At Portsmouth the tide flows about seven hours and ebbs about five; and the velocity with which the ebb tide runs out effectually scours the channel at the mouth of the harbour, and prevents the accumulation of sand. It is high water in the harbour at half-past 11 o'clock at the full and change of the moon; and the rise of spring tides is about eighteen feet, and of neaps about twelve. In the months of March and April the specific gravity of the water in Portsmouth harbour becomes so much increased, that ships lying there are observed to float about two inches lighter than at other times of the year. The latitude of the Observatory in the Dock-yard is 50° 48' 3" north; longitude 1° 5' 59" west.
Though Portsmouth does not appear to have been a place of much consideration as a naval station previous to the reign of Henry VIII., who may be regarded as the first English King that established a permanent royal navy, it was yet undoubtedly a town of some consequence long before that time. In 1194, Richard I. granted a charter to the inhabitants, wherein, after declaring that he retains the town of "Portsmue" in his own hands, he establishes an annual fair to be held therein for fifteen days, to which all persons of England, Normandy, Poictou, Wales, Scotland, and all others, either foreigners or his own people, might freely resort, and enjoy the same privileges as at the fairs of Winchester, Hoiland, or elsewhere in his dominions. The burgesses of "Portsmue," as the place was then called, were also allowed to have a weekly market, with the same privileges and immunities as those of Winchester and Oxford; with freedom from all tolls of portage, passage, and stallage, and exemption from suit and service at hundred and county courts.9 This charter was confirmed in 1201 by King John, and in 1230 by Henry II.; and in 1256 the latter monarch granted another charter, establishing a guild of merchants at Portsmouth. The privileges of the burgesses were at several different times confirmed by succeeding kings; and, in 1627, Charles I. granted them a charter, whereby a mayor and twelve aldermen were appointed for the civil government of the town. This charter, which was renewed by Charles II., has since been modified by the Municipal Reform Bill of 1835, which directs that the borough shall be divided into six wards, which shall elect a town council of forty-two members. In 1298 the borough was summoned to send two members to Parliament, a privilege which it continues to enjoy.
PORTSMOUTH. RIGGING-HULK, WITH A NEW FRIGATE ALONGSIDE
In this engraving we have a view of a new frigate, with only her lower masts in, lying alongside of the Topaze rigging-hulk. The latter vessel – which now presents so clumsy an appearance, from her bows and sides being sheathed with a stout doubling of timber, and from a wooden house being built over her stem – was formerly a French frigate, and, when she first came into our possession, she was much admired by nautical men for the beauty of her build. Further in the distance, to the right, is seen a first-rate lying off the Dockyard Quay, partly rigged; and, beyond her, are perceived the immense wooden roofs which cover the building-slips. The line of building to the right is the rigging-house, and the tower erected above it is the Dockyard Semaphore. On the extreme right, towards the front, is seen the forepart of a mooring-lighter, with one of the numerous spar-booms lying afloat near the Common Hard. The original picture was exhibited in the Gallery of the British Institution, where it excited general admiration.
The great naval depôt at Portsmouth is partially described in connection with other engravings in this work, and we have therefore thought it might be interesting to occupy our present space with some details respecting the peculiar mode in which one very important portion of the rigging is manufactured in this yard, and which forms a principal object of curiosity to all persons visiting it. We allude to the machinery for manufacturing blocks, invented by Mr. Brunel, the celebrated engineer.
After the wood – generally elm – for the shell of the block is cut into proper sizes by circular-saws, its complete formation, including the pin and the sheave, is effected by means of several different machines, all contrived with the greatest mechanical skill, and put in motion by a steam-engine. The first process is that of the boring-machine, which, by means of a centre-bit, pierces a hole to receive the pin, and at the same time, according as the block is intended to be single or double, forms one or two similar holes, at right angles to the former, to receive the first stroke of the chisel which cuts out the space for the sheave. By the second, called the mortising-machine, this space is cut out by a chisel acting vertically, and making about a hundred and twenty strokes a minute, and under which the block is caused to move gradually, so that at each stroke a thin piece of the wood is cut away. After this the block is taken to a circular-saw, which cuts off the corners, and reduces it to the form of an octagon. The shaping-machine, to which it is next taken, consists of two equal and parallel wheels moving on the same axis, to which one of them is permanently fixed, while the other is moveable in the line of the axis, so that, by sliding it nearer to the former, or more apart, as may be required, the shells of blocks of all sizes may be fixed between their two parallel rims. Ten shells of the same size being firmly fixed at regular intervals between those rims, the wheels are put into motion with extreme velocity, and the shells are rounded by striking against a cutting instrument, which at the same time moves in such a manner as to give to each block its proper shape and curvature. When one half of the side has thus been finished, the motion of the wheels is reversed, and the other half finished in the same manner. When one side has been rounded, the shells are reversed, and the other side completed as above. The last process which the shell undergoes consists in scooping out the groove for the strap, or "strop," as the rope is called, which goes round the block. The shell is now completed, and the visitor is next shown the different processes in forming the sheave and the pin.
The sheaves are generally made of lignum-vitæ; and the first operation is performed by a circular-saw, which cuts the wood into pieces of a proper thickness. By a second machine the holes for the pins are bored, and they are formed into perfect circles by means of a crown-saw. The third, called the coaking-machine, is an admirable specimen of mechanical ingenuity. By its operation, a small cutter drills out round the pin-hole – to a certain depth from the flat surface of the sheave – three semicircular grooves, for the reception of the metal coak, or bush, which sustains the friction of the pin. So truly are those grooves formed, that the slight tap of a hammer is sufficient to fix the coak in its place. The fourth operation consists in casting the coaks. By a fifth, after being fitted in the grooves, holes are drilled in the coaks, for the reception of the pins which fasten them to the sheaves; and by a sixth the pins are rivetted. By the seventh operation, the central hole in the coak for the pin, on which the sheave turns, is drilled out. By the eighth, the groove for the rope is turned round the circumference of the sheave, and its sides polished. In the ninth, the iron pins, on which the sheaves revolve, are cast, turned, and polished; and on their being inserted, the block is complete and ready for use.
PORTSMOUTH. VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM
The correctness of this view will be immediately recognised by every person in the least acquainted with Portsmouth. The platform, from which it is taken, forms the grand promenade of the inhabitants, and is usually the first place visited by strangers, on account of the prospect which is thence obtained. Immediately in front of the engraving is seen the northern extremity of the platform, on which are two soldiers, who seem indulging themselves with a leisurely inhalation of the fresh breeze from the water, after having liberally expended a portion of their own breath in sounding their bugles at parade. Beyond the platform, the most conspicuous object is the Government Semaphore, with three flags displayed as a signal; and to the left, the landing-place called the King's Stairs. Beyond the old round tower is seen the flag-ship of the Port Admiral; and, between her and the gun-brig which is running in, a distant view is obtained of the Town Hall of Gosport.
Portsmouth, one of our greatest naval depôts, is situated near the south-western extremity of the island of Portsea, in the county of Hampshire, and is about seventy miles S.S.W. of London. Adjoining to it, on the northward, is the town of Portsea; and to the south-east, without the walls, lies the suburb of Southsea. The three places may be considered as forming one large town, under the general name of Portsmouth, the aggregate population of which is about 50,000. The population of Gosport, which lies to the westward of Portsmouth, on the opposite side of the harbour, is, with that of the adjacent hamlet of Stoke, about 12,000. The docks and naval storehouses are within the precinct of Portsea; the hospital and the victualling establishment are at Gosport; and the offices of the Port Admiral and the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor are at Portsmouth, within the lines of which are also the barracks for the accommodation of the garrison. Portsmouth is strongly fortified by a circuit of bastions and a moat, which enclose the town on the landside, and which are connected with a similar line, extending in a semi-circular form round the landside of Portsea. In the event of a siege, it would require 14,000 men to form an efficient garrison for the united towns. The situation of Portsmouth is low and marshy; and the peculiar smell which arises from the mud at low water, and from the moat, may be perceived at the distance of two or three miles, in approaching the town from the northward.
The principal church at Portsmouth stands in St. Thomas'-street, and nearly in the centre of the town. It is dedicated to St. Thomas à Becket, and was erected between 1210 and 1220, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester. The transept and the chancel are the only parts which remain of the original structure, the nave and side-aisles having been rebuilt in 1692. At the same time the old tower, which formerly stood above the intersection of the transepts and the nave, was taken down, and the present one erected at the western entrance. It is surmounted with a cupola, and its height is about 120 feet.
With the exception of the older parts of St. Thomas' Church, which afford one or two good specimens of the Gothic style, Portsmouth contains but little in the shape of architectural antiquities that is likely to attract the notice of the stranger. The building, above which the Semaphore is erected, near the northern extremity of the saluting platform, was, in former times, the residence of the governor of the town. Previous to the suppression of the monasteries and religious houses, it belonged to a Domus Dei, or hospital, which was founded in 1238. A part of the church of this hospital is yet standing at a short distance to the south-east of the Semaphore, and near to the grand parade. It is now the garrison chapel; and against its walls are placed numerous monuments erected to the memory of officers, both naval and military, who have died in the service of their country.
"A tomb is theirs on every page,An epitaph on every tongue;The present hour, the future age,For them bewail, to them belong.For them the voice of festal mirthGrows hushed, – their name the only sound;While deep remembrance pours to worthThe goblet's tributary round.A theme to crowds who knew them not,Lamented by admiring foes;Who would not share their glorious lot!Who would not die the death they chose!"10GOSPORT
Gosport, of which our engraving represents a view, is a small, but important town, adjoining Portsmouth, from which it is separated by a wide channel, forming part of the extensive basin known as Portsmouth Harbour, and containing a large number of our "wooden walls;" some in a condition ready to put to sea at a few hours' notice, others lying in ordinary, as it is termed, that is, without rigging, sails, or other fittings requisite to render them complete and efficient for service, but which are speedily provided when required. Portsmouth, Gosport, and the neighbouring towns – including Portsea and Landport – form one extensive fortified position, protected at every point from the attacks of an enemy; they are enclosed by broad earthworks, along the extent of which are mounted heavy guns, commanding the various drawbridges which cross the moat surrounding the works. At a short distance from the town is a large range of barracks for the marines, capable of accommodating upwards of a thousand men – a portion of the building, including the house of the commandant, has but recently been completed. Near this is a new prison, devoted entirely to military occupation; it is a substantial building of red brick, and well adapted for the accommodation of its inmates consistent with its character as a penal establishment.
Close to the harbour, and within the fortifications, is an immense pile of imposing appearance, called the Clarence Victualling-yard; the most interesting feature of which is, the admirable but simple steam-machinery employed in making biscuits for the navy. In the precincts of this immense depository are also included a cooperage, brewhouse, and slaughterhouse, which supply the navy with the stores requisite for their various destinations, including wines and spirits, of which a large stock is constantly kept here. The quay at which her Majesty embarks for her private residence, Osborne House, in the Isle of Wight, is situated in this yard, which is connected with the main line of the South-Western Railway, by a small branch running from the terminus, devoted solely to the use of her Majesty and the Lords of the Admiralty. There are two churches in the town, St. Mathew's, near the entrance to the Clarence-yard, and Trinity; the former consists entirely of free sittings, the latter is a chapel of ease to the parish church, situated at Alverstoke, a small village, at a distance of little more than a mile from the town. There are also a Catholic chapel, two Wesleyan chapels, and two Congregational chapels in the town.
Of late years the neighbourhood of Gosport has much improved; many handsome and commodious villas, and other residences, having been erected at various times. Anglesea, which adjoins Alverstoke, is quite a new neighbourhood, and has but recently come into existence, consisting principally of residences for the gentry during the summer months. The town of Ryde, in the Isle of Wight, is situated opposite to this spot, and between them lies the Solent, which at times is enlivened by the appearance of some ships of war lying at anchor, and frequently of large fleets of merchant ships detained here from stress of weather, or waiting a favourable wind to convey them to their respective destinations. At the mouth of the harbour, on the Gosport side, is situated Blockhouse Fort, opposite to a similar one on the Portsmouth side, embrasured with heavy guns for protecting the entrance to the harbour, which is approached only by a circuitous channel, commanded on the one side by the guns of Southsea Castle, and on the other by those of Fort Monckton, at a short distance from which has recently been erected another fort, to protect the entrance to the Southampton Water. Adjoining Blockhouse Fort are barracks for the Royal Artillery, and at Fort Monckton, barracks for infantry. Near the latter is Haslar Hospital, devoted to the reception of sick members of the navy and marines; it is a handsome quadrangular building of red brick, and affords accommodation for a large number of patients; within its walls are included a church, and a Museum of Natural History, which is well supplied with specimens, and to which additions are being continually made by the officers and gentlemen connected with the service. At the foot of the High-street, Gosport, is the landing-place for passengers by the steam ferry, or floating bridge, as it is called, which plies between Gosport and Portsmouth every half-hour, and forms the only means of communication for carriages and vehicles of all kinds. In addition to the steam ferry is a staff of watermen, busily plying their calling during the absence of the bridge, and securing the stray passengers that may prefer their mode of transport, or have arrived too late for the other conveyance. During certain states of the weather, the danger and difficulty of managing their boats entitle the watermen to increased fares, which are indicated by certain coloured flags hoisted conspicuously over the town hall, near the beach, and regulated by a person appointed by the licensing magistrates. The climate of this part is healthy, and well adapted for persons with weak lungs, or affections to which a cold, keen, air would be unfavourable.
MEN-OF-WAR AT SPITHEAD
In this Engraving (a vignette) is presented a stern-view of a seventy-four, with her guess-warp booms11 out, moored at Spithead. To the right is a victualling hoy, dropping alongside of the seventy-four; and in the distance is seen a first-rate. The time is evening, which invests the whole scene with its calm. We may conclude that the day has been fine, as both ships seem to have availed themselves of the opportunity thus afforded of "drying hammocks;" they are seen suspended from their yards and between their masts.
The roadstead of Spithead, which is sufficiently large to afford convenient anchorage for nearly all the ships of the British navy, lies between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight; and the usual place in which ships of war ride is about three miles distant from Portsmouth harbour. It derives its name from the Spit, or end of a sand bank, extending from the western shore of the estuary towards Southsea Castle, about a mile below Portsmouth. The channel for the harbour, from Spithead, is comparatively narrow, and is commanded by the batteries at Southsea Castle. To the westward of Spithead is the sand called the Motherbank, on the edge of which merchantmen generally anchor; and to the north-eastward are St. Helen's roads, a frequent rendezvous as well for ships of war as for vessels in the merchant service. All these roadsteads are protected from southerly winds by the high land of the Isle of Wight.
Within the last few years considerable interest has been excited by the attempts which have been made to raise the guns, and various other articles, belonging to the Royal George, which sank at Spithead on 29th August, 1782. This ship carried 108 guns, and was considered one of the finest in the navy, had just returned from sea, and, as she had made more water than usual for some time before, it was at first intended that she should go into dock. The surveying officers, however, having discovered that the leak was not very far below the water-line, it was resolved to repair the defect, with a view to saving time, by giving the ship a heel as she lay at her moorings at Spithead. On subsequent examination, it was found that a pipe which supplied the water for washing the decks required to be replaced, and, as it lay considerably below the water-line, it became necessary to give her a greater heel than had been at first contemplated. For the purpose of effecting this, some of her guns and part of her ballast were removed to the opposite side. As the ship lay thus considerably inclined on her side, she, from some cause that has not been clearly ascertained, gave an additional heel, and the water rushing in through her lower-deck ports, which had been carelessly left open, she almost instantly filled and sank, carrying down with her a victualling hoy that was lying alongside. At the time of the accident there were nearly twelve hundred persons on board, of which number about nine hundred, including two hundred and fifty women, were drowned. Among the sufferers were Admiral Kempenfelt and several of the officers. About three hundred persons, chiefly belonging to the ship's crew, were saved. Admiral Sir P. Durham, at that time one of the lieutenants of the Royal George, was on board when the accident happened, and saved himself by swimming to the shore.
Mr. Kingstone, of the Portsmouth dockyard, who went down to the wreck in a diving-bell in 1817, gives the following account of its appearance at that time: – "The quarter-deck, forecastle, and roundhead, with the larboard topside as low down as the range of the upper deck, are entirely gone. The oak-strakes and midships of the flat of the upper deck are much decayed by worms in several places so as to show the beams and framing beneath. The whole of the fir appears as sound as when first laid. The deck is much twisted, from the ship's falling so much fore and aft. The wreck has a beautiful appearance when viewed about a fathom above the deck, being covered with small weeds, interspersed with shells, star-fish, and a species of polypus, lying on a thin, greasy, grey sediment. All below the deck is a perfect solid of fine black mud; and, when suspended over the larboard side, she appears a rude mass of timber lying in all directions."
During the summer of 1853, Spithead was the scene of a grand marine review and sham fight. Her Majesty and Prince Albert were present, with a numerous suite of naval officers. The nautical skill displayed on the occasion received the highest encomiums from those best qualified to judge of its value; and the merit of the screw propeller, as attached to vessels of war, was strikingly manifested.
BRIGHTON
Brighton is in the county of Sussex, and lies about fifty-two miles south of London. The old name of the town was Brighthelmstone, which some antiquaries suppose to have been derived from Brighthelm, a Saxon bishop; while others suppose that it may be derived from the Saxon beorht, briht, berht, and byrt, signifying bright; heal, a light-house or watch-tower, a corner or point of a wedge, a hall; and the word tun, or ton, signifying a town.