Brittany

Vannes is situated at the distance of 5 kilometres from the Morbihan, the inland sea that gives its name to the Department. Almost every day two little steamers leave the port for the islets, but the time of starting depends on the tide. The Gulf of the Morbihan is some 8 miles long and about 15 miles wide. It communicates with the sea by a narrow mouth only three-quarters of a mile across. It is nowhere deep; from 45 to 60 ft. is its depth. It is studded with low islands, of which at the outside forty are inhabited and some fifty are cultivated. The inhabitants live by fishing, and all the men are sailors.

This inland sheet of water is cut off from the ocean by two great crab's claws, the peninsula of Sarzeau and that of Locmariaquer. The scenery is by no means bold; sandy shores and low islets, and mud banks at the fall of the tide. The archipelago is, however, very interesting because of the numerous prehistoric remains on the islands.

The Isle of Arz is about two miles long. Here was formerly a priory dependent on S. Gildas, and it possesses a Romanesque church, unhappily repaired and remodelled at various epochs. Near the little Cap de Brohel and in the islet of Boëdic are megalithic monuments. At Penraz, south-east of the village, is half of a cromlech or circle of stones 60 ft. in diameter. At Cap Brohel, ruined dolmens and fallen menhirs; at Pen-lious three fallen dolmens and some menhirs. P. 8th September.

Ile aux Moines is separated from the Ile d'Arz by a channel 60 ft. deep at low tide. The ancient name of the island was Crialeis, in Breton it is Ines Menah or Izenah. The prehistoric monuments in it are: the great circle of stones at Kergonan, of which only half remains; the fine dolmen of Penhap, some menhirs, and the ruined dolmens of Broel, Vigie, Kerno, Roh-vras, Roh-vihan, Niol and Pon-niol. The island was granted by Erespoe to the monks of Redon, but after the devastation by the Northmen it was lost to the monks of Redon. The church is modern and is dedicated to S. Michael. P. 29th September. The island was colonised after the Northmen had swept it of its inhabitants, by settlers from Rhuys. The costume of the women is almost the same, but of a more antique cut and character. All the islands in this inland sea, like the mainland have sunk at least 16 ft. since prehistoric times. In the little islet of Er Lannig are two cromlechs, or circles of standing stones; one is half submerged, and the other completely under water, even at low tides.

Gavrinis lies to the east of the Ile aux Moines. Although less important than those already described, it is the most interesting of all in the Morbihan, on account of its tumulus, 25 ft. high, that covers a fine covered gallery, the stones of which are elaborately carved with mysterious signs like the tattoo-marks of New Zealanders. A gallery 40 ft. long leads to the central chamber, which is 5 ft. high and 6 ft. 6 in. wide. The blocks are of a fine grained granite, not of the island, but brought from a distance, with the exception of two, that are of quartz, and these are unsculptured. Such as are carved, were clearly so dealt with before they were erected in place, as the working passes round the edges.

Er-lanic is situated half a kilometre to the south-east of Gavrinis, and here are the two cromlechs already mentioned, one dipping into the sea, the other already in deep water. They are juxtaposed, forming an 8, and lie on the S. E. of the island. The first circle consists of 180 stones, but several are fallen, and it can only be seen complete when the tide is out. One stone is 16 ft. high. The second circle can only be seen at low tides.

Ile longue contains a cairn that also covers a gallery. It has not been fully examined.

Saint Avée. The church is poor and uninteresting, but in the churchyard is a curious cross, with platform from which, according to local tradition, capital sentences were pronounced. On one side is the crucifix, on the other the B.V.M. On the sides S. John the Baptist and S. Peter. In the church are two windows middle pointed. There is a lech in the churchyard at the east end of the church. But what is of far higher value than the parish church is the remarkable chapel in the Bourg-bas, which is flamboyant (1475-94), except the N. transept that is 2nd pointed. Between the nave and the choir and transepts is a tall crucifix enriched with niches, with railing and gates at the side, a totally unusual description of roodscreen. The crucifix is certainly of 1500. The transepts contain four altars with their original retables. The first on the N. side has very rude carving representing the Crucifixion, Christ in Glory, and the B. Virgin crowned (?) with a dove by her. The second and third are plain with graceful border of foliage. The fourth is a splendid bit of alabaster work, probably Flemish, and represents a virgin saint, the Crucifixion, a saint, Christ giving benediction, S. Avée (?), a Queen-saint, S. Mary Magdalen and a Mermaid. There are some early statues in the chapel, an admirable S. Lucy of the 15th cent., the drapery splendidly executed. Such early statues are very rare. Another is of S. Columbanus. Some fragments of old glass are in the windows. In the churchyard is a very curious carved Calvary of unique character, also a Holy Well. The E. window of the chancel is flamboyant of a later character than the rest. In the N. transept is one flamboyant, the tracery forming a fleur-de-lys. The others are middle pointed. The chapel has a slate spirelet. S. of the chapel by the roadside is a lech with a crucifix planted on top of it. The camp of La Villeneuve is of undetermined date. To reach it the road to Josselin must be taken and diverged from to the left to Mangolorian. Near this hamlet is the camp on a steep hill, almost impracticable on all sides but the west, where it is defended by two ranges of ditches and by two walls. The camp is called either Villeneuve or Kastel-Kerneué.

The Vallon de Poignan is within an easy stroll from Vannes. The road to Pontivy is followed as far as the Chapel of S. Guen, and then a lane to the right leads to some curious rocks, one of which is fancifully called a Druid altar. The road to Josselin is then entered, and a lane to the right conducts to the picturesque, rocky valley of Poignan, at the end of an avenue of oaks.

Plescop. Of little interest; it has a couple of lechs in the churchyard, and a flamboyant chapel, without much character, to S. Amon, possibly the father of S. Samson, who came from the neighbourhood of Vannes, but usually supposed to have been a returned crusader who asked at Plescop for milk, and as he was refused, cursed the place that its cows should never yield good milk and butter. As he was found dead in a furze-brake next morning he has received cult as a saint. Part of his skull is in a carved oak bust in the chapel, but is not exposed to veneration, as authenticating documents are non-extant. P. 4th Sunday in October.

Surzur. Three menhirs 15 ft. high are near the hamlet of Begard, and two ruined allées couvertes are in the coppice of Talhoet. A dolmen and two fallen menhirs near it at the hamlet of Vinihy. The parish church of S. Symphorian is a Romanesque building but altered later. The arcades, the doors and windows are semi-circular. There is a central tower at the crossing of the transepts surmounted by a slate spire. The Chapel of N.D. de Recouvrance is of the 16th cent.

S. Nolff. The church is partly of the 16th cent. It has been restored not wisely but too well. The Chapel of S. Anne, 1493, has a fine east window with stained glass representing Our Lord and seven saints. The other windows are filled with glaring modern glass.

Sulniac. The parish church dates from several periods. Four pillars and arches are Romanesque, as well as a window near the porch; the other windows and arcades are later. The nave was rebuilt in fancy Romanesque in 1893.

* VITRÉ (I.V.) chl. d'arr. A very picturesque town, rivalling Fougères in objects of interest. It stands on a hill above the Vilaine, and notwithstanding the destruction of a portion of its ramparts, is one of the French towns that has best retained the features of the Middle Ages. But on the side of the railway station all is modern and uninteresting. To see the old Vitré it is necessary to enter and pursue the ancient and narrow streets, which form an inextricable tangle. The houses are mostly slated in front. On the N. side the town assumes a feudal character. Here the walls stand on the black schist rock, and are only pierced by a single postern that gives access to a steep descent by steps into the valley. The castle, on a triangular plan, was founded at the close of the 11th cent. and was reconstructed in the 14th and 15th. The entrance is flanked by two towers. The castle is used partly as a prison and partly as a museum. The Church of Notre Dame is of the 15th and 16th cents., and has a tower crowned with a spire of the 18th cent. Outside the church is a stone pulpit. There is some old glass of the renaissance period: the entry into Jerusalem, the Adoration of the Shepherds, a representation of the burning of the tower of the church in 1704. The church also contains a remarkable triptych of the 16th cent., representing in 32 little groups on enamelled copper scenes from the New Testament. On the back is an inscription in rhyme. The church of S. Martin is modern; the old church is in the cemetery and dates in part from the 16th century.

Château des Roches was formerly the residence of Mme. de Sévigné, who lived in it repeatedly between 1654 and 1690. It consists of two blocks of buildings of the 16th cent., and is situated in a pretty park. Visitors are only admitted to the grounds, to the chapel, and to the room of Mme. de Sévigné, which contains copies of family portraits in the private apartments and some objects believed to have belonged to the marquise; among others a book of accounts for the garden signed by her. The bed and chairs are of wood painted white and covered with yellow silk damask.

Champeaux. The church is of the 14th and 19th cents., and has fine glass of the renaissance (1530-5) and tombs of the same period. About a mile and a half S.W. a menhir 12 ft. high called La Haute Pierre.

Pont l'Abbé (F.) chl. arr. Quimper. Here one is in the midst of the Bigauden country. Observe the curious and ugly way of wearing the hair and the coiffes. There are many folds of skirts fastened round the waists. The women are remarkably plain, and have staring eyes and expose their teeth. The church has fine 2nd pointed east and west windows. The tower was pulled partly down by Louis XIV. to punish the people for the Revolt of the Papier timbré. Some old houses. Fine cloister. The château of the 13th cent. has been transformed into a mairie. It retains a large tower, and buildings of the 17th cent. Outside the town to the S.W. is the château of Kernuz, transformed by the proprietor into a museum of flints, bronze and jade weapons, and gold ornaments found in the cairns and dolmens of the neighbourhood. The whole peninsula, ending in the Pointe de Penmarch (the Horse's Head), abounds in prehistoric monuments. Two dolmens are near the road, in the parish of Plomeur, which has an ugly modern church.

Penmarch was once a thriving seaport, rivalling Nantes, but for various causes declined, and is now reduced to a couple of hamlets. The church (S. Non = Ninidh, an Irish Bishop) is an interesting late flamboyant structure, the tracery in the windows affecting the forms of fleurs-de-lys. Beneath the E. window is a treasury surmounted by a gallery. At the junction of the chancel with the nave is a spirelet supported by turrets, connected with it by flying buttresses. At the S.W. a pretty little triumphal arch and gable. The church was begun in 1308. Inside the church a fireplace for heating the baptismal water. A mile and a half off is S. Guénolé, the tower of the church alone remaining, 1488. A little apse has been built out at the east end. It contains some curious statues. Here is a bathing establishment, with comfortable quarters. Kerity has some old maisons fortes, and a ruined church.

Tronoen. A chapel of the same date as that at Penmarch, with a fine Calvary. Two stages of sculptured groups.

Lambour. A flamboyant church, with colonade of the 13th cent.

Loctudy. A Romanesque church, with an Italian 18th cent. façade. It much resembles S. Gildas de Rhuys. It has been restored. Ile Tudy may be visited, but does not contain much of interest.

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This is mixed with chicory, and is very liable to upset the stomach.