Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great Valley of Virginia

Twice she was held up by Federal sentinels and twice she showed them Federal passes. She arrived safely back in Front Royal before day, as fresh as a "morning flower."

We cannot give all of her escapades or her narrow escapes. Once she sped through Front Royal with a message for General Jackson, her white sun bonnet and white apron against a blue dress making her a target for the Federals. Several times she felt bullets tear her wide billowing skirt, but she kept on until she had reached the General—giving him the position of the enemy: General Banks, at Strasburg with 4,000 troops, General White marching to Winchester and General Fremont approaching the Valley—all planning to "bottle up" Jackson's force.

Quickly the Confederates made plans which resulted in victory and General Jackson wrote her, "Miss Belle Boyd—I thank you for myself and for the Army for the immense service that you have rendered your country this day. Hastily your friend, T. J. Jackson, C. S. A."

Romance like danger courted her wherever she was. Finally in 1864 she decided to go to England. President Davis gave her important papers for Southern sympathizers there. She sailed from Wilmington, North Carolina, aboard the "Greyhound." Vivid pictures are given of the crew throwing overboard bales of cotton, but even this did not enable the ship to outrun the fast Union vessels. Captain Bier also dropped a keg of money, over thirty thousand dollars in gold, in order to lighten the cargo. When Belle saw they could not avoid capture she destroyed her dispatch and managed to put into a belt many gold dollars which belonged to her and the captain of the boat. Let us read her description of the Federal officer who said he must take over command of the "Greyhound":

"I confess my attention was riveted by a gentleman—the first whom I had met in my hour of distress. His dark brown hair hung down on his shoulders, his eyes were large and bright. Those who judge beauty by regularity of feature would not only have pronounced him strictly handsome, but the fascination of his manner was such that my heart yielded." He begged Belle to consider herself still a passenger, rather than a prisoner, which evidently she did.

There was a moon, a soft breeze "which swept the surface of the ocean until it was like a vast bed of sparkling diamonds." Lieutenant Hardinge, the Federal officer, quoted poetry from Shakespeare and Byron and before the vessel reached Boston, Belle had given her heart and her promise to marry the lieutenant.

While their own course of true love seemed to run smoothly enough various forces concentrated to keep them apart.

First of all, soon after arriving in Boston Captain Bier escaped. And while Belle took the credit for that, Lieutenant Hardinge was under suspicion. Besides, while Belle was being treated courteously in Boston her betrothed had gone to Washington in her behalf. The newspapers of the day flaunted the stories of the beautiful Rebel Spy and everywhere she went great crowds pushed themselves upon her.

When Hardinge reached Washington he begged Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy, permission for Miss Boyd to visit Canada. This was granted and a telegram ordered an escort for her and her maid. However, notice was given her that if she were caught again in the United States she would be shot.

Her lover was captured next and arrested for aiding Captain Bier in escaping. Finally, he went to Paris in search of the beautiful woman who had promised to marry him. After some time Belle, who was in Liverpool, learned where he was. She wrote to him and they met in London; they were married in St. James' Church. There was a large and brilliant breakfast at which a huge wedding cake was cut. Lieutenant Hardinge promised to run the blockade and carry pieces of wedding cake to his wife's friends. This he did when he arrived in Wilmington. Later he was arrested in Baltimore, charged with being a deserter and was sent to prison.

Belle interested herself in his behalf and we are told that her charms and the termination of the war secured his release. And so they lived happily ever after!

In the foregoing account of the fearless work done by Belle Boyd and of her visit to Front Royal during the Battle of Manassas we are reminded of an inhabitant of the latter place, a Mr. McLean. Rumor has it that the gentleman resided so close to the scene of battle—and it was a bloody encounter—he resolved to quit the place for a quieter section of Virginia. He had a distinct distaste for battles and bloodshed. So he moved his family to Appomattox County in Virginia and watched the scene of war with a feeling of comparative safety. The reader has guessed the rest of the story.

A little previous to April 9th, 1865 the Union and Confederate forces met at a spot not far from the courthouse and negotiations were started for the surrender of General Lee, in command of the Confederates. And on the ninth the surrender was made at the McLean house which marked the cessation of war in Virginia. Poor Mr. McLean was present at the beginning and conclusion of the fighting!

Harrisonburg

Harrisonburg is called the Friendly City and its people are noted for their hospitality. It is near famous caverns and historic battlefields. It was named in honor of Thomas Harrison who had fifty acres of his land surveyed and laid out into lots and streets. It might also be called the center of a large German element whose forefathers settled much of the surrounding country. Harrisonburg is the county-seat of Rockingham county, which was formed from Augusta in 1778. This is the third largest county in Virginia.

These people have always been among the sturdiest and bravest in the Valley. They gave the best they had to develop their new homes in a new country and when they were called upon to fight in the French and Indian War, there were no braver men to be had nor could any endure more hardships than they.

During the Revolutionary War they were among the first to respond to the call for volunteers. They were among the first to resent the closing of the Boston Harbor by the British in 1774. We read an old account or notation of Felix Gilbert who kept a shop near the town of Harrisonburg. He agreed to take food-stuffs from his neighbors and send it to the relief of the Bostonians. One of those entries, made in 1775, reads:

"Rece'd for the Bostonians; Of Patrick Frazier 1 bushel of wheat, of Jos. Dictom 2 bushels of wheat, of James Beard 1 bu. of wheat, Geo. Clarke 1 bu. wheat, Robt. Scott and Sons, 2 bu. wheat."

Massanutten Caverns

The owners of the Massanutten Caverns call them the "gem of the cavern world," for they are a combination of the beautiful and the unusual. They are located east of Harrisonburg on the Spotswood Trail.

These caverns are of rather recent discovery. In 1892 during a thriving limestone industry some workmen blasted rock in the foothills and after the discharge of dynamite was over they looked into a fairyland of strange rooms and strange formations.

The operator of the caverns called the entrance "Discovery Gate" and planned the route through the underground so that visitors begin their journey where the discovery was made.

Vacationists find themselves unloading their luggage and remaining either overnight or for longer periods of time when they see the facilities offered there. The accommodations include a golf course and swimming pool as well as a lodge and cottages.

Grand Caverns

Back in 1804 Bernard Weyer discovered the unusual caves situated on a bluff belonging to his neighbor Mr. Mohler. Nearly a century before, the courageous "Sir Knights of the Golden Horseshoe" had passed by this part of the Blue Ridge—within ten miles of the entrance of the caverns, perhaps, and because of the layout of the land never suspected the underground "Buried City." Today these are called Grand Caverns and are located between Elkton and Mt. Sidney, the latter town being on the Lee-Jackson Highway.

Young Weyer was a great hunter who enjoyed roaming the fields and hillsides in search of game. The historian Kercheval tells the story of the day when Weyer went to find an elusive ground-hog, having previously set a trap for it. The animal not only had not been captured but for some time had made a successful getaway with each trap set for it. Weyer decided to dig for the ground-hog hide-out. "A few moments' labor brought him to the antechamber of this stupendous cavern, where he found his traps safely deposited." Not content with eleven pages of flattering and minute descriptions of every passageway known then, Kercheval used another page with "Note A" and "Note B" which described later explorations. This makes interesting reading for those who have either visited the Caverns or have not had that privilege and plan to see them. In these accounts he included Congress Hall, The Infernal Regions, Washington's Hall, The Church, Jefferson's Hall and numerous others.

The Historical Collections of Virginia by Henry Howe gives a vivid picture of Weyer's Cave and the author further states:

"A foreign traveller who visited the cave at an annual illumination, has, in a finely written description, the following notice:

" … Weyer's Cave is in my judgment one of the great natural wonders of this new world; and for its eminence in its own class, deserves to be ranked with the Natural Bridge and Niagara, while it is far less known than either.... For myself, I acknowledge the spectacle to have been most interesting; but, to be so, it must be illuminated, as on this occasion. I had thought that this circumstance might give to the whole a toyish effect; but the influence of 2,000 or 3,000 lights on these immense caverns is only such as to reveal the objects, without disturbing the solemn and sublime obscurity which sleeps on everything. Scarcely any scenes can awaken so many passions at once, and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, terror, surprise, admiration, and delight, by turns and together, arrest and possess you. I have had before, from other objects, one simple impression made with greater power; but I never had so many impressions made, and with so much power, before. If the interesting and the awful are the elements of the sublime, here sublimity reigns, as in her own domain, in darkness, silence, and deeps profound."

Bear in mind that this account was given long before 1850 and that Grand Caverns was first known as Weyer's Cave.

We learned that the Cave was used as a source of income by its owners first in 1836, when the large chambers were converted into temporary dance halls for the countryside youth. Mentioned above is the fact that the caverns were lighted once a year and admission was charged on this occasion. About 1925 the passages were lighted properly and tourists began their trek to this wonder of nature.

A modern note is to be found in the name "Linbergh Bridge"—one not mentioned as such by any of the early writers!

Massanetta Springs

One of the most delightful places in all the Valley is Massanetta Springs. It is one of those beauty spots which one finds after going through Swift Run Gap, famous for being the first gap through which came the English with Governor Spotswood and his Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. It was through here, too, that General George Washington passed on horseback in 1784.

Long ago these springs were known as Taylor Springs and during the War Between the States the wounded soldiers were cared for there. Many famous people lived in and around this lovely spring. We are told that Daniel Boone's wife lived near here, and that Abraham Lincoln's father, Thomas Lincoln, was born not more than twelve miles away on Linville Creek. Not far away is Singer's Glen where some of the first early American hymns and songs were published.

Today various religious denominations hold summer conferences at the Springs.

Staunton

Near Lewis's Fort a settlement grew up and in 1749 a town was chartered. It was named Staunton in honor of Lady Staunton, wife of Governor Gooch, the official who had given so many land grants to Lewis and his Scotch neighbors. At that time, the town was the county-seat of Augusta (formed from Orange County in 1738), whose boundaries swept far to the west. Old records show that one time the court adjourned in Staunton and reconvened at Fort Duquesne, the colonial outpost which has long since become Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

If one would search further, he would find this was done during the French and Indian troubles. Five Chiefs, or rather several of the Five Nations, signed this order or treaty and it is to be seen among other historical documents in the Court House in Staunton.

After the Legislature fled from Charlottesville to Staunton during Tarleton's Raid, that body met and held its sessions in old Trinity Episcopal Church. During this short time, Staunton was called "the Capital of Virginia."

The area around Staunton is full of War Between the States history too, referred to in other places.

Woodrow Wilson was born here in a lovely old Presbyterian manse which is now a shrine to one of the greatest Presidents of the United States. Here, annually, thousands of Americans come to honor him.

The town is a center of culture, for there are located many splendid schools; among them, for girls are Mary Baldwin and Stuart Hall. Staunton Military Academy and nearby Augusta Military Academy are recognized as outstanding schools for boys. There are two business schools, Dunsmore and Templeton Business College. The one for the deaf and blind is a State institution.

Tarleton entered Charlottesville on the fourth day of June in 1781. Jefferson's term as governor expired four days later. Ex-Governor Patrick Henry had been his guest while the Legislature was meeting there. He now hastened to Staunton where the Legislators had fled from Charlottesville. Mr. Jefferson, according to one historian, concealed himself in a cave in Carter's Mountain and Patrick Henry, in his flight to Staunton, met Colonel Lewis and told him of how the Legislators had fled Charlottesville upon Tarleton's invasion.

Colonel Lewis, not knowing who Patrick Henry was, replied "If Patrick Henry had been in Albemarle, the British Dragoons never would have passed over the Rivanna River."

The Legislators were badly demoralized, for they feared Tarleton would come to Staunton. Many of them left during the night and went to the hospitable home of Colonel George Moffett. During Mr. Henry's hasty changes he had the misfortune to lose one of his boots. While eating breakfast the next morning, Mrs. Moffett remarked, "There was one member of the Legislative body whom I knew would not run." The question was asked by one of the party, "Who is he?" Her reply was, "Patrick Henry," at that moment a gentleman with one boot colored perceptibly. The party soon left and after their departure a servant rode up and asked for Mr. Henry, saying he had forgotten his boot. Of course Mrs. Moffett knew whom the boot fitted.

A tale made more popular perhaps because of a recent revival of interest in Salem witchcraft is that of a woman who lived years ago in Augusta County and who was a great aunt of Governor James McDowell of Rockbridge County. She was born Mary McDowell and married James Greenlee.

It is recounted that she was an unusually attractive and intelligent young woman but was considered highly eccentric in her behavior. Neighbors thought that an early love affair had contributed something to her peculiar manner. Be that as it may, she was regarded by her acquaintances as a witch. They believed she had made a written contract with the devil—a contract drawn up in duplicate form so that each party might retain a copy!

Once at a quilting party in her home she urged one of the quilters to take a second piece of cake and laughingly remarked that "the mare that does double work should be best fed." The women misconstrued this to be an acknowledgment that she was a witch who rode a mare at night on her excursions to meet the devil. The rumor of her evil activities rapidly spread throughout the countryside.

The neighborhood thought she was capable of placing curses upon them and attributed such tragedies as fires, loss of family or stock, or poor crops to the unfortunate woman.

The fact that she was never brought before the court with the accusation of being a witch was due in large measure to the standing of the family. That does not mean, however, that Mrs. Greenlee did not live a wretched existence or that failure to declare her a witch made the people less afraid of her powers.

While he was President of the United States, Woodrow Wilson returned to Staunton and placed a tablet on the wall of the First Presbyterian Church in memory of his father, Dr. Joseph Wilson, a former minister. The church in which Dr. Wilson used to preach and in which the President was christened serves now as the Chapel of Mary Baldwin College.

An interesting old home in Staunton is the Stuart House, located on Lewis Street. It was planned by the great architect and builder Thomas Jefferson. Mr. A. H. Stuart, the owner, was a member of President Fillmore's Cabinet.

The main building of the School for the Deaf and Blind is an unexcelled example of Doric architecture. During the War Between the States it was used as a hospital.

Waynesboro and Afton

"Mad Anthony Wayne," the Revolutionary hero, has a town named for him in Virginia—Waynesboro. This is a beautiful place which has become even more popular upon completion of the projected Skyline Drive southward from Swift Run Gap.

The State Conservation Commission has erected an historical marker which states briefly:

"Here on one of the first roads west of the Blue Ridge, a hamlet stood in colonial times. The Walker exploring expedition started from this vicinity in 1748. Here, in June 1781, the Augusta militia assembled to join Lafayette in the East. A town was founded in 1797. It was established by law in 1801 and named for General Anthony Wayne."

In 1854 the countryside was very much excited over the trip made by the first train travelling west of the Blue Ridge. Crowds gathered to see the phenomenon and half of them left in fright, we are told, as the iron horse chugged off. Incidentally, mules hauled the first passenger engine over the high mountains and set it down for its memorable exodus.

For the most part the buildings one sees in the town have been erected since 1861, for in that year a devastating fire wiped out the landmarks of pioneer days.

The last battle in Northern Virginia during the War Between the States occurred here in March 1865, just about a month before the surrender of General Lee at Appomattox. Hoping to protect Rockfish Gap, General Early had his Confederate forces quartered in the town. Sheridan, the Union General, surprised him and captured more than half the rebels.

Furnishing power for the large manufacturing interests are the numerous springs of Waynesboro, which have a capacity of millions of gallons of water a day. If you are unfamiliar with springs such as Virginia has, you should stop at Brunswick, Baker's, or Basic Lithia Springs for an unusual sight.

Swannanoa, one of the finest estates in Virginia, is on top of the mountain between Waynesboro and Afton. It is said by numbers of people that two of the loveliest views in America may be had from this point: Rockfish and Shenandoah valleys. You will probably agree with the statement when you stand where you may get a commanding view of the country below you. The large home on the estate is now a country club. Nearby is the site of "Old Mountain Top Tavern," widely known years ago for its fine hospitality. A group met at the tavern in 1818 to decide the location of the proposed University of Virginia. Among them were Madison, Monroe, Marshall and Jefferson.

Driving along the roads you see some of the finest peach orchards in Virginia, for the section is famed for its high quality fruit. Not only do peaches abound here, but you will also see splendid apple orchards. If you happen along at the right season you will be able to stop at a roadside market to buy the renowned Albemarle Pippins—the apples which are grown for miles around—and some of the luscious peaches.

Natural Bridge

"Who first discovered Natural Bridge?" is a question which nearly every one asks, and a second one is, "How high is it?"

The answer to the first is given in an old Indian legend which reads something like this: Long, long ago, years before the Princess Pocahontas saved the life of Captain John Smith, there was a terrible war between some of the tribes. The Shawnees were noted for their cruelty and they joined forces with the Powhatans. They roamed through Virginia and fell upon the Monocans, a more friendly tribe.

There had been a famine that year and the Monocans were weakened by hunger and many of their braves fell in battle. After a long conflict, the Monocans decided to retreat and they gave way before the enemy. But they were pursued relentlessly. The Monocans sought refuge in a strange forest and suddenly they came upon a high chasm, whose steep walls were of rock. The braves peered over and were made dizzy when they saw the great distance to the bottom below, where a swiftly running river looked like a small silver ribbon.

Even the strongest could not have jumped across the wide chasm, for it was over a hundred feet wide. Their swiftest scouts ran hither and yon, but each brought back word that there was no way around.

The Monocans were in despair and in their distress threw themselves upon the ground and cried aloud to the Great Spirit to spare their lives from the approaching enemy.

One of the braves arose and went again to the edge of the cliff. He stared down at his feet, then turned and shouted, "Our prayers have been granted us—The Great Spirit has built for us a bridge across the great abyss."

"Be careful," cried one of the men. "Send the squaws and children first to test it. If they cross in safety, then we will know it will be heavy enough to carry our weight also."

And so the women and children passed over into the shelter of the forest beyond. Even as they went they could hear the war whoops of the advancing enemy.

But the Monocans were refreshed in spirit. Their courage had returned, for was not the Great Spirit on their side? The braves quickly took positions on the bridge, each feeling he stood on sacred ground, and like the Greeks of old at Thermopylae they turned and faced their enemy and fought victoriously. From that day, we are told, they called it "The Bridge of God" and worshipped it.

The first white man to own Natural Bridge was Thomas Jefferson, and one may see the original land grant still hanging on the walls of Monticello which reads, in part:

"Know ye that for divers good causes and considerations, but more Especially for and in Consideration of the sum of Twenty Shillings of good and lawful money for our use paid to our Receiver General of our Revenues, in this our Colony and Dominion of Virginia, We have Given, Granted and Confirmed, and by these presents for us, our heirs and successors, Do give, Grant and confirm unto Thomas Jefferson, one certain Tract or parcel of land, containing 157 acres, lying and being in the County of Botetourt, including the Natural Bridge on Cedar Creek, a branch of James River …"

We are told that George Washington surveyed the land in 1750, and while there he climbed up 23 feet and carved his initials "G. W." on the southeast walls; the guide today will try to point them out to the visitor. A story is also told that George Washington threw a stone from the bottom of Cedar Creek over the Bridge. Evidently he liked to test his strength by such sports, for it is said that he threw a Spanish dollar across the Rappahannock River opposite the town of Fredericksburg.

When this story was told to the late President Cleveland, he replied, "I do not know about that, but I am well assured he threw a sovereign across the Atlantic."

In 1927 another stone was found which scientists think proved George Washington surveyed that territory. This stone is a large one and also bears his initials which are engraved in a surveyor's cross. Evidently he measured the height of the Bridge by dropping a line from the edge of the bridge to the cross below.

Thomas Jefferson called his purchase the "most Sublime of Nature's works." He visited it many times and during his presidency, in 1802, he surveyed the place with his own hands. He later built a log cabin which contained two rooms and one of them was always kept ready for a visitor. Many famous people visited there and the list includes such men as John Marshall, James Monroe, Henry Clay, Sam Houston and Martin Van Buren. While in France, Jefferson collected many plants and shrubs which he sent to America; many of these were planted at the Bridge, and some are still in existence.