Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great Valley of Virginia

"The old entrance house has been replaced by a unique cave house built of limestone boulders from the mountain side. Great gates of hand-wrought iron bar the head of the stone steps which lead downward. A lone lantern hangs from the arch of the stone roof and accurately placed, at the exact center of the top of the entrance, is a huge boulder in the shape of a keystone, set there by the Architect of all the earth many thousands of years ago."

No one can describe the beautiful shapes and designs to be found in the caverns. They must be seen to be appreciated fully and no matter how many caves one has seen, he will not regret the magic time spent here.

Luray

The question is often asked as to the origin of the unusual name of the town of Luray. Legend disagrees as to its derivation. There are some who claim it came from the name of an early settler, Lewis Ramey. He was familiarly known as Lew Ramey and the contraction Lew Ray might have followed naturally. The site of Ramey's little log cabin is at the corner of Main and Court streets.

Some citizens of the town insist that the Huguenots who escaped from France and finally migrated to the Valley named the new settlement Lorraine after their province in France and that Luray is a corruption of the former name.

There are reminders near this town of former years of struggle. During the French and Indian War the settlers decided upon building "cellar forts" for protection against Indian raids. These cellars dug under the log homes were large enough for living quarters and were generally supplied with a spring of water. They were so constructed with rocks serving as a ceiling that even in case of fire in the house proper, the occupants of the cellar would be unhurt. Several of these ingenious little fortifications remain in Page County, Rhodes Fort and the Egypt House being good examples of them.

In the Hawksbill neighborhood, not far from Luray, there lived a long time ago John Stone and his family. In 1758 the Indians came to his home while he was away. They had little difficulty in carrying off Mrs. Stone and her baby, a son about eight years old and another boy, George Grandstaff, who was sixteen.

The marauders sacked other residences in the neighborhood and killed a number of persons. It is possible that when they set out for their own settlements some distance off they found Mrs. Stone's progress impeded because of carrying the baby. At any rate, they murdered those two and continued on their way with the boys.

Three years later Grandstaff escaped as their prisoner and returned to Mr. Stone. Young Stone remained with the savages for a number of years and when he did come home he sold his father's property and with the money in his pockets he went back to the Indian village. No one ever heard of him afterwards.

Luray was laid out in 1812 by William Staige Marye, son of Peter Marye, who built the first turnpike—a toll-road—to cross the Blue Ridge from Culpeper into the Shenandoah Valley. Near Luray is the Saltpetre Cave. During the War Between the States the Confederates established a nitrate plant there and used the products in their manufacture of ammunition.

One of the most beautiful drives in Virginia is that leaving Luray, crossing the mountain and entering the Valley Pike at New Market.

Of particular importance to this section are the Luray Caverns. An entertaining history is attached to them. As far back as 1793 there was knowledge of the existence of the caves, for Joseph Ruffner's son had explored several passages just about this time. Ruffner's property took on the name of Cave Hill.

The Ruffners were among the largest landowners in the Valley, their property extending twelve miles on both sides of Hawksbill Creek. They received a part of the land through inheritance and bought other tracts. Dr. Henry Ruffner, a member of this distinguished family, was at one time President of Washington College, now Washington and Lee University at Lexington.

Fighting during the War Between the States occurred near the town of Luray and about two miles south on the Lee Highway there is an old oak tree which marks the place where Sheridan's famous Valley ride was halted for a time.

There are interesting landmarks remaining in the town today which have witnessed the pageant of history, among the most pretentious being "Aventine." This home originally occupied the present site of the Mymslyn Hotel.

Stonewall Jackson's Valley Campaign

Too much space must not be consumed in this book in presenting the facts regarding Jackson's Valley Campaign. We feel justified in devoting more than a comment to this notable feat of war, however, for some of the heaviest fighting of the four years' conflict took place on the land you may see in driving over the Valley Pike and along the Skyline Drive.

At the outbreak of hostilities in the War Between the States Thomas Jackson left the chair of higher mathematics at the Virginia Military Institute and volunteered his services in the Virginia army. Educated at West Point and trained during the Mexican War he was a welcome addition to the Confederate forces, although no one anticipated the conspicuous rôle he would play in the subsequent events. At the early battle of First Manassas he earned the name of "Stonewall" because of his quiet, dignified and unafraid manner in the face of danger.

Lt. Col. C. F. R. Henderson's invaluable two volumes, Stonewall Jackson and the American Civil War, were consulted and are the source quoted hereafter in giving the account of the Valley warfare. The First Brigade of the Virginia army was recruited from the Valley and participated under Jackson in the first battle of Manassas and for a long period of time thereafter.

"No better material for soldiers ever existed," said Henderson, "than the men of the Valley. Most of them were of Scotch-Irish descent, but from the more northern counties came many of English blood, and from those in the center of Swiss and German. But whatever their origin, they were thoroughly well qualified for their new trade. All classes mingled in the ranks, and all ages; the heirs of the oldest families, and the humblest of the sons of toil; boys whom it was impossible to keep in school, and men whose white beards hung below their cross belts; youths who had been reared in luxury, and rough hunters from their lonely cabins. They were a mountain people, nurtured in a wholesome climate bred to manly sports, and hardened by the free life of the field and forest. To social distinctions they gave little heed. They were united for a common purpose; they had taken arms to defend Virginia and to maintain her rights; and their patriotism was proved by the sacrifice of all personal consideration and individual interest."

After the first battle of Manassas the First Brigade was known as the "Stonewall Brigade."

From July to November, 1861, Jackson spent the greater part of every day drilling the men under him and in trying to convert them into well-disciplined, obedient troops. During the first week in November he was sent from Manassas to command the Shenandoah Valley district and this meant parting from the soldiers whom he had reason to admire and who in turn held him in highest esteem. A short time later they were destined to reunite under circumstances which would try the courage of the brigade and commander. To the delight of all, the Stonewall Brigade was assigned to Winchester soon after Jackson established his headquarters there and for the next few months rigid training was given them again.

About the middle of March 1862, Jackson abandoned Winchester. This was after some of the Union concentration near Manassas and Centreville was broken up and General Banks made no move to offer battle, so the Confederates withdrew without a fight and occupied Strasburg eighteen or twenty miles southward. The evacuation of Winchester was made reluctantly, for good roads in each direction connected the city with outlying districts, fertile farms nearby could furnish the invading army with rations and Banks could receive from or send troops to West Virginia or the army south of Washington. Feeling that Jackson's small force was not of any special danger, Shields' corps was sent in pursuit of the Confederates and most of Banks' troops were ordered to another field. Jackson continued up the Valley and stopped at Mount Jackson, hoping the Federals would follow.

The Confederate general learned from Ashby, his cavalry commander, that the enemy was retreating. It was Lee's intention that the Union corps in the Valley be retained there so that assistance could not be offered McClellan, the Northern general who was maneuvering in the eastern part of Virginia with the ultimate aim of striking Richmond. McClellan hoped to attack the capital of the Confederacy by combining his army with that of McDowell, whom he could call to the area of war when necessary. So it was to be Jackson's duty to keep them in the Valley and perhaps to withdraw some of the Northern troops from near Richmond.

On March 22nd Ashby with his troopers and a few guns engaged Shields in a skirmish just south of Winchester. He believed there was only a small force of Federals present, so well had Shields hidden his men, and he reported to Jackson that the troops were small in number. The next day Jackson sent reinforcements to Ashby and then followed later with his whole force in the direction of Kernstown which is south of Winchester and but a short distance off. There the battle of Kernstown began and continued until dark. Jackson's troops were defeated and retreated southward. As a result of this encounter Shields was reinforced and the strong Union force remained in the Valley.

The Federal generals were apparently satisfied with the victory and in spite of urgings from the Secretary of War, Stanton, to pursue Jackson they remained inactive for nearly a month.

Banks assumed the offensive on April 17th, and surprised Ashby, taking one of his companies prisoner. The Virginians burned the railroad station at Mount Jackson and fell back while the Union cavalry established themselves at New Market.

The Confederate General Ewell had a force of 8,000 men on the Upper Rappahannock which is some distance east of the mountains. This corps was left at its location in order to rush to the defense of Fredericksburg or Richmond or across the mountains to the Valley. Jackson knew that he must not allow Banks to control the mountain pass, thus severing communication between the two Confederate forces. He determined upon a forced march for his men and on the eighteenth they reached Harrisonburg. He continued over to Swift Run Gap and encamped near there.

Banks followed his cavalry to New Market, crossed over to Luray and seized the bridges, driving back a detachment of Jackson's men sent there to defend them. Later he sent two of his five brigades to Harrisonburg and the rest stayed at New Market.

Jackson's next move was to McDowell, a town about twenty-seven miles northwest of Harrisonburg. The march was made in the most circuitous manner: from Swift Run Gap to Port Republic, to Brown's Gap which is about twelve miles southeast of their camp at Elk Run Valley, to Staunton and then west to McDowell. This strategy was used so that he might deceive Banks, Fremont and Milroy, the Federal commanders in and near the Valley, into thinking for a while that he was leaving the Valley to join forces at Richmond. Jackson proposed to strike each Union force located in this section of Virginia but he believed an encounter with Milroy commanding the weakest corps should be made before attacking Banks. The Battle of McDowell occurred on May 8th, and was a victory for Jackson. He followed the enemy in their retreat as far as Franklin. A squadron of Ashby's cavalry spent much time in blocking any of the passes which Fremont might use in crossing the mountains to reinforce Banks. Bridges were burned and rocks and trees were placed across the roadways. Jackson's object was thus thoroughly achieved:

"All combination between the Federal columns, except by long and devious routes, had now been rendered impracticable; and there was little fear that in any operations down the Valley his own communications would be endangered. The McDowell expedition had neutralized, for the time being, Fremont's 20,000 men; and Banks was now isolated, exposed to the combined attack of Jackson, Ewell and Edward Johnson."

Ewell in the meantime had left his post near Gordonsville and had moved into Swift Run Gap in order to go to Jackson if necessary. After the Battle of McDowell, Jackson returned to the Valley. Lee ordered him to make a movement against Banks as speedily as possible, to drive him towards Washington and appear ready to attack the Union capital. Thus he hoped to see some of the Northerners leave the vicinity of Richmond and return to defend their capital.

Jackson entered the Valley at Mount Solon and pushed northward at once. Banks erected earthworks at Strasburg and considered himself well entrenched against the enemy. Ewell, with his Confederates, left Swift Run Gap and moved to Luray. Jackson moved north to New Market. The Confederates now organized into two divisions, Jackson's and Ewell's, numbering about 17,000 men. The troops under Jackson instead of continuing northward in their march turned east and crossed the Massanutten Mountain and headed north. On May 22nd the advanced guard camped within ten miles of Front Royal. This town was "held by a strong detachment of Banks' small army."

"Since they had left Mount Solon and Elk Run Valley on May 19th the troops in four days had made just sixty miles. Such celerity of movement was unfamiliar to both Banks and Stanton, and on the night of the 22nd neither the Secretary nor the General had the faintest suspicion that the enemy had as yet passed Harrisonburg.... There was serenity at Washington.... The Secretary, … saw no reason for alarm. His strategical combinations were apparently working without a hitch.... Milroy's defeat was considered no more than an incident of 'la petite guerre'. Washington seemed so perfectly secure that the recruiting offices had been closed, and the President and Secretary, anticipating the immediate fall of Richmond, left for Fredericksburg the next day. McDowell was to march on the 26th, and the departure of his fine army was to be preceded by a grand review....

"So on this night of May 22nd the President and his people were without fear of what the morrow might bring forth. The end of the rebellion seemed near at hand. Washington was full of the anticipated triumph. The crowds passed to and fro exchanging congratulations on the success of the Northern arms and the approaching downfall of the slaveholders.... Little dreamt the light-hearted multitude that, in the silent woods of the Luray Valley, a Confederate army lay asleep beneath the stars. Little dreamt Lincoln, or Banks, or Stanton, that not more than seventy miles from Washington, and less than thirty from Strasburg, the most daring of the enemies, waiting for the dawn to rise above the mountains was pouring out his soul in prayer."

Banks' 10,000 men were distributed in this manner: at Strasburg the largest contingent, at Winchester a small group of infantry and cavalry, with two companies of infantry at Newtown, midway between Strasburg and Front Royal. At Rectortown, nineteen miles east of Front Royal was General Geary with 2,000 infantry and cavalry independent of Banks. Front Royal was held by Colonel Kenly of the First Maryland Regiment, U. S. A. On the morning of May 23rd the Confederates struck Kenly's small force. Every line of communication and reinforcement had been severed during the previous night and "within an hour after his pickets were surprised Kenly was completely isolated."

Banks moved north from Strasburg towards Winchester before Jackson could scatter his troops along the route and cut off his retreat. Encounters took place at Newtown and Middletown and Kernstown during the early morning of May 24th. The battle of Winchester occurred the following day. Particularly hard fighting was done by both sides, but the surprise movements of Jackson during the past few days, the partial demoralization of the Union forces and the keen fighting of the Confederate divisions drove Banks' army from Winchester and on to Martinsburg.

Lee sent instructions to Jackson to threaten an invasion of Maryland and an attack upon Washington at this excellent time. So on the 28th the Stonewall Brigade set out towards Harper's Ferry and at Charlestown they met a Federal force, routing them within twenty minutes. Ewell came up to support the Brigade and on the 29th the army of the Valley was encamped near Halltown. The greater part of the Federals crossed the Potomac River at Harper's Ferry. Jackson, however, learned that the Union soldiers were advancing to cut off his retreat; Shields' division was approaching Manassas Gap and Fremont had left Franklin and was about ten miles from Moorefield. Jackson felt that Lee's orders had been carried out and decided to retreat along the Valley Pike. The Southerners turned southward towards Winchester. En route Jackson found out that the small force left at Front Royal had been driven back and that Shields occupied the town. The Valley army was ordered to Strasburg, the First Brigade was called back from Charlestown, the prisoners and supplies were picked up at Winchester and moved southward. "From the morning of May 19 to the night of June 1, a period of fourteen days, the Army of the Valley had marched one hundred and seventy miles, had routed a force of 12,500 men, had threatened the North with invasions, had drawn off McDowell from Fredericksburg, had seized the hospitals and supply depots at Front Royal, Winchester, and Martinsburg, and finally, although surrounded on three sides by 60,000 men, had brought off a huge convoy without losing a single wagon."

When the Federals learned that Jackson had moved south Shields was sent towards Luray from Front Royal. Fremont moved towards Woodstock. The Federal cavalry reached Luray on June 2nd and found that the enemy had already been there and burned the bridges, thus cutting off their approach to New Market. A part of the Confederates were repulsed on June 2nd between Strasburg and Woodstock and the skirmishing continued the next day with the Confederates retreating to Mount Jackson and burning the bridges over the North Fork of the Shenandoah River. The Union troops tried to construct their pontoons across the stream but a driving rain and high waters prevented their doing so. This failure gave the rebels a day's respite.

Jackson with his force passed from Harrisonburg over to Cross Keys and there bivouacked. The Northern generals looked upon this move as a retreat.

On June 8th and 9th the battles of Cross Keys and Port Republic took place, victories for the Southerners. The Confederates moved on to Brown's Gap, a point a bit nearer Richmond. "The success which the Confederates had achieved was undoubtedly important. The Valley army, posted at Brown's Gap, was now in direct communication with Richmond. Not only had its pursuers been roughly checked, but the sudden and unexpected counter-stroke, delivered by an enemy whom they believed to be in full flight, had surprised Lincoln and Stanton as effectively as Shields and Fremont."

Thus the plan of McClellan to fall upon Richmond had been postponed and a division of the Northern forces was made necessary to protect the Federal capital and to supply Banks with troops.

Later in the month Jackson's division moved with great secrecy to join General Lee near Richmond—but that is a story for another time.

Belle Boyd, the Spy

"In a pretty storied house, the walls completely covered by roses and honeysuckle in luxuriant bloom" according to Belle Boyd herself, lived one of the most beautiful women and one of the most famous spies in all history.

Martinsburg, her home in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, was only a village then and she tells us about her neighbors and her childhood—"It was all golden and I was surrounded by devoted and beloved parents and brothers and sisters … our neighbors are some of the best families of the Old Dominion descended from such ancestors as the Fairfaxes and Washingtons."

When Belle was only twelve she was sent to Mount Washington Seminary in Washington. At sixteen her education was finished and she made her début. She wrote how brilliant were the Congressional and Senate balls where both Northern and Southern belles met and learned to love each other as sisters.

Then came the dark days of Secession. Belle's own father was among the first to enlist in the defense of Virginia. Belle returned home where with other ladies she helped raise funds with which to equip the Confederate soldiers. The colors were raised and on them one read these words, "Our God, Our Country and Our Women."

Things were dull for Belle after her father and the boys marched away to Harper's Ferry. Soon she went to visit them where she enjoyed the social life until messages came saying the Federal troops were approaching. She was sent home and scarcely had she arrived before the Southern troops withdrew to Falling Waters, near her home. She heard the distant boom of cannon and quickly there followed the battle of Martinsburg. After a skirmish of five hours, Belle saw General Jackson's troops retreat.

Hard upon them were the Federals entering the village with flags flying and the fifes playing the now despised "Yankee Doodle."

Dawned the Fourth of July and Belle woke to see the Yankee flags flying from many homes. She heard the drunken soldiers as they planned to force their way into homes whose doors and blinds were shut tight. Blows began to batter down doors and those of the Boyd home were splintered as well as those of their neighbors.

Some one had told the Federals that the walls of Belle's room were covered with rebel flags. But though they searched none were found. Belle's Negro maid had taken them down and carefully hidden them. The soldiers were furious and began to break furniture, glass ornaments, and abuse the Virginia sympathizers. Then they went out and began to raise the United States flag over the Boyd home. This was more than Mrs. Boyd could stand, so she spoke: "Men, every member of my household will die before that flag shall be raised over us." Let us read Belle's account of what followed:

"Upon this, one of the soldiers, thrusting himself forward addressed my mother in language so offensive as it is impossible to conceive. I could stand it no longer, my indignation was aroused beyond control, my blood was literally boiling in my veins, I drew out my pistol and shot him. He was carried away mortally wounded and soon after he expired."

Then the Boyd home was set on fire, but it was hastily put out. The Northern commander quickly arrived and an investigation followed. After a long and lengthy trial, during which time the Boyd home was guarded by sentries, the officer declared Belle had acted as any normal person would have under similar circumstances.

From this time on, Belle gave herself to the Confederate Cause. She met and charmed the Federal officers. She remembered their names and got them to tell her their plans. These Belle carefully wrote down and sent to General J. E. B. Stuart. Soon she was under suspicion and one of her letters was seized by the enemy. She was sent for, arrested and asked if she had written the letter. She acknowledged it, was rebuked and the Articles of War regarding such deeds were read to her. Again a trial—and a dismissal.

Belle was undaunted. She not only continued to pick up valuable information, but she picked up small side arms and pistols and these, along with the information, found their way into the Southern lines.

While on a visit to Front Royal the first battle of Manassas was fought. The wounded were rushed into Front Royal and Belle found herself the matron of the large hospital. Soldiers told how she worked night and day, tirelessly giving of herself to comfort and help "the boys." After eight weeks of such a strenuous life, Belle had to go home for a much needed rest.

Before her mother thought she was strong enough, Belle left to visit her father who was stationed at Manassas. Soon she was riding as a courier back and forth for General Jackson and General Beauregard.

On one occasion Belle was in Front Royal waiting for an opportunity to go to Richmond where her family had gone. She had secured passes from some of her Federal friends and she was staying in the same house in which General Shields was stopping. Belle's room was over the living-room where the officers were making plans. A small hole in the closet floor gave her a good view of the men—and served to let her hear every word of their next maneuvers. Belle listened until one o'clock, writing down in cypher each plan. Then she carefully stole down the back steps, saddled a horse in the backyard and was off, fifteen miles, to carry the message.