Home Cooking

Rhubarb muffins

MAKES 12 MUFFINS · VEGETARIAN

These are great for breakfast or as a snack at any time of the day. Use fresh rhubarb when it’s in season in spring or frozen rhubarb at other times. If it is already sliced, it needn’t be defrosted.

150g (5oz) soft light brown sugar

1 tbsp sunflower oil

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

100ml (3½fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

100g (3½oz) rhubarb, finely diced

175g (6oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

Pinch of salt

12-hole muffin tin

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Line the muffin tin with paper cases.

2 Place 125g (4½oz) of the sugar, the sunflower oil, egg, vanilla extract and buttermilk or soured milk in a large bowl. Beat until well mixed, then stir in the rhubarb. Sift in the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt, and stir until all the ingredients are combined. Try to avoid over-mixing or the muffins will become tough.

3 Divide the mixture between the muffin cases, filling them three-quarters full with batter and then sprinkle the remaining sugar on top of the batter in each muffin case.

4 Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for 18–20 minutes or until golden brown and firm to the touch. Allow to stand in the tin for a few minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool.

Spicy prune and apple muffins

MAKES 12 MUFFINS · VEGETARIAN

These are really delicious and filling first thing in the morning. They are also great for a snack or as a lunchbox treat.

275g (10oz) plain wholemeal flour

50g (2oz) rolled oats

125g (4½oz) soft light brown sugar

1 tbsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

2 tsp ground mixed spice

175g (6oz) pitted prunes, roughly chopped

1 eating or cooking apple, peeled, cored and finely diced

250ml (9fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip below right)

50g (2oz) butter, melted and cooled

2 eggs

12-hole muffin tin

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Line the muffin tin with paper cases.

2 Mix the flour, oats and sugar together in a large bowl and sift in the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and mixed spice. Stir in the prunes and apple.

3 Beat the buttermilk or soured milk, butter and eggs together and pour into the dry ingredients, stirring to combine and to give a smooth batter. Try to avoid over-mixing or the muffins will become tough.

4 Divide the batter between the muffin cases, filling them almost to the top. Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for about 20 minutes or until golden and firm to the touch. Allow to stand in the tin for a few minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool.

Rachel’s tip

To make your own soured milk, gently heat some standard milk (to the quantity required for the recipe) until warm, then remove from the heat, add the juice of ½ lemon and leave at room temperature overnight. If you are allergic to dairy products, this recipe works well with soya or rice milk soured in the same way.

Boiled eggs with soldiers

SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This is the simplest recipe in the world but definitely one of my favourite things to eat. I love boiled eggs either for breakfast or for a simple supper when there’s nothing else in the house — the perfect standby! Use the freshest eggs possible and ones cooked from room temperature rather than from the fridge, so they are less likely to crack.

2 eggs, at room temperature

4 slices of white or brown bread

25g (1oz) butter, softened

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Bring a small saucepan of water to a rolling boil. Carefully lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon (dropping the eggs may cause the shells to crack). Bring back up to the boil and begin timing from the point at which the water starts to boil. For soft-boiled eggs, cook for 4–5 minutes; 8 minutes for hard-boiled.

2 While the eggs are cooking, pop the bread in a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast until it is golden brown. Remove and spread with butter immediately so that it melts. Cut each piece into 4–5 fingers.

3 Carefully remove each egg with a slotted spoon and place it in an egg cup. When the eggs are cool enough to handle, either crack the tops with the back of a teaspoon (and peel the shell away) or slice them off with a knife. Season with salt and pepper.

4 Dip the buttered soldiers into the soft yolk (unless it’s hard-boiled, of course) and enjoy!

Variation

For a romantic, elegant, or Mother’s Day breakfast: serve with asparagus tips (blanched for 2–3 minutes in boiling water) for dipping rather than the soldiers. You can also use duck eggs.

Scrambled eggs

SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

As with omelettes and boiled eggs (see pages 20 and 25), scrambled eggs make the perfect quick meal. And just as with omelettes, they can be served in a huge number of delicious combinations. Mexican scrambled eggs are perfect for getting rid of a hangover: the chopped fresh coriander and chilli are just what you need to wake you up! Use the best free-range eggs for their lovely rich, yellow yolks and great flavour.

Basic scrambled eggs

SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

25–40g (1–1½oz) butter

2–4 slices of white or brown bread

1 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add 15g (½oz) of the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, then immediately pour in the eggs and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously (I find a wooden spatula best for this), until the butter has melted and they are softly scrambled. Remove from the heat immediately so that the eggs don’t become overcooked.

2 Meanwhile, pop the slices of bread into a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast until golden brown. Remove and spread with the remaining butter, then place on plates, spoon over the cooked eggs and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with smoked mackerel, chives and parsley

SERVES 2

1 smoked mackerel fillet (about 110g/4oz in weight)

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g (½oz) butter

1 tsp finely chopped chives

1 tsp finely chopped parsley

1 Remove the skin from the mackerel fillet, scraping off any dark residue left behind, then flake the flesh into small pieces.

2 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe left.

3 Stir the flaked mackerel into the scrambled eggs, along with the chives and parsley. Check the seasoning and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with sautied mushrooms and chives

SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

1 tbsp sunflower oil

25g (1oz) butter

75g (3oz) mushrooms, quartered

Squeeze of lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 Heat the sunflower oil with half the butter in a medium-sized frying pan on a gentle heat and sauté the mushrooms for 4–5 minutes or until softened and turning golden. Squeeze over the lemon juice and season well with salt and pepper before removing from the heat with a slotted spoon.

2 Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the remaining butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe opposite.

3 Stir in the chives and sautéed mushrooms and check the seasoning. Divide between plates and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with crispy bawn and grujire cheese

SERVES 2

1 tbsp olive oil

3 rashers of streaky bacon, cut into slices

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g (½oz) butter

25g (1oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated

1 tbsp finely chopped parsley

1 Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and sauté the bacon for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

2 Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe opposite.

3 Stir in the cooked bacon, Gruyère and parsley. Check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary, and serve immediately.

Mexican scrambled eggs: huevos revueltos

SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

15g (½oz) butter

6 cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 tsp finely chopped red or green chilli

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp finely chopped red onion

1 tbsp roughly chopped coriander

1 Melt the butter in a small saucepan on a medium heat, add the tomatoes and chilli and cook for 2–3 minutes, covered with a lid, until they are soft.

2 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with a good pinch of salt and some pepper and beat together. Pour into the tomato and chilli mixture, reduce the heat and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously, until the eggs are softly scrambled.

3 Stir in the onion and coriander and check the seasoning. Divide between plates and serve the eggs either on their own or on top of warm tortillas or buttered toast.

Eggs Benedict

SERVES 2–4

The secret of poaching eggs is to use the freshest, highest-quality eggs you can find. These eggs are seriously dolled up, but you can of course serve them more simply on toast. Prepare the hollandaise sauce first and keep warm while you cook everything else.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

2 English muffins, sliced in half

25g (1oz) butter

4 slices (about 110g/4oz) of ham or grilled rashers of bacon

150ml (5fl oz) hollandaise sauce (see page 331)

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 Fill a saucepan with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to a gentle simmer. Crack the eggs one by one into a small cup and slide it into the water. The water should not boil, but remain bubbling gently. Cook the eggs for 2–3 minutes or until the whites are set and the yolks still runny. Lift out carefully with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper.

2 Meanwhile, lightly toast the muffins in a toaster or under a preheated grill and butter the cut side. Put the muffin halves on plates and arrange a folded ham slice or grilled bacon rasher on top of each. Place a poached egg on top and spoon over the hollandaise sauce. Scatter with the chopped chives, grind some black pepper over the top and serve immediately.

Variation

Vegetarian eggs Benedict: Try this take on eggs Florentine (eggs served with spinach) by melting 25g (1oz) butter in a frying pan and sautéing 200g (7oz) spinach leaves, seasoned with salt and pepper, for 2–3 minutes or until wilted. Drain on kitchen paper and arrange on the muffin halves in place of the ham. Top with the poached egg, hollandaise sauce and chives, to serve.

Spotted dog

MAKES 1 LOAF · VEGETARIAN

This is a rich white soda bread with dried fruit added to make it ‘spotted'. It is also called ‘railway cake’ in some parts of Ireland, dating from the time when people took the train everywhere, with a currant for each station. A real family favourite of ours, it’s divine served straight from the oven, cut into slices and smothered in butter and jam or toasted and topped with cheese.

450g (1lb) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp caster sugar

110g (4oz) sultanas, raisins or currants (or a mixture)

1 egg

400ml (14fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.

2 Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large bowl, stir in the sugar and dried fruit and make a well in the centre. Beat the egg and buttermilk or soured milk together and pour most of it in (leaving about 50ml/2fl oz in the measuring jug).

3 Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together moving your hand in circles around the bowl, adding a little more buttermilk if necessary. Don’t knead the mixture or it will become too heavy. The dough should be softish but not too wet and sticky.

4 Once it comes together, turn onto a floured work surface and bring together a little more. Pat the dough into a round, about 6cm (2½in) in height, and cut a deep cross in it, from one side of the loaf to the other. Place on a baking tray lightly dusted with flour.

5 Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and bake for a further 30–35 minutes. I often turn the loaf upside down for the last 5 minutes of cooking to help crisp the bottom. When cooked the bread will be golden and sound hollow when tapped on the base. Allow to cool on a wire rack before cutting into thick slices to serve.

Variation

Spotted dog scones: Make the spotted dog dough as above but flatten into a round about 2.5cm (lin) deep. Cut into scones using a cookie cutter or knife and bake for 15–20 minutes at 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8.

Potato and onion frittata with grujire and thyme

SERVES 6 – 8 · VEGETARIAN

Frittata is a thick Italian omelette that can be made with a variety of different cheeses, vegetables and herbs. It’s a great way of using up leftover cooked potatoes, and is equally delicious served hot straight from the pan for breakfast or at room temperature for a picnic.

300g (11oz) (about 1 large or 2 small) waxy potatoes, peeled (and halved if large)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and sliced

8 eggs

50g (2oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated

110ml (4fl oz) single or regular cream

1 tbsp thyme leaves

Bunch of spring onions, sliced

25cm (10in) diameter ovenproof frying pan with a lid

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes or until tender. Drain the potatoes well and return to the pan on a very low heat to dry out for a minute or so. Remove from the heat, tip out onto a plate to cool a little and roughly dice.

3 Meanwhile, pour half the olive oil into the ovenproof frying pan on a gentle heat. Add the onion, cover with a lid and cook gently for 6–8 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft and slightly golden. Remove from the pan, spread out on a large plate and set aside to cool a little.

4 Next, whisk the eggs in a large bowl, then add the remaining ingredients and the cooked onions and potatoes, season with salt and pepper and gently stir together.

5 Place the remaining olive oil in the ovenproof pan and pour in the egg mixture, stirring briefly to distribute the ingredients evenly. Cook on a gentle heat for a few minutes until the mixture begins to set on the bottom, then bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes or until the mixture is set in the centre.

6 Remove the pan from the oven and allow the frittata to cool for a couple of minutes before sliding it onto a large serving plate. Cut into wedges to serve.

Kedgeree

SERVES 6 – 8

This classic dish is perfect for entertaining, whether for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. It’s so easy to increase the quantities to feed lots of people. I love the addition of wild rice in this recipe, but it’s fine to use just basmati rice (white or brown) if you prefer. There are quite a few different elements to cook in this recipe, but then it’s just a matter of assembling all the individual ingredients. Serve this simply on its own, or with some mango chutney and a green salad.

150g (5oz) wild rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

350g (12oz) white or brown basmati rice

500g (1lb 2oz) smoked haddock (about 2 medium fillets)

25g (1oz) butter

350ml (12fl oz) milk

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp coriander seeds

4 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced

½ tsp cayenne pepper

½ tsp garam masala

10 eggs, at room temperature

225g (8oz) fresh or frozen peas

2 tbsp chopped coriander or parsley

2 tbsp chopped chives

50ml (2fl oz) single or regular cream

1 Tip the wild rice and a pinch of salt into a saucepan of boiling water and cook on a medium heat for about 45 minutes until the rice is cooked but with a tiny bite still left. Add the basmati rice and a pinch of salt to another saucepan of boiling water and cook until tender. (White basmati rice will take 10–12 minutes to cook and brown basmati rice 25–30 minutes.) Drain well and return both to one pan to keep warm.

2 Meanwhile, place the smoked haddock in a wide saucepan and add the butter, milk and a pinch of black pepper. Bring slowly to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10–12 minutes or until the fish is cooked. When it is ready it will begin to fall apart in chunks. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

3 Place a very large frying pan on a high heat and toast the cumin and coriander seeds for a few seconds until just a shade darker, then remove the seeds and roughly crush them. (If you don’t have a pestle and mortar, simply tip them out onto a chopping board and crush them with a rolling pin or the base of a pan.)

4 Return the pan to a medium heat and add the olive oil. Tip in the onions and sauté for 4–5 minutes or until just turning golden. Add the crushed cumin and coriander seeds, along with the cayenne pepper and garam masala. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook the onions for 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until completely soft.

5 While the onions are cooking, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, gently lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon and boil for just 6 minutes until semi-hard boiled. Drain the eggs and run cold water over them to stop them cooking. Peel them once they are cool enough to handle and cut into quarters.

6 Tip the peas into a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 1–2 minutes or until tender, then drain. Meanwhile, the haddock should now be cool enough to handle, so remove from the milk (reserving the milk for later), peel away the skin, remove any bones and flake the fish into chunks of about 1cm (½in).

7 Now that everything is cooked and prepared, you are ready to assemble the dish. Remove the lid covering the onions and, leaving the pan on a low heat, add the drained wild and basmati rice, the peas and half of each of the coriander or parsley and chives, stirring to mix. Pour over the cream, along with 50ml (2fl oz) of the milk the fish was cooked in, and gently stir to loosen the whole mixture slightly. Add the flaked haddock pieces, season with salt and pepper, to taste, and stir gently together.

8 Transfer the kedgeree to a wide, shallow serving dish or plate and arrange the quartered eggs on top and around the sides, then sprinkle with the remaining chopped herbs and serve.

Weekend fry-up

SERVES 1

Not something for breakfast every morning, of course, but there are times when this is just what you need to keep you going for the rest of the day. A fry-up is great when friends are staying — simply multiply the ingredients given below by however many people you are feeding. Source the best local ingredients you can and follow up with a big walk. If you prefer your eggs boiled or poached, see pages 25 and 30.