Moscow Diary. By An American Living in Moscow

While sitting on a bench near the Bolshoi Theatre, I saw a very elegantly dressed woman in conversation with a young man, Yuri. She wore a coat made of fur that I’d never seen before. I asked if I could take her picture, so I could show it to my fashionista friends. She agreed and left shortly afterwards. Yuri then came over and introduced himself in perfect English. He wanted to know all about me, where was I from, what was I doing in Moscow, and so on. He then told me he was a bass-baritone at the Bolshoi. I was over the moon to hear that because I’m passionate about opera, so we talked about singers and operas for a long time. I was quite excited to receive a message from him a few weeks later inviting me as his guest to hear him sing the role of Figaro at the Bolshoi. He sometimes leaves me messages of him singing his favorite Frank Sinatra songs. He’s determined to perfect his American pronunciation, so I’m always on call to approve any audiobook he’s considering, as many aren’t spoken by Americans.

CHAPTER 5

Daily Life In Moscow

It’s rarely publicized, but in February 2023, the United Nations published its Global Cities Ranking for 2022 and awarded Moscow the top spot among major cities for quality of life and infrastructure, praising the metropolis for its transportation and the well-being of its citizens. The ranking accounts for a total of 14 indicators, such as health, education, recreation, safety, housing and social infrastructure, information and communications technology, and urban mobility. (APPENDIX I lists Moscow’s must-see places.)

When I arrived in Moscow, I was overwhelmed by the size of the city. It covers an area of 970 square miles (2,512 square kilometers). Moscow’s population is estimated at 13 million residents within the city limits. The city has over 40 percent of its territory covered by greenery, making it one of the greenest cities in Europe and the world. Its architectural diversity encompasses cathedrals built in the 1400s, private mansions from every century, Stalinist-style architecture from 1947 to 1953, and seven of the nine tallest skyscrapers in Europe. In spite of its size, the city doesn’t have the unsightly or noisy features of most megaregions. It’s incredibly clean, no litter, graffiti, homeless or drug addicts on the streets as you walk around. Fear of being robbed or harmed is non-existent. People are respectful and polite. During heavy traffic, you’ll hear little, if any, honking. Motorcycles aren’t allowed to weave through traffic at high speeds, though the police allow them to race at night in special areas. You’ll find that on trains, busses and restaurants conversations are muted. In short, the senses are not needlessly bombarded with negative sights and sounds, keeping irritations at a minimum. In a word, it’s a very civilized place to live. Moscow has grown to become one of the world’s largest urban economies, and the city is one of the fastest-growing tourist destinations in the world.

Everything in Moscow is big. The monuments, markets, parks, highways, malls, sidewalks, and even the size of the carrots are larger in scale than most I’ve seen. Taxis are a great way to see a variety of areas, but also the slowest because of traffic.

Most residents use the metro, as it’s the fastest and most reliable way to travel. I always study the metro map to plan my trips. The signage at the stations is easy to follow and a passerby is always willing to help. Moscow metro stations are architectural wonders. You’ll also find that they’re safe and clean as you wait for the trains, which are efficient and timely.

Moscow is Russia’s largest industrial city. Nearly 30% of the workforce is employed in industry and industrial research: Metallurgy, metal processing, and engineering are the largest industrial sectors. Other large sectors are textiles, clothing, footwear, chemicals, electronic instruments, and automation equipment.

Taxis

Unlike most large cities, it’s impossible to hail a taxi on the street in Moscow. Taxis are ordered only by phone application and usually from a convenient spot where a taxi can legally stop. They’re plentiful and arrive in less than five minutes. Once your location is identified by the app, a taxi is ordered and you determine the price by the comfort level of the taxi you select. Once ordered, you’re given the color, model, and license plate of the taxi and the driver’s name. You can watch it on your phone as it travels to you. The fare is charged on your debit card, so no cash is required, but you can also pay in cash if you wish. All drivers have GPS, thus allowing navigation to your destination. It’s a safe, efficient system with no surprises about the fare.

In most Russian cities, car sharing is a popular, convenient, and inexpensive mode of transportation. Usually, a person has three or four services to contact by app on their phone. One of them will have a car available within a five-minute walk of your location. The phone app unlocks the car and starts the motor. The car can be deposited virtually anywhere.

Moscow Transportation Network

Moscow is served by a comprehensive transit network, which includes four international airports, 10 railway terminals, a tram system, a monorail system, and, most notably, the Moscow Metro, the busiest metro system in Europe, and one of the largest rapid transit systems in the world.

I zip around Moscow on the metro regularly. I can time my trip almost to the tee, as the stations are two minutes apart and trains arrive usually in less than two minutes. The 15 lines are color coded, and with sufficient signage to guide you. It’s very clean and safe, with no graffiti or homeless people in sight, and with plenty of security everywhere.

Opened in 1935, the state-owned Moscow Metro is 237 miles (381 kilometers) long and consists of 15 lines and 258 stations organized in a spoke-hub distribution paradigm, with the majority of rail lines running radially from the center of Moscow to the outlying areas. The stations were constructed in the style of socialist classicism and were meant as underground “palaces of the people.”

As of 2023, the Moscow Metro had 258 stations (295 if you include the Moscow Central Circle and the Monorail). The Moscow Metro is a world leader in the frequency of train traffic, with intervals during peak hours never exceeding 90 seconds. The metro is open from approximately 5:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Each line is identified according to an alphanumeric index (usually consisting of a number), a name, and a color. The lines are also assigned specific colors on maps and signs. Free Wi-Fi is called MT_FREE and available on all 15 lines (inside the trains). A trip costs 65 cents in U.S. currency.

Phone Services

Free Wi-Fi is available throughout Moscow. Most everyone has a smartphone, or the equivalent, with a translation feature, so communication is possible between people who speak different languages. Phone contract prices vary based on multiple options, like elsewhere. The bill can be paid instantly and directly from your bank account.

Sometimes I forget to add minutes, so the phone stops working. This happened when I first arrived in Moscow. I was in a store getting ready to make a call when my phone wouldn’t work. I looked around and saw two men in their 20’s, and they said they spoke a little English. I showed them my phone, shrugged my shoulders, raised my hands, and shook my head in confusion. One of them took the phone, and after discussing the problem, said, «Needs money.» Realizing I couldn’t send money without the phone working, one of the men sent 500 rubles from his bank account to pay my phone charges and it activated my phone instantly. Having no idea this was possible, I was flabbergasted. It worked so quickly, and the man was kind enough to help me out. I then paid him 500 rubles in cash, thanked him profusely, and made the call.

Banking

I thought it would be difficult to open a bank account in Moscow, but it was simple. I chose Sberbank, the largest. After presenting my passport and visa, it was done very quickly. I opened three accounts, one each for U.S. dollars, euros, and rubles. I was given a debit card in rubles. Only Russian citizens can get a credit card or a loan. Dollars and euros could be deposited in those currencies and the bank would then exchange them for rubles. The debit card was only for rubles. My laptop and smartphone were both uploaded with Sberbank’s banking application, from which I could perform transactions instantly. I could transfer my dollars/euros from the U.S. or Europe directly into these accounts via Swift overnight.

Things changed with the sanctions. I had only been in Moscow a few months when Sberbank was sanctioned. It meant I could no longer receive funds from the U.S. and Europe. So, I began a search for an unsanctioned bank. I went through the same process again with Alfa Bank, and set up all the necessary accounts. A few weeks later, it was also sanctioned. The third time I chose a bank headquartered in Italy, UniCredit Bank which has offices all over Moscow. I was becoming an expert in Russian banking. The process was the same in each bank and the banking rules are consistent. U.S. dollars and euros can be deposited but not withdrawn as of now. All currencies must be changed to rubles.

Each bank has applications for laptops or phones. I can move money by phone instantly to any of my accounts, as well as pay a bill or send money to an individual, free of charge. Checks are not used in Russia. A savings account for deposits pays 4.93% interest.

I now have nine accounts in three currencies in three banks. I’m keeping them all open just in case.

International Media and Internet Access

To the disbelief of my American and European friends, I’m able to access any media in the world, via any search engine like Google, Yandex (the Russian search engine), DuckDuckGo, Bing, YouTube, or Telegram. I can find any news outlet video or podcast I wish. Internet is available on the metro and buses, in parks – almost everywhere in central Moscow – for free.

Cost of Living in Moscow

My experience is that the cost of living in Moscow is about 50% less than Europe and far less than the United States. Numbeo is a crowd-sourced online database of perceived consumer prices, real property prices, and quality-of-life metrics. There you can compare living costs and quality-of-life metrics between any two cities in the world in any currency. It’s fascinating to compare cities and very useful for anyone contemplating a relocation. Their website is: https://www.numbeo.com

Restaurants and Cafe’s in Moscow

Every type of international cuisine is available in Moscow for any taste or budget. The Michelin Guide Moscow 2022 includes 69 restaurants.

Russian ethnic restaurants are also plentiful, representing gastronomy from former Soviet republics such as Georgia, Uzbekistan, and Ukraine. You can also find a variety of restaurants of typical Russian cuisine, from Russian fast food and buffets to Russian haute cuisine restaurants. Most restaurants have delivery services to all parts of Moscow.

Self-service or buffet-style restaurants are ideal for the budget-conscious. You can find them in central locations and in shopping centers. The quality and diversity of food available is consistently high.

Food Markets in Moscow

This is a paradise for «foodies.» There are several huge, covered warehouse markets selling every kind of food product – fresh, frozen, local, or imported – that cater to businesses or individuals. While fascinating to experience, their size can be overwhelming for personal shopping. I prefer smaller-scale supermarkets, which are plentiful. The product selections in the different supermarket chains reflect the brands and prices of the products sold. Finally, there are gourmet stores that feature high-end Russian and imported fresh and packaged foods. Both the supermarkets and gourmet stores have very large selections of prepared foods, which are very fresh and moderately priced.

In spring and summer, there are many covered markets throughout the city that specialize in the best fruits, vegetables, dairy, and pastries frequently coming from the southern parts of Russia or former Soviet republics, many of which are premier agricultural regions.

Dachas and Banyas

Muscovites live in apartments up to 30 stories high. A very high percentage have a dacha outside the city where they spend weekends and holidays. Most of the dachas are located in specific geographic areas dedicated to dacha communities. Many dachas have been passed down through generations, though many new dachas are also being built today. They all have «kitchen gardens,» where fruits and vegetables are grown and harvested for the winter months. Forests usually surround the dacha «communities,» where mushrooms and berries are collected by all.

A Russian banya is a type of a steam sauna that’s usually heated in a stove. It’s an old tradition that’s existed in Russia for centuries. Steam bathing is considered good for relaxation and health, an opportunity to spend quality time with friends, family, and colleagues, and a way to socialize that bypasses the usual boundaries, creating an atmosphere of camaraderie. Since ancient times, the banya has been considered an important bonding place in Russian culture.

Modern Russian banyas are divided into men and women areas. Swimwear isn’t used, with everyone getting completely naked and wrapping themselves with towels. Another element of the banya is being smacked briskly with a bunch of leafy branches, which provides a unique detox for the whole body and helps boost the immune system. Many families have a banya in their country homes, or dachas. It’s used as a shower, sauna, and bath combined.

I was invited to visit the dacha of Galina, the mother of my friend from St. Petersburg. She and I exchanged gifts frequently on her son’s visits to France. She kept me supplied with honey, fruit jams, and the finest pickled cucumbers. Her garden is quite large, and she’s out there working from morning to sunset. I helped her harvest cucumbers, after which we pickled them. We also made fresh apple juice from her trees and she taught me to make blinis. She prepared a banya for me (my first), together with hot/cold water, soap, steam, and a mild «thrashing» with branches of leaves. I repeated the process for her. Then we finished it off with a shot of cognac. She sent me back to Moscow with a huge supply of cucumbers and herbs to make my own pickles.

CHAPTER 6

Social Life In Russia

Russians enjoy an active and spirited social life. Gatherings of family and friends are frequent and usually take place around the kitchen table, where food is abundant and toasts are frequent. Musical talents are encouraged throughout society, so usually someone plays an instrument, or sings and the group joins in singing along. Sometimes even dancing breaks out. Children are also encouraged to participate by performing. Starting at five or six years old, they learn to recite poems and recite fairy tales by famous Russian poets.

Telling anecdotes or jokes is also a form of entertainment. They’re considered a form of literature, and may be ribald, historical, or cultural, sometimes all three at once. It’s a way for guests to show their historical and cultural knowledge and to entertain the group. Some of the anecdotes also have recurring characters and, with their intrinsic quirks and similar patterns, constitute entire series of jokes.

Russian anecdotes can be about everything and anything: politics, stereotypes, nationalities, professions, religion, life and death. Joking about tragedies or tabooed topics is also okay, and most people consider the use of explicit language acceptable if it’s essential for telling a story. It doesn’t really matter if everyone already knows the anecdote. Telling a well-known anecdote in a new or different way is much appreciated. Knowing and sharing the same anecdotes create the feeling of fellowship among people.

Mikhail Prishvin’s works are full of poetry, vivid descriptions of nature, and they display an exceptional keenness of observation. The anecdote below is a parody of his style. Reciting it will bring loud applause from the guests who’ve previously heard variations of it. While his house is burning, he calls home and says:

«Nearby, mixed with the chirping of birds and the unobtrusive whisper of the wind, as if illuminating the green waves of a birch grove with crimson, enveloping the heat like the summer sun in the midst of a sultry, stuffy July summer, emitting a light haze like a rising mist from the sprawling surface of the lake at dawn, scaring away the forest inhabitants – hardworking beavers, wise hedgehogs and carefree whistlers. The house is burning down.

No, it is no longer necessary to send the car.»

Well-known Russian Proverbs

«The turkey also thought but ended in the soup.»

«The quieter you go the further you’ll get.»

«Husband is a head, wife is a neck. The head looks to where the neck turns»

«Work loves fools.» (People who love working aren’t too smart.)

«Eyes are scared but hands do.» (Don’t be afraid by looking at how much you need to accomplish, just start doing it.)

«A Russian harnesses slowly but rides fast.»

«An affectionate calf sucks from two mothers.» (Being nice helps you to get benefits from different people.)

«Trust but check»

«Measure seven times before cutting once.»

«Every hut has its own rattles.»

«Morning is wiser than evening.»

«Don’t go to another monastery with your own rules.»

Soviet Humor

“Every other Friday a guard at the wheelbarrow factory saw a worker coming out of the factory pushing a wheelbarrow packed with hay. The guard searched inside the hay, found nothing, and let the guy go. This ritual repeated over several years until a time when the guard was about to retire from the wheelbarrow factory. When the guy pushing the wheelbarrow appeared at the gate, he told him: “I know you’re stealing something from the wheelbarrow factory. I’m just about to retire and this is my last day here. I won’t tell anybody, but please let me know what you’re stealing from the wheelbarrow factory!” The guy smiled and answered, “Oh, I’m stealing the wheelbarrows.””

Customer: «I want to sign up for the waiting list for a car. How long is it?»

Clerk: «Precisely 10 years from today.»

Customer: «Morning or evening?»

Clerk: «Why, what difference does it make?»

Customer: «The plumber’s due in the morning.»

“The C.I.A. sent a spy to the Soviet Union who had incredible qualifications. He was fluent in Russian, had a vast knowledge of Soviet culture and mannerisms, and could keep up his act with a belly full of vodka. The spy was dropped in a remote village where he approached a man and said, in perfect Russian, ‘Hello comrade, can you please tell me which direction is Moscow?” The man looked at him, then walked inside. Within minutes, the K.G.B. was swarming the village and arrested the spy. While being interrogated, the K.G.B. officials said, “Quit the act, we know you’re an American spy.” The spy was baffled that they were able to tell so quickly, but tried to keep up the act for as long as he could. When he finally cracked, he said, “Alright, alright, I’m a spy. I will tell you whatever you want, but please just tell me how you knew I was a spy because I devoted my whole life to perfecting my Soviet character.” The official said, “You’re black.””

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