Beeton's Book of Needlework

ILLUSTRATION 222 (The Ribbed Stitch).–This stitch is worked backwards and forwards–that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the following row.

ILLUSTRATION 223 (Slanting Stitch, double stitch).–This stitch is worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 224 (Cross Stitch).–This stitch is worked like No. 223 on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two upper sides of a stitch.

Illustration 225 (Long Double).–For this stitch wind the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 226 (Treble Stitch).–These stitches are worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the preceding row.

ILLUSTRATION 227 (Long Treble).–These are worked like treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton round the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (Cross Treble).–Illustration 229 shows this stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 232 (Raised Spots).–The grounding on which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:–1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.

ILLUSTRATION 233 (Hollow Spots).–The ground is worked in double crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the spot.

ILLUSTRATION 234 (Open-work Spots).–These spots are treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).

ILLUSTRATION 235 (Raised Treble Stitch).–These stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.

ILLUSTRATION 236 (Purl Stitch).–These purl stitches imitate a lace edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.

ILLUSTRATION 237 (Purl Stitch turned upwards).–Work 1 treble, then 7 chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.

ILLUSTRATION 238 (Purl Stitch turned downwards).–The chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.

CROCHET PATTERNS

239.–Small Crochet Basket.

Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.

For the bottom:Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.

2nd round:Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.

3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last round.

4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by working twice into it.

5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.

For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.

2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.

3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over wire.

240 to 243.–Couvrette in Crochet.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and steel crochet needle.

This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No. 240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size.

For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a circle.

1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain stitches.

2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet.

3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1.

4th round: The same as the preceding–the 1 double always on the 3rd chain.

5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of each loop.

6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia.

13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1 double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round.

14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between.

18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large circle is completed. Six of these are required.

For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a round.

1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet.

2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.

3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:–1 treble in the centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.

When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in illustration 217, and work the border as follows:–

1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8 chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8 chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1 trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round.

2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch. Repeat from *.

3rd and 4th rounds:The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain.

5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and 3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round.

6th round: The same as the 5th.

7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette.

244.–Star in Crochet.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.

A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c.

The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss 4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle under the 5th. Repeat 13 times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as follows:–

1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat from * 5 times more.

2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1 double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then 12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances.

245.–Crochet Silk Bag over Rings.

Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; rings.

Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.

For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.

246.–Crochet Sovereign Purse.

Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.

The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when required.

The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the upper side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the least difficulty from the illustration.

247.–Stars in Crochet.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.

This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.

Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the centre.

1st branch.–1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.

2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.

1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form a circle.

2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round.

3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:–

1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times more.

2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual–that is, above the chain–4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from *.

Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

248.–Crochet Purse over Rings.

Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize coarse purse silk.

Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the centre ring for the bottom of the purse.

Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished, join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and place them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise. For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the 8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 rounds of single open crochet.

6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1 chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into the next loop, repeat from *.

7th round:Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.

8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2 stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.