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Beeton's Book of Needlework
Beeton's Book of Needleworkполная версия

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Beeton's Book of Needlework

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326.–Baby's Boot.

Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool; steel knitting-needles.

This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upper scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:–1st and 2nd rounds: With red wool, purled.

3rd to 8th round: With white wool.

3rd round: Knitted.

4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *.

5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3 stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be decreased in this round.

6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th.

8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.

9th to 11th round:With red wool.

9th round: Knitted.

10th and 11th rounds: Purled.

12th to 30th round: With white wool.

12th round: Knitted.

13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the needle in the back part of the stitch.

31st to 33rd round: With red wool.

31st round: Knitted.

32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.

34th and 35th rounds: With white wool.

34th round: Knitted.

35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in the next round.

36th to 38th round: With red wool.

36th round: Knitted.

37th and 38th rounds: Purled.

39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches.



Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool.

48th to 50th row: With red wool.

48th row: Knitted.

49th row: Purled.

50th row: Knitted.

51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red wool.

86th row: Knitted.

87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1.

Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside; then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to match.

327.–Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton; thick steel pins.

Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:

5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.

Then 5 more plain rows.



Now begin the pattern:–

1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 slantways (to knit a stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more than from * to the end of the row.

2nd row: Purled.

3rd row:Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.

4th row: The same as the second.

The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The increasing caused by knitting the made stitches is regularly repeated in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the 28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th row. Two rows entirely purled complete the upper edge of the border.

328.–Knitted Quilt.

Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.

This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is knitted the short way.



For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches.

2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.

3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding row, and purl all those that were made.

4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.

5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.

6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.

7th row: The same as the 5th.

8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on.

9th row: The same as the 5th row.

10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *.

11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.

12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.

13th row: The same as the 11th.

14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, purl 4, and repeat.

15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2 together, knit 2.

The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4 more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the quilt all round with a knotted fringe.

329.–Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera Caps, Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &c.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20, or fine wool.

Cast on an uneven number of stitches.

1st row: Slip 1, * make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from *.

2nd row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row.


330 and 331.–Knitted Veil.

Material: Fine Shetland wool.



Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The original was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged with a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. Work the veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that of illustration 330. Compare the paper shape often with the knitting in the course of the work, and try to keep them alike.

Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern of illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of the veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work

the 1st row: * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeat from *.

2nd row: Purled.

3rd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *.

4th row: Purled.

5th row: Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be reversed. The pattern figures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the end of each row.

The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:–

1st row: Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2 together.

2nd row: Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward in the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it over paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the following lace:–Cast on 10, knit the 1st.

2nd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9.

3rd row: Knitted.

4th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, knit 4.

5th row: Knitted.

6th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3.

7th row: Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10.

8th row: Knitted.



332.–Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 20.

This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thick or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. The star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in point de poste. Cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitches are necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * Knit 11 stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. Repeat from *, The 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in this row, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted with the cotton thrown forward after the stitch, the last stitch of a plain square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. The number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The pattern consists alternately of these two rows. Each pattern contains 12 rows, with the 13th the squares are reversed. The star figures are embroidered with double cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square; draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square.

333 and 334.–Knitted Table Cover, (see page 578.)

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting cotton; thick steel knitting-needles.



This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as the pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable for antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the 1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

2nd round: Entirely knitted.

3rd round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7 times more from *. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain. Until after the 21st round, we shall not mention this any more.

5th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From the 7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increase by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches between those formed by throwing the cotton forward.

13th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together *.

15th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *.

17th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *.

19th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, *.

21st round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.

22nd round: * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 *.

23rd round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.

24th round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.

25th round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 4.

26th round: Entirely knitted *.

27th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 1 *.

28th round: Entirely knitted.

29th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.

30th round: Entirely knitted.

31st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.

32nd round: Entirely knitted.

33rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *.

34th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.

35th round: * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton forward, knit 5 *.

36th round: * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6 *.

37th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw the cotton forward, knit 1 *.

38th round: * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8 *.

39th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.

40th round: * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*.

41st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.

42nd round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4 *.

43rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *.

44th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.

When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the following border worked the short way:–Cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row, slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.

2nd row: Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after every pattern row.

3rd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

5th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.

7th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

9th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.

11th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.

13th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.

15th round: Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

16th round: Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st row, knit a sufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on the outer edge.


335.–Looped Knitting.

Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flat wooden mesh.

Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain.

2nd Row--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch, and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch; place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the wool which is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle so that it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. Then only the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insert the needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained. Knit the last stitch without a loop.

3rd Row--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one plain row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attain the same number of stitches as in the 1st row.

4th Row--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often as required.

This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats.


336.–Knitted Pattern for Comforters.

Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles.

Cast on a sufficient number of stitches.

1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 3 stitches together, repeat from *.

2nd row: Plain knitting.

3rd row: Purled.

4th row: Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3 stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1 stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed on the one formed by knitting 3 stitches together.

337.–Knitted D'Oyley. (See page 579.)

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36; glazed embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles.

This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The middle part as well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn on to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts are worked in afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern in the centre, cast on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds.

3rd round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.

4th and 5th rounds: Plain.

6th round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.

7th round: Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall not mention these plain rounds any more.

8th round: Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

10th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.

12th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.

14th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.

16th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.

The 18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; only the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches in every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24th round between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same by throwing the cotton forward.

[353] 26th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together.

28th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.

30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.

32nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.

34th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward.

36th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward.

38th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.

40th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward.

42nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.

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