Beeton's Book of Needlework

272 and 273.–Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work.

Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.

This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed for many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon form the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet must be damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, and when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the beginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last round over wire.

It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket, which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds.

It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a little wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire to the straws.

The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middle with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle, working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked over wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece of bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which forms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats, ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.

274 and 275.–Two Crochet Borders.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80.

No. 274.–Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30 and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the length required.

1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain.

2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11 chain, miss 7. Repeat from *.

3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. Repeat from *.

4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1 chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border. The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet.

5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1 double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5 chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1 double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small points repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last point of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in 2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration.)

No. 275.–The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (i.e., 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn and work

the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch between the 2 purl.

2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on.

The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make 12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from * 6 times more.

In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completed fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread, joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2 or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.

276.–Crochet Antimacassar

Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10

This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it

1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat.

2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1 loop, and repeat.

3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7 chain, and repeat.

4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2 more double crochet, and repeat.

5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make 9 chain, and repeat.

6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1 chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round.

7th round: 1 long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and repeat.

8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. This completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving will make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. If a round couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than the others; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8 circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in each row till you have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels are required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cotton over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at one end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an inch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will be sufficient.

277.–Crochet Insertion.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40.

The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always two opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, join them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chain stitches. Work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double round the 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and work 10 chain scallops as follows:–3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5 chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in the last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To get to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in the middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on the needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described, and so on.

278 and 279.–Tobacco Pouch in Crochet Work.

Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread.

The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star. With crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into a circle. Work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch.

5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on.

6th round: All gold stitches.

7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on.

8th round: All crimson stitches.

9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c.

10th round: Similar to the preceding.

11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c.

12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre gold stitches of preceding round, &c.

13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.

14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c.

15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.

16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c.

17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of preceding round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c.

18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7 crimson stitches, &c.

Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No. 279. The centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The border round the top is of the same colours.

Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round of gold scallops.

In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off with small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouch fasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and one black. The pouch is lined with white kid.

280 and 281.–Crochet Rosettes.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4, 24, or 40.

These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, or for making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with which they are worked.

280.–Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle and work the 1st round; 44 double.

2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round under them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *.

3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, * 5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble, 1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat 10 times more from *. Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which is ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in illustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chain stitch.

281.–Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and work the 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8 stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2 long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitch before the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. The first leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times more from *. Join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the 11 chain stitch.

2nd round: (Fasten on the cotton afresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between.

3rd round: 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is then completed.

282.–Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Appliqué, and Velvet Ribbon.

This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented with embroidery patterns worked in appliqué, and velvet ribbon drawn through. They are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. Begin on a sufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by 20, and work the1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches of the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:–10 chain, without reckoning the loop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is wound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, wind the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with the loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches of the foundation, and repeat from *.

2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting the needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between.

3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain, 1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *.

4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain; repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on the other side of the foundation chain.

When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that 2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns and velvet ribbon.

283.–Crochet Insertion.

This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or pillowcases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If the insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle of one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches; join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:–* 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4 slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes the star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following rows:–

1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4 placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *.

2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *.

3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *.

4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:–

1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next purl. Repeat from *.

2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.

3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches.

4th row: Like the 2nd row.

5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *.

284.–Crochet Insertion.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.

This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitches as follows:–1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers, which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1 long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consists of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower is completed.

285.–Crochet Garter.

Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white elastic cord; a pearl button.

This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.

Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain. Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing 1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the button-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk.

286.–Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle to match.

This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following manner:–Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring.

1st round: 8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1 treble.

2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain. Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning.

3rd round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette. Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same manner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7 times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of these stars are required for each shoulder.

For the Border.–It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and sleeves.

1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of the rosette, which we will call the first rosette; 5 chain, 1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette (see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next space, where a cross is to be made.

2nd round: Work alternately 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:–1 double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross.