Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., May 21-October 16, 1839, part 1

183

The river was named by Captain William Clark in honor of his fellow explorer, Captain Meriwether Lewis, the latter being the first white man to visit its banks. Later, the term Snake was more frequently applied, because that tribe of Indians ranged within the basin of this river. The word Saptin (Shahaptin) is derived from a stock of Indians, of whom the Nez Percés are the most prominent branch. – Ed.

184

By Long's range, Farnham intends what is now known as Front range, with Long's Peak, James's (now Pike's) Peak, and Pike's (now the Spanish Peaks) as its outposts. For his use of these terms see ante, pp. 111, 184, 283, notes 50, 111, 166. The Great Gap is South Pass, for which see our volume xxi, p. 58, note 37. – Ed.

185

These spurs are the boundaries of South and Middle Parks, for which see ante, pp. 199, 221, notes 123, 132. – Ed.

186

The range described by Farnham as the Snowy Mountains, refers to the Sierra Nevada; but is an incorrect description. The mountains he saw north-east and north-west of Fort Hall, covered with perpetual snow, were part of the main Rocky Mountains trending westward from Yellowstone Park. The President's range is that now known as Cascade Mountains, in which Mounts Jefferson and Adams perpetuate the memory of those early executives. – Ed.

187

For a brief description of this range see Townsend's Narrative in our volume xxi, p. 184, note 35. – Ed.

188

For these three streams, which rise farther west than here indicated, see De Smet's Letters in our volume xxvii, p. 224, note 92. – Ed.

189

For Grand River see ante, p. 223, note 135. – Ed.

190

The South Platte rises in South Park (Bayou Salade), flows east and then north-east, and breaking through Front Range at Platte Cañon, above Denver, continues in a nearly northward course to old Fort St. Vrain; it then turns abruptly east across the great plains, and unites with the North Platte in western Nebraska. – Ed.

191

For Wyeth and the founding of Fort Hall see our volume xxi, especially pp. 210, 211. The fort was built in 1833 (not 1832). The nearest Hudson's Bay post was Fort Walla Walla, for which see volume xxi, p. 278, note 73. – Ed.

192

For the Wallawalla Indians see Ross's Oregon Settlers, in our volume vii, p. 137, note 37. – Ed.

193

For the Three Buttes see our volume xxi, p. 209, note 49. – Ed.

194

By western, Farnham intends the southern bank of the Lewis, where passed the usual trail from Fort Hall. Rough as it was, the southern bank was less cut with gulleys and rapid torrent beds than the northern. – Ed.

195

The term Digger Indians has no ethnological significance, but was applied to degraded bands of the Shoshonean stock who ranged chiefly west and south of Great Salt Lake; without horses or much clothing, they lived in a furtive way upon roots and insects. The name is sometimes equivalent to Paiute, who have proved to be of a more vigorous character than was formerly supposed. The French appellation was Digne de pitié (worthy of pity); see De Smet's Letters in our volume xxvii, p. 167, note 38. – Ed.

196

Farnham must have been in the neighborhood of the great Shoshone Falls of Lewis River. His description would better apply to Twin Falls, two and a half miles higher up which are about two hundred feet in height; but they are caused by the flow of the river, not by springs. – Ed.

197

This ford is about thirty-five miles below the falls, not far from Glenn's Ferry. It consists of two islands, with the water between sufficiently shallow to be fordable. – Ed.

198

The entire region is volcanic, and hot springs are frequent. Hot Spring Creek is an affluent of the Lewis, some distance below the Malade. See Frémont's analysis of these springs in Senate Docs., 28 Cong., 2 sess., 174, p. 171. – Ed.

199

This must be a misprint for twenty miles "east of the Saptin" or Lewis. The guide evidently bore off from the main river in order to strike the Boise, which afforded wood for fuel and pasture for horses as well as furnished a short cut to the fort at its mouth. – Ed.

200

For the Boise River, see Townsend's Narrative in our volume xxi, p. 249, note 63. The Snake Indians are noted in volume v, p. 227, note 123. – Ed.

201

For the Bannock Indians see our volume xxi, p. 192, note 41. The Boise was frequently called Reed's River, because of the murder thereupon (1814) of a trapping party under the leadership of a bourgeois of that name. See Ross's Oregon Settlers in our volume vii, pp. 265-270. – Ed.

202

Lewis and Clark passed the main ridge of the Rockies at the source of the west fork of Jefferson's River, coming out upon the Lemhi. By the "Great Gap," Farnham undoubtedly intends South Pass. The Bannock crossed at the headsprings of Henry's Fork of the Snake (see De Smet's Letters, our volume xxvii, p. 252), coming down into Madison Valley, whence they made their way by Bozeman's Pass to the Yellowstone, or country of the Crows; or possibly to the country of the Blackfeet, on Maria's River, by continuing down the Missouri. – Ed.

203

Fort Boise was built in the spring of 1834 (not 1832) by Thomas McKay, stepson of Dr McLoughlin, the Hudson's Bay factor at Fort Vancouver. It was at first but a miserable pen of crooked saplings, a few miles up Boise River; but later was, as Farnham mentions, removed below the mouth of the river, and constructed of adobe. It was an important station on the Oregon Trail – the resting place after the difficult travel of the Snake River plains, and before attempting the rough route to the Columbia. With the decline of the fur-trade, the importance of Fort Boise was much diminished, and when it was destroyed (1853) by a remarkable rise of Snake River, it was but partially repaired. A neighboring Indian massacre (1854) caused the post to be entirely abandoned the succeeding year. In 1863 the government built a military post known as Fort Boise, or Boise Barracks, fifty miles above the old Hudson's Bay post, at the site of the modern city of Boise. – Ed.

204

Payette commanded this post for a number of years. Whitman found him there in 1836, and he was still in charge as late as 1843. – Ed.

205

The history of this wagon is interesting. It was brought out by Dr. Whitman in 1836, and the following passages in Mrs. Whitman's letters (Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1891, pp. 40-68) relate thereto: "July 25. Husband had a tedious time with the wagon to-day. It got stuck in the creek this morning when crossing and he was obliged to wade considerably in getting it out. After that, in going between the mountains, on the side of one, so steep that it was difficult for horses to pass, the wagon was upset twice… 28th. One of the axle-trees of the wagon broke to-day; was a little rejoiced, for we were in hopes they would leave it, and have no more trouble with it. Our rejoicing was in vain for they are making a cart of the back wheels, this afternoon, and lashing the fore wheels to it – intending to take it through in some shape or other". On Snake River the box was abandoned, and finally what remained of the vehicle was left at Fort Boise. When Joseph L. Meek came through in 1840, he secured the remains of this historic wagon and transported his family therein to Dr. Whitman's station at Waiilatpu. – Ed.

206

These springs are just below the entrance of Malheur River, for which see our volume xxi, p. 264, note 64. Frémont tested them, and found the temperature 193° Fahrenheit; he mentions the incrustation of salt. – Ed.

207

Probably Burnt (or Brulé) River, for which see our volume xxi, p. 267, note 67. – Ed.

208

L'Arbre Seul was a well-known landmark in Powder River valley, just at the ford of the river. When Frémont passed in 1843 he found that some inconsiderate emigrant had felled the big tree with his axe. The place was thereafter known as Lone Pine Stump. For Powder River see our volume xxi, p. 268, note 68. – Ed.

209

Grande Ronde valley, for which see our volume xxi, p. 271, note 69. – Ed.

210

The passage of the Blue Mountains was one of the difficult portions of the Oregon Trail. Compare our volume xxi, pp. 272-276; also Mrs. Whitman's "Journal," in Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1891, pp. 55-57. – Ed.

211

For the Walla Walla River see our volume vi, p. 338, note 142. – Ed.

212

For the Cayuse (Skyuse) Indians see Ross's Oregon Settlers in our volume vii, p. 137, note 37. – Ed.

213

For a brief description of Fort Walla Walla see our volume xxi, p. 278, note 73. – Ed.

214

The Whitman mission station was on the north bank of the Walla Walla, six miles west of the present city of that name. The place was called by its Indian name Waiilatpu. See Mrs. Whitman's description of the site in Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1891, pp. 88-90; she gives a plan of the new house on pp. 136, 137. For a brief sketch of Dr. Marcus Whitman, see our volume xxi p. 352, note 125. – Ed.

215

The mission of the American Board at the Sandwich Islands decided (1839) to present to the Oregon mission their printing press and its appurtenances, they having recently received a new outfit from the United States. This press, which had then seen twenty years' service in Hawaii, was placed on board of the annual vessel to the Columbia, and in process of time reached Dr. Whitman's station; thence it was transferred to Lapwai, where it continued in use, printing native texts, etc., during the existence of the mission. The press was advertised for sale in 1860, but there being no customer, Mrs. Spaulding presented it to the state as an historical relic. It has found a home in the state house at Salem. See Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1889, p. 94. With the press came Edwin O. Hall, an American printer, who had been employed some time in the Sandwich Islands, and desired to leave because of the impaired condition of his wife's health. He remained at the Oregon mission until the next year, when he returned to the Islands, subsequently returning to the Eastern states where he died about 1887. (See Mrs. Whitman's "Journal," in Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1891, p. 137.)

For Asahel Munger see ante, p. 275, note 161. – Ed.

216

For Narcissa Prentice Whitman see our volume xxi, p. 355, note 128. – Ed.

217

See Mrs. Whitman's own account of the loss of this daughter, Alice Clarissa, in Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1891, pp. 120-126. – Ed.

218

Mrs. Whitman writes in 1838: "The Indians have furnished us a little venison – barely enough for our own eating – but to supply our men and visitors we have killed and eaten ten wild horses bought of the Indians. This will make you pity us, but you had better save your pity for more worthy subjects. I do not prefer it to other meat, but can eat it very well when we have nothing else." (See "Journal," as in preceding note, p. 96.) – Ed.

219

For the location of the Spokan mission see De Smet's Letters in our volume xxvii, p. 367, note 187.

The Clearwater station was called Lapwai, being situated at the mouth of a creek of that name in Nez Percé County, western Idaho. It was founded in 1836 by Henry H. Spaulding, for whom see our volume xxi, p. 352, note 125. Abandoned after the Whitman massacre (1847), a military post succeeded, being maintained until 1886. A portion of Spaulding's house was recently standing. – Ed.

220

In Ross's time, Quahat was the great Cayuse war-chief. He also speaks of the importance of the Cayuse, and their ruling propensities – see Chittenden, Fur-Trade, i, p. 181.

For the Red River settlement, see Franchère's Narrative in our volume vi, pp. 379, 381, notes 195, 199. – Ed.

221

For Francis Ermatinger see De Smet's Letters, in our volume xxvii, p. 235, note 108. – Ed.

222

Asa B. Smith came out in 1838 with Elkanah Walker and Cushing Eells to re-inforce the mission to the Nez Percés. Smith had considerable linguistic ability, and with the aid of the noted Indian chief Lawyer compiled a grammar and vocabulary of the Nez Percé language. Becoming discouraged, however, he left the mission at Kamai in 1841, and resigning the following year retired to the Sandwich Islands. – Ed.

223

For a brief sketch of Pambrun see our volume xxi, p. 280, note 74. In her letters Mrs. Whitman speaks repeatedly of kindness received from this Hudson's Bay Company factor, whose death she deplores. See Oregon Pioneer Association Transactions, 1891, pp. 88, 103, 139, 140. – Ed.

224

The general trend of the river is west; just above John Day's River, in Gilliam County, there is a bend to the north-west, which is the point Farnham had reached. – Ed.

225

Farnham evidently thought that he saw Mount St. Helens (see our volume vi, p. 246, note 50), which he here calls Mount Washington, although later giving it the title of Mount Adams (see our volume xxix, note 32 – Farnham). Lewis and Clark made a similar mistake – see Original Journals, iii, p. 135. What our traveller saw was the present Mount Adams, for which see note 225, below. – Ed.

226

All early travellers speak of the attempts of the Indians, in their designation of the neighborhood, to express the sound of the falling waters. Lewis and Clark speak of it as "tumm;" according to Ross (our volume vii, p. 133), it was "Lowhum." The Shutes (Des Chutes) is another name for the Great Falls of the Columbia. – Ed.

227

The ordinary meaning of the word "dalles" is paving stones; but by the Canadian French it was also used to indicate a channel which carried off the waters dammed above – hence any form of confined, swiftly-flowing waters. Lewis and Clark spoke of these chasms through which the Columbia rushes as the Long and Short Narrows; by Farnham's time the term "Dalles" had become the ordinary appellation. – Ed.

228

For the Chinook see Franchère's Narrative in our volume vi, p. 240, note 40. – Ed.

229

Mount Adams (9570 feet) is one of the volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range in Klickitat County, Washington, about thirty miles east of Mount St. Helens. Both these volcanoes were in a state of eruption in 1842-43. – Ed.

230

For Daniel Lee see Townsend's Narrative in our volume xxi, p. 138, note 13. H. K. W. Perkins came out to re-inforce the Methodist mission in September, 1837, and not long afterwards married Elvira Johnson, who had preceded him a few months. They joined with Daniel Lee in establing the Dalles mission in 1838, where they labored with varying success until about 1845, then returning to the "states." Mrs. Whitman spent the winter of 1842-43 at this mission, during her husband's absence. The mission house was located on the south bank of the river, just below the Long Narrows, near an Indian village called Kaclasco; the station was named Wascopum. See p. 388, note 208, in De Smet's Letters, our volume xxvii. – Ed.

231

Farnham has not exaggerated the bad reputation of the Indians at the Dalles. Lewis and Clark felt that they owed their lives at this point to the strength of their party, and came nearer to having a skirmish with the natives of that locality than elsewhere on the Columbia waters. See also Ross's Oregon Settlers in our volume vii, pp. 126-131, and Franchère's Narrative, in our volume vi, pp. 274-276. – Ed.

232

Daniel G. Brinton, Myths of the New World (Philadelphia, 1896), p. 298, considers that belief in transmigration is but little known among North American Indians. What traces may be found are due to totemic influence, and probably relate to reversion to the primitive spirit represented by the clan animal, rather than to transmigration into living animals. This statement of Farnham's would appear to have been suggested by totem poles near the graves. – Ed.

233

The well-known Sepulchre Island, known in the native tongue as "Memaloose" (the abode of the dead). Many of the islands in the Columbia were used for burial; this in particular; about three miles below the mouth of Klickitat River, was noted by Lewis and Clark, who found erected thereupon thirteen large box-tombs – see Original Journals, iii, p. 170; iv, p. 283. In 1884 this island became the place of sepulchre for an Oregon pioneer, Vic Trevitt, whose monument has become a prominent landmark. – Ed.

234

The Indians held in great reverence the tombs and the bones therein contained, and were quick to take vengeance for any spoliation. The flattened skulls always were an object of curiosity to whites, and many were surreptitiously carried away by the latter. See Townsend's experience in our volume xxi, pp. 338, 339. – Ed.

235

Either one of the Phocidæ, or the Zalophus californianus, well known on the Pacific coast; both of these are hair seals. – Ed.

236

For this region, now known as South Park, see ante, p. 199, note 123. – Ed.

237

The Cascades, with their portage path, were to all early travellers the best-known features of the lower Columbia. See Lewis and Clark, Original Journals, iii, pp. 179-185; Ross's Oregon Settlers in our volume vii, pp. 121-125; and Townsend's Narrative in our volume xxi, pp. 291-293. – Ed.

238

For the varieties of pine and other terebinthine (turpentine producing) trees of the North-west Coast, see Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, iv, pp. 41-57, 84, 85, with identifications by Charles V. Piper, a naturalist familiar with the region. – Ed.

239

This project of a canal was undertaken by the United States government in 1878, when it was found that the difficulties were so great that the work had no counterpart. However, after numerous modifications, a canal was built on the south (Oregon) side of the river, with a great steel lock at the upper Cascades. The work was opened for navigation in November, 1896, but was not wholly completed until 1900. Over four million dollars has been spent on this important improvement. See the chief engineer's Report in House Docs., 56 Cong., 1 sess., viii, pp. 584-586. – Ed.

240

For Dr. John McLoughlin, see our volume xxi, p. 296, note 81. – Ed.

241

Probably the one now known as Trout Lake. Lewis and Clark speak of the "ponds" encountered in passing over the portage path. – Ed.

242

The description of this place tallies well with that given by Lewis and Clark; see Original Journals, iii, pp. 178, 179. – Ed.

243

Cyrus Shepard, who came out (1834) with the first missionary party (see our volume xxi, p. 138, note 13), was a valuable member of the Methodist mission, where he had chief charge of the Indian manual training school. In 1837 his fiancée, Susan Downing, came from the states, and they were married in July of that year. His death occurred at the mission in 1840.

Mrs. Elijah White came to Oregon with her husband, a missionary physician, in May, 1837. – Ed.

244

Of the many beautiful falls on this part of the river the Horsetail, Multnomah, Bridal Veil, and Latourell are notable; probably the Bridal Veil is the most beautiful, but the Multnomah may be the cascade here noted. – Ed.

245

For a brief sketch of Fort Vancouver see our volume xxi, p. 297, note 82. Farnham gives a detailed description in our volume xxix. – Ed.

246

Sir James Douglas was born (1803) in British Guiana. Taken to Scotland when a child, he left in order to enter the Canadian fur-trade, and met Dr. John McLoughlin at Fort William, on Lake Superior. McLoughlin persuaded the youth to accompany him to the Pacific, where (1824) he was in service at Fort St. James under Factor Connelly, whose daughter Douglas married. For some years he was in charge of Fort St. James, being summoned (1828) to Vancouver, where he became second in command. Promoted to be chief trader (1830) and chief factor two years later, he was much employed in visits of inspection and in building new posts. In 1841-42 he went on a diplomatic and trading embassy to California. In 1843 Fort Victoria was built under his direction. Upon Dr. McLoughlin's resignation (1845), Douglas became his successor as head of the Hudson's Bay Company's interests on the Pacific, removing from Fort Vancouver to Victoria in 1849. There he continued to rule until his resignation from the Company (1859), when the British government appointed him governor of the newly-erected province of British Columbia, an office which he held until 1864, being in the preceding year knighted for his services. After release from official duties, Sir James visited Europe, returning to his home in Victoria, where he died August 2, 1877. – Ed.