Ocean to Ocean on Horseback

While the guards dozed and slept, as on the previous night, our eyes steadily sought the arms and ponies. We were quite certain that any attempt to escape, if detected and defeated, would result in immediate torture and death; but were, nevertheless, firmly determined to make the effort, let the consequences be what they might, for by this time we were thoroughly convinced that, if taken to their encampment in the Black Hills, the Indians would be most likely to detain us as hostages for a long period, and in the end possibly, should the inclination seize them, subject us to brutalities that only savages can devise. With such reflections and but indifferent opportunity to put our plans for escape to the test, we passed our second night in captivity.

At dawn of the third day, November second, after the usual breakfast of antelope, Lone Wolf called his band together and, mounting, continued his march northward, halting occasionally for rest and refreshment. About eight in the evening all dismounted and bivouacked for the night. The weather was now extremely cold in this high altitude, and was keenly felt by the Arrapahoes and their white captives.

Shivering with cold and without blankets, Gordon and I, still bound together at the wrists, lay down to sleep with our captors around a smouldering fire. The Indians sought sleep – their prisoners thought only of possibilities for escape.

With the experience I had gained in Southern prisons during the Civil War and the herder's thorough knowledge of the Plains, I felt confident that we could make our escape if we were constantly on the alert for the opportune moment. During the early hours of the night we had each fixed our eyes upon a pony. These animals were grazing near the camp-fire, with their saddles on, ready for immediate use if required. Under the pretence of being asleep we began snoring loudly, and the guards, feeling at ease concerning their prisoners, slept at intervals, although restless until midnight, when we found them sleeping soundly.

I now worked at the cord which bound me to my white companion and ascertained that I could untie it. While making the attempt one of the Indians moved in his sleep and I ceased my efforts for the moment, and all was quiet again. The opportunity arrived at length, the knot was loosened, and the noose slipped over our hands, which gave us liberty. We quickly took possession of two revolvers, but the guards, being awakened by our movements, were about getting on their feet, when we dealt them stunning blows with the butt of the revolvers, forced them to the ground, and gained needed time for our escape. Each rushed for a pony, leaped into the saddle, and, before Lone Wolf and his band had shaken off their slumber, we were urging our mustangs to their utmost speed southward.

But a moment elapsed before all of the Indians were mounted and in pursuit of their escaping captives; but this had the effect only of spurring us to still greater speed. Finding several of our pursuers in short range I turned in my saddle and sent a bullet among them; another and another followed. One Indian fell from his horse, but the darkness prevented our seeing if the other shots had told. The Arrapahoes returned the fire, but luckily without any worse result than increasing the pace of our flying ponies.

Away we tore over hill-top and through canyon until but three or four Indians could be seen in pursuit, when Gordon, saying it would be much better for both to take separate routes, at once dashed off through a ravine to the right. One Indian considerably in advance of his companions was at this time closing upon me, but I sent a bullet into his horse, which put a temporary stop to pursuit and would have enabled me to distance my pursuers in the saddle had not my own horse fallen an instant later through a well-directed shot from the Indian I had just dismounted.

I now dropped into a gulch, remaining hidden until morning. With the coming light I found the coast clear, and, emerging from my place of concealment, set out in a southwesterly direction, which brought me to a cattle ranche late in the afternoon, grateful, indeed, for liberty regained and for the freedom which enabled me to continue my journey toward the shores of the Pacific. After listening to my story the generous ranchmen whom I here met supplied me with food and a fresh mustang. Again facing westward I pursued my course over the Rockies, striking the Old Government Trail near Fort Steele at the end of three days.

CHAPTER XXVII.

AMONG THE MORMONS

In my ride across the Territory of Utah amid its snow-capped mountains, hot sulphur springs and its great Salt Lake, I met no hostile Indians, but on the contrary many hospitable Mormons; in fact, my reception by both Mormon and Gentile was invariably kind and generous. I saw something of the social life of Utah as well as the wonderful country through which I passed, and was favorably impressed with the material development of the latter, as witnessed in its farms and mechanical industries. The men I conversed with were fairly intelligent – some exceptionally so; and hesitated not to explain and justify their peculiar faith and domestic life. They are certainly neither monsters nor murderers, but men possessing good manners and many of them refined tastes. In short, I found much good human nature among this people as well as social culture. Business intelligence and activity is a marked feature in their intercourse with strangers.

In Utah agriculture is the chief occupation of the people. The long dry summers and the clayey character of the soil insure defeat to the farmer, unless he helps his crops by artificial means. Irrigation is therefore universal, and the result – the finest crops to be found anywhere in the West.

The Territory of Utah covers the region drained by the Great Salt Lake and many miles more, both in length and breadth, but the Mormon settlements extend one hundred miles further into Idaho on the north and two hundred miles into Arizona on the south. These settlements are mostly small, but there are some places of considerable importance, as, for instance, Provo at the south and Ogden at the north.

On July 14, 1847, Brigham Young, a Mormon leader, and his followers entered the valley of the Great Salt Lake. The lake itself is one of the most remarkable bodies of water on the globe. It is seventy miles long and forty-five miles broad, and stands 4,250 feet above the sea-level. It bears a strong resemblance to the Dead Sea of Palestine, but, unlike that sea, it abounds in animal life. When Young entered the valley Utah belonged to Mexico, and the leader believed he could found whatever character of institution should suit him and his people best. It has been alleged that Brigham Young had "chains on men's souls." There is no doubt that superstition and the machinery of the Mormon Church were in some degree the secret of his irresistible power over his followers; but back of the superstition and the marvellous church organization stood the brain of a great and masterful man. His power, he knew, must rest upon something material and tangible, and this something he reasonably discerned to be the prosperity of the people themselves. He proved himself to be an organizer of prosperity, and this was the real source of his strength.

Mormonism is the religion of 250,000 of the world's inhabitants. The Territory of Utah has a population of 160,000, and of these, probably, 110,000 are Mormons. Their doctrines may be explained in a few words:

They believe that both matter and spirit are eternal, and both are possessed of intelligence and power to design.

The spiritual realm contains many gods, all of whom are traced back to one Supreme Deity.

This Supreme Deity and all the gods resemble men and differ only in the fact that they are immortal.

In form they are the same as men, having every organ and limb that belongs to humanity. They have many wives, and are as numerous as the sands upon the sea-shore.

Among the gods, Jesus Christ holds the first place, and is the express image of the Supreme Father.

A general assembly of the gods, presided over by the Supreme Deity, is the creating power.

When this world was created, Adam and Eve were taken from the family of gods and placed in it. In the fall they lost all knowledge of their heavenly origin, became possessed of mortal bodies, and only regained what they had lost by the quickening of the Holy Spirit and continuous progress in knowledge and purity.

Among other creations of the gods are innumerable spirits which can only attain to the rank of gods by the rugged road of discipline and trial trod by our first parents. These spirits are constantly hovering over our earth waiting for fleshy tenements in which to begin the steep ascent.

As soon as a child is born, one of these spirits takes possession of it and is then fairly launched forth upon its heavenly voyage.

Those who do not listen to the teachings of the church here will, at death, enter upon a third estate or probationary sphere, when they will have another opportunity, when, if they improve it aright, they will, with all the faithful, enter upon the fourth estate, which is the estate of the gods.

The Holy Spirit is a material substance filling all space, and can perform all the works of the Supreme Deity. It is omnipresent; in animals it is instinct, in man reason and inspiration, enabling him to prophesy, speak with tongues, and perform miracles of healing and many other wonderful things. The Holy Spirit can be imparted by the laying on of hands by a priesthood properly constituted and duly authorized.

The two prominent features of Mormonism are polygamy and lust for power. Salvation is not so much a matter of character as of the number of family.

Such is the teaching of Brigham Young in his sermons, and of George Q. Cannon, Heber Kimball, and of all the leading Mormons.

Social life among this people may be judged of from the Mormon estimate of woman. She exists only as a necessity in man's exaltation and glory. Her only hope of a future life depends upon her being united in "celestial marriage" to some man. Thus joined, she will have a share in her husband's glory. In marrying her, her husband confers upon her the greatest possible honor, and for this she must be his obedient slave. In order that she may be contented with her lot as a polygamous wife, she is taught from childhood to look upon conjugal love as a weak and foolish sentiment, and upon marriage as the only way to secure a future life.

The Mormons have been largely recruited in numbers by immigrants who have been brought into Utah through the efforts of missionaries sent by the church to other parts of America and to Europe. About six thousand missionaries are thus employed. They leave their homes in Utah and go to any part of the world to which they may be assigned by the authorities of the church, paying their own expenses, or collecting the money for their sustenance from their converts. These missionaries usually travel in pairs, and preach, for the most part, in ignorant communities. It is estimated that about 100,000 immigrants have gone to Utah under their leadership. The organization of the missionary force is very complete and effective. The immigrants, though for the most part ignorant, are always able-bodied, and are usually industrious, frugal, and obedient to discipline. The average yearly immigration is about 2,000 persons.

Mormonism has lately spread into the State of Nevada, and into Montana, Idaho, Wyoming and Arizona.

The sect was founded by Joseph Smith at Manchester, New York, in 1830. Smith was born December 23, 1805, at Sharon, Vermont. When only fifteen years old he began to have alleged visions, in one of which, he asserts, the angel Moroni appeared to him three times and told him that the Bible of the Western Continent – a supplement to the New Testament – was buried in a certain spot near Manchester. Four years after this event he visited the spot indicated by the angel, and asserts that he had delivered into his charge by another angel a stone box, in which was a volume, six inches thick, made of thin gold plates, eight inches long by seven broad, and fastened together by three gold rings. The plates were said to be covered with small writing in the Egyptian character, and were accompanied by a pair of supernatural spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow and called "Urim and Thummim." By aid of these the mystic characters could be read. Joseph Smith, being himself unable to read or write fluently, employed an amanuensis to whom he dictated a translation, which was afterward, in 1830, printed and published under the title of the "Book of Mormon." The book professes to give the history of America from its first settlement by a colony of refugees from the crowd dispersed by the confusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel. These settlers having in the course of time destroyed one another, nothing of importance occurred until 600 B. C., when Lehi, his wife and four sons, with ten friends, all from Jerusalem, landed on the coast of Chili, and from that period, according to the Mormon theory, America became gradually peopled.

Ogden

Having heard much of the city of Ogden in Northern Utah – of its peculiar origin and rapid progress – I resolved to rest there for a day or two before proceeding to Corinne and other points in my route toward the Sierras.

The pretty city of Ogden has had one of the wildest and most thrilling of birthplaces.

To-day it reminds the stranger of one of the peaceful little cities of old Massachusetts, nestled among the Berkshire Hills, wide of street, stately of architecture, redolent of comfort and refinement.

But in reality Ogden is the child of Utah. Mines of precious metals are its neighbors. It has been the scene of daring explorations, of Indian raids, and of many murders and massacres. Its original inhabitants were fanatics, so enthused with, so overwhelmed by their tenets, as to believe themselves of all the world the favorites of the Almighty, the only original handful of His saints, the small remnant of the human family to which constant revelations from Heaven were vouchsafed.

Upheld by this fanaticism, drawn with it as by a magnet from all over the United States, from Canada, from the countries of Europe, proselytes came to join the Mormons. They journeyed by mule trains over the Plains, or they walked perhaps, pushing their all in hand-carts before them. They encountered persecution, suffering, and even death, undaunted. Some of them, on their perilous journey to the Promised Land, subsisted on roots. Some boiled the skins of their buffalo robes and ate them. Some pushed their little carts on the last day of their lives and then laid down to freeze before the land of their desire was in sight. Graves or skeletons frequently marked their route of march, but still they came, and having come they prospered.

Their farms throve; their boundaries increased; their settlements became many.

With foolhardiness, but also with desperation, with dauntless effrontery, with infinite pluck, they defied the United States and her army, using the tiny handful of Mormon soldiery in a way that makes one's mind run back to the story of Thermopylæ.

Such was the blood that settled Ogden.

It was such inhabitants that Brigham Young, in 1850, advised to "put up good dwellings, open good schools, erect a meeting-house, cultivate gardens, and pay especial care to fruit raising," so that Ogden might become a permanent settlement and the headquarters for the Mormons in the northern portion of the Territory.

So well was his advice carried out that in 1851 the city was "made a stake of Zion," divided into wards, and incorporated by act of legislature.

From the very first, everything connected with the city seemed to have a spice and dash about it.

Away back in 1540, Father Juan de Padilla and his patron, Pedro de Tobar, went on an exploring expedition. On his return the priest spoke of a large and interesting river he had found in that "Great Unknown," the Northwest.

The account so fired the hearts of his brother Spaniards that Captain Garcia Lopaz de Cardenas was sent to explore further into that wonderland. He returned telling of immense gulches, of rocky battlements, and of mountains surrounding a great body of water. Many believe that in that far distant time, about the time that Elizabeth ascended the throne of England, before Raleigh had done himself the honor of his discoveries and settlements in Virginia, Signor Cardenas was simply taking a little vacation trip through Utah.

But however fabulous that may be, we know of a surety that on July 29, 1776, two Franciscan friars set out from Santa Fé to find a direct route to the Pacific Ocean. In their wanderings they strayed far to the north, where they came across many representatives of the Utes, who proved to be a loving, faithful, hospitable people. From their lips the Spaniards heard the first description ever listened to by white men of the region of country containing the present site of Ogden. "The lake," the Utes said, "occupies many leagues. Its waters are injurious and extremely salt. He that wets any part of his body in this water immediately feels an itching in the wet parts. In the circuit of this lake live a numerous and quiet nation called Puaguampe. They feed on herbs, and drink from various fountains or springs of good water which are about the lake, and they have their little houses of grass and earth, which latter forms the roof."

So the Great Salt Lake makes its entrance into comparatively modern American history.

In 1825, Peter Skeen Ogden, accompanied by his party of Hudson Bay Company trappers, pursued his brilliant adventures, and left behind a record which induced the naming of the city after him.

In 1841, the country around the spot where the city now lies was held, on a Spanish grant, by Miles M. Goodyear, who built a fort and a few log-houses near the confluence of the Weber and Ogden rivers.

On June 6, 1848, a man named James Brown came from California with his pockets stuffed with gold dust; nearly five thousand dollars' worth of the precious thing had he. With part of it he bought this tract of land from Goodyear. It proved to be a most fertile spot. Brethren came to it from Salt Lake City. Gentiles came from everywhere. The settlement grew and prospered.

In 1849, people began to talk of locating a city right there at the junction of the two rivers.

In 1850, Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, and others, laid out the settlement and called it Ogden, after Peter Skeen Ogden, the explorer, long since dead, but whose dashing, daring, brilliant adventures were still charming to the men of that wild land. Every time the city's name is mentioned it is another proof that although,

"The man might die, his memory lives."

Before a year was over a school house was built in the city.

Then came that un-American sight, a wall of protection built around a city. It cost $40,000, which amount was raised by taxation.

About this time several suburban settlements were formed, but bears, wolves, and Indians soon drove the venturesome suburbanites within city limits.

Just then a party of immigrants encamping on the Malade River shot two Indian women. By way of reprisal the savages killed a pioneer named Campbell who was building a saw-mill near Ogden, and threatened to massacre the entire population of the town. Matters began to look serious, and the commander of the Nauvoo Legion gave the Indians chase, and so overwhelmed them that they at once retreated, taking with them no captives more important than many horses and cattle belonging to the white settlers.

October 23, 1851, the first municipal election was held in Ogden.

1852 found one hundred families living within city boundaries.

In 1854, a memorial was addressed to Congress, by the territorial legislature, urging the construction of an overland railroad. But it was May, 1868, before a contract was made between Brigham Young and the superintendent of construction of the Union Pacific Railroad for grading between Echo Canyon and the terminus of the line. At Weber Canyon there was blasting, tunnelling, and heavy stone work for bridges to be done. This work earned 1,000,000 or perhaps 1,250,000 dollars' worth of wages. The labor was splendidly done, but the remuneration came slowly. Finally, however, the Union Pacific Railroad turned over 600,000 dollars' worth of rolling stock, and other property to the Mormons. On May 17, 1869, ground was broken for a railroad between Salt Lake City and Ogden. So the city grew and flourished.

Ogden has an elevation of 4,340 feet. The ground plan of the city is spacious, the drainage good, the climate exceedingly healthy.

About the time I rode through, the population numbered 6,000 souls. The city contained one of the finest schools in Utah, a hotel which ranked among the best in the Union, a daily paper, a theatre, three banks, numerous Gentile churches, a 16,000 dollar bridge across the Weber, a reservoir, and a Court House, which was such an architectural beauty that all Utah may well be proud of it.

So Ogden came through narrow ways to broad ways! So she

"Climbed the ladder, round by round!"

She has won the respect and admiration of all who have watched her. May her industry never fail, her enthusiasm never lessen, her pluck remain indomitable, and may good fortune perch forever on her banners!

CHAPTER XXVIII

OVER THE SIERRAS

Sierra is the Spanish word for 'saw' and also for 'mountain,' referring to the notched outline of the mountains as seen against the sky.

My main object now was to push on to Sacramento. At Kelton, in Utah, where I remained only a few hours, I was still seven hundred and ninety miles from my destination. Stock is extensively grazed here and cattle shipped to the Pacific coast in very large numbers. Leaving Kelton, I rode thirty-three miles to Terrace, a small settlement in the midst of a desert; thence to Wells in the adjoining State of Nevada.

Nevada belongs to the "Great Basin," a table-land elevated 4,500 feet above the sea. It is traversed, with great uniformity, by parallel mountain ranges, rising from 1,000 to 8,000 feet high, running north and south. Long, narrow valleys, or canyons, lie between them. The Sierra Nevada, in some places 13,000 feet in height, extends along the western boundary of the State. The only navigable river is the Colorado, but there are several other streams rising in the mountains and emptying into lakes which have no visible outlet. Lake Tahoe is twenty-one miles long, ten miles wide and fifteen hundred feet deep. Although it is elevated 6,000 feet above the sea level, the water of this lake never freezes and has a mean temperature of 57° for the year. Nevada has its hot springs, some of which have a temperature of two hundred degrees.

A heavy growth of timber, particularly of pine, fir, and spruce, covers the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, many of the trees attaining enormous size. There are numerous alkaline flats, and extensive sand plains, where nothing grows. The first discovery of silver ore was made on the Comstock lode in 1859, from which more than $100,000,000 have been taken. This has been the most valuable silver-bearing lode ever discovered in the world, exceeding in wealth the mines of Peru and Mexico. It is now exhausted and yields only low-grade ores.

Wells, my first resting-point in the Sierras, stands at an elevation of over 5,600 feet, and had a population of less than 300. Farming and stock raising are its principal industries. Formerly it was a watering and resting-place for old emigrant travel, where pure water was obtained – a luxury after crossing the Great Desert; and an abundance of grass for the weary animals. Some of the wells here are 1,700 feet deep.

Stopped next for the night at Halleck, a small village – over 5,000 feet elevation – thirteen miles from Camp Halleck, where United States troops are occasionally stationed. Leaving Halleck after a night's rest and a hearty breakfast of ham and eggs, I rode twenty-four miles to Elko, six hundred and nineteen miles from San Francisco. This important town stands at an elevation of 5,063 feet above sea-level and is on the Humboldt River. The State University is situated here. Silver smelting works and manufactures of farming implements were the principal industries. One daily and two weekly papers were well supported. There were also three large freight depots for the accommodation of the railway business. I noticed several Indians about the town. The hot mineral springs of Elko are considered of great value for bathing. Population at the time of my visit, about 1,700, but the town is destined to develop into an important city. The money paid for freights consigned to this place, averaged $1,000,000 a year.