Ocean to Ocean on Horseback

Paul was still in the happiest of spirits and I rode away from Hobart at a gallop, stirring the dust of this sleepy little village as it had possibly not been stirred for many moons. The cheerful fact was made clear to me before leaving that I was as far from Joliet at Hobart as I had supposed myself to be at Michigan City.

In the course of the day, in which twenty-eight miles were again covered, Centralia, Sherryville and Dyer were passed, these towns being on Grand Prairie, across which I rode from morning till night. At four o'clock I reached the boundary between Indiana and Illinois, realizing that at this point six States had added their rich scenes and splendid enterprises to my memory.

As I was moving along on the prairie just before dark my ears caught the sound of a peculiar barking and soon a pack of what I supposed to be dogs were following me. I noticed that Paul's manner changed and he appeared disturbed, but attributed this to the barking and the persistent keeping at his heels of the little animals. To a man whom I met later, I explained that I had been followed for some hours by a pack of dogs, when he promptly informed me that they were doubtless prairie wolves. Of course to an Easterner this news gave an added interest to Grand Prairie.

One hundred and Thirtieth Day

Robertson House,Joliet, Illinois.September Eighteenth.

Had Paul brought out at eight o'clock. As soon as he was saddled at Richton the man who attended to him threw the rein over the neck of the horse, and a moment later he made his appearance unaccompanied in front of the Rohmer House. This being an undoubted sign of his anxiety to be off, I mounted at once and we were soon lessening the distance to Joliet, our evening destination, twenty-one miles away.

Was all day again on Grand Prairie, which may give some idea of this the greatest and truly the grandest prairie yet passed on my route. Its proximity to Chicago is doubtless one of the chief causes of the high winds for which the "Windy City" is noted; and if Chicago could, she would gladly change her inconvenient environment.

At Lenox I halted for dinner, reaching Joliet at four P. M. In riding through Jefferson street, I was met by Babcock who seemed much surprised at my early arrival. Notwithstanding the fact that "Rip Van Winkle" was being played at the opera house, Robert McWade, a young actor of some prominence, taking the leading rôle, I found a fair audience awaiting me at Werner Hall in the evening, which proved that interest was still felt in the Custer Monument movement.

One hundred and Thirty-first Day

Hopkins House,Morris, Illinois,September Nineteenth.

On calling for my bill at the Robertson House, Joliet, in the morning, Mr. Conklin the proprietor, declined to accept any pay for my accommodations, and when I insisted, said he wished the pleasure of making me his guest during my stay. I did not get a very early start, as a family by the name of Horner, upon hearing of my arrival, called at the hotel and at their solicitation I made them a short visit. They knew of my journey and interest in the Custer Association, and being patriotic made this their reason for wishing to meet me. Their friendliness was but another proof of the hospitality of the people of Joliet, among whom I had come the day before as a comparative stranger, but whom I left with the kindliest of feeling.

Before leaving, Mr. Conklin suggested that I ride along the tow-path of the Michigan Canal from Joliet to Chanahon, and I followed his advice, having dinner at the latter place. It happened that the innkeeper was well supplied with sweet cider and I helped him to dispose of it by drinking the contents of six well-filled glasses. Beyond Chanahon, on the Illinois River, I borrowed a hook and line of a farmer who was fishing and caught twenty-three perch in half an hour.

At four o'clock I reached the summit of a hill on the border of a prairie from which I could look off for fifteen or twenty miles over a fertile country through which two silver streams wound to unite just below – the Kankakee here paying tribute to the Illinois. The atmosphere was perfect – clear and pure; the trees were tinged red and yellow with the first frosts, and to all this was added the glory of the sunset which I lingered to admire before turning away from so charming a scene.

Such a view leaves a deep impress on the memory, and stirs recollections of more youthful days. Emotions like these have a purifying effect upon all men.

One hundred and Thirty-second Day

Clifton House,Ottawa, Illinois,September Twentieth.

I rode out of Morris in the morning just as the public school bells were ringing nine o'clock. My journey now lay along the north bank of the Illinois River, and took me through some of the finest cornfields I had ever seen. Acres and acres, miles and miles stretched in all directions as far as the eye could reach whenever the elevation of the road was high enough above this waving sea of grain to permit of my looking about. Otherwise I passed through it completely shut in, except as I could look ahead and behind and see the avenue of giant stalks. My horse, sixteen hands high, did not elevate me sufficiently to enable me, sitting in the saddle, to look over the corn tops, and they still towered above my head like so many small trees.

Those who are privileged to see this agricultural wonder must, however, associate it with that other source of pride among Illinois farmers – the "hogs" – for most of this splendid harvest is fed to these animals and they, well-fattened thereby, are driven to market. Thus the enterprising farmer is saved the expense of hauling his corn to Chicago or other points, as the pork, into which it has been transformed, is able to carry itself.

All along my route across the "Sucker State," I encountered, day after day, white hogs and black hogs, hogs of every grade and shade, my horse often stepping aside in equine dignity to allow a drowsy or pugnacious porker to pass.

As I had determined to reach Ottawa by nightfall, I was compelled to ride nearly all day in a drizzling rain which at noon was followed by a heavy thunder shower. This I took advantage of by stopping at Seneca for dinner, and then pushed forward. Was forced to halt again at three o'clock on account of rain, and being near a farm house was invited to "come in" while the good people took care of my horse.

Overtook a troop of boys on horseback near Ottawa and had their lively company into town. There I met an old acquaintance – Mr. Kean – who was among the first to greet me. My time was passed pleasantly here, and I would do injustice to the proprietor of the Clifton were I to forget the many courtesies politely extended to me while his guest.

One hundred and Thirty-third Day

Harrison House,La Salle, Illinois,September Twenty-first.

Left the Clifton House, Ottawa, at two P. M. The weather was still in an unsettled condition which obliged me to make my way as best I could between showers in order to keep my lecture appointment at La Salle. I considered it fortunate that my route was now along the west bank of the Illinois, a stream in which I had long been interested owing to the important part it played as a convenient and favorite water course for the early explorers of the Valley of the Mississippi. Between its verdant banks, Joliet, Marquette, La Salle and others glided on their way to the great stream. How the lover of history and adventure thrills at the accounts of La Salle's Fort Crève-Cœur, and his colony scattered over this same region of country!

Probably none of these historic men paid a more flattering tribute to "La Rivière des Illinois" than Hennepin, the priest, who, when passing down it to the Mississippi was not too much oppressed with anxiety to admire its charms. What a different appearance its shores presented in 1680 to that of 1876! In place of the forest, waving corn fields under high cultivation attracted my attention on every hand, and in contrast to the wilderness inhabited by the savages whom Hennepin encountered, I saw an emigrant train peaceably moving along on its way from the East to the promising country west of the Mississippi.

One hundred and Thirty-fourth Day

Harrison House,La Salle, Illinois,September Twenty-second.

The equinoctial storms were now at their height and as my lecture at Davenport was not to be delivered for some days, I decided to spend a day or two in this pleasant little city, until "Old Sol" had "crossed the line."

I found that this is the centre of important coal and lead mines, which I should have visited and examined, superficially at least, had not the inclement weather prevented. Through the courtesy of Colonel Stephens, editor of the La Salle County Press and a colonel in the volunteer service during the late war, I was introduced to many of the citizens who told me much of the history and enterprises of their town.

One hundred and Thirty-fifth Day

Harrison House,La Salle, Illinois,September Twenty-third.

Rode down to Peru in the morning accompanied by Colonel Stephens, who wished to show me the pride of the county – the big plow works, which constitute the leading industry of the place. Was introduced to members of the firm and shown through the various departments of the establishment, which were certainly imposing in the way of machinery and in the evidence of mechanical skill. We returned to La Salle at four o'clock and my hospitable comrade proposed that we take a stroll through the city, to which I quickly consented.

Colonel Stephens introduced me to my audience in the evening, and made pleasant reference to the brave and chivalrous Custer. My entertainment here was most gratifying and I was warmly assured of the good will of the people through the local press.

I have proved that everywhere in this country the spirit of hospitality reigns. Whether in large cities or small towns, the utmost cordiality prevails, and the stranger can always rely upon a hearty welcome.

One Hundred and Thirty-sixth Day

Farm House,Near Hollowayville, Illinois,September Twenty-fourth.

Upon leaving La Salle at three o'clock in the afternoon, I was told that I would have no difficulty in securing accommodations for myself and horse at Hollowayville, so, with the assurance of finding everything lovely here, I jogged along over the intervening twelve miles at my leisure.

My feelings can better be imagined than described when, on my arrival at the little hamlet, I was looked upon with suspicion. The simple-minded inhabitants hinted that I might possibly be a "highwayman" or a "horse thief," or, for aught they knew, one of the James or Younger brothers. These desperadoes were then exciting the people on both sides of the Mississippi and my equipment, set off with high top boots and gauntlets, with the peculiar trappings of my horse, only made matters worse.

Finding it impossible to secure lodging in the village, I rode on into the country, stopping at a farm house which looked inviting. I entered the front yard slowly and with dignity to dispel the horse thief suspicion. The farmer's daughter, a young girl of seventeen or eighteen years, and a few farm hands, stood about, of whom I asked if the master of the place was at home. The girl took me within, and Monsieur and Madame Croisant received me. They were both in bed, ill, but looking quite comfortable with their heads pointing in different directions. They carried on a lively conversation in French, the daughter interpreting, and in conclusion, after assuring them that I was a harmless person, very tired and hungry, they decided, if the clergyman of the place thought it safe, that I might stay with them. The dominie was called, looked me over a few minutes, cross-questioned me, and approved.

My room that night was unique in more ways than one and would have been punishment enough for Jesse James himself.

When I retired I detected a strong odor in the room and found it due to a collection of sabots, or wooden shoes, seemingly centuries old, which were arranged in a row under my bed. What to do with them was a question, as, under the circumstances, I did not think it best to tamper with the feelings of my host and hostess. As my room was on the ground floor, I decided to place the sabots carefully outside under the window and take them in in the morning before the family was up. Unfortunately it rained and I overslept, so the shoes were discovered full of water before I appeared. However, nothing was said and I ate my breakfast in peace, the good people probably thanking their stars that they and their house had not been robbed.

Before leaving in the morning the La Salle County Press was handed me by Miss Croisant, in which I read the following flattering notice of my lecture in that city and which in some measure compensated for my unpleasant reception at Hollowayville:

"We have not often met with a more agreeable and pleasant gentleman than Captain Willard Glazier, who entertained a very respectable number of our citizens at Opera Hall on Saturday evening by delivering a lecture on 'Echoes from the Revolution.' The captain has a fine voice and his manner of delivery is decidedly interesting, while his language is eloquent and fascinating. His description of the battles of the Revolution, and the heroes who took part in them, from the engagement on the little green at Lexington down to the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, was grand indeed, and was received with frequent and enthusiastic applause. In conclusion he referred in an eloquent and touching manner to the 'Boys in Blue,' who took part in the late war for the Union, and all retired from the hall feeling that the evening had been spent in an agreeable and profitable manner.

"Captain Glazier served under Generals Kilpatrick and Custer during the late war, since which time he has devoted much labor to writing and is now making the attempt to cross the continent from Boston to San Francisco on horseback, for the purpose of collecting material for another work. He left Boston the early part of May, and will endeavor to reach the Sacramento Valley before the fall of the deep snow. His horse, Paul Revere, is a magnificent animal, black as a raven, with the exception of four white feet. He was bred in Kentucky of Black Hawk stock, has turned a mile in 2.33, but owing to his inclination to run away on certain occasions, was not considered a safe horse for the track. The captain, however, has broken him to the saddle, and also convinced him that running away is foolish business; consequently, he and the captain have become fast friends, and with Paul for his only companion, the gallant cavalryman proposes to cross the continent. Success attend him!"

One Hundred and Thirty-seventh Day

Ellsworth House,Wyanet, Illinois,September Twenty-fifth.

The equinoctial storms which had been raging since I left Ottawa, were, for a few days at least, at an end, and a bright autumn sun greeted me every morning as I rode onward. Rich cornfields stretched away on either side of the road, their monotony broken here and there by fine apple and peach orchards just coming into their glory. Another characteristic of Illinois – fine stock farms – were also noticeable, and thus for another stage of fourteen miles, surrounded by evidences of fertility and thrift, I passed on, reaching Wyanet early in the evening.

One Hundred and Thirty-eighth Day

Private House,Annawan, Illinois,September Twenty-sixth.

Before leaving Wyanet I had Paul's bridle – a Mexican make – repaired, and when it was again used he chafed at the restraint of the curb. Not for long though, for we were soon on the prairie, he evidently enjoying it as much as his master. The roads were rougher than usual and there was a change here in the soil, its black clayey loam being very rich and productive, making Henry County noted for its fine farms. Eighteen miles of grass-covered prairie, diversified by cultivated fields, brought me to Annawan, where I was the guest of O. T. Buttermore, and while at this place I received the following gratifying communication from Colonel Stephens of La Salle – further proof of the good will to "the stranger within their gates," of the citizens of La Salle:

La Salle, Illinois,September 25, 1876.

To Captain Willard Glazier:

I take pleasure in expressing to you on behalf of many of our citizens, the gratification afforded our people who listened to your instructive and entertaining lecture given at Opera Hall on Saturday evening last. While in conversation with several of our prominent citizens, among them, W. A. Work, superintendent of our public schools; A. J. O'Connor, clerk of the city court; W. T. Mason, Esq., and others, all of whom were present and heard your lecture, I was requested to write you and tender their hearty thanks for the entertainment and their good wishes for your success in your ride across the continent. Should you ever again visit our city you can rest assured you will be most cordially received.

Very truly yours,R. C. Stephens,Late Colonel U. S. Volunteers.

One Hundred and Thirty-ninth Day

Farm House,Between Genesseo and Moline, Illinois,September Twenty-seventh.

Started away from Annawan at nine o'clock but after riding about a mile and a half I discovered that I had left my journal and was obliged to return for it. All day I was on a seemingly endless prairie, dotted here and there with cornfields and apple orchards. Illinois takes the lead in stock-raising, and the horses and cattle seen in this day's ride were fully up to the best standard.

Had dinner at the house of a coal miner, whom I found very intelligent, and was well entertained by a talk on mining industries in Illinois from a practical point of view. This is a bituminous coal region and there are mines in operation all over the State.

My host, Pullman by name, had recently returned from the Pacific coast and to my eager inquiries was able to tell me much about the country between Omaha and Sacramento.

At night, after having made twenty-one miles, I reached this place and was domiciled with the family of Mrs. Charlotte Bills, who came formerly from Jefferson County, New York. As my native county of Saint Lawrence adjoins Jefferson, the Bills and I had a lively talk on "Old York State," and I became much interested in the work of this enterprising woman and her family.

Mrs. Bills has succeeded in a direction which has not generally been attempted by women; this is the management of a farm. She does a good business and supports herself and children by raising corn for which, in this stock-raising locality, she finds a ready market. The corn is generally bought for hog feed and as these animals quickly fatten upon it, it is profitable. The practical rather than the romantic has place with these Western people who are striving for a livelihood. Each day gave me new ideas of people and their occupations – but this woman-farmer was something unusual and certainly very praiseworthy.

One Hundred and Fortieth Day

Milan House,Milan, Illinois,September Twenty-eighth.

Mounted my horse at eight o'clock and by easy riding reached a farm house in Rock River Bottom, where I passed the noon hour. After dinner I made good time as the weather had changed and become cold, reminding me of the necessity of hurrying on if I would avoid the deep snows which the traveller is sure to encounter in the elevated regions farther west and it was every day more evident that I could not well afford to allow my lecture appointments to conflict with the dispatch of my journey.

On starting from Genesseo in the morning it was my intention to make Moline the evening objective, but I was compelled to halt at Milan – twenty miles from the morning starting-point – where the bridge was torn up that crossed Rock River at this point. Being delayed, I sent a note forward to Davenport informing Babcock that I would cross the Mississippi the following afternoon at three o'clock; in the meantime waiting, with what patience I could muster, for the bridge work to proceed.

CHAPTER XXI.

FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT

I left the Milan House at two P. M., Paul being eager for the start. Before proceeding far I dismounted and ran ahead leaving him to follow me if he would. I ran over two or three small hills and the faithful animal broke into a gallop and was soon by my side mutely inviting me to remount. About four o'clock we crossed the Mississippi on the fine Government Bridge which unites Rock Island and Davenport, and proceeded to the Burtis House – since named the Kimball. Colonel P. A. J. Russell was one of the first to greet me. Moore's Hall having been engaged for my lecture, I spoke at the usual hour to a large audience, to whom General Sanders introduced me. The local band in full uniform volunteered their services for the occasion. The lecture was a financial success.

The next three days were occupied in making my acquaintance with the city. It is only fifty years ago that the first cabin was erected here by white men. By the side of the great river a bluff rises gradually to an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet, and on its side and at its base the city of Davenport is built. Over a bluff we come upon a beautiful rolling prairie, and back as far as Duck Creek the land is covered with fruit, vegetable and flower gardens, and presents a picture of uncommon beauty. Views of the Mississippi are obtained from the summit of the bluff; also of Rock Island Arsenal and Rock Island City on the opposite shore of the river.

In 1832, General Winfield Scott made a treaty with the Indians of the Sac tribe for the purchase by the United States of the land occupied by them bordering on the west side of the river. The city of Davenport was named after Colonel George Davenport, the first white settler. Antoine Le Claire was the first to own land in Davenport. His mother was the daughter of a Pottawatomie chief and his father a French Canadian. At this time the Northwest territory was peopled entirely by Indians, with here and there one of a different race fearless enough to brave the dangers of a frontier life. Le Claire purchased the claim upon which the city of Davenport was laid out for one hundred and fifty dollars. In 1835, he sold it to a company who commenced the building of the city. The first ferry between Davenport and Rock Island dates from 1835. It was a flatboat propelled by oars. At present a large steamboat is constantly employed in transferring passengers and freight between these cities. The river is about a mile in width at this point.

Davenport excels all the other cities of the State in the beauty and advantages of its location. The view from the hill-tops is scarcely to be equalled for picturesqueness by anything I saw during my journey. The city has made great and rapid progress in its industries, wealth and population. The education of the young is well provided for. It has a high school built at a cost of $65,000. Griswold College – Episcopalian – occupies a very picturesque site, overlooking the river. The Catholic College is in a retired and quiet spot, surrounded by beautifully shaded grounds, the buildings being elegant and commodious. The churches are numerous, every denomination being represented. Grace Church, the protestant Cathedral, is a fine substantial edifice, erected at a cost of $80,000.

The Public Library on Brady street, founded by Mrs. Clarissa Cook, a lady of wealth, is a highly prized and flourishing institution. The Academy of Sciences embraces a most valuable and unique collection of rare curiosities, both ancient and modern, among others, relics from the mounds of Iowa and adjoining States, including skulls and skeletons of pre-historic man.

The population of Davenport is now about 20,000. On account of its being built on a declivity the drainage is perfect. It is surrounded by a most fertile country and possesses every element for the growth of a large city.

Recrossing the magnificent bridge spanning the river between Davenport and the Illinois shores, I found myself on Rock Island. The Island lies to the north of the city, the latter not being located on the Island but on the mainland of Illinois. Since 1804 the Island proper has been the property of the United States Government, although not occupied until 1812, on the breaking out of the war with England. The surface is very fertile, and coal and limestone are found in large quantities. It is about three miles long, covering nine hundred and sixty acres. An arsenal and armory are located here. A fort was erected in 1816, and named Fort Armstrong. It was garrisoned until May, 1836, when it was evacuated. An ordnance depot was established by the Government in 1840. In 1862, by Act of Congress, the Island was made a United States Arsenal. General Thomas J. Rodman was the first appointed to the command and held the position until his death. In 1869, Congress appropriated $500,000 for a bridge across the Mississippi uniting the Island with the city of Davenport. This fine structure is a railroad and wagon bridge and affords all necessary facilities for the movement of military stores. General Rodman was succeeded in the command of the Arsenal, in 1871, by Colonel D. W. Flagler of the Ordnance Corps, and the Island has become, under his management, the strongest military post on the Mississippi. Substantial quarters for the officers of the garrison and barracks for the soldiers, have been erected, also a bridge connecting the Island with the city of Moline.