The Antiquities of Constantinople

And thus having given the Reader some Account of the Front or fore-part of the Promontory, I shall now give him a short Description of the back-side of it, which faces the Sea. Behind the second and third Hills there are two lesser Hills, which hang over the Propontis. Between these Hills descends a hollow Valley. These Hills stand in the Middle of the Valley. That which lies Eastward, as well as that which lies to the West, exalts itself to the Height of more than two hundred Paces. At the End of the Valley, between these Hills, is a well built Harbour enclosed with a Wall. ’Tis seated upon the Plain on the Shore, near that part of the Sea which runs up to the Front of the Hippodrom. The Mouth of this Harbour is three hundred Paces in Breadth. From the Bay call’d Cornu, the Breadth crossing the Hill to the Propontis, widens to the Distance of two Miles.

Chap. X.

Of the second Valley, which divides the second from the third Hill

THAT Valley which divides the second from the third Hill, begins at the Promontory, and ends in the Plain adjoining to the Sea. It contains in it the Fish-Market and the Ferry, whence you cross the Water to Syca. From hence to the Entrance of the Valley, a Plain expands itself to the Breadth of four hundred Paces so much upon the Level, that the Water falls from thence into the Bay with almost an imperceptible Descent. When it has contracted itself into the narrow Compass of two hundred Paces in Breadth, it gradually straightens itself into a less, even to the Middle of the Valley, where ’tis but fifty Paces in Breadth, and afterwards is no broader than the common Way. ’Tis above six hundred Paces in Length, three hundred of which are almost upon a Level, the other three hundred upon the Descent. It rises easily to that part of the Promontory, where the second and third Hills join. In the lowermost part of the Valley runs the broad Way that faces Galata. This Way, on both Sides of it, is full of Merchants Houses, cover’d with a kind of transparent Slat, which have here and there a small Casement. The Merchants of Galata frequent the grand Bezestan, or Place of Exchange. ’Tis situate partly on the Head of the Valley, and partly on an Eminence of the third Hill. In the Year of our Lord 1546 it was wholly burnt to the Ground, except two Basilica’s roof’d with Brick-work, which were lock’d up every Night, and their Windows secured by Iron Bars, when the Fire was over. I was allowed after the Fire to view their grand Forum. I found it lie so much upon the Level, that it had but a small Ascent either from the West to the East, or from the South to the North. I observed that it stood upon more than five Furlongs of Ground; on the highest part of it, which lies to the East, I was permitted to see a Nymphæum, adorn’d with five and forty Marble Pillars, which supported a Brick Roof. The old Basilica, of which I could have no Prospect before, by reason of the Shops and publick Houses, the Fire had lain open to my View. I observed farther, that it had two additional Buildings like Wings, joining to the main Building, each of which was divided into sixty Apartments, which were all arched, and over the Roof cover’d with Lead, as their Shops and Places of publick Entertainment are. The inward Chambers of these Apartments, for Privacy, are always lock’d, and are secured by an Iron Door. The Basilica itself consists of fifteen large Apartments, in the Figure of a Dome, has four Doors, and is supported by eight Pillars; the Roof is Brick-work, and leaded at Top. The new Basilica is supported with twelve Pillars built of a square Stone; four Arches bear upon these Pillars, which support twenty small Roofs, built in the Form of a Dome. There stand round about sixty Merchants Warehouses, or Shops with arch’d Roofs. Within the Basilica there are two hundred and twenty more of these Warehouses, which are made after the following Manner. Round the Walls of the Basilica are built abundance of very broad Pews, where the Merchants expose their Goods to Sale, which they take out of Presses, (when they would shew them to their Chapmen) which have Boxes of Drawers in them, the Masters always sitting before them. These Presses are fasten’d to the Wall, have two Folding Doors, and are removable at Pleasure.

Chap. XI.

Of the third Hill

THE third Hill is bounded on each Side by two Valleys: That which lies to the East, divides it from the second Hill, the Western Valley divides it from the fourth. The Ridge of this Hill is above a thousand Paces in Length. It shoots from the Top of the Promontory Southward, Northward to the Bay of Ceras, almost in an equal Height. The second Hill on the contrary falls with a surprizing Descent, from the utmost Height of the Promontory, to the lowest Plain on the Bay Shore. The third Hill, at the Top of it is a Level of a great Length. It extends itself at the Foot of it, more by three hundred Paces to the North, than the Foot of the second Hill. It is not in all Places of an equal Breadth; at the Top of the Promontory itself ’tis every way about eight hundred Paces. Here ’tis that the Seraglio stands. On that part of the Plain which lies to the East, stands the Merchants Forum, a Caravansera, and the Sepulchre of Bajazet the Emperor. On the South Side of it is an open Area, round which stand the Booksellers Shops. On that part of it which lies Northward, stand the Works which the Emperour Solyman is now building, namely his Tomb, a Caravansera, and a magnificent and expensive Mosque. They are built not only upon the natural Situation of the Ground there, but also upon artificial Foundations. This Hill, on three Sides of it, descends upon three lesser Hills. For on that Side of it which lies Eastward, where stands the Tower of Hirena, a small Hill jets out into the second Valley. The long Projecture of this Hill, on the Ridge of it towards the Bay, makes another small Hill which lies Northward, and from that Side of it which points Westward, where stands the Church of St. Theodore, there shoots another little Hill out of the Middle of it, to the Plain which lies on the Sea Shore. Two Sides of this Hill descend in a double Declivity, one in a strait, and the other in an oblique Line. The Eastern Side of the third Hill, after it has extended itself to thirteen hundred Paces Distance, abates somewhat of its winding Descent, but the nearer you descend to the Plain, it falls with a more direct and confined Declivity. The Descents falling from the Ridge of the Hill to the Valley differ very much, the uppermost of them hanging over a very deep Valley, rise to the Height of five hundred Paces, the lowest three hundred of which are very steep, the three hundred Paces above them are scarce half of that Steepness. The other Descents of this Hill are not so shelving, where the Valley rises higher. The Western Side of the Hill, as to its Declivities, is like the Eastern. The Northern Side of it has several Descents: For a lesser Hill, shooting from the Ridge of this Hill, is five hundred Paces high, the lower most three hundred of which fall so precipitately, that the Buildings which stand upon them, are all under-propp’d, the two hundred Paces above them fall with an easy Descent. The Descents on this Side of the Hill, the farther they lie from the Plain on the Sea Shore, the more are they lengthen’d by a sideling Fall, which rises on the Eastern Side of the Hill. The Plain on the Shore, as discontinued by the Inlet of the Bay, is not above two hundred Paces in Breadth, but at the Foot of the Hill, in other Parts of it, it sensibly widens up to the Entrance of the Valleys. The Grand Seraglio, seated on the Side of this Hill, when I first arrived at Constantinople, was little less than six thousand Paces in Compass, but is at present more closely straiten’d, since the Caravansera’s have been built there by the Sultan Solyman, and the burying Place for the Women (which is at least half the Ground) has been taken out of it and enclosed. The left Side of the Promontory, which lies behind the third Hill to the South, jets out with two lesser Hills; from one of which that shoots Eastward, the Side of the Promontory which winds round Westward to the other Hill, which is seated a little above the Foot of the Promontory; and at the Bottom of this Hill, the Promontory admits the third Valley, which lies behind it, and from thence stretches full North. The left Side therefore of the third Hill hath a double Descent; the one towards the South, which is six hundred Paces high, another extending itself South South-west, seven hundred Paces high; but at full West it falls very short of that Height. The Plain that lies between the back Southern Parts of the third Hill, and the Shore of the Propontis, is in no part of it less than three hundred Paces broad, nor above seven hundred Paces long. The Plain of the Valley which encloses the Foot of the Hill Westward, and which divides the seventh Hill from the Promontory, reaching from the Shore of the Propontis, where the Walls are not encompassed by the Sea, is almost upon a Level, and is in every part of it five hundred Paces in Breadth. The three Hills I have mention’d, may very properly be called the Promontory of the Bosporus; for they hang over the Sea in such a manner, that whether you sail to Constantinople out of the Black Sea, or the Propontis, you may see them at a great Distance, prominent over the Chaps of the Bosporus. The third Valley seems to separate the other three Hills, which lie farther into the Continent from these. The Reason why I place six Hills in the Promontory of the Bosporus is, because these latter Hills all stand in a Row near the Bay, and are join’d together both at the Top and the Sides of them. The Plain which unfolds itself on the Ridge of the third Hill, descends gently into a Plain which hangs over the third Valley, and is six hundred and twenty Paces in Length, and as many in Breadth.

Chap. XII.

Of the third Valley

THE third Valley, which lies between the third and the fourth Hill, seems to be a double Valley; for in the Middle of it, it rises high, which makes it doubtful whether it be a part of the Valley, or the Promontory. That the Height of it is a part of the Valley, seems plain from the Height of the Arches, which reach from one Side of the Valley to the other; and it may be look’d upon to be the Ridge of the Promontory, from the Descent of the extreme Parts of it falling to the right and left, on each Side of the Promontory. On the right Side of which, it descends into a very low Plain, which, at its first Entrance, is three hundred Paces broad, and continues on upon a Level to the Length of five hundred Paces more; and though it sinks at Bottom into an equal Depth, yet the Pitches or Sides of it, in some Places, are higher than in others. For where the Plain is most hollow, there one of the Sides of it is three times higher than the other. From this Plain you ascend by easy Steps to the Top of the Middle of the Valley, which is six hundred Paces wide, except that small part of it in the Middle, where it is not above four hundred Paces in Breadth. Through the Top of this Valley, or Promontory, run the Arches of an Aqueduct from the fourth to the third Hill, of the same Height, at the Top of them, with the Hills themselves. The Altitude of these Arches discovers how great the Descent is from them. For though they are alike equal in Height at the Top of them, yet this Height is very different, according to the Difference of their Situations. For they are very high at the Top of the Valley, which is a plain level Ground, but upon the Descent of the Hills not near so high, and continue to the Length of eight hundred Paces in the same Height, though the higher they stand upon these Hills, they are less tall. The Top of this Valley or Promontory, descends with a gentle Fall of seven hundred Paces into a Plain, which divides the Promontory from the seventh Hill, and from thence extends itself to the Propontis. The City from the Bay to the Propontis, passing thro’ the third Valley, is more than ten Furlongs in Breadth.

Chap. XIII.

Of the fourth Hill

THE fourth Hill is enclosed with two Valleys, the Ridge of the Promontory, and the Shore of the Bay. Upon the Side of it stands the Tomb of Mahomet, (who took Constantinople) several Caravansera’s and Bagnio’s. It is above three thousand six hundred Paces in Compass. The Length, from the Ridge of it to the Bay, is a thousand Paces; the Breadth of it, from East to West, is at least eight hundred. As you take a View of it from the Top, stretching in a Square towards the Bay, you perceive it to end in two Windings, though very different from each other. For that which points Northward stretches on in a continued Ridge, and has its Descents on both Sides, whereas that which shoots Eastward lies so low, that it seems to be only an Ascent to the other. At the End of it it winds Westward, where it forms a little Valley. This Hill Eastward is bounded by a Valley, and is parted from the third Hill; on the North by the Plain on the Shore, on the East partly by a Valley, which divides it from the fifth Hill, and partly by the winding of the Promontory, which rises in so gradual and delectable a manner, from the Top of the fourth to the Top of the fifth Hill, that you discover the Ridge of it to be uneven, more by a nice Discernment of the Eye, than by any Difficulty in walking it. For these Hills are join’d together in such a manner, that they seem to lie upon a Level. They are both of them one Plain, which, covering the Top of the fourth Hill, is not above four hundred Paces in Length, nor more than two hundred in Breadth, tho’ afterwards, when continu’d to the fifth Hill, it widens into the Breadth of five hundred Paces. The fourth Hill, tho’ it is equal in Height to any of the other six, yet its Ascents, whether they lie in a strait Line, or more obliquely, are more moderate, by reason it is a long Tract of Ground with three Declivities. The first of which, thro’ the Length of the whole, descends from the Southwest full North more than a thousand Paces; two hundred of which rising from the Sea Shore are a more easy Ascent, the rest rise so very gently that you can scarce perceive them, although the uppermost hundred of them, which reach to the Top of the Hill, are very steep. The cross Descent which runs athwart the Breadth of the Hill is double, one of which falls Westward; the other, which shelves Eastward, rises from the Valley, which divides the third and fourth Hill. From the highest part of this Valley you climb an Ascent two hundred Paces in Height. Below the Top of it is another Ascent, which is five hundred Paces high, one hundred of which rising from the Bottom are very steep. The Height of the rest, which are an easy Ascent, you discover by the Level of the Aqueduct. From the Bottom of the Valley you ascend four hundred Paces, the first hundred and eighty of which are very steep, after which you may walk two hundred more almost upon a Level. From hence you rise to the Middle of it, which is higher, and is a hundred Paces in Breadth. It is also elevated eight hundred Paces in Length, from the Top of it to the Bottom. From hence you descend two hundred Paces Westward to the lowest Part of the Valley, which divides the fourth and the fifth Hill, which is all a narrow Piece of Ground, and about four hundred Paces in Length. The first two hundred Paces upon the Shore of the Bay are all upon a Level; but it is an Uncertainty whether they are a part of the Valley, or the Sea Shore. For this Valley is enclosed in such a manner by these two Hills, as the fourth is bounded by the Plain upon the Shore, which is two hundred Paces broad, whereas the fifth does scarce descend so far. The following eight hundred Paces are much upon the same Level, the last four hundred of which, stretching to the Top of the Promontory, are very steep. The Plain upon the Shore, passing between the Bay and the fourth Hill, is of a different Breadth. For that part of it which extends itself to the South-western Point of the Hill, is four hundred Paces broad, whereas that part of it which extends itself to the Northern Point, is no more in Breadth than two hundred Paces. In short, such is the Situation of the fourth Hill, that when you sail along the Bay, you would take it to be an advanced part of the third Valley. For the Top of this Hill runs so far Southward, that its Descents, shelving very moderately, seem almost upon a Level; whereas the Top of the fifth Hill, which is of the same Height, projects beyond the fourth directly Northward. The Descents on the Back of the third Hill, which lie Southward, are very easy and agreeable, till you come to the Plain of the Vale, which divides the Promontory from the seventh Hill; so that the back part of this Hill shoots Southward, and is not bounded on either Side of it by the third Valley. This Southern Part of it is somewhat narrow, just beyond a little Hill of the third Valley, near a Caravansera, built by the Sultan Mahomet; but behind the fifth Hill, below the Columna Virginea, ’tis straitned much more.

Chap. XIV.

Of the Fifth Hill

THE Bottom of the fifth Hill, on the Top of which stands the Tomb of Selymus the Emperor, as bounded partly by the Bay, and partly by an Eastern and Western Valley, is four thousand Paces in Compass. The Pitch of this Hill hangs so far over the Bay Northward, and the Pitch of the fourth Hill lies so low towards the same Point, that the fourth Hill seems to be a kind of Valley, situate between the third, and the fifth Hill. For the fifth Hill does not join at Top, and continue the Ridge of the Promontory as other Hills do, but being of an equal Heighth with it, shoots to a great Distance beyond it running as far Northward, as does the Foot of the fourth Hill. It has a Descent on three Sides of it; one to the North, the Steepness of which the Reader may learn from hence, that altho’ it is very near the Heighth of the fourth Hill, which is above a thousand Paces high, yet the highest Ascent of this Hill comes nearer upon the Line, than that of any other Hill, to the lowest Ascent from the Bottom; for you ascend thro’ a little Valley, no more than three hundred Paces high to the Top of it. This Valley is form’d by two small Hills adjoining to the Shore of the Bay, upon which, at about four hundred Paces distance, you discover some Stone Steps, belonging to a Foundation of a Caravansera, built by the Emperor Selymus. This Northern Side of the Hill has four small Hills jetting out of it, three small Valleys running between them, which rise from the Top of the Hill, and are situate at such a Distance from the Plain upon the Shore, that two of them touch the Wall which stands upon it; the other two are a hundred Paces from it. The Plain upon the Shore is in no Part of it narrower than it is at the Foot of this Hill; for to the Distance of a thousand Paces, it does not exceed a hundred Paces in Breadth, and in some Places not fifty. Two of these Hills are very steep, so that the Buildings you see upon them, as tho’ they were in danger of falling, are all underpropp’d, and the Inhabitants have been oblig’d to cut Windings in the Rocks to moderate the Descent. The other two are less Precipitate, the Valleys which enclose them not lying so deep. The Side of the Hill which shoots Eastward is one thousand four hundred Paces in Length, and two hundred in Breadth, and its Altitude two hundred Paces upon the Perpendicular. The Height of the Side of it, which falls Westward, shelves into a different Depth, according as the Valley sinks. Where it descends into a Level Plain, it advances its Top to the Height of five hundred Paces. In other Places it rises no higher than three hundred, with a very moderate Ascent. The Side of the Promontory which points Southward, situate behind the fifth Hill, ends in the Plain of the Valley, which divides the Promontory from the seventh Hill. In other Places it falls with a more confined, and sometimes with a more expanded Descent, upon a small thick Hill, which hangs over the fifth Valley; as also over that Valley which parts the Promontory from the seventh Hill. The back Part of the fifth Hill does also wind it self into a small Valley, which rises at the Brow of the Promontory, where not long since was remaining the Columna Virginea. From hence the Ridge of the Promontory somewhat bends over the Top of the Plain of the fifth Hill, which in some Places is six hundred, and in others seven hundred Paces broad. But beyond the Ridge of this Hill it widens to a great Distance, as far as the Plain of the fourth Hill, and shoots on with the Plain of the Promontory, and falls down to the Neck of the Isthmus, and so extending it self still on, is at least two thousand Paces in Length.

Chap. XV.

Of the Fifth Valley

THE fifth Valley, which divides the fifth from the sixth Hill, winding from North to South, is as long as the Promontory is broad; that is, about twelve hundred Paces; the first eight hundred of which have no Ascent. The Valley, at the first Entrance into it, is at least four hundred Paces broad, but is afterwards straitned into half that Breadth; and yet to the Length of six hundred Paces, ’tis in no Place less than two hundred Paces broad. Farther, ’tis at least five hundred Paces wide. Above this, is the Top of the Valley, or the Ridge of the Promontory, opening upon a Level Breadth of two hundred Paces. From the Top of this Promontory, to the left Side of it, there falls a Valley with a gentle Descent, to the Distance of five hundred Paces, where it descends into another Valley, which divides the Promontory from the seventh Hill. The fifth Valley seems to cut through the Ridge of the Promontory. This may easily be discerned by the right and left Descent of the two Hills which lie nearest to it; for there is a very easy Ascent from the Height of this Valley, to the Top of either Hill.

Chap. XVI

THE sixth Hill is just as long as the Promontory is broad, which is widen’d upon this Hill to the Breadth of two thousand four hundred Paces. The City Walls shoot over the Ridge, and the North Side of it down to the Sea Shore. You descend gradually from the Top of it within the Walls; without the Walls it lies upon a Level, and is join’d to the Continent by a Field in the Suburbs. The broadest part of it is not above eight hundred Paces, the narrowest but four hundred. It descends with a treble Declivity; one on the left Hand of the Promontory, with an easy Descent at South-east; another on the right falling to the Bay Northward, which extends itself to the Distance of fifteen hundred Paces. There are two lesser Hills, separated by a small Valley, which run between them. At the Foot of that lesser Hill which stands nearest to the City Wall, there is an Aqueduct. Between this Hill and the Bay, there formerly stood the Church of the Blachernæ, which has been recorded in the Writings of many Historians. The Foundation of this Church was remaining, when I first arrived at Constantinople. From the Foot of this Hill, which stands above the Church I have mention’d, there rises a Spring, whose Waters are convey’d thro’ arch’d subterraneous Passages into the City, where, appearing above Ground, they flow constantly into a Marble Cistern. That Side of the sixth Hill which lies Eastward, is as long as the Hill itself; but does not, in all parts of it, fall with the same Descent. For the Descent varies, according as the Valley adjoining lies higher or lower. Where the Valley lies upon the Level, the Pitch of the Hill rises to the Height of six hundred Paces; where it does not lie so low, ’tis not above five hundred Paces high; where it rises higher, not above four hundred. Nor does this Side of the Hill shoot only Eastward, but does also, on the right Side of it, project Northward, and on the left Side of it extend itself full South-west. The Plain on the Shore, which lies between the Foot of the Hill and the Bay, in the narrow part of it, is not above eight hundred Paces broad, I mean in that Place where the Church of the Blachernæ stood formerly, as did also a Triclinium; but farther on it winds round into the third Valley, and widens much more.