Recollections of a Busy Life: Being the Reminiscences of a Liverpool Merchant 1840-1910

It is difficult to enumerate all the trees which give so much charm to the garden, but I must not forget the acacias, gums, indiarubber trees, eucalyptus, and many varieties of mimosa.

The garden is thrown open to the public upon a small payment, and forms one of the great attractions of Biskra. It is difficult to conceive a more wonderful contrast than that between the luxuriant tropical vegetation of the Count's garden and the arid, sandy wastes of the Sahara with which it is surrounded, and out of which indeed it has been created. It was amusing to run across in out-of-the-way nooks and corners so many people diligently reading, and it was always the same book, the Garden of Allah.

Egypt

There is probably no country so fascinating to the traveller as Egypt. It is not merely that it is Oriental and picturesque, but it is a Bible land and the seat of the early dawn of civilisation. Its explorers have made discoveries out of which they have been enabled to build up the history of an ancient and most remarkable people; and while the traveller beholds in wonder the gigantic proportions of pyramid, pylon and temple, he is fascinated by the story which recent discoveries have woven around them. One cannot visit Egypt without becoming an Egyptologist in a small way. My two visits to Assouan gave me a very good grasp of the centuries of history rolled up within the Nile valley, and enabled me to deliver on my return several lectures in the Picton Lecture Hall in connection with our course of free lectures.

Things have been changed very much in Egypt. The lovely island of Philæ, with its Ptolemean temple, is submerged, and the valley of the Nile has changed its character by the raising of its waters. Cairo has become the pilgrimage of the fashionable, and much of what was primitive and interesting has been improved away, but still the Egypt of history remains, and will remain, to charm and fascinate with its spell of romance – its reverence for the dead and the grandeur of its religious rites and ceremonies.

Impressions of India

India awakens within us such a sense of vastness and distance, and so strongly appeals to our imagination, that one is much tempted to write at length that others may enter into our enjoyment of a country and a people so great, so picturesque, and so remarkable. It was this feeling which prompted me, while in India, to write a series of letters to the Liverpool Daily Post. These letters are too long to be reproduced here, and I must, therefore, confine myself to a brief résumé of our impressions of India. The first thing which almost staggers the imagination is the extent of our Indian Empire.

Landing in Ceylon, which lies only seven degrees north of the Equator, we were surrounded by the most profuse and luxuriant tropical vegetation; and the vertical rays of the sun kept us indoors, except in the early morning and late evening. A few days later we had passed through Calcutta and found ourselves at Darjeeling, with snow lying all about us, and with the mighty snow-ranges of the Himalayas piled up before us, and yet we had not left India. We were surrounded by 300,000,000 of people belonging to six hundred nationalities, and speaking as many languages, differing not only in nationality and in language, but in religion, in civilisation, and in their manners and customs, and all this multitude of peoples, nations, and languages were comprised in "India."

Nothing brings this great diversity among the people of India more vividly before the mind than a walk through one of the main streets of Calcutta. Here one meets with natives from every part, some arrayed in simple white garments, but others clothed in gorgeous apparel. Their costumes of silk and satin are radiant with a dazzling wealth of colour, every nationality having its distinctive dress, the Bengalese, the Pathan, the Sikh, the Nepaulese, the Tamils, and the Mahrattas, and all walk with that dignified bearing which proclaims them to be members of a princely class. Our wonder increases. How comes it that this multitude of peoples, these descendants of martial races, live together in peace and amity?

The plains of Delhi, which for 2,000 years were the arena of perpetual conflict as nations were made and unmade, proclaim the warlike character of the people, the intensity of their national hatred, and the ferocity of their bloody feuds. They are now held together in peaceful union by legions of British troops – there are but 70,000 British troops in all India – and probably 250,000,000 out of the 300,000,000 people in India have never seen a British soldier.

This great phalanx of nations is held together, is made happy and prosperous, by the just rule which appeals to their imagination and their sense of justice, and which is administered by 900 British civilians, who are for the most part men under 40 years of age. I think this is one of the most remarkable spectacles the world has ever seen. It speaks well for the English public-school system which has trained these men. It speaks also well for honest administration and the influence and power which it exerts, exercising a moral influence greater and more far-reaching than any military rule.

The most interesting study in India is that of the people, among whom there is the greatest difference in physique. We have the lithe, active little coolie of Southern and Central India, the hewer of wood and the drawer of water; the fat, astute, and subtle Bengalee, devoid of moral or physical courage, a born agitator; the stalwart hillmen of the North-West who furnish our Indian army with its best recruits; and the Mahrattas, the descendants of warlike races, who to-day are among the most active traders.

The student of character has a wide and fruitful field for investigation, but there are certain features which stand out prominently – their marvellous patience, their devotion to their religion, which is almost fanatical. Like the Egyptians of old, they live in the contemplation of death, and look upon death as the great consummation. The elaborate and magnificent tombs we see everywhere correspond to the pyramids and monumental buildings of ancient Egypt; while their ruinous condition attest the wisdom of Solomon, that "Vanity of vanity, all is vanity."

The poverty of India is also striking, but it is not so great as it appears. When we talk of a daily wage of twopence it seems almost impossible that life can be supported on any such sum; but in India a penny will buy all the rice the coolie can eat, and his other expenses are very small. Still, it must be considered a poor country.

There is no scenery in India until we reach the hills, which occupy a considerable area in the Madras presidency, and margin the whole of the North-West. Central and Southern India are vast plains. The grandest mountain view in the world is that of the Himalayas, from Darjeeling. Darjeeling stands at an elevation of 7,000 to 8,000 feet, on the foot hills of the Himalayas, about forty miles from "Kinchin Junga," which is the centre of one of the highest ranges. In the foreground are several deep valleys, usually filled with clouds. Looking over these, a further great bank of clouds appears high up in the heavens. On closer examination we begin to see they are not clouds; their opaque, snowy whiteness and their sharp peaks and serrated edges tell us that this is a range of mountains. "Kinchin Junga" stands in the centre, with an altitude of 28,000 feet, but in this mighty mountain group there is no mountain less than 24,000 feet, and not one of these has been scaled by man. On a clear evening, when the setting sun throws its roseate rays over the snows, no view can be more sublime and beautiful. Away on the west they dip down into Nepaul, and on the extreme right the deep indentation marks the pass by which the British troops entered Tibet.

We do not travel to India to see scenery, but Oriental life: the splendours of Agra and Delhi, the pilgrim city of Benares, and the silent, deserted cities of Fatehpur Sikri and Amber, all rich in historical records of the great Mogul kings, who for so many centuries held sway in India. It is only by seeing these places that one can form some idea of the magnificence and splendour which surrounded these monarchs, which has never been surpassed.

While we were in India we saw the beginnings of that unrest which has caused so much anxiety and has led to those outrages which the best Indians must deplore. We have in promoting education in India forgotten that there is but a limited opening for mere students, and in the absence of fitting occupation they become agitators. We ought to train the young men for some definite calling as agriculturists, engineers, or mechanics.

We also thought that the Europeans in India hold themselves too much aloof from the educated Indians. Caste prevents any great intimacy, but more might be done to bridge this over.

With small and reasonable concessions to native ambition, but, above all, with that firmness of administration which alone appeals to the Oriental mind, the present feeling of unrest will pass away, and India will continue to pursue that remarkable development and progress which have done so much for the happiness and well-being of her people.

Lord Clive

In the summer of 1906, when motoring through Shropshire, I turned aside to visit the little village church of Morton Saye, of which my great-grandfather, Samuel Peploe, was vicar in 1770. I had not visited the church for nearly fifty years. Then it was a very quaint, old-fashioned place, with black oak pews and a black oak minstrel gallery at one end close to the pulpit. This was the singing gallery, the choir of three voices being led by a violin and cornet.

I found all had been changed. The church had been restored; the old features had disappeared; but fortunately the restoration had been carried out in good taste. I spoke to the vicar, who had followed us in, and who was evidently proud of his little church; he showed me the brass plate he had taken off the coffin of my grandfather, and had placed as a memorial on the walls of the church. I knew the great Lord Clive had been buried in the church, and asked to see his grave. The vicar pointed to a flag-stone under some pews. There was no inscription upon it, and he said that the only record they had that the great soldier was buried in the church was the small brass plate above the vestry door, and he added: – "Strange to say, there is no memorial to the man who made India, either in England or India, except in Shrewsbury, his native town. I suppose," he added, "it was because he committed suicide." On his return home from India Lord Clive was furiously attacked by political enemies, and the man who had shown on so many occasions such conspicuous courage on the field of battle quailed and fell, struck down by the venom of his calumniators.

When I was in India during the year following I enquired everywhere for a memorial to Lord Clive, but, although India bristles with statues to its governor-generals and eminent soldiers, there is in India to-day no record of Lord Clive. I was so much impressed with this that I wrote the following letter to The Times: —

Grand Hotel,Calcutta, Feb. 8th, 1907.Lord Clive

To the Editor of The Times.

Sir, – India has many monuments erected in honour of successful and popular viceroys and others who have served her well, but I have been unable to discover any monument to Lord Clive, to whom more than any human being we owe our great empire of India. Westminster Abbey contains no record of the great soldier-statesman.

In the by-ways of Shropshire, in the quaint little church of Morton-Saye, the village swain sits Sunday after Sunday over the grave of Lord Clive. No inscription marks it, not even his name; a small brass plate hid away over the vestry door and scarcely legible is the only record that the remains of Robert Clive rest within its walls.

Truly Lord Clive made India, but in the making of it he aroused jealousies and political enmities which, acting upon a too sensitive nature, brought him to a premature death. But should he be forgotten?

The good work which Lord Curzon did for India in every direction is, I am glad to find, gratefully recognised and appreciated by her people. Among the many excellent things he accomplished was the preservation of her ancient monuments and historical records; and, if he had remained in office, I am sure the memory of his illustrious predecessor would not have been forgotten.

The Maidan, in Calcutta, would be enriched if it embraced a monument to Lord Clive. Westminster Abbey would more truly reflect all that is great and worthy in England's history if it contained some appropriate record of Robert Clive and what he did to build up her empire.

Yours truly,(Signed) William B. Forwood,Chairman of Quarter Sessions for Lancashire.

The Times wrote a leading article; Lord Curzon followed with a brilliant letter, and other letters appeared, with a result that a committee was formed, the sum of between £5,000 and £6,000 was subscribed, and we shall shortly have memorials of the great soldier-statesman both in London and in India.

CHAPTER XIX.

RECREATIONS

It is a good thing to have a "hobby." Perhaps in these days we have too many, and pursue them with too much intensity, to the neglect of more important matters. To this I must, to some extent, plead guilty. I have devoted much time and thought to boating and to gardening.

My boating days commenced in the 'sixties, when I frequently sailed with my uncle, Alfred Bower, who owned some of the crack yachts belonging to the Birkenhead Model Yacht Club – the "Presto," "Challenge," "Enigma," etc. They were large beamy boats, of about eight to ten tons, with centre boards. Our racing was mostly in the upper reaches of the Mersey, lying between Eastham and the Aigburth shore.

In 1866 I made my first venture, buying the American centre-board yacht "Truant," which had greatly distinguished herself for speed, and taking her up to Windermere. She was not, however, of much use on that expansive but treacherous sheet of water. The heavy squalls were too much for her huge sail plan. I also owned and sailed on the Mersey the "Glance," eight tons; "Satanella," fifteen tons; "Saraband," fourteen tons; and "Leander," twenty tons.

I then for a time gave up yachting on the Mersey, and in 1868 bought a racing boat on Lake Windermere, the "Spray." She was most successful, winning in 1870 every race we sailed.

In 1871 I was induced to build a twenty-ton racing cutter for the sea, and called her the "Playmate." She was built by Ratsey, at Cowes, and was the first boat to carry all her lead ballast on her keel, and in consequence her advent was watched with considerable interest. I sailed her for two years in the various regattas round the coast, on the Solent and on the Clyde, but she was only fairly successful. The competition in the class was very keen, and the boats built by Dan Hatcher carried away most of the prizes.

This was the time when yachting, I think, reached its highest point of interest, and the matches of the forty, twenty, and ten ton classes were watched with great keenness throughout the country. In the forty-ton class we had the "Norman," "Muriel," "Bloodhound," "Glance," etc.; and in the twenty-ton class the "Vanessa," "Quickstep," "Sunshine," etc. We had also some very fine sixty-tonners, and an excellent class in schooners. Our regattas were conducted with much keenness, and created great enthusiasm. Locally we had many active yachting men, Mr. David MacIver, M.P., who sailed the "Sunshine," the "Shadow," and the "Gleam"; Mr. Gibson Sinclair, Mr. Astley Gardner, Mr. Coddington, Mr. Andrew Anderson, Mr. St. Clair Byrne, and others.

It is always wise, and I am sure in the long run pays best, to do everything thoroughly, even although it is only for sport or pastime; and when the Board of Trade allowed yacht owners to present themselves for examination and obtain their certificates as master mariners, I entered my name, and was the fourth yacht owner to qualify, Lord Brassey being the first. My sea experience was, of course, of great service to me. I afterwards found my Board of Trade certificate as a master mariner gave me increased pleasure in yachting, and my crew great confidence in my skill as a navigator.

Selling the "Playmate," I returned to Windermere; indeed I had never left it, but sailed the regattas each year, and in the year 1908 I completed my forty consecutive years' racing upon the lake, winning, for the second year in succession, the Champion Cup. The competition for this cup is limited to yachts which have won first or second prizes. My yacht, the "Kelpie," was designed by Mr. A. Mylne, of Glasgow. She is quite one of the smartest boats on the lake, particularly in light weather.

During my forty years' sailing upon the lake I have witnessed great changes in the designs of the competing yachts. The boats starting with a length of 20 feet on the water line, were gradually enlarged by being designed to immerse the whole of the counter, making the water line length 26 feet 6 inches. We carried about 750 feet area of sails, including in this a huge foresail. The boats were large and powerful, but difficult to manage, and it is a wonder no accident took place. We afterwards introduced a load line length of 22 feet with overhangs, with the result that we have established a very smart and useful class of boat.

I built many yachts on the lake – the "Althea," "Truant," "Charm," "Brenda," "Playmate," "Breeze," "Pastime," and "Kelpie" – and several boats for the smaller class. I also built in 1881 the steel launch "Banshee." She was designed by Alexander Richardson, and is to-day the prettiest launch on the lake. I have raced on Windermere with varying success, but it has been the source of enormous enjoyment, and the days spent on Windermere are among my happiest. When we first visited Bowness we were content to reside in lodgings, but in 1879 we rented "Fellborough," a charming little house on the lake shore below the ferry. After remaining here three or four years, we occupied for longer or shorter periods Wynlass Beck, Loughrigg Brow, Ambleside, High Wray Bank; and in 1889 I took on a long lease "Wykefield," at the head of Pull Wyke Bay, a charming house with lovely gardens, and furnished also with a boathouse and pier. Here we remained until 1902, and since that time we have occasionally occupied Wray Cottage, a pretty dwelling nestling under the shadow of Wray Castle.

It would indeed be very difficult to describe the enjoyment Windermere has afforded us during all these years. Our long walks, mountain climbs, picnics on the lakes, fishing, and last, but not least, our regattas, filled our days with pleasure, and we look back upon our holidays with sunny memories of great happiness.

In 1904 I wrote a history of the Royal Windermere Yacht Club. The Rev. Canon Rawnsley added an interesting chapter descriptive of the lake, and the book was illustrated by some excellent photographs.

As a thankoffering to God for permitting us to enjoy such great happiness, in 1908 we placed a stained-glass window in the Parish Church at Bowness representing the Te Deum.

In 1880 we built at Lymington a fifty-ton yawl, which was named the "Leander." In this we cruised for three summers off the west coast of Scotland and south coast of England; but I found I could not spare the necessary time, and was obliged to give up sea yachting for good in 1885.

I was elected rear-commodore of the Royal Mersey Yacht Club in 1879, and was for a time also commodore of the Cheshire Yacht Club.

Yacht Racing Association

In my early days of sea racing, being much impressed by the want of a central authority to regulate all matters connected with yacht racing, I brought the question under the notice of Mr. Dixon Kemp, the yachting editor of the Field. He consulted Colonel Leach, a very leading and influential yachtsman, with the result that we formed the Yacht Racing Association. We secured the Prince of Wales as our president, and the Marquis of Exeter as our chairman, and very speedily recruited a large number of members.

I was elected a member of the Council and subsequently chairman of the Measurement Committee, which had very important work to do in connection with the rating of yachts for racing purposes. The old Thames rule was played out; yachts had become of such excessive length and depth that a new rule of measurement became necessary. We took a large amount of expert evidence, and finally drafted a rule which was adopted and remained in force until the present international rule superseded it.

Royal Canoe Club

This club was founded in the 'sixties by "Rob Roy" Macgregor, who had built a small decked canoe, in which he had navigated the principal rivers in Europe and the Holy Land. Macgregor was not only an enthusiastic boating man, but he was a good Christian worker and philanthropist, well known in the East End of London. "Rob Roy" appealed to me and others to form a Northern branch of the Canoe Club on the Mersey. We did so in 1868, establishing our headquarters at Tranmere. The club was very flourishing, and the upper reaches of the Mersey formed a very attractive cruising ground; but the increase in the number of steamers destroyed canoeing on the Mersey as it has destroyed yachting. Living, as we did, at Seaforth, I was able to run my canoe down to the shore and enjoy many pleasant sails in the Crosby Channel. Finding an ordinary "Rob Roy" was too small and very wet in a seaway I designed and built a sailing canoe with a centre board, which was a great success and was the pioneer of sailing canoes.

Gardening

There can be no more delightful pastime than gardening. I may claim this to be my pet "hobby." Other pastimes are evanescent and leave behind them no lasting results or afford no more than a passing pleasure; but in gardening we have seedtime and harvest, all the pleasures of sowing and planting, watching the gradual growth, training, and nurturing the young plant, and in due time gathering in the flowers or fruit, and in these days when so much is done in "hybridising" we have the added charm of experimenting in raising new varieties. We began to import orchids in 1866, bringing them from the West Indies and Central America in large wooden boxes, thinking it necessary to keep them growing, but we lost more than half on the voyage. They are now roughly packed in baskets or bales and a very large percentage arrive safely.

When in India in 1907, at Darjeeling, I hired two men and two donkeys to go down into the valleys of Bhutan to collect orchids. They returned in about ten days with four large baskets full, chiefly denrobiums. Among them there was a good deal of rubbish, but also many good plants, which I sent home, and which have since flowered and done well. There are no plants more difficult to kill than orchids; but, on the other hand, there are no plants more difficult to grow and to flower. Their habits must be known and studied, and, above all, they must be provided with the exact temperature and degree of moisture they have been accustomed to. But the reward of successful cultivation is great and worth striving for. No flowers can be more lovely in form and in colour, and they have the great merit of lasting for days and even weeks in all the wealth of luxuriant beauty. They are the aristocracy of flowers.

CHAPTER XX.

OBITER DICTA

Life viewed in retrospect down the vista of half a century of activity, presents many lessons which may be both interesting and instructive – lessons from one's own experience, lessons derived from watching the careers of others, of those who have made a brilliant success, of others who have made a disastrous failure, and of the many who have lived all their lives on the ragged edge between plenty and penury.

It is also instructive to notice the conditions under which the great problem of life had to be worked out, as they vary to some extent with each decade. The world does not stand still, it will not mark time for our convenience; we have to go with the times, and the enigma of life is how to turn them to the best account.

The outstanding features of the present day are the keenness of competition in every walk of life, and the rapidity with which events occur, creating a hurry which is prejudicial to the careful ordering of one's own life.