Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

From Boston to Quincy there is a good turnpike road. It runs over some hills, on which the traveller sees a handsome panorama; behind him the city, on the left the bay, in front a well-cultivated region with handsome farms, on the right the Blue Hills. We passed by several neat farm-houses; the grounds are separated by means of dry walls, the stones of which are partly hewn, and separated from each other, somewhat like those of Scotland. No old trees are found, because the first settlers very imprudently destroyed all the wood, and now it must be raised again with much trouble. Lombardy poplars, and plane trees are frequent. The inhabitants generally appear to be in good circumstances, at least the farmers seem to prosper, and the houses appear to great advantage, for instance, we remarked a common village blacksmith shop, which was built of massive granite. At the very neat village of Miltonbridge we passed over the river Neponset, which is navigable for small vessels.

Quincy contains about four thousand inhabitants, and has assumed this name in honour of the mayor’s family, which is here much beloved and esteemed. Mr. Quincy’s country seat, to which we repaired from the house of the ex-president, is about two miles distant from the latter, and lies in the neighbourhood of the sea on a small eminence, from which there is a very handsome prospect towards the bay. Mr. Quincy introduced us to his family, to his wife, two sons, and four daughters. The eldest daughter is very accomplished, and excels in painting landscapes in sepia. Some years ago she visited the Falls of Niagara with her family, and sketched several views. The other daughters are also very well educated, and have a talent for music. We met here several gentlemen from Boston, among others, Mr. Shepherd, Mr. Everett, and President Kirkland, from Cambridge, who was accompanied by an aged English teacher, Mr. Cooper, who fled from England with Priestley, thirty-five years ago, and now directs Columbia College in South Carolina. He appeared to be a gloomy, austere man, and very different in his address from the humane and friendly manner of Dr. Kirkland. Towards evening we returned to Boston by a shorter road, and passed the Neponset by means of a long wooden bridge, which Mr. Quincy built not far from the place where it empties into the sea. We then passed through Dorchester, and saw on an eminence to the right the remains of two redoubts, built by the English, which the great Washington took from them, strengthened, and thus principally contributed to the evacuation of Boston.

I accompanied, August 4th, a party to a Mr. Nathaniel Amory; we passed over the long mill-dam, which cuts off a part of the water surrounding Boston, and is to be filled up in time, and houses built on it. Six miles from the city is a wooden bridge over Charles river, which we crossed to see the arsenal on the opposite side. This establishment was built in 1816. A long yard, surrounded with a wall of granite, is attached to the chief arsenal, which is three stories high, with two wings, containing the offices and dwellings of the two directors, Major Craige and Lieutenant Van Nessen. The workshops of the different mechanics, belonging to the arsenal, are arranged behind this building, on each side of the yard; at a short distance from the arsenal stands the powder magazine, built of granite, and containing about fifty thousand pounds; thirty thousand stands of arms are contained in the arsenal in chests, each holding twenty pieces. I saw there a newly-invented machine for casting a hundred and sixty-two balls at once, giving them at the same time a perfectly round form. The arsenal is very pleasantly situated in Watertown.

We passed farther along the shore, through a romantic part of the country, towards Waltham. At this place a branch of a large cotton manufactory is situated, belonging to a company of twenty-five persons. It is under the direction of Mr. Jackson, who possesses a very handsome dwelling, where he appears to pass a happy life with his amiable family. About four hundred and fifty workmen are employed, who live in different buildings belonging to the factory, and form a particular colony; they have two schools, a church, and a clergyman. They appear to be in very good circumstances, as the dress, cleanly exterior, and healthy appearance of the workmen testify. In these buildings the cotton is spun and woven; but the colouring and printing are performed in another establishment. The machines are worked by water, which is said not to freeze in winter, but sometimes fails in dry summers. More simple machines than jennys are used for spinning, and the dressing machines are different from those in the Netherlands, though not better, I believe, as they have but one cylinder. The weaving machines are mostly of wood, which is very cheap, though I believe that our iron ones are better. The workmen of this factory are, as I have since learned, esteemed on account of their good manners, and their morality is universally praised. But one case of seduction occurred in ten years. After leaving this factory we passed by several very neat houses and parks; the latter are smaller than those in England, because in this country there are no rights of primogeniture, and the estate of parents at their death is divided into as many parts as there are children. On this account we do not find such great and powerful landholders here as in England. It is a subject of dispute, whether primogeniture or equal division be preferable; but it is certain that real prosperity is much more diffused through the nation in America, and the land is better cultivated.

Mr. Nathaniel Amory’s country seat lies on a small eminence in a tolerably large park, and affords an extensive prospect of the vicinity of Boston. Mr. Amory collected several good paintings of the Flemish school in his travels, and some handsome mosaic work in Rome, with which his house is decorated. In the afternoon we took a walk through the park to a cottage, which belongs to the English sea captain, Wormley, brother-in-law of Mr. Amory, and, though small, is very neatly arranged, and handsomely situated. A small lake, called the Fresh Pond, with its shady trees, affords a very picturesque view. After spending some time very agreeably with his friendly family, we returned at nine o’clock in the evening, by way of Cambridge to Boston.

I visited the navy-yard on the 5th August, in company with Major Wainwright, of the marines, and Lieutenant Gwynn. In the small barracks of the marines where we commenced, the rooms are not large; the beds stand on a platform, so that the rooms are very narrow and close. The appearance of the soldiers was not remarkable. The navy-yard was founded only twelve years ago, and not yet completed, but is very extensive. A dry dock has not yet been made, but will be advantageously placed. The two line of battle ships, Columbus and Independence, and the frigate Java, were in ordinary. Two line of battle-ships and a corvette were on the stocks, and not yet named. The two former, which were under sheds, were finished, so that they could leave the stocks as soon as government should order. But as no loss was incurred, the vessels were allowed to lie on the stocks, and under shelter as long as possible, that the wood may become still better seasoned. The sheds are larger than the English, and are actual houses. The two vessels are very modestly called seventy-fours, but have each three decks; the one pierced for one hundred and thirty thirty-two pounders, and the other for an hundred and thirty-six, of the same caliber. They are built of live oak, and to prevent the dry rot, salt is scattered among the timbers, which, as I was told, was of great advantage. The vessels are so high and roomy, that I could stand erect in the two lower batteries under the beams. Some methods which tend to strengthen and relieve vessels, used in other places, have not yet been adopted here; for instance, I did not observe the cruciform strengthening of the sides, and the diagonal deck, according to the plan of Sir Robert Seppings, from which two improvements the navies of England and the Netherlands derive the greatest advantage. The same system which prevails in England is observed here, namely, not to employ shipwrights for builders, as in the Netherlands and in France, but carpenters. Mr. Baker, the master shipwright of this place, with whom I became acquainted, is considered to be a very skilful man.

After we had seen the navy-yard, been much gratified with its good condition, and wishing it might soon be finished, we visited the lady of the commissioner, Captain Craine, who was absent. The commissioner’s house belongs to the government, and is placed on a height overlooking the navy-yard; the architect who planned it, worried the commissioner with continual questions relative to the form of the house, until finally he replied in great vexation, build it like my —. The architect took him at his word, and built it with two round projections standing close together, which have a very curious appearance from the navy-yard. We saw in the navy-yard sails of cotton canvass, which are preferred to hempen sails, both because they are more easily worked, and are peculiarly durable. They are not, however, liked in the navy, because they are too combustible, and on that account might be extremely dangerous to a vessel during an action; they are therefore used only for the higher sails.

On the next day Mr. Quincy very politely invited me to visit some of the public schools, which are under his direction. I accepted this invitation with much pleasure, for in a country like this, where the people govern themselves, without doubt the prevailing spirit may be best learnt from the institutions for public education. There are also at Boston, besides various private and two public schools, a Latin and a mathematical school, called high schools, which are both maintained at the expense of the city; boys of every class are admitted without paying for their tuition.6 Well-informed young men, who received good salaries, are selected as teachers. The first teacher of the high school receives yearly two thousand five hundred dollars. The study of the ancient languages, the Latin and Greek, forms the basis of public instruction. At the same time that these are taught, the attention, acuteness, and memory of the pupils, are variously exercised; if, for example, any one recites a line of the Eneid, and repeats the last letter, another immediately arises, and repeats from the same poem a line, beginning with this letter. The pupils do this with wonderful rapidity. The declamations took place during our presence. One of the scholars recited the speech of an English member of parliament, with so warm and correct a delivery, that the speech could scarcely have been better spoken in parliament. Another recited an oration, in which the advantages of a moderate above a despotic government, were also exhibited in a very good and distinct manner. Every evening the place of each scholar in the class for the next day, is appointed by the teacher, according to the industry which he may have shown during the day, and entered into a book. At the end of the month judgments are passed on all the pupils according to this list.

The mathematical and physical sciences are taught in the high school; it possesses a very good philosophical cabinet. We heard one class examined in arithmetic, and another in analytic geometry. In the former I saw that much attention was paid to mental calculation, and was surprised at the quick and correct solutions of difficult arithmetical questions. In the higher class the teacher proposed a question, and all those immediately arose who thought they could answer it. One was designated by the teacher to solve it, and if another thought the answer not exactly correct, he raised his hand, without interrupting the first, and corrected him when called upon. I was pleased both with the kind manners of the teachers, and the modest, correct, and easy deportment of the scholars. The boys generally had handsome faces, and were all of an animated physiognomy. With this they combine, as I was frequently convinced, the greatest respect for their parents and teachers. It appears to me impossible that young people, who receive so liberal an education, can grow up to be bad or malicious men. I was indeed affected when I left the schools, and could not but congratulate Mr. Quincy from the bottom of my heart, on such a rising generation! Captain Ryk, who accompanied us, participated in my views and feelings.

From the schools we went to the state-house or capitol, of the exterior of which I have already spoken, but the interior arrangement I had not yet seen. Besides the offices belonging to the state government, it contains the assembly rooms of the three bodies which govern the state, the council of the governor, the senate, and the representatives. These rooms are spacious; still, however, it is evident, that thirty-seven years ago, when this building was erected, every thing was done in haste, and that architecture had not then made the progress which it since has. All the steps are of wood. A trophy is erected in one of the chambers, composed of Brunswick arms, which were taken at the battle of Saratoga. One hundred and sixty-eight steps lead to the lantern of the cupola, which is of wood, and covered with copper. Notwithstanding the excessive heat, we went up, and our labour was richly recompensed by a splendid prospect. The dome is the highest point in the vicinity, and affords a view not only of the whole city and the bay, but also of a great extent of ground beyond, in every part of which a number of neat dwellings may be observed.

Thus passed almost fourteen days, in an uncommonly pleasing and instructive manner. In general my state of health allowed me to enjoy every new and interesting object with serenity of mind; I was indisposed but two days, and this was probably owing to the excessive heat. Even the intermediate hours, which could not be dedicated to the inspection of public institutions, generally afforded instructive amusements. I passed the morning in reading and writing, then received or paid visits, and at all times met with attention, courteousness, and kindness. I visited the churches on the Sundays I passed in Boston, which are still more quietly kept in America than in England. The first time I went to a Unitarian church, attended by a son of the mayor; a second time I went to an Episcopalian church, accompanied by Mr. Lloyd, a very distinguished man, and senator of the United States. I dined twice at the inn, but generally accepted some friendly invitation, and passed all my evenings very agreeably in company at musical parties and other entertainments. I also made some excursions into the country besides those already mentioned.

The society, especially when ladies are not present, is uncommonly fine and lively – both sexes are very well educated and accomplished. So much care is bestowed upon the education of the female sex, that it would perhaps be considered in other countries as superfluous. Young ladies even learn Latin and Greek, but then they also can speak of other things besides fashions and tea-table subjects; thus, for instance, I was at a party of Mrs. General Humphreys, which was entirely in the European style, without cards, dancing or music, and yet it was lively and agreeable. Thus I passed some delightful hours with Mr. Ritchie, Mr. Dixon, Mr. Homer, Mr. Otis, Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Artiguenave, a Frenchman, formerly an actor in the Théâtre Français, at Paris, and now professor of the French language at Cambridge University. Many of those gentlemen who are met with in such society, have travelled in Europe, sometimes accompanied by their ladies; Europeans are frequently present, and thus there is no want of materials for conversation. The generality of the houses, moreover, offer something attractive in the fine arts; and in returning home on an evening, the city, the bridges, and the Mill-dam are very well lighted, not indeed with gas, but with reflecting lamps, and none of that disorderly conduct is observed in the streets, which so often shocks the mind in the cities of England.

We made an excursion on the 1st of August into the country with Mr. Dixon in his dearborn. A dearborn is a very light wagon, with two benches and four wheels, drawn by one horse. We rode over the neck which unites Boston with the main land, and was fortified by the English during the revolution; then in an ascending direction towards the heights of Roxbury, where, during the blockade, the right wing of the American lines stood. The ground is very rocky, and partly covered with fir trees; the trees which formerly stood here must have been entirely removed, as not one high tree can be seen. Passing farther on we saw very handsome country houses and gardens, the former generally two stories high, and surrounded with covered colonnades. At one of these we paid a visit to the owner, Mr. Rufus Amory. A walk, shaded by oak, elm, and maple trees, leads to the dwelling on a slight elevation, which commands an extended and beautiful view of Boston and the bay. We were received by the friendly owner in an extremely obliging and hospitable manner. We rode through a romantic part of the country to Dorchester, to visit General Sumner at his country seat, but did not find him at home. We then returned by another handsome road to Boston, and passed a large rope manufactory, the works of which were moved by steam.

At another excursion to Dorchester, in company with some young men, sons of the richest inhabitants of the place, a game of ten-pins was played. It is called ten-pins, because that number of pins is here used in the game.7

Finally, I cannot omit to mention one visit, which, in company with Mr. Ritchie, I made to Mr. Coolidge, jr. Mr. Coolidge had, three months ago, married a Miss Randolph, a granddaughter of Thomas Jefferson. His wife, about thirty years old, was brought up by her grandfather in the country in his library. She is said to be so learned that Jefferson often asked her advice. She had arrived a few days previous, and made known that she would receive visiters, and we therefore found the chamber filled with people. Every one at his departure took with him a piece of wedding cake. The young ladies, as it is said, place this cake under their pillows, and then dream of their future lovers.

CHAPTER V

Journey from Boston to Albany, by way of Worcester and Northampton. – Sojourn there, from the 8th to the 14th of August, 1825

Accompanied by Mr. Tromp, who had become endeared to me by his knowledge, his modest, honourable, and amiable deportment, I left Boston on the 9th of August, for Worcester, distant forty miles. The mail-coach, like the diligence stage, consists of a long calash with three benches, each capable of containing three persons. The top is fixed, though the curtains can be rolled up, so that a person may enjoy the fresh air and the prospect of the surrounding country, without being exposed to the sun.

We left the hospitable city of Boston with grateful hearts, and rode over the Mill-dam into the interior of the country. The horses were changed four times, generally in small villages; Farmingham and Westborough appeared to be the only ones of any importance. The country sometimes seemed wild, and but thinly settled, though the state of Massachusetts is said to be the most populous in North America. We saw no grain,8 though in some places we observed Indian corn, and now and then some millet. Apple orchards were abundant – the trees hung so full of fruit that many of the boughs were broken. The apples are small and yellow, and are employed in preparing the favourite beverage called cider. We gradually approached forests, consisting of oak, chesnut, and elm trees. Sumach also occurs in some places, the bark of which is said to be excellent for tanning leather. There are evidently no forest regulations here, and the timber is very much neglected. The road was for the greatest part a good turnpike, and made in the German manner. We crossed several small rivers and rivulets on wooden bridges, which are very slight, though they are built with a great waste of timber. The planks are not even nailed upon the beams, so that I began to be somewhat fearful, especially as the carriage drove rapidly over. About two miles from Worcester we crossed a lake called Guansiganog-pond, on a wooden bridge one-fourth of a mile in length. The banks of this lake are covered with wood, and present a very handsome appearance. On our way, we were overtaken by a considerable thunder-storm, which settled the dust, and procured us a pleasant evening. We arrived at Worcester about 7 o’clock, and alighted at an excellent tavern. This town contains about four thousand inhabitants, and consists of a principal street, with an avenue shaded with old elm trees, and of several bye-streets, which, like the preceding, are altogether unpaved. The houses, generally built of wood, and but few of brick, are all surrounded with gardens, and stand at a considerable distance from each other, so that the town appears like a village. It has four churches, a bank, and three printing-offices, each of which furnishes a newspaper. There are also printing-offices in many of the villages through which we passed, as well as a fire-engine in each. In the evening we paid a visit to the governor of Massachusetts, Mr. Levi Lincoln, who resides at this place. We found this worthy man, who is universally esteemed by his fellow-citizens, at home with his wife and sister-in-law, and were received by him in the most friendly manner. We spent a very agreeable evening in his company. A proof of the public esteem which he enjoys, is, that at the last election, there was not a single vote against him, an example almost unparalleled in the United States. The governor is styled “his excellency.” On the following morning the governor conducted us to a recently established museum, which is designed chiefly for the collection of American antiquities. It is yet in its infancy, and contains but few interesting specimens; the library also is of small extent, notwithstanding we must render full justice to the inhabitants for their laudable zeal in the cause of natural science. We rode around the town in company with the governor, passed the court-house and prison, which unfortunately we had not time to visit, and returned to our inn. The gardens we passed had rather a wild appearance. They cultivate kitchen vegetables, a few watermelons, and fruit; we saw no flowers excepting the sunflower.

At 10 o’clock we departed in the Worcester stage for Northampton, distant forty-seven miles. Our company in the stage-coach consisted of two gentlemen and ladies from the state of Mississippi, who had undertaken a tour to the northern states on account of the unhealthy climate in their own country, and who entertained us very agreeably with an account of their estates. The road was worse than yesterday, sometimes sandy, and the horses generally bad, so that on the whole, our progress was slow. The country is less populous, as well as less cultivated, though there is more timber, which, however, is also very much neglected. We observed the cypress and a few large cedars. As there are no grazing laws in force, they are obliged on account of the cattle, and particularly on account of the sheep which graze in these woods at large, to make fences of young chesnut trees which are split into four pieces. These fences generally consist of six rails placed upon each other, with an interspace of several inches. They are placed in an angular form, and at the point where the rails meet, they are placed one upon the other, and usually supported upon a large stone. Such a waste of timber and land is only pardonable in a country where the inhabitants are few, and where timber is abundant. A large extent of wood-land has been cleared only within a short time, and the trunks of the trees which remained have been destroyed by fire. The soil is not particularly fertile. We observed numerous blocks of granite, which may be hereafter usefully employed, the large for building, and the small upon the roads. The villages which we passed on our way are Leicester, seven, Spencer, five, Brookfield, seven, Ware, eight, Belchertown, nine, and Madley, ten miles. They are most of them small places, consisting generally of frame houses, standing at a distance from each other, which are very neat and comfortable; each village has a frame church and a school-house. Stores are observed in most of these places, and in Belchertown there is even a fashionable one. The churches are usually provided with long sheds, in which the carriages and horses of the members of the church are protected from the heat and weather during the service. Ware, situated on the river of the same name, which is crossed by a wooden bridge rather better built than usual, was laid out about three years since; it is a neat, flourishing place, and belongs to the Dexter family in Boston, who have established a woollen and cotton manufactory here, the workmen of which, above three hundred in number, form the inhabitants of the place. Mr. Dexter, of Boston, had entrusted me with an important packet of papers for his brother, who resides in Ware, which I delivered in person. We found Mr. Dexter with his beautiful wife, at his neat and well arranged cottage, situated in the centre of a garden, and received a friendly welcome. From his window he can overlook the whole village and manufactories. Heretofore, said Mr. Dexter, I have received the greatest part of my wool from Saxony, which is preferred here to the Spanish; but at present, we have sheep imported from Saxony, which are permitted to roam at large through the wood, as there are no wild animals in Massachusetts to destroy them; they yield a very superior kind of wool. Unfortunately we were not at leisure to accept of Mr. Dexter’s invitation to look at his establishments. At the tavern, which was perfectly clean and comfortable, we obtained a very good dinner, and continued our journey. The inhabitants of Ware are said to be distinguished for their strict morality. They have a common school, to which they are obliged by law to send their children, as is the case throughout Massachusetts, or pay a fine. In Ware there is but one physician, who has a handsome house, and keeps a well furnished apothecary store. The strict republicans are jealous of the large manufacturing establishments, because they are afraid that individual citizens, in consequence of their property, may have too great an influence upon a large mass of people; but I imagine that the republic has nothing to fear on this head, since the effect of individual influence is counterbalanced by the promotion of the welfare of the poorer classes.