The Book of Bulbs

The following like a moist peaty soil, although some can be grown without this, but it is safer to study their likings: – canadense with its varieties; carniolicum; Grayii; maritimum; pardalinum, with its varieties californicum, Bourgæi, Johnsoni, minor, and Michauxii; Parryi; parvum; philadelphicum; Roezlii; and superbum.

In planting Lilies, they should have the crowns from four to six inches below the surface, and should be surrounded with some sharp sand. In heavy soil it is desirable to plant the bulbs on their sides.

Lilies in Pots

Lilies make beautiful pot plants, and in pots their cultivation is very simple. Fibrous loam, peat, and a little decayed manure and sand will grow them well. It is a good practice not to cover the bulbs too deeply at first, and to add soil afterwards as growth is made and roots formed at the base of the stems. Watering must be carefully applied, so as to give enough without souring the soil. Plunge the pots in frames, and bring them in when growth is so far completed, or place outside in sheltered positions until they show flower. Repotting is best done as soon as the stems are quite withered.

Malvastrum Gilliesii

This is a very pretty little trailing rock garden plant, with tuberous roots, and only a few inches high. It likes a sunny place, but must not suffer from drought in summer. The flowers are of a bright crimson-purple. It is hardy in a sheltered rockery.

Merenderas

The Merenderas are closely related to the Colchicums, and are amenable to similar treatment. The species grown in gardens are M. Bulbocodium, four inches, lilac, blooming in autumn; caucasica, blooming in May, and having rosy flowers; and persica, which flowers in late autumn and has pale lilac blooms.

Milla

The Millas are pretty bulbous plants, but the only one worth growing as a hardy bulb is M. uniflora, often called Triteleia uniflora, which has white flowers, shaded with blue, in spring. The form violacea has porcelain-blue flowers striped with a deeper blue. The Milla can be grown in the border or rock-garden, but it likes the edge of a gravel path, where it will soon establish itself. Plant in early autumn with the crown about two inches deep.

Narcissi

It is impossible to treat properly of the Narcissus in the space available in a work of this character, but as it is proposed to publish a volume devoted entirely to this charming flower, it will be sufficient to give a chapter dealing generally with the flower and its ways.

Generally speaking, the cultivation of the Narcissus out of doors is without difficulty, if we can give it a free, loamy soil, and a pure air. The exceptions are few, except that there are some species which are troublesome, and apparently resent being grown in cultivated ground, and die off there. Some of these will thrive on grass or on rockwork, while they die in the border. The white trumpet Narcissi are among the most troublesome in this respect, and some find it necessary to plant them on grassy banks facing the north. This is not desirable in the north, and it will be well to try various positions before finally giving up the cultivation of the fascinatingly beautiful white trumpet Narcissi. The Hoop-petticoat Narcissi, as the forms of N. Corbularia are called, are difficult to establish. Those who wish to attempt them may begin first with citrina, the sulphur one. Many find them thrive best planted where the roots can reach water, such as in light, peaty soil, above a milk pan sunk in the soil. The writer has, however, frequently seen plants established in the border or rock-garden. Triandrus albus, the exquisite "Angel's Tears," is troublesome to establish also. It ought to be planted in a crevice of the rockery in gravel, sand, and peat. The form Triandrus pulchellus, although scarce, is a much better grower. The beautiful little N. moschatus, of Haworth, is difficult to grow except on grass; and others which thrive better thus planted than in the ordinary border are named by Messrs Barr. Their list may be safely followed, although one's experience of several is that they grow quite well in a border; much, however, depending upon the character of the soil and how it is drained. The varieties are: – Achilles, Countess of Annesley, Spurius, Thomas Moore, Pseudo-narcissus, the English Lent Lily, variiformis, and pallidus præcox. Few of the Tazetta Narcissi are suitable for outdoor culture, although in the milder districts of England and Ireland they may be grown in the open.

As the Narcissus prefers a soil without animal manure within reach of its roots, it is better to cultivate it in land manured for a previous crop, or to add artificial fertilisers, than cow or horse manure. Experienced growers prefer a small quantity of basic slag or bone meal. In light soils a sprinkling of sulphate of potash is applied annually in autumn.

Planting is best done early in autumn, September being a good month, but the varieties of N. poeticus should be in earlier if possible. Occasional lifting and replanting is advisable.

Narcissi in Pots

In cultivating the Narcissus in pots or boxes a somewhat similar method may be adopted as in the case of Hyacinths in pots, but they will generally stand more forcing. The Tazetta, or Bunch-flowered Narcissi, such as Paper White, are largely used, and can be had very early in bloom.

CHAPTER X

HARDY BULBS

Ornithogalums – Oxalises – Pæonias – Ranunculuses – Romuleas – Sanguinarias – Sternbergias – Schizostylis – Tecophilæas – TrilliumsOrnithogalums

The Ornithogalums, or Stars of Bethlehem, are not general favourites in gardens, because of their seeding propensities, which make them difficult to keep within bounds. Several are very pleasing and deserve some attention, because of their white and green flowers. Umbellatum, the common species, is only suitable for the wild-garden, but the little tenuifolium is pretty, as also are fimbriatum and montanum. Nutans is pretty also, but increases too rapidly. Pyramidale is a fine plant about two feet high. They like a sandy soil and to be planted about two inches deep. None of the yellow Ornithogalums are hardy.

Oxalises

The Oxalises, or Wood Sorrels, are bright little plants, although their value is reduced by their flowers only opening in sun. There is a pretty lilac variety of O. Acetosella, our common Wood Sorrel, and Bowiei and floribunda, with rose flowers, are quite hardy in light soil. Lobata, a beautiful little yellow species, flowering in October, is also hardy, as well as the exquisite white enneaphylla. Tetraphylla, lasiandra, l. alba, and violacea may also be tried with every prospect of success. Give a sunny position in light soil, and if planted in autumn cover slightly the first winter.

Pæonias

The herbaceous Pæonias, which are such brilliant ornaments of our gardens in May and June, would require more space to do them justice than we can command. They like a rich, well-manured soil, inclining to heaviness and thoroughly trenched before planting in early autumn. After the plants are in position mulch the ground with rotten manure, and when growth is being made in summer give liberal applications of manure water to induce free growth. The crowns should be a little below the surface, and plant if possible where the sun does not reach them until a little before noon. The list of superior varieties is extremely extensive, and those thinking of purchasing Pæonias should either select the plants while they are in bloom, or from the catalogues of dealers who grow these flowers largely. The single forms are very beautiful also, though they hardly keep so long in bloom. Many of the species are also attractive plants, and where there is sufficient space a selection of these should be made and grown. The common Peony of old gardens is P. officinalis.

Ranunculuses

At one time a favourite florist's flower, the Ranunculus has fallen greatly out of favour, and there are now few named sorts grown. It is, however, well worth growing for its beauty as a garden flower and also for cutting. A bowl of pure white Ranunculi with the foliage of Heuchera Richardsoni, or some other dark-leaved plant, is a charming thing, and many equal beautiful effects can easily be produced. The florist's Ranunculus was derived from R. asiaticus, and there are flowers of almost all colours among the double varieties which have been raised. A good strain of mixed Ranunculuses will produce many good flowers at a small expense. The principal forms now grown are the Turban or Turkish and the Persian, which are varied in their colours. Those named R. asiaticus superbus are large and showy, if a little coarse to those accustomed to the more refined flowers of the others. They can be grown in an ordinary border well manured, and can be planted from October to February. In planting choose a dry day, and keep the crowns two inches below the surface. Care must be taken to keep the crown up, and to cover this with a little sand after planting. Cover with some litter in winter, and water freely when coming into bloom. Lift when the foliage becomes yellow, and dry off in a cool and airy place, storing the tubers in dry sand.

There are a few other tuberous-rooted species of Ranunculus worth growing in the garden. Of these the best are the double form of the native R. bulbosa which has yellow flowers; R. chærophyllus, yellow; R. monspeliacus, yellow; and R. millefoliatus grandiflorus, the same colour. These are easily grown in the border in ordinary soil.

Romuleas

Romuleas are remarkably pretty little bulbs with Crocus-like flowers, from March to July, and grassy leaves. They require warm, sunny spots on rockwork, and in cold localities should be grown in a frame. They like sandy soil. Among the best and hardiest are R. Bulbocodium, with blue and yellow flowers. The variety pylium is even prettier. Columnæ is pretty with its white flowers. Clusii, lavender, and speciosa, rosy violet, are both pretty. Plant in autumn two inches deep, and protect in winter.

Sanguinarias

S. canadensis, the only species, is a pretty little plant, known as the Bloodroot, Red Puccoon, or Red Indian Paint, and perfectly hardy. It has white flowers with a yellow centre in April, and the leaves are not fully developed until after the flowers. It likes a rich moist soil, but can be grown in the border. The best form is grandiflora, and the one called multipetala has many narrow petals. There is said to be a pinkish form.

Sternbergias

The Sternbergias are handsome autumn flowers with blooms like a glorified yellow Crocus, which appear before the leaves. The best for the open air is S. lutea angustifolia, a narrow-leaved variety of the common lutea. Others of much beauty are fischeriana and macrantha, the latter having very large flowers. In order to make them flower they need a dry, sunny position in soil with limestone or lime rubbish. They should be planted in summer about two inches deep.

Schizostylis coccinea

The Kaffir Lily is a valuable late blooming plant in a warm, sunny border, where it blooms in autumn, when its bright scarlet flowers in long spikes are much appreciated. Although it likes a warm position, it must not suffer from drought in its growing period. Plant in spring about three inches deep. It makes a good pot plant for a cool house.

Tecophilæas

The beautiful little Tecophilæas are quite hardy in light soils, but are, because of their scarcity, usually grown in frames or in pots in greenhouses. They have pretty Crocus-like flowers of blue and white, and should be planted in rich, light soil in a sunny position, well-sheltered from wind, or in a frame. Slugs are very partial to them, and must be carefully guarded against. The leading species are cyano-crocus and violæflora.

Trilliums

The Trilliums, or Trinity Flowers, are very ornamental plants, and are so distinct in form that they please everyone. They like shade and a moist peaty soil. Grandiflorum is a general favourite, with its large flowers of pure white. There is also a rose-coloured form named grandiflorum roseum. Even finer than grandiflorum is sessile var. californicum, which is considerably taller, and has fine white flowers, those of the typical sessile being purple. Cernuum, erectum, erectum album, nivale, petiolatum, recurvatum, and stylosum are all pretty, the last being the latest to bloom, and well worth growing. Plant in autumn or spring, with the crown one or two inches below the surface of the soil.

CHAPTER XI

HARDY BULBS

Tulips – ZephyranthesTulips

It is a matter for regret that the true beauty of the Tulip has been so long obscured by the manner of its planting in stiff lines or beds, where the flowers stood in almost regimental array, with little but their own foliage to tone down the superfluous brilliancy of the mass of colour. It is emphatically a flower which requires association with other plants to show its true value. Grown in bold clumps in the mixed border, or in irregular groups among the rougher grass, it gives a much better effect. Individually, the Tulips are very beautiful, and their value in pots is of a high degree. Of course those who grow the English florist's Tulip ought to continue to grow them in beds and in lines, so that they can be protected from frost and shaded readily from strong sunshine. For ordinary gardens, however, an informal grouping will be the most satisfactory and pleasing. The species are very varied in their character, and many of the dwarfer are delightful rock-garden plants. A good, loamy soil is suitable for all classes of Tulips, but where it is heavy a little coarse sand may be placed about the bulb. It is well to plant comparatively early, from the beginning of October to the end of November being the most suitable time. In gardens subject to late frosts, it is better to plant in November than in the earlier month. Three or four inches is the depth generally recommended, but on light soil an additional inch may be given. Six inches apart is a good distance at which to plant the bulbs for ordinary effect. The English florist's Tulip ought to have a good loamy soil, the bulbs being planted three inches deep and four apart in lines. The end of October to the middle of November is the best time, but the bulbs should never be planted unless the soil is in a good working condition. Some litter should be put over the beds in severe frosts, and an awning erected over them at the blooming-time to preserve the flowers from rain and strong sun. There are a number of details connected with the florist's Tulip and its cultivation which cannot be given in the space of this work, but Mr Bentley's little pamphlet, entitled "The English Tulip," will give all necessary information not to be found here. The florist's Tulip can be grown in a border, but its effect there is not so good as that of some of the self-coloured flowers.

The early Tulips are the most prized for pot-culture, but the others may be used also, although not generally so amenable to forcing. They should be planted at the rate of from three to five bulbs in a five-inch pot, according to the size of the bulbs. After planting, the pots should be plunged in ashes or cocoa-fibre until they have made root-growth, when they may be brought in as required and subjected to gentle forcing. Watering must be carefully attended to at this time. When a number of flowers are required for jardinettes, etc., the Tulips may be grown closely together in boxes. When they show colour, they may be lifted with roots intact, and planted in moss in the receptacles in which they are required.

The most valuable Tulips for early work are the early Dutch varieties, many of which are very beautiful and embrace much variety of colour. The varieties of Duc Van Thol and Pottebakker are largely used for early bloom, but other good varieties are Bacchus, Canary Bird, Keizerskroon, Mon Tresor, and Proserpine. Following these are the popular Artus, Cottage Maid, Crimson King, and many others. As, however, almost all the bulb-dealers give the blooming periods in their lists, it would only take up space unnecessarily to detail them. A special selection of the best for pot work or for forcing would include such varieties as the Duc Van Thols, Couleur de Cardinal, Globe de Rigaut, Keizerskroon, the Pottebakkers, Royal Standard, and Samson, all reliable bloomers where they are properly cultivated.

Double Tulips last a little longer in bloom, but they do not lend themselves so well to the decoration of the garden, and many people do not care for their rather heavy-looking blooms. Good varieties for pots and forcing are Artus, Brutus, Duchess of Parma, Proserpine, Rose tendre, Thomas Moore, and Van der Neer. For bedding there are Cramoisie superbe, La Candeur, Murillo, Rex Rubrorum, and Titian, besides a number more. Variegated leaved Tulips are pretty in beds, even before the blooming time, but they are not much grown in this country.

The "Cottage Garden" Tulips grow yearly in favour, and they deserve it because of their beauty and their general hardiness, which enables the greater number to be permanent border flowers. There are a great many of much beauty, and a brief selection is necessarily incomplete. It includes the curious acuminata, Didieri, elegans, Faerie Queen, flava, Gala Beauty, gesneriana, Golden Beauty, Golden Crown, ixioides, macrospila, maculata, Picotee, retroflexa, sylvestris major, vitellina, and York and Lancaster.

The beautiful species of wild Tulips give much variety, and among the desirable plants may be named Batalini, biflora, clusiana, Greigi, kolpakowskiana, Korolkowi bicolor, Leichtlini, linifolia, ostrowskyana, persica, præcox, Sprengeri, and violacea. Many of these are capital for the rock-garden.

The Parrot Tulips are also showy in the rock-garden or for hanging baskets, where the large, fantastic flowers droop over and look very curious with their strange colouring and laciniated petals. They are rather unreliable bloomers.

The Darwin Tulips are very effective and beautiful flowers. They belong to the breeder class of the florist's Tulips, but are of a strain with more brilliant self-colours than the ordinary breeders. They are good growers, and promise to do well as border flowers.

The English florist's Tulip, while very fascinating in its way, is not of so much value for the garden as the self-coloured forms, and there are a good many details to be followed by those who wish to cultivate it as it deserves. These will be found in Mr Bentley's work, already mentioned. These English Tulips are divided into three classes with rectified or variegated blooms, as well as another, which consists of what are known as "Breeders," which, like the others, have a stainless base, but have not developed the markings of the other classes. Bizarres have a yellow ground and yellow base, of various shades, with orange, scarlet, crimson, black, or brown markings on the ground; Byblœmens have a white base and ground, the latter being marked with black, violet, purple, and lilac to lavender; while the Roses, which have a white base and ground, have the markings of pink, rose, scarlet or crimson.

Zephyranthes

Zephyranthes, or Amaryllis Candida is the only really hardy member of this genus in British gardens which are not specially favoured with a mild climate, and it will seldom prove a permanent success unless planted in dry soil in front of a greenhouse or stove and exposed to the sun. It has beautiful white flowers in autumn, and should be planted about three inches deep in spring.

CHAPTER XII

HALF-HARDY BULBS

Acidantheras – Albucas – Alstrœmerias – Androstephiums – Besseras – Boussingaultias – Bravoas – Cypellas – Dahlias – Galaxias – Geissorhizas and HesperanthasAcidantheras

The only species of Acidanthera which has been introduced hardy enough to be classed with half-hardy bulbs is A. bicolor, a pretty plant with spikes of whitish flowers with the lower segments spotted purple. It may be grown outside in a warm border if treated like a half-hardy Gladiolus, or better, under glass as recommended for the Ixia.

Albucas

Only a few of the Albucas, which come near to the Ornithogalums, deserve cultivation; these can be grown outside in warm districts alone, on a raised bed of rather light soil, in a sunny position, protected in winter by a layer of litter. They are, however, better in the greenhouse or frame. Aurea, yellow; fastigiata, white; and Nelsoni, white, are the best in cultivation. They bloom in summer, and may be planted three inches deep in autumn.

Alstrœmerias

Apart from the hardier Alstrœmerias, which may also advantageously be grown in frames or in cold greenhouses, there are several others which are pleasing occupants of frames and cool greenhouses, from which severe frosts are excluded. The least hardy of all is A. caryophyllæa, which should always have a little heat, and does best in a warm greenhouse or stove. Eminently suitable for the frame or the greenhouse without heat are the charming pelegrina, white or yellow, striped with rose, and with a yellow spot on its segments; and its white variety, alba, a lovely thing. Then there are Errembaultii, a pretty hybrid, white, spotted purple; pulchra, purple, white, and yellow, with red spots, and brasiliensis, with its reddish yellow flowers spotted with brown. At one time these were more grown, and a renewed demand would bring many other species into cultivation. A light rich soil is suitable for all, with plenty of water while growing but very little afterwards.

Androstephiums

These are pretty bulbous plants resembling the Brodiæas, and hardy if planted six or seven inches deep, but better grown in a frame. They like a sunny position and a light soil. The species are breviflorum and violaceum.

Besseras

Few people know the Bessera, which is a pretty little bulbous plant from Mexico, bearing some resemblance to the Scillas, but having bright scarlet or scarlet and white flowers. It grows from one and a half to two feet high, and may be treated similarly to the Babianas. It is one of the many half-hardy bulbs which might be more widely cultivated with advantage.

Boussingaultias

B. baselloides is a rather pretty trailing plant which gives clusters of white flowers in late autumn. In a few districts it is hardy, but it ought usually to have the protection of a frame in winter, or to have its tuberous roots stored in sand until spring, when it may be planted about three inches deep. It likes a rich, but light soil.

Bravoas

Bravoa geminiflora, the only one of the three species in cultivation, is hardy in warm places in the south, but for most gardens its proper treatment is that of a frame bulb. It has beautiful orange-red, drooping flowers in July, on stems from one and a half to two feet high. It likes a light, sandy soil, and may be planted about three inches deep in autumn.

Cypellas

These are pretty plants allied to the Iris, and well suited for growing in pots in the greenhouse as well as for frame cultivation. They may also be planted out in spring, and lifted in autumn and potted. They like a light, sandy soil, and may be planted two inches deep in pots, or three inches if in a frame. In the latter it is well to give them a little covering in frosty weather. They may be raised from seeds or increased by offsets. Cypellas grow from one to three feet high. The most desirable are Herberti, yellow; peruviana, yellow, spotted red-brown; and plumbea (syn. Pohlia platensis), lead-coloured, with a tinge of yellow in the centre.

Dahlias

The Dahlia is too extensive a subject to permit of its being fully considered in the limits of this work, but, without entering upon particulars regarding the various sections and varieties of the flower, it may be helpful to give a few broad cultural details for the benefit of those who grow the flower to a limited extent. It is a plant which must have generous treatment, and to give this it is essential that the ground should be deeply prepared by digging, and thoroughly manured with well-decayed manure. The plants may be put out as soon as danger from severe frost is past, and they should be allowed plenty of room. For exhibition purposes from five to six feet apart will be found a suitable distance. The plants should be staked immediately, and covered at nights when there is a prospect of a cold night occurring. Pots filled with moss or hay may be placed on the top of the stakes and examined regularly for earwigs. When the plants begin to make growth, the soil ought to be well mulched with half-rotted manure. Watering should never be neglected, and as the plants grow they must be properly tied to the stakes. Thinning and disbudding are necessary to secure the largest possible blooms for exhibition flowers. These may also require to be shaded and protected from bad weather. When the plants are destroyed by frost in autumn, they may be cut down to within six inches of the surface of the soil, and, after leaving them in the ground for a few days, lifted and stored out of the reach of frost. Dahlias are propagated by seeds, division of the tubers, and by cuttings, the two last being the only way of propagating named varieties. Seeds are sown in pans or pots in March under glass. When the young plants can be handled, prick them out into small pots and grow under glass until large enough to plant out in the beds. Old tubers may be divided if a portion of the crown with an eye or bud is attached to each piece. These must be put into small pots and grown on for a short time. Cuttings are easily struck from February to August. In spring the old tubers are placed in heat with the crowns above the soil, and the shoots taken off when about three inches long, and struck in heat in single pots of light soil. Cuttings taken off in summer and rooted in small pots, form good "pot roots" for planting out in spring.