A Voyage Round the World, from 1806 to 1812

A number of sunk rocks lie about half a mile to the south of this place, with an intricate and narrow channel, through which we were piloted by the overseer, who came out to meet us in a bidarka.

After remaining here three days, we sailed again on the 13th, having met with the same hospitable treatment we had uniformly experienced from these islanders. They liberally supplied us with berries and oil, bear’s flesh, and dried salmon. Soon after leaving Schutcum, we doubled a bluff head, and opened up a strait12 that separates Kodiak from the main land; a short way beyond it passed a narrow entrance leading into a spacious bay or inlet; the pilot told us that it stretched twenty or thirty versts13 into the country, and afforded an excellent shelter for ships. We then stood over to Kodiak, which we reached in the evening; the wind W. S. W. with fine weather; we run along shore during the night. Next day, about two o’clock, we passed near a rock, on which several outches, or sea-lions, were sitting; some of them swam towards us, uttering loud yells; but as the boat was going at a great rate through the water, we soon lost sight of them.

Soon after, whilst crossing a deep bay, the wind checked round to the northwest, and blew so hard at times as to oblige us to take in all our sails. We endeavored to run under the west point of the bay, where there seemed to be good shelter; but we fell to leeward, and were under apprehensions that we should not be able to weather the point that formed its eastern extremity. Mr. Bertram proposed to run the boat ashore, but the surf was so heavy, that the attempt would have been extremely hazardous. I was of opinion that we might weather the point by carrying sail, and he allowed me to take the helm. Having set our close-reefed mainsail and storm-jib, the whole crew, except myself, went below, and lay as much as possible to the weather side, by which means the boat was enabled to carry sail till we cleared the head. After this we had the wind upon our quarter, and the evening proving fine, we made great progress.

The channel or strait, which separates Kodiak from the continent, is about fifteen leagues in breadth, and as far as I could judge, is free from danger, except close in shore.

We entered by moonlight the strait between Kodiak and several smaller islands to the east, with a strong tide in our favor, and were clear of it before daylight.

Being in want of water, we landed early in the morning, and having kindled a fire, had a warm breakfast before embarking. – The country here was well wooded with pines, but we saw no inhabitants. We made sail about eleven, and entered the harbour of Alexandria before dark. We hoisted a Russian jack which we had on board, upon which a Baiderai came off and towed us in. There were two ships and a brig at anchor in the bay.

Alexandria is the principal Russian settlement in the Fox islands, and the residence of the governor, upon whom we waited immediately upon our landing, with our letters from Mr. Bander.

He gave each of us a tumbler of brandy, and sent us to the cazerne, or barracks, where the Russian convicts lodged.

The brig which lay in the harbour was ordered to be fitted out for Sannack, for the purpose of taking in that part of the cargo of the Eclipse which had been saved from the wreck. As it would take a considerable time before she could be got ready, the governor ordered us to return in the boat with the carpenters and tools required for our vessel, that no time might be lost.

We remained here three weeks, and during that time we were employed in preparations for our return. The boards we had nailed on the boat’s bottom were stripped off, and she was thoroughly repaired by the Russian carpenters. A camboose for our fire was made, by sawing a cask in two, and filling it with gravel, and secured by lashing it to the mast. We also provided ourselves with a compass, the want of which we had experienced in our voyage thither, our view of the land having been almost constantly intercepted by fogs and snow showers.

Mr. Baranoff, the governor, gave us a chart of the Fox islands and adjoining continent; and furnished us with letters, in case we should find it necessary to touch at any of the Russian settlements; he also sent three carpenters to assist in the construction of our vessel.

By the 8th of January 1808, every thing was completed, and we had laid in a good stock of provisions, consisting of salted pork and bear’s flesh, two skin bags of rusk, two casks of water, and a keg of rum, with preserved berries, and blubber for the Indians.

CHAPTER V

Departure from Alexandria – Boat forced into a bay by the weather, and hauled on shore – Obliged, by want of provisions, to leave the bay – A snow storm – The boat springs aleak – Is run on shore, and goes to pieces upon the rocks – A hut discovered, in which the crew pass the night.

We quitted the harbour of Alexandria on the morning of the 9th of January, (O. S.)14 on our voyage back to Halibut island.

With a fine breeze of southerly wind we coasted along the northeast shore of Kodiak, leaving on our right a cluster of islands which lie to the eastward. Upon the largest, which is called Afognac, I was informed there are several Russian settlements.

This is the finest part of the island I have seen, the country being covered with wood, chiefly of the pine tribe, and many of the trees of great size. The other islands are also well wooded.

In the evening the wind died away, and the tide turned against us when nearly half way through the straits. We anchored for the night in a cove on the larboard side.

Next morning at daylight, we weighed, with a strong breeze from the east, which soon carried us clear of the strait. Upon reaching the open sea, we shaped our course to the northwest.

The headland or cape, which forms the extremity on the starboard hand, is perfectly level on the summit for nearly a mile, and terminates in a lofty perpendicular cliff.

On the following day the wind changed to the northwest, and blew hard, with a heavy sea; as it was directly against us, with every appearance of a gale coming on, we were obliged to bear away for a harbour. At noon, we reached a well sheltered bay, on the northern side of Kodiak. From the threatening appearance of the weather, it was judged prudent to haul the boat on shore; and there being no habitations within reach, we were under the necessity of living on board.

The bay was surrounded by high mountains, with a rocky shore, except at our landing place, where there was a small extent of sandy beach. The whole country was at this time, many feet deep with snow, which prevented us from making any distant excursions. At this place we were forced by the weather to remain ten days.

The dread of famine at last obliged us to put to sea, although the state of the weather was by no means favourable for the prosecution of our voyage. The surrounding country produced no food of any kind, and our stock of provisions was nearly expended. We left the bay, in hopes of reaching a settlement called Karlouski, which lay at no great distance to the west.

We launched the boat on the morning of the 21st, and stood over towards the main land. When about mid-channel, we discovered that the boat had sprung a leak; at the same time a heavy fall of snow came on, accompanied with violent squalls. The leak gained so much upon us, that it became absolutely necessary to run for the nearest shore. – Had the day been clear, we might have got back to the harbour we had quitted in the morning; but the snow rendered it so dark that we could scarcely see a boat’s length ahead; we had therefore no resource but to put before the wind, and trust our lives to Providence.

The first view we had of the shore was most alarming; we were completely embayed, with a heavy surf breaking amongst the rocks, whilst, at the same time, the violence of the gale, and the state of the boat, were such as to preclude any hopes of working out of the bay. We therefore turned the bow to that part of the shore which seemed clearest of rocks, and a sea carried us so far up, that when it retired, we were left almost dry; the next wave carried us a little further, upon which the second mate imprudently let go the anchor; when it retired we all jumped out, and reached the shore in safety. Upon the return of the swell, the boat swung round, with her head to the sea, and being prevented by the anchor from driving farther up, she almost immediately went to pieces upon the rocks.

That part of the island on which we were cast was quite barren, and many miles distant from the nearest settlement, the path to which lay across mountains covered with snow.

After collecting what we could save of the wreck of the boat, we set out in search of some place to shelter us for the night, and fortunately discovered, at no great distance, one of those huts that are constructed for the use of the fox and bear hunters. It was too small to admit of a fire in the inside; but the number of people crowded into it rendered the cold less intense; and we lighted a fire in the open air, at which we made ready our provisions.

Upon examining our remaining stock, we found, that with the utmost economy, it would not last above three or four days; it became therefore necessary to form some plan to extricate ourselves from so deplorable a situation.

The bay in which we were wrecked was surrounded with high mountains, which ran down to the shore, terminating in a steep range of rocks, or what sailors call an iron bound coast. Karlouski, the nearest settlement, lay, as we were informed by our Russian companions, at a considerable distance to the west. We deliberated whether we should attempt to reach it by crossing the mountains, or by going along shore at low water. The danger and difficulty of making our journey over the snow deterred us from adopting the first plan: we therefore fixed on the latter, and determined to set out on our journey next morning.

CHAPTER VI

A party quit the hut in search of a settlement – Author’s feet frost-bitten – Progress of the party interrupted by a mountain – Return towards the hut, till prevented by the tide from passing a reef of rocks – Pass the night in a valley – Next morning set off at low water – Author falls behind, and in attempting to climb over a rock, gets his hands frost-bitten – Critical situation – Reaches the hut – Two Russians reach a settlement by the mountains, and send relief – Some account of Karlouski – Voyage to Alexandria.

On the morning of the 22d we quitted the hut, leaving one of the Russians and our Indian pilot to take charge of what we had saved from the boat.

Having proceeded some distance, we were interrupted by a reef of rocks, over which it was necessary to wade. I was provided with strong seal-skin boots, but unfortunately in crossing they were filled with water, which, the cold being so severe, the exercise of walking did not prevent from freezing. In a short time I lost all feeling in my feet, but was able to keep up with my companions, till our progress along shore was completely stopped by a mountain which projected into the sea. Finding it impossible to get round the base, we attempted to climb over the summit. It was very steep, and in many places crusted with ice. I had by this time entirely lost the use of my feet, and with all my exertions, was unable to keep pace with my companions. In many places I was forced to dig steps in the ice and snow, with a pair of boots I had on my hands for that purpose. At length, after great labour and fatigue, I gained what I imagined to be the summit; it proved, however, to be little more than half way up, and the higher part of the mountain was quite inaccessible. I endeavoured to descend again; but in a short time found that the state of my feet rendered the attempt unavailing. I had no alternative but to slide down; and, therefore, throwing away the boots, and placing my hands behind me, to direct my course, I came down with such velocity, that at the foot of the hill, I sunk at least ten feet into the frozen snow. I was at first almost suffocated, till I made a little room by pressing the snow from me. I called as loud as I was able for assistance, but could not make my companions hear me, although I heard their voices perfectly well calling upon me. I at length relieved myself, by compressing the snow till it became sufficiently hard to bear my weight. I then planted my feet into it, and reached the surface.

We turned back, and endeavoured to proceed by a valley which lay behind the mountain. My feet by this time were frozen, never to recover; and I was so ill able to ascend, that I was frequently blown over by the wind, and sometimes driven a considerable way down the hill. Exhausted by these fruitless trials to keep up with the rest, I became totally unable to proceed, and was left to my fate. I laid myself down on the snow in a state of despair. Having recovered a little, I resolved to make another attempt to follow the track of my companions, but had not proceeded far when I met them coming down the hill, which had proved to be impassable.

We now set off on our return to the hut, but were soon interrupted by a steep rock, which the rising tide prevented us from passing. We had no resource, but to wait till low water next day, and to pass the night where we were. This was a most unfortunate circumstance for me, for had I reached the hut, and got my feet dried, they would in all likelihood have recovered. It blew hard, and the night was piercingly cold; we therefore returned to the valley, where there was at least some shelter from the wind.

The Russians, who knew the effects of cold, informed us that the consequences of lying down would be fatal. Although well aware of this, I was so much overcome by cold and fatigue, that I several times dropt asleep upon my feet; but my companions, who had not suffered so much, took care to arouse me.

Next morning we again set off for the hut, and met with no interruption till we came to the reef where I had got my feet wet. In consequence of the high wind, the swell was heavier than it had been the day before, and my feet were so powerless that a wave washed me completely off the reef into deep water. It was fortunately towards the shore, and on the returning wave I recovered my footing, and succeeded in getting over.

I followed my companions as well as my exhausted strength and the state of my feet would permit, but fell considerably behind, and had entirely lost sight of them, when my progress was impeded by a projecting crag, through which a natural perforation formed the only passage. The entrance was elevated a considerable way from the ground, and that part of the rock over which it was necessary to scramble, was nearly perpendicular, and almost covered with ice.

With a little assistance I could have easily got over; but situated as I was, my own exertions were of little avail. My feet were of no use in climbing, and I was obliged to drag myself up by my hands, in doing which they also were frozen. After many ineffectual attempts, I had, as I thought, gained the top; but when I had tried to lay hold of a projection in the rock, my fingers refused to perform their office, and I fell to the ground.

The tide was fast rising, and the surge already washed the spot where I stood; in a few minutes it would have been too late, and I must have perished had I been obliged to remain another tide, with my feet and hands frozen, and my whole body wet. As a last resource, I collected a few stones, which I had just strength to pile sufficiently high to enable me to get over.

This took place early in the day, and the hut was only a few miles farther on, but I was so much enfeebled that I did not reach it till dusk.

I never again walked on my feet; but, by the blessing of God, recovered the use of my hands, with the loss of only two fingers.

I was treated with great humanity upon my arrival, by the Russians, who had preserved their clothes dry in seal skin bags. They gave me a suit, and having cut off my boots, wrapped my feet and hands in flannel drawers. I was laid upon a bed of dried grass, after having satisfied my hunger with some rusk and blubber, which were the only provisions that remained.

As our stock was so low, no time was to be lost in procuring assistance; accordingly, the two who had remained set out next morning to endeavor to reach the settlement by the mountains.

On the third day after their departure our provisions were completely exhausted; but the weather had been tolerable, and we knew that if they succeeded, they would lose no time in sending us relief.

On the 27th, those who had been on the look out brought the joyful intelligence that five canoes were in sight, which proved to have been sent by our companions, who had reached the village in safety.

We quitted the hut on the 28th, in the canoes, which were baidarkas, with three seats in each. In crossing a bay we encountered a heavy sea; in order to keep me dry I was put below, and the hole in which I sat was stuffed up with the gut frock.

It was a great relief to me when we got into smoother water, for the space into which I was crammed was so small that I had nearly been suffocated. We arrived at Karlouski in the evening.

This settlement consisted of about thirty Indian families, and several Russians; the latter lived together in a cazerne, and the Indians in huts, which at this place were built of logs, wood being plenty. I was carried to the cazerne, where I was laid upon a bed of skins, and treated with the utmost attention; but as the place afforded no medical assistance, my feet and hands began to mortify, and my health was otherwise so much impaired, that I was frequently in a state of delirium.

We remained here till about the 25th of February, when we took our passage in a baiderai, or large skin-boat, bound to Alexandria, with a cargo of furs, berries, oil, and fish. – They had for provisions the salmon-roe, preserved in train oil, and kept in bladders. This is by them esteemed a delicacy, but it was too strong for my stomach.

The first night we landed at a village constructed differently from any I had hitherto seen; the whole of the houses, except the roofs, were under ground, and communicated with each other by a subterraneous passage. Bad weather, and contrary winds, detained us at this place eleven days.

We sailed again on the 7th of March. The wind being fair we hoisted a squaresail, and ran before it at a great rate. There is a group of small islands abreast of the south point of North-Island, at which place the tides meet, causing a heavy breaking sea; and as the baiderai was deeply loaded, it had a frightful appearance. The frame of the vessel was so extremely slight, that when between the waves, she was bent into a deep curve, and whilst on the top of the wave the two ends were as much depressed. I was in constant apprehension that the frame would give way. She however, went through the sea drier than a stiffer vessel would have done, and we reached the harbour of Alexandria on the 9th, without any accident.

CHAPTER VII

Author carried to hospital – Both his feet amputated – Account of the party left at Sannack – Employed in teaching native children English – Account of Kodiak – Natives – Dress – Canoes – Superstition – Food – Author sails in the ship Neva for the Sandwich Islands.

Upon our arrival at Alexandria I was immediately carried to the hospital. The surgeon, on examining my feet, found them in a state of mortification; he used poultices of rye, and other applications, for several days, in hopes of effecting a cure. On the second day he cut off one of my fingers; I lost a joint of another, but all the rest recovered.

Finding no favourable symptoms in my feet, he informed me I must submit to lose them in order to save my life. I had no idea that the case was so hopeless, and was not prepared for such an alternative. I requested three days to consider. At the end of that time I told him I had made up my mind, and would submit to the operations. Accordingly he amputated one of them on the fifteenth of March, and the other on the seventeenth of April following. Unfortunately for me he cut them off below the ankle joint, from a wish to take as little away as possible; the sores extended above the place, and have never completely healed. By the month of August I could creep about on my hands and knees.

My case excited great compassion, and a subscription was raised for me by Governor Baranoff and the officers of the ships that lay in the harbour, which amounted to one hundred and eighty rubles.

Whilst in the hospital, the brig arrived that had been despatched to Sannack for the goods saved from the wreck. With her came Mr. Bander, and also the mate and boatswain of the Eclipse, who had left Captain O’Cain in consequence of a difference that had taken place. They informed me that he had nearly completed the vessel, which was a brig of about seventy tons, and that he would find no difficulty in manning her with Russians and Indians. I afterwards heard from some Indians, who had come with despatches from Oonalaska, that the vessel was launched, and had sailed from Sannack. What became of her afterwards, I never could learn with certainty, but it was reported that she had foundered at sea, and all on board perished.

The mate, second mate, and boatswain, left Kodiak in a ship called the Neva, bound for Sitcha, an island near Norfolk Sound, where the Russians have lately established a settlement, from whence, I understand, they went to China in an American ship.

Mr. Baranoff, the governor, went to Sitcha at the same time, leaving Mr. Bander in charge of the colony.

When I had tolerably recovered my strength, I was employed by that gentleman in teaching eight Indian children the English language, in order that they might be qualified to act as interpreters to the American ships that frequently touch at these islands. My pupils were between the ages of eight and thirteen, and had all been taught the Russian language, of which, by this time, I understood a little.

I had to labour under great difficulties for want of books and grammars, and was obliged to form the letters of the alphabet in the best manner I was able. This was no easy task to me, both from want of practice, and the state of my right hand, which I could with difficulty open or shut. I however succeeded in teaching them to read the letters, but my farther progress was interrupted by my departure from the island. I have very little doubt of my ultimate success, had I remained, for the boys were uncommonly quick and apt to learn.

The island of Kodiak is the principal possession of the Russians on the northwest coast of America. It is above a hundred miles long, from northeast to southwest, and about fifty across at the wider part; but its breadth is very irregular, the shore being indented with deep bays and inlets.

The climate is by no means favourable; the snow lies on the ground till the end of April, and although the cold in winter is not very intense, the season is seldom free from fogs, snow, or rain. The summers are also very wet, and subject to frequent fogs.

Kodiak contains but a scanty population, the inhabitants are scattered through eight or ten villages upon the coast, and are employed in collecting furs for the Russian American Company. These villages, in general, consist of a few Indian families, who are under the charge of a Russian overseer.

No part of the island is cultivated, except a garden or two near the town, and a little barley at the village of Superscoff. It contains, however, a great deal of fine timber, chiefly larches, spruces, and other kinds of pine. Many of the trees are large enough to make spars of considerable dimensions.

Alexandria,15 the principal town on the island, and the residence of the governor, is situated on the eastern side of an extensive bay. It possesses an excellent harbour, being well sheltered by several small islands that lie to the southwest. The eastern entrance, which is the safest, is not above a mile wide, and is defended by a battery or small fort. There is also an entrance to the west; but it is narrow and intricate, and requires a leading wind to pass through.

The town consists of about fifty houses, built of logs, the seams of which are calked with moss, and the roofs thatched with grass; they are, in general, divided into three apartments below, and as many on the upper story. They are heated by stoves or ovens; when the wood is reduced to ashes, the vent is closed by means of a slide fitted for the purpose, and the heated air then diffusing itself through the room, renders it extremely comfortable. The windows, instead of being glazed, are covered with pieces of the gut of the seal, split up and sewed together; this, after being well oiled, is stretched on a frame, and defended from the wind by cross-bars on each side. Talc is also used for the same purpose. This substance is found in flakes about the size of the palm of the hand, and several of these are puttied together to form a pane.