Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico

When the twenty-four pictures were developed and prints came before the eyes of former doubters in town, Jim White was besieged by those who wanted to take the trip through the cave. Red Wheeler and Harry Stephens persuaded Jim to organize an excursion party for the tour, and so it was that another “original thirteen” came to be recorded in the centuries old history of Carlsbad Caverns. Wheeler and Stephens were two, photographer Davis made three. The others in the original party were Luther Perry, E. H. Weaver, Dan Lowenbrook, Homer Grabb, Coly Jones, J. R. Yates, J. B. Morris, John Nevenger, J. R. Owen and C. P. Pardue, all of Carlsbad. Superstition was relieved by the fourteenth member of the party—Jim White, now Guide!

In those days, it was an all-day trip across the thirty miles of prairie and mountain to the mouth of the cave. The party reached Jim’s shack late in the afternoon, ate the supper Mrs. White had waiting, then bunked early to rest for the all-day trek scheduled for daybreak. The first sightseers were lowered by two’s … Jim White at the winch … his passengers in the bucket used by the guano company to get down into the Bat Cave. Down they went into the black shaft which was the doorway to beauty.

It never occurred to Jim White that he should charge admission to the cave, and when the party started back to town he refused to set a price. The guests insisted on paying something, if only for the food, for Mrs. White’s trouble in feeding and housing them, and Jim’s own trouble both in the shack and in the caverns. The discussion ended with each guest paying a dollar. The thirteen dollars Jim used to buy more materials—to carry his trail even deeper into the cave.

A few days later on the streets of Carlsbad, Jim was greeted by one of his “original thirteen” sightseers. “Jim, that cave of yours is the greatest sight of its kind you or I or anyone else ever saw. You should charge everybody you take through it, five dollars! Man, it’s worth it!”

Meantime, the thirteen had passed along the word until it seemed that everyone was begging to be taken through the cave. Jim was at last obliged to fix a price of two dollars, since visitors to the then isolated spot had to be fed, and as the numbers increased, bunkhouses had to be built. As a moneymaker, Jim White’s Cave was not a success in those early days, since equipment and accommodations outran the income, even at two dollars per person for the guided tours. Then there were the days when Jim would greet some poor old farmer with a wife and bunch of kids. The family would want to take the trip through the Cavern, now beginning to achieve local fame, but who obviously could not afford that two-dollars-each admission price. Since it would seem unfair to admit them without charge while making others pay, Jim White would simply declare that day as “A Free Day”.

Jim White, the Guide, had the pleasure of taking the very poor and the very rich through the fairyland beneath the New Mexico desert. Jim White had fought for it so long he had become sentimental about the great Caverns.

In time people throughout the world learned of the fantastic beauty of the Caverns, and good roads became the pathways for awe-stricken thousands who arrived to gaze at what no man could explain completely—miraculous caverns that defy mankind’s vocabulary to describe.

By 1922 the scenic and scientific values of the caverns were of local and gradually expanding importance. Newspaper men and writers would always receive complimentary tours from Jim White, who realized that printed stories, in whatever publications, would have untold advertising value. The crowd read of the Caverns at Carlsbad—they heard of them from friends—and they gathered in increasing numbers to be lowered in the old guano-bucket. Jim White lifted nervous spinsters across narrow ledges, and pulled fat ladies up steep inclines. When his parties reached particularly dangerous spots, Jim’s body was always in a position to shield their eyes from the perils, so no one would become frightened, and make a misstep. In spite of the rickety and exciting descent in the old bucket, and the inadequacy of the trails, there was never an accident … never so much as a broken arm or leg. There were some hairbreadth escapes, with Jim White’s firm hand grasping someone by the seat of the pants to prevent a sudden plunge into a pit.

News of the wonderful cave out on the desert southwest of Carlsbad finally reached Washington and the authorities decided to check up on it. In April, 1923, the General Land Office in Washington sent Mr. Robert Holley, a mineral examiner to make a survey. Jim keenly felt Mr. Holley’s original scepticism when the newcomer said: “We didn’t feel as though this cave was of much importance, but the Department thought I’d better run down and measure it, so they could know if it is big enough for them to consider”. Jim grinned and said little. The next morning Jim White lowered Mr. Holley and his instruments into the cavern for the first time. It took the government man over a month to finish his very complete and accurate work and report. Scepticism turned to enthusiasm, as is witnessed by the opening paragraph of his survey-report in which Mr. Holley stated:

“I enter upon the task of compiling this report with a feeling of temerity, as I am wholly conscious of the feebleness of my efforts to convey in words the deep conflicting emotions, the feeling of fear and awe, and a desire for an inspired understanding of the Divine Creator’s work which presents to the human eye such a complex aggregate of natural wonders in such a space”. In concluding, Mr. Holley said: “… it appears that this cave is of such wonderful character as to be worthy to be established as a national monument....”.

THE GOVERNMENT TAKES OVER

Shortly after the favorable Holley survey was completed, Mr. Richard F. Burges, a prominent El Paso attorney, made a visit to the caverns and was taken through by Jim White. He, too, was greatly impressed with the scenic beauties and the majestic grandeur found here and he began strenuously to exert every effort to bring attention to the cave. He had caught Jim’s enthusiasm for the project and Mr. Burges’ considerable influence, both locally and nationally, soon had effect. He was instrumental in obtaining the 1923 studies of Dr. Willis T. Lee, government geologist. Dr. Lee returned the following year heading an exploration party whose finding, published in the National Geographic Magazine, brought the caverns world-wide attention. Of importance to the realization of Jim White’s dream was “Major” Burges’ work in acquainting members of Congress with the beauty and possibilities of the caverns.

Jim White was contacted by the Government for his suggestion as to how much land should be reserved for the purpose.

Jim White, in later discussing the Land Office request for information, would say, wryly, “There are several other large caves near Carlsbad Caverns, and my suggestion was to include all the land covering those caves. A lot of times I’ve wished that I’d held out one cave for myself.”

Resulting from the Holley report and Major Burges’ efforts, and culminating Jim White’s two-decade battle against indifference and unbelief, came the decision to make the cave area a National Monument. President Coolidge’s proclamation of October 25th, 1923, created the Carlsbad Cave National Monument.

Jim White’s application for the position of custodian of the new National Monument had the support of the Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce, and it was accepted. But Jim was informed there was no salary attached to that job; so then he filed his application for the job of Chief Ranger, which carried a salary. That position he promptly received.

One day shortly after he’d been made Chief Ranger, Jim White had a party in the cave. He pointed to the main entrance high above and said to a visitor:

“Lowering people in the old bucket down to the Bat Cave is too slow. Some of these days I’m going to build a stairway from where we are sitting, clear up through that main opening.”

Through the kindness, generosity and foresight of several Carlsbad citizens, Jim White’s stairway was built a few months later. More than a hundred thousand people used it during the next seven years, until the National Park Service completed the trail that slopes gently down the side of the wall … a means of entrance far better than the old stairway.

Dr. Vernon Bailey was sent to the caverns to do the biological survey on the bats. Seeing the strange mammals hanging aloft in sleep, Dr. Bailey observed that there couldn’t be more than a thousand in the whole cave. Jim White told him to stick around and watch them fly. Bailey did. In his book called “Animal Life of Carlsbad Cavern”, he used the numerical description “Three million” when he wrote of that first bat-flight which he watched.

In 1930, the caverns Jim White had explored were redesignated. On May 14th of that year an Act of Congress established the Carlsbad Caverns National Park, with a resident Superintendent in charge, assisted by a force of trained rangers, engineers and electricians.

THE CAVERNS BECOME A NATIONAL PARK

By 1927 Jim White had begun to see his fondest dreams materialize—those dreams about showing to the world what was to become Carlsbad Caverns National Park. People from literally all over the world were hearing of it, and were arriving in crowds.

Early that summer the Government appointed a resident custodian to administer the Monument. During the next two years tourist facilities, equipment and improvements moved so fast it was hard for Jim to keep up with the progress. Approximately three miles of trails were completed in compliance with modern engineering standards. Diesel engines and huge generators were installed, and the soft glow from hundreds of electric lights replaced Jim White’s crude, home-made kerosene torches. A lunch room was equipped in the depths of the cave—not far from the spot where the Kid set Jim afire one day long ago.

The United States Government charges a guide fee but have appropriated large sums for developing the caverns along progressive lines.

Jim White said it this way: “It’s like a pleasant end to a long dream. I like the modernizing, even letting the world see the cavern with all the conveniences and comforts you might find in a city hotel—electric lights—trails smooth as floors—food and steaming coffee when you’re hungry—running water and telephones clear back to the end—even modern elevators to carry you up if you get tired walking.

“In the spring of 1929 I could see that the job of Chief Ranger was getting too complicated for me, with my limited education; so I resigned my position.

“Even a cave millions of years old can go too modern, too efficient … and out-grow a common old cowboy”.

“… and He hath shewed His people the power of His works.”

Psalm 111