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First-time Gardener
If your garden is particularly hot and sunny due to its aspect, consider planting trees to create some light shade and shelter, or consider an arbour or pergola (see here). Remember, too, that even in the hottest, driest spot, there are sun-loving plants that will flourish (see here).
An open, sunny aspect is perfect for many perennials and shrubs.
Here are some favourite sun-loving plants in my garden: French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), globe thistle (Echinops sphaerocephalus ‘Niveus’) and the soft yellow Phlomis russeliana.
Small trees to provide light shade
Acer pseudoplatanus ‘Brilliantissimum’
Amelanchier lamarckii (snowy mespilus)
Betula utilis var. jacquemontii (Himalayan birch)
Cercidyphyllum japonicum (Katsura tree)
Crataegus laevigata ‘Paul’s Scarlet’ (May hawthorn)
Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ (honey locust)
Malus × robusta ‘Red Sentinel’ (crab apple)
Prunusx subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ (Higan cherry)
Rhus typhina (velvet sumach)
Sorbus cashmiriana
KIM’S TIPS
Use a compass to help you establish which direction your garden faces.
For gardens in the southern hemisphere, all directions are reversed. So a south- or west-facing garden is predominantly shady, while a north- or east-facing garden enjoys plenty of sun.
In a shady garden
A northerly or easterly aspect will almost certainly mean more shade, but this doesn’t mean it needs to be dark and dull. First, consider thinning out some of the trees and tall shrubs to let in more light, and plant golden-leaved plants to lighten the shade, such as the golden-leaved mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’) or the golden-leaved dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Aurea’). A plant with golden foliage will brighten any dark corner and many prefer to grow in part shade as full sun may scorch their leaves.
The shade cast by deciduous trees and shrubs will not come into full effect until the leaves appear. So if you underplant with spring-flowering bulbs, such as snowdrops (Galanthus), daffodils (Narcissus) and bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta), they will complete their flowering season before the tree canopy closes up. Low light levels in shady gardens can make things appear to be smaller, so be bold with everything from layout (use generous paving areas) and ornament (choose large containers) to planting. Several exotic-looking bold architectural plants, such as the castor-oil fig (Fatsia japonica) and the Chusan palm (Trachycarpus fortune!), tolerate a little shade.
In shady courtyards, brightly painted walls will substantially increase light levels, while strategically placed mirrors will reflect more light into the space as well as making it appear larger than it is. Water, too, will reflect light, adding sparkle to shady corners while offering sympathetic planting opportunities for fabulous foliage associations, such as shade-tolerant ferns, foxgloves and arum. The larger blue-leaved hostas are easy to grow in such situations and are slug resistant too.
Not all plants like full sun. Many ferns (above) are first and foremost woodland plants so, like foxgloves (Digitalis,) and hostas (right), they are happy when growing in partial shade.
Top bold shade-tolerant shrubs
Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel)
Camellia japonica (common camellia)
Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia)
Hydrangea quercifolia (oak-leaved hydrangea)
Mahonia × media ‘Charity’
Phormium tenax (New Zealand flax)
Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel)
Skimmia japonica
Trachycarpus fortunei (Chusan palm)
Viburnum davidii
Shelter
Shelter too is an important factor to take into account. Keeping out the wind increases the warmth of a garden significantly. Many plants can suffer from wind exposure (for example, they may have torn, tatty leaves), plus the soil dries out more quickly. Buildings, walls, fences and hedges all contribute to successfully reducing the exposure to wind. This, in turn, makes the garden a far more comfortable place for plants and people alike.
In windy situations, solid walls or fences may create turbulence on the sheltered side. To avoid this, use a slightly open fence, such as woven hazel, through which wind passes, but at a reduced speed. Hedges also allow for this filtering effect and can be a cheaper option than erecting fences or walls, while simultaneously providing colour and interest within the garden.
Formal hedges such as yew (Taxus baccata) may need clipping twice a year. Informal hedges such as laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) are generally left unclipped and are therefore more labour saving. Remember to plant evergreens – plants that do not shed their leaves – where privacy is of prime importance. Where security is an issue, plant tough, prickly hedges such as holly (llex × altaclerensis ‘Golden King’), Berberis darwinii, firethorn (Pyracantha ‘Mohave’) and hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), which all provide tough protection.
Top evergreen hedging shrubs
Berberis darwinii
Buxus sempervirens (common box)
Cotoneaster franchetii
Elaeagnus × ebbingei
Escallonia ‘Iveyi’
Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’
Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel)
Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese laurel)
Pyracantha ‘Mohave’ (firethorn)
Taxus baccata (yew)
Viburnum tinus (laurustinus)
Hedges can add to the style of the garden, as well as providing structure and shelter.
Climate and weather
It is important to gain a broad understanding of your local climate. This will allow you to use it to your best advantage. To be forewarned is to be forearmed. Sometimes the weather can be the gardener’s friend and sometimes it can be our foe.
If you gain a general understanding of your local climatic conditions in terms of its extremes, you can use this to influence the choice of plants in your garden. If you have cold and frosty winters, then it is no use expecting exotic plants to survive outside without protection. Alternatively, if you have long, hot summers, then there is not very much point in choosing plants that like to keep their roots wet.
Unfortunately, most of us only achieve a good understanding of our climate and its effect on our plants through trial and error. But a little bit of research and planning will increase your knowledge and save you valuable time, effort and money. There is a saying that, There is a plant for every condition.’ Bear this in mind when choosing plants, not only for their specific positions, but also in terms of your prevailing climatic conditions. Do this and your garden will thrive. The most important climatic conditions to consider are temperature, wind, rainfall and humidity.
Even in cool temperate weather, microclimates within gardens can enable frost-sensitive plants such as tree ferns and Geranium maderense to be grown.
Temperature
There are two main aspects to consider – air temperature and soil temperature. Both of these are vital factors in determining the successful growth of plants. Almost all plants purchased from garden centres are now informatively labelled. There should be a maximum and minimum temperature given, between which the particular plant will do well. In some nurseries, stock is not always so well labelled, so don’t be afraid to ask someone who works at the nursery if any plant you want to buy fits in to the maximum and minimum temperatures in your garden.
Frost is a hazard and can put plants at great risk. A frost occurs when the temperature falls below o°C (32°F) on clear, still nights. Local weather stations measure the temperature 1.5m (2yd) above ground level, so if the forecast in your area is for a temperature of 4°C (39°F), the temperature of your plants at ground level could be close to freezing.
Severe frosts can damage or put at peril even hardy plants, but in general terms it is important to know when the danger of spring frosts is likely to be over in your area. It is only after this date that you should plant out tender plants and summer vegetables. If a frost is forecast, it is advisable that you protect any plants that you know to be at risk from such a low temperature (see here).
You’ll often hear the term ‘frost pockets’ used by gardeners. Frost pockets are low-lying areas such as valleys and hollows where cold air (which is heavier than warm air) flows downhill, accumulates and causes frost. So if you live in a valley or hollow you should take extra care against frost.
Climate change: Almost all scientists now agree that the earth’s climate is changing. The effects of global warming are much debated and contentious, but there is widespread expert opinion agreeing that there will continue to be a general rise in temperature, with a resulting frequency of flooding and droughts, as well as other extreme weather conditions all over the world.
Global warming will deliver a mixed bag to us gardeners as milder winters will allow a greater number of tender species, such as citrus fruits, to be grown outdoors in temperate zones, as well as increased yields of many vegetables, fruit and flowers due to increasing levels of CO2, which plants absorb in photosynthesis. Problems will include an increase in pests and diseases as well as increased maintenance to cover the longer growing season, and certainly many species of plants will suffer or face extinction. As gardeners we are all in a position to make a positive difference to our environment simply by planting and caring for plants appropriate to our environment. Recycling organic matter, improving the soil and planting for wildlife are just a few of the ways we can start to redress the balance and help to heal a planet that is under stress.
Plants you can expect to see more of include olive (Olea europaea), ginger lilies (Hedychium), banana (Musa basjoo), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) and century plant (Agave americana).
At present, this Agave americana might not survive an average temperate winter. However, with milder winters due to climate change, such plants will become more commonly seen. In the right conditions, and over 30 years, these plants can grow up to 2m (6ft) high.
Wind
When it is severe or continuous, wind can cause much physical damage to plants. The best way to protect your garden from wind is to create windbreaks. These are simply plantings of trees or hedging that will reduce the speed of the wind by taking the brunt of the wind themselves, thus ‘breaking’ the wind. Natural windbreaks are generally more successful than man-made ones. So, if you have an area of garden that is particularly exposed to the wind, you should consider planting a screen of trees or shrubs that themselves are wind resistant. Ask advice from your local garden centre as to which plants these would be for your area.
Hedges are the perfect barrier for providing shelter from wind within a garden.
Rainfall
Rainfall is an essential aspect of climate that provides the water for your plants to grow. In areas of low rainfall, irrigation schemes can be very effective, but even they still depend on rain falling at some time. Most of our gardens still receive the water that they need through regular rainfall. Unfortunately, rain does not fall at predictable intervals and in consistent quantities, so your plants need to be able to cope with this variability in rainfall. This can sometimes present two main problems:
Waterlogging of the soil, occurs with consistent heavy rain where drainage is poor.
Drought conditions, where rain is sparse over long periods and the soil has dried up and the ground has gone hard.
In both cases, action can be taken to improve matters. Drainage of waterlogged soil can be improved by the addition of coarse grit. Cultivation of the soil will further improve matters (see here). If the problem is persistent, a more complex solution has to be found, such as installing underground drains. This is an area where professional help should be sought.
In dry soil conditions, the addition of organic matter will assist water retention, but generally a regular watering regime has to be undertaken to ensure that the soil is kept moist. If you have free-draining soil and persistently dry conditions, then you should choose plants that suit the conditions. Grasses and many plants from the Mediterranean region are suitable for dry conditions. There is always an answer for whatever the situation.
Plants for wet positions
Betula nigra (river birch)
Caltha palustris (giant marsh marigold)
Gunnera manicata
Ligularia ‘Gregynog Gold’
Lysichiton americanus (yellow skunk cabbage)
Matteuccia struthiopteris (ostrich fern)
Persicaria amplexicaulis (bistort)
Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’ (Chinese rhubarb)
Rodgersia aesculifolia
Trollius europaeus (common European globeflower)
Humidity
Humidity is the amount of water vapour in the atmosphere. It is also affected by the moisture content of the soil. At one extreme, high humidity can encourage the growth of mould and fungal diseases, while a low humidity can increase the rate at which plants dry out and wilt. Low humidity can be improved in a garden by introducing water features and soaking all hard areas and soil, occasionally hosing down with water. Gardeners often refer to this as ‘damping down’. The opposite extreme to low humidity occurs mainly in rainforests, where plants adapt to these very particular conditions. Careful selection of moisture-loving plants is therefore important.
It is unlikely that you will have a perfect balance of all of these elements of climate in your garden, but a basic understanding of your local conditions will help enormously. Knowing that you can take some steps to work with the climate and not against it will help to improve your gardening results.
Euphorbia myrsinites naturally grows in exposed rocky places, and so is ideal for planting in a drystone wall.
Astilbes are moisture-loving plants and are best grown in partial shade.
Soil
Getting to grips with the stuff that you grow things in can save you a lot of wasted time and money. A plant adapted for boggy conditions will thrive in a heavy, clay soil with poor drainage. Planted in a well-drained, sandy soil, lavender will thrive just as it does in its native Mediterranean soil. Of course, you can contrive soil conditions by planting in containers or raised beds, but as it’s usually not possible to change your type of soil, it is essential that you understand what you have.
You don’t need a degree in chemistry to gain an understanding of the many different types of soil. Although you could spend many years learning about and specializing in soil types, the structure of the soil, the balance of nutrients in the soil and the constituent make-up of the soil, it just isn’t necessary when you start out in your gardening endeavours. Instead, a simple appreciation of soil types and their respective strengths and weaknesses will do to get you started.
What is soil?
Soil is the growing medium for your plants. From soil, your plants will draw their water and their nutrients. The soil provides a base in which the plant is physically supported too. The fact that soil can do all of this shows you just what an amazing natural material it is.
Some people are lucky enough to have a good soil for gardening that needs little in the way of support and improvement. Others are less fortunate and have a soil that needs to be enhanced by improving the structure of the soil by adding organic material, such as manure, and improving the nutritional value of the soil through the addition of fertilizers (see here). The types of soil that you may encounter are shown opposite.
Rhododendrons and azaleas both grow best in a soil that has a low pH value, which is usually referred to as ‘acid soil’.
Soil types at a glance
CLAY SOIL
Soil structure
Topsoil: This is the soil on the surface of your garden. It is the soil level that contains almost all of the organic matter that has been dug in to the soil or applied as a top dressing to the soil in autumn.
The topsoil is the most supportive and nutritious of the soil levels for your plants. It is from the topsoil that the plants will draw most of their moisture and nutrients. The depth of top soil will vary greatly from place to place. You are very lucky if you have two spade depths or more of top soil in your garden.
It is in the topsoil that almost all of the organisms and insects that live in the soil will be found. Many of these are beneficial to the soil. One of the gardener’s best friends is the earthworm, which plays such an important part in the incorporation of organic material into the soil. Through all its wriggling around, it is a tireless worker in aerating the soil, improving the drainage and providing ideal conditions for encouraging root growth in plants.
Some new gardens have little or no topsoil at all, and if this is the case it will need importing into the garden. Topsoil is not cheap, but be aware that if you find yourself in this situation, it is crucial you don’t stint on importing it. Any penny-pinching at this stage will come back to haunt you in the years to come! Existing topsoil can also be increased with the addition of generous quantities of organic matter (see here).
Stephen Dalton/NHPA
Worms have been conditioning our planet’s soil for millions of years by recycling organic matter.
Subsoil: This is the level below the topsoil and it usually differs in colour from the topsoil. It is often lighter in colour. One reason for this is that none, or very little, of the applied organic material reaches down to this level. The subsoil will still contain nutrients from which your plants will benefit, but it will not be anywhere near as fertile as the topsoil.
